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Hi Maria and Blue, Welcome to the forums! Your farm sounds lovely and it's great that you are starting to train your Shepador at such a young age. When a dog chases ducks, we often assume the dog simply doesn’t like them, but in reality, the drive to chase them is the ultimate result of a dog’s ancestral instinct to perform the predatory sequence. What is a predatory sequence? A predatory sequence consists of a series of behaviors that predators carry out in order to hunt and capture their prey. The sequence is therefore a set of behaviors that lead one to another, starting with the mere detection of prey animals and culminating in consumption. In simple words, it consists of behaviors that lead to “food acquisition.” Predatory sequences will vary from one species and another. For example, a lion will stalk its prey, then ambush it, deliver a fatal bite and then will proceed to eat it. A spider on the other hand, will spin a web, then inject the prey with venom, and then will proceed to eat. In modern humans, it’s going to the grocery store, paying, cooking a meal and eating. What is the predatory sequence in dogs? This is often described as a chain of motor patterns composed of the following sequence: orient → eye → stalk → chase → grab-bite → kill-bite → dissect → consume. Domestic dogs rarely perform the entire sequence, and selective breeding has exaggerated or suppressed different components based on different factors such as breed. A Border Collie may therefore stare and stalk a duck intensely but have relatively inhibited grabbing, while a retriever may be strongly motivated to pursue and carry, but without necessarily wanting to kill. What triggers a dog to perform a predatory sequence in the first place? The big neurological trigger is movement. Fast, erratic movements are extremely salient to a dog’s visual system. When a duck suddenly waddles, flaps, or takes off, it can therefore activate an orienting response and rapidly increase arousal. It’s as if the dog’s brain is essentially saying, “Something just moved! Track it!” Just the chase itself along with the dopamine release can become a rewarding experience. There is also a neat sensory component: contrast and motion detection. Dogs don’t see the world in quite the same visual way humans do, and their visual system is particularly good at detecting movement. A stationary duck may therefore be noticed without eliciting much response, but compare that to a duck suddenly sprinting across the pond and you get the idea. The rapid movement of ducks, rising arousal, and anticipation of what happens next engage a dog's dopamine and motivation systems. In this sense, the pursuit can become its own reward, allowing the dog to learn that chasing is exciting even when the duck consistently gets away. Chasing can therefore be intrinsically rewarding. The dog doesn’t necessarily need to catch the duck for the chase to be exciting or for the behavior to become more likely to occur again. The duck moves? The dog chases causing adrenaline and arousal to rise. The duck flees? The pursuit remains exciting and reinforcing. Predatory chasing can also be strongly motivated by innate motor patterns and species-typical predatory behavior. And because the dog gets repeated opportunities to rehearse the sequence, chasing can become increasingly automatic and difficult to interrupt, making it more likely to repeat. In a nutshell, the more a dog practices the behavior, the more he will want to engage in it because the dog is repeatedly practicing a highly arousing, intrinsically reinforcing sequence. So now that we know why dogs find chasing ducks so rewarding, it’s time to dedicate a whole section on how to train a dog to no longer pursue this behavior. But firstly, I find it important to point out something important: it is a bit unrealistic to expect dogs to simply stop wanting to chase ducks, or any other type of furry critter for the matter. Sure, you can teach a dog to control the behavior, but you generally cannot expect training to completely erase an innate or strongly reinforced motivation. There is also a major difference between wanting to chase and choosing to chase. A well-trained dog may notice a duck, experience the urge to pursue it, and nevertheless turn back toward the handler. The absence of a chase does not necessarily mean the dog has lost the desire to chase; it can simply mean that the dog has learned an alternative response and has attained sufficient impulse control to perform it despite the motivation. Furthermore, your puppy is only 9 weeks so we need to keep in mind that pups at this age the goal is not really “stop duck chasing.” It is to prevent the puppy from developing a strong chase habit while teaching attention, disengagement, recall, and calm observation. I would also avoid deliberately bringing a 9-week-old puppy closer and closer to ducks. At this age, sessions should be extremely short, the environment should be carefully controlled, and management should do most of the work. The puppy should have many successful experiences of seeing interesting things without automatically pursuing them. When you're working with a 9-week-old puppy, the goal isn't to teach the puppy that ducks aren't interesting or somehow eliminate the natural urge to chase moving objects. At this age, we're laying the behavioral foundation that will help the puppy make better choices later. Think of it as building good habits before the chase becomes a habit. With all of this in mind, here are some tips: 1. Prevent the Puppy From Practicing the Chase At 9 weeks old, management is your best friend. Every time a puppy sees a duck, takes off after it, and gets to experience the thrill of the pursuit, the puppy gets another opportunity to rehearse that behavior. Use appropriate management such as: A regular leash when appropriate A secure puppy-safe area Secure fencing A suitable long line when the puppy is old enough and the environment is appropriate Carrying the puppy in situations where a chase could occur At 9 weeks, I would prioritize preventing the puppy from getting into a chase in the first place rather than testing whether the puppy can resist one. 2. Don't Wait Until the Puppy Is Chasing This is one of the most important principles. Once a puppy is already sprinting after a duck, you're no longer teaching a calm learning exercise, but rather you are trying to interrupt an emotionally arousing behavior that is already happening. Instead, look for the moment when the puppy first notices the duck. You want: “What's that?” rather than:“ DUCK! MUST CHASE!” At 9 weeks, your puppy's attention span is extremely limited. You cannot expect an infant puppy to stare at a duck and then calmly perform a complicated obedience routine. Your job at this stage and age is to notice those tiny moments of attention and teach the puppy what to do next. 3. Build Attention and Check-In Behaviors Away From Ducks Before you use ducks as a training distraction, teach the puppy that checking in with you is worthwhile. Start inside the house in a quiet environment. You can practice with Blue desirable behaviors such as: Responding to his name Looking toward you Coming when called over very short distances Hand targeting Turning and following you Offering eye contact Keep sessions extremely short and fun. For example practive 5 minute sessions of “Bluuuuue!” → puppy looks toward you → “Yes!” → treat. Repeat until the puppy begins automatically checking in when you say their name. Then practice in progressively more interesting environments. 4. Teach the Puppy That Seeing a Duck Is No Big Deal You don't want your puppy to learn that ducks are forbidden, frightening, or something that produces a battle with the handler. Instead, if your puppy notices a duck at a safe distance mark the calm behavior and give a reward. This is where counterconditioning (https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/)and differential reinforcement (https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/differential-reinforcement-incompatible-behaviors/) can become useful. You're helping establish a positive association with the presence of ducks while selectively reinforcing behaviors that are incompatible with launching into a chase. 5. Reward Disengagement One of the most valuable behaviors you can teach is disengagement. Suppose your puppy sees a duck.The puppy looks.Then, for just a moment, the puppy looks back at you. That tiny moment is gold so you want to mark it. Duck → puppy looks → puppy disengages → “Yes!” → reward. You're basically teaching Blue something along the lines of: “I can notice something exciting without having to chase it.” Don't expect a perfect automatic response from a 9-week-old puppy. At first, you may need to help by moving away, calling the puppy's name, or using a hand target. As the puppy matures and gains experience, you can gradually expect more independent disengagement. 6. Use Rewards That Matter to the Puppy At this age, food is often an exceptionally useful reinforcer because puppies are still learning that interacting with their human can be rewarding. You don't necessarily need exotic treats. Tiny pieces of something the puppy finds highly motivating can work extremely well. The important point is that the reward must actually compete with what the puppy is interested in. 7. Keep the Distance Large Enough for the Puppy to Succeed With a 9-week-old puppy, I would not start by deliberately walking toward ducks to see how close you can get. Instead, use whatever distance naturally exists. If the puppy sees a duck across a pond and calmly watches it, that helps. If the puppy immediately pulls, lunges, barks, or tries to run toward it, you're too close for that particular training exercise. There is no magic distance such as 10, 20, or 30 meters. The appropriate distance depends on the individual puppy, the environment, the movement of the ducks, and the puppy's current arousal level. Think: Can Blue notice the duck and still eat, respond to me, and move away with me? If yes, you're probably working at a productive level. If no, increase the distance or leave the situation. 8. Don't Make Moving Ducks the First Big Challenge A stationary duck and a flying duck are very different training stimuli. A puppy may calmly observe a duck sitting on the water and then immediately try to pursue it when it suddenly waddles, flaps, or takes flight. Movement is an especially powerful trigger for many dogs. So don't deliberately create a difficult scenario simply to “test” the puppy. Let the puppy gradually encounter different levels of movement while maintaining enough distance for the puppy to remain responsive. You might eventually progress from: stationary duck → walking duck → moving duck → several moving ducks → duck taking flight...But these are later steps, not a checklist that a 9-week-old puppy needs to complete. 9. Teach a Fun “This Way!” Response Rather than relying on repeated commands such as “Come! Come! COME!” when the puppy is already distracted, teach a cheerful movement cue. For example: “This way!” → turn around → puppy follows → reward. Practice it around the house. Then the yard. Then other low-distraction environments. Eventually, the cue can become useful when something interesting appears. The important part is that the puppy has a long history of practicing the behavior before you expect it to work around ducks. 10. Be Especially Careful When the Puppy and Duck Both Start Moving This is where the situation can escalate very quickly:Puppy moves → duck moves → puppy accelerates → duck accelerates → puppy accelerates again. You don't want to turn this into a game of puppy-versus-duck. If a duck suddenly begins moving away, increase distance and calmly move your puppy with you rather than waiting to see whether the puppy can resist the temptation. At 9 weeks, management should be priority. You are trying to prevent the puppy from learning: “When ducks run, I get to run too!” 11. Don't Punish the Puppy for Being Interested in Ducks Looking at a duck is not bad behavior. Neither is being excited by movement. Those are normal puppy responses. Rather, the behavior you want to influence is what happens after the puppy notices the duck. Instead of yelling "“NO! Leave it! Don't look!” think in terms of: “You noticed the duck. Good. Now let's check in with me.” 12: Remember your puppy is an infant. This may be the most important point of all. A 9-week-old puppy does not have the impulse control of an adult dog. The puppy is exploring the environment, learning how movement works, developing motor skills, and discovering which behaviors produce interesting consequences. You should therefore expect: short attention spans, imperfect responses, sudden bursts of excitement, and occasional lapses in judgment. 13. Management Will Still Be Necessary Even with excellent early training, I would not expect a puppy to become reliably trustworthy around ducks simply because you've practiced these exercises. As the puppy grows, predatory interest may change. Adolescence can also bring changes in arousal, independence, and environmental motivation. Therefore, continue using appropriate physical management around ducks until you have substantial evidence that the dog can safely respond in those environments. I hope this helps! Happy training! Best, Adrienne

Hi everyone, thanks for letting me join! I live on a rural property and was wondering if there are some specific tips that I can utilize to get my Shepador (9 weeks) get used to ducks and learn not to chase them. At the moment his Shephard herding is very confused with this Labrador retrieving desire lol. Right now i try to expose him to the ducks as much as possible and teach stay, leave, etc but the moment he gets to run he chases them. I have a flock of 17 domesticated ducks that I need to teach him to coexist along side. Any info would be much appreciated. Thanks, Maria and Blue

Hi Harry, welcome to the forums. I can understand how frustrating this can feel ,especially when you have invested in dog treats hoping they would help, only to discover that their incentive value is not enough. It almost feels like “It’s as if my dog knows what I want but is choosing not to listen.” However, this type of dog behavior is rarely driven by a desire to be defiant. The truth is far more factual and less emotionally driven. In a nutshell, your dog is simply responding to whatever is most salient and reinforcing in that particular, given moment. In this case, the odor has become the highest-priority stimulus competing for the dog’s attention and behavior. Because every scent has the potential to reveal fascinating information, asking your dog to abandon a scent trail isn’t much different than asking someone to put down an exciting mystery novel just before the final chapter. In this case it comes natural to think, if my dog clearly hears us calling her and we have rewarded her with treats, why does she keep on sniffing? Is this a case of selective hearing? The answer often lies in the strength of the recall cue under strong distractions. A recall cue is not truly under stimulus control until the dog reliably responds across a variety of environments and levels of distraction. Stimulus control means that a specific cue (e.g., “Come”) consistently elicits the desired behavior because the dog has learned that responding to that cue is highly reinforcing. In the context of a recall, stimulus control exists only when the dog reliably comes after a single cue across a variety of environments, including those with competing distractions such as enticing scents. Dogs who learn to come when called promptly when in the house but struggle when they’re in the yard and interested in smells simply have not generalized that response to environments filled with highly rewarding scents, wildlife, or other competing stimuli. In these cases, yes, sniffing may be more reinforcing than the food reward being offered by the pet parent. Basically, the environmental reinforcement outweighs the reinforcement history for the recall. Let's continue to think of sniffing from our dog's perspective. Every time your dog sniff, it’s like opening another surprise package. While some sniffs may contain nothing remarkable, every now and then there’s this irresistible jackpot, under the form of a rabbit trail, the scent of another dog, or yesterday’s dropped hamburger. This unpredictable payoff is what makes sniffing incredibly difficult to interrupt. However, being aware of this variable reinforcement is powerful as it can help you formulate a strategic plan that will keep your dog on his toes when you call him too! So How to Get Your Dog’s Attention When His Nose Is Glued to the Ground? Every time you call your dog, you need to make sure that he rushes to you enthusiastically and the that reward given beats anything else. If coming when called consistently means the fun ends in exchange for a cookie or a treat he gets often every day, your recall cue can quickly lose its appeal. Here are some strategies to prevent that from happening. -Don’t Make the Fun End Imagine your spouse says: “Come here,” and every single time that means “It’s time to toss the trash” or “time to clean the garage.” With time, you’d become remarkably difficult to find! Now imagine that sometimes “Come here” means here’s your favorite dessert, let’s watch a favorite movie, or here’s a surprise gift, and occasionally, yes, we need to clean the garage. In this case, you’d respond much more enthusiastically because the cue has a long history of predicting good things. Now, if treats are given every time the dog is called when she’s sniffing, and the dog’s recall remains poor over time, this reminds us that reinforcement is something relative, not absolute. In other words, in that context, the scent has greater value in than the treat. -Increase Reliability Around Scent Distractions Calling a dog when he’s actively sniffing and getting a quick response isn’t something that is trained overnight. Here’s the thing: a reliable recall isn’t built by repeatedly testing the dog in challenging situations, but rather through systematic proofing. I like to think of scent distractions in terms of weights at the gym. You don’t start with the heaviest barbell during the first weeks! So here are some general tips to work on incrementally. If your dog fails repeatedly, don’t assume he’s being stubborn. It usually means the distraction level exceeds his current skill level. You may therefore need to go back to practicing under milder distractions and using higher value treats. -Begin indoors with virtually no distractions. -Practice in the backyard before your dog discovers an interesting scent. -Move to a quiet park. -Practice near mildly interesting odors. -Gradually work closer to stronger scent trails. -Finally, practice around the kinds of distractions your dog is most likely to encounter in real life. Use Premack to Your Advantage One of the most powerful reinforcers may already be right under your nose (pun intended). On a personal note, I love to use this principle, here's more about it: Premack Principle! According to the Premack Principle, a highly desirable behavior can reinforce a less desirable one. This is also known as Grandma’s Law, in terms of “eat your broccoli and then you can have ice cream. For a dog who loves to sniff, the opportunity to return to sniffing after coming when called can be an even better reward than food. Here’s an example on how to use it to your advantage: Call your dog. He comes immediately. Reward with a treat. Cheerfully say, “Go sniff!” as you point to the yard Let him return to investigating the scent. In this case, the message goes from “all the fun ends when my pet parent calls me” to “Coming when called doesn’t make the good stuff disappear, rather, it makes it happen.” How magical is that? After several reps of this, once the dog’s need for sniffing has satiated (let the dog sniff to his heart’s content until all the novelty wears off and he appears bored) it may be time to call your dog to come indoors. In this case, you will have to think “what does my dog love to do indoors?” If your dog loves to sniff, it may be worthy preparing a Snuffle mat loaded with several high-value treats and having that ready by the entrance. Or if your dog is hungry and he loves his food, present his food bowl. Think of Your Dog’s Recall as a Lifetime Investment Reliable recalls aren’t built in a weekend. Rather they’re developed through consistent practice and maintained throughout a dog’s lifetime. Even highly trained dogs with excellent recalls benefit from occasional “tune-ups” and surprise rewards to keep the behavior strong. And while a well-trained dog may come when called with impressive reliability, no recall is ever 100 percent guaranteed .No dog training is really guaranteed for that matter. I hope this helps, Please let me know if you have another questions! Keep us posted. Best, Adrienne

My 3 yo yellow lab puts her nose to the ground when w let her outside and she just wont pay attention when called- shes found a scent and doesnt want to come indoors. we treat her when she comes, but dosnt seem to be an incentive enough

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! Before beginning brain games, I would encourage you to think of your dog's nose as the primary way he gathers information about the world. Rather than adapting scent games to fit a visually or hearing-impaired dog, try to view scent-based activities as his natural learning modality. For dogs with partial vision and hearing loss, consistency becomes especially important. Try to conduct training sessions in familiar environments with minimal clutter and few unexpected obstacles. Predictability helps reduce cognitive load and allows the dog to focus on the task itself. Since you've noticed he responds better to lower-frequency sounds, you may find that deeper vocal tones, gentle tapping on the floor to create vibrations, or consistent auditory cues are more effective than higher-pitched sounds. For brain games, I would start with simple scent searches. Scatter a few treats in a small area and allow him to use his nose to locate them. As he gains confidence, you can progress to hiding food in boxes, snuffle mats, rolled towels, or scent trails leading to a reward. Success should come easily at first to build confidence. You may also find tactile cues helpful. Many sensory-impaired dogs learn to respond to gentle touch signals as long as you associate them with something good happening (like touch, followed by a treat) so as to not trigger startling. Most importantly, allow him to work at his own pace. Dogs with sensory impairments often spend more time gathering information from their environment. What may appear to be slow progress is frequently the dog processing information through a different sensory pathway. As humans, we often focus on deficits, but many sensory-impaired dogs become remarkably skilled problem-solvers because they learn to rely so heavily on their remaining senses. A dog whose nose is 'his eyes on the world' is often an excellent candidate for scent-based enrichment and cognitive games. One additional tip: avoid startling him. Approach from a consistent direction when possible, announce your presence through gentle floor vibrations or a familiar low voice, and pair interactions with positive outcomes. Confidence and predictability are often just as important as the games themselves.

How do I modify the techniques for a sight challenged and hearing challenged dog? His hearing is better with lower sounds. He has a hard time recognizing the source of the sound. Sight is partial in one eye. His nose is his eyes on the world. Hay help or advice before we begin with brain games would be most appreciated n

Hi there, welcome to the forums Management in these cases comes first. Tommy should have protected zones where Gus cannot physically reach him, gated areas or rooms separated by baby gates. Blind dogs especially benefit from predictable, protected pathways through the home so they are not surprised by sudden physical contact. Second, teach Gus a default behavior around Tommy. Many households succeed with a “go to mat” or “settle” cue. When Gus notices Tommy moving or hears him nearby, you cue Gus to go to his mat and reinforce calm behavior there. Over time, Tommy’s presence becomes a signal for relaxation rather than play attempts. Third, proactively drain Gus’s social and physical energy before he interacts with Tommy. Structured walks, scent games, food puzzles, and short training sessions lower baseline arousal. A dog that has already spent mental and physical energy is far less likely to bounce toward the older dog. Fourth, interrupt play attempts early and calmly. The moment Gus begins orienting toward Tommy in a playful but intrusive way, stiffening, bouncing, pawing—redirect him before Tommy has to escalate. Quiet redirection paired with reinforcement for disengagement teaches Gus that leaving Tommy alone is the successful strategy. It is also worth noting that some bully-type dogs, tend to show strong “play persistence.” They keep trying because historically persistence has worked with other dogs. That trait is not malicious; it simply means the human has to set clearer boundaries about when play is and is not available. Your daughter’s dog being careful around Tommy is a useful observation. Some dogs naturally show what behaviorists call self handicapping, where the larger dog reduces intensity with a smaller or older partner. Gus may eventually learn some version of that, but relying on spontaneous restraint is risky given Tommy’s health. Finally, try to remove yelling from the interaction loop if possible. When you raise your voice, Gus likely experiences the sequence as: approach Tommy → exciting chaos → owner upset. Calm redirection paired with reinforcement tends to produce clearer learning and less emotional fallout. In many homes the system becomes fairly peaceful once the younger dog learns a simple rule: the old dog is not a play partner. He is simply part of the environment. Over time, younger dogs often shift from solicitation to quiet coexistence, which is exactly the retirement plan a 14-year-old dog deserves. I hope this helps, happy training! Best, Adrienne

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! A nine-month-old, 50-lb adolescent dog and a ten-week-old, 6-lb puppy are operating on very different physical and neurological settings. The older dog is in the canine equivalent of the teenage phase, that is high arousal, strong play drive, and still learning impulse control, whereas, the younger puppy is developmentally fragile and lacks the coordination to protect herself. The concern you’re raising is therefore legitimate; injuries between puppies in this kind of size mismatch are entirely possible, but usually occur accidentally rather than through aggression. The first principle is management, not training. The older puppy should not have free access to the smaller one during the first weeks. Use barriers such as baby gates, exercise pens, or crates so the dogs can see and smell each other without physical contact. This prevents the older dog from rehearsing overwhelming play while the small puppy is still settling in. Controlled introductions should be brief and structured. Keep the larger dog on leash initially and allow the puppies to interact for only a few seconds at a time before calling the older dog away and reinforcing calm behavior. The goal is to teach that disengaging from the puppy earns reinforcement. Many young dogs can play appropriately, but they need frequent interruptions because their arousal escalates quickly. Teach the older puppy a few specific impulse-control skills before the new puppy arrives. A reliable “go to mat,” “leave it,” and a recall away from play are extremely useful here. When the small puppy moves around the room, reinforce the older dog for choosing calm behaviors such as lying down, sitting, or observing quietly. This builds a habit of settling rather than charging toward movement. Supervise all play sessions closely. Healthy puppy play includes loose bodies, frequent pauses, role reversals, and self-handicapping from the larger dog (for example lying down or reducing intensity). If the larger dog begins to chase, body-slam, pin, or ignore the smaller puppy’s attempts to disengage, calmly separate them and allow both dogs to reset. Do not rely on the older small dog or the cats to regulate the adolescent dog’s behavior. While some adult animals will correct a youngster, it is not fair or safe to expect them to manage interactions with a vulnerable puppy. Human supervision should be the primary control system. Finally, remember that fatigue and excitement both increase the risk of rough play. Short training sessions, sniffing activities, food puzzles, and walks for the older puppy will lower baseline arousal and make gentle interactions more likely. With careful management and reinforcement of calm behavior, most adolescent dogs learn surprisingly quickly that the tiny newcomer is not a wrestling partner but a fragile member of the social group. The important piece is preventing the older dog from practicing overly rough play during those early weeks while the small puppy is still physically delicate. I hope this helps! Happy training!

Hi there, welcome to the forums! Six-month-old Miniature Schnauzer puppies are social followers. Add excitement and poor spatial awareness and you get a mobile trip hazard. Of course, this can be particularly concerning, especially when around an elderly lady. What's going on in this puppy's mind? Let's take a look at some possible mechanics before digging deeper into solutions. -Mobile Reinforcement Movement is one of the strongest triggers for puppies. A standing person is boring; a moving person is a stimulus. -Attention-Seeking Puppies enjoy any form of attention. In the case of a puppy following around and becoming a tripping hazard, it's inevitable looking at them, telling them to move or even bumping in them. These can be all perceived as forms of attention. -Lack of Training As you correctly mentioned, lack of previous training may play a role. The puppy simply does not yet know where to go when the person stands up. The solution may involve several approaches. -Teach a default stationing behavior Train the puppy to go to a mat or bed whenever the person stands up. Start by heavily reinforcing the puppy for relaxing on a designated mat. Then add a predictable cue: person stands → puppy runs to mat → reward appears. Over time the stand-up itself becomes the cue. This converts the trigger from “follow legs” to “go park yourself.” -Build spatial awareness around legs Practice slow walking drills where the puppy is rewarded for maintaining a small buffer zone around the person. Some trainers use a treat magnet at knee height to guide the dog into position beside the leg rather than between the feet. Think of it as teaching “walk with” rather than “walk under.” Another option is keeping a treat at eye level so the pup can focus on making eye contact in what's known as attention heeling. Bother forms of heeling can be found here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/heeling-attention-heeling/ Another option is tossing kibble or treats at a distance so that the puppy steers clear from her. A sit prior to tossing a treat can add some structure to the game. Baby gates can create safe walking lanes for the elderly owner while training is in progress. -Increase structured enrichment Six-month-old mini schnauzers often shadow people because they are under-stimulated. Short training games, sniffing work, scatter feeding, and food puzzles reduce the “follow the human entertainment channel” effect. I hope this helps, happy training!

I have a 50 pound 9 m old puppy and will be getting a 6 pound 10 week old puppy in couple of weeks and am concerned about larger dog playing to rough or sitting, laying on her. How do I train larger pup to be easy with her. I have another older small dog that keeps him in line and 2 cats that let him rough house with them and they keep initiating the play but don’t want new smallest puppy to get run over.

Thanks for your reply. My place is so small, it would be difficult to install a pet barrier but I’ll give it some thought. Little Tommy spends most of his time on a futon chair that Gus is not allowed on without permission so T does have a refuge. The advantage of such a small place is that the dogs are almost always within sight and voice command, so Gus can be called to Come and Stay when Tommy feels threatened. Thanks again. Isn’t it wonderful to be part of a community that cares so much about dogs?

My husband modified that pet barrier for me

Initially when they interacted, I stood behind the larger dog, she had a harness with. a handle and sort of straddled her gently and gently intervened if she got too rough with encouraging her to “be gentle” . Over the years she has learned to handicap her play and to just leave the older dogs alone. Having a knowledge of canine body language is essential so you can pick up on your older dog Tommy’s early stress signals so you can give him the space he needs. Hope they answer the questions soon for you. I used to foster care and I do look after dogs and I teach a dog beginner class but I am not a behavioral trainer. I am here to learn what I can too. Hope this helps somewhat

I noticed no one has answered your plea for help. I have a large Border collie cross rescue and a Maltese terrier and one thing I found helpful was to make a couple of small dog areas for my Maltese terrier so he can retreat to a safe area whenever he wants to. So an opening in a barrier that he can fit through but the larger dog cannot. I’ll try to add a photo

Just some training ideas required for a six month old mini snauzer that has no previous training is walking into an elderly lady’s legs as she walks around the house. I’ve started with a relaxation protocol to teach the dog to self settle because the moment she gets up the puppy gets up to and walks into her legs also in between her feet etc. almost tripping her up as she’s walking. A trainer suggested shuffle walking and marking and rewarding when the dog is not doing it so essentially blocking the puppy but eventually gradually opening up to a normal gait. Any ideas appreciated. I’ll try to video it tomorrow

Tommy, a 20lb Jack Russell mix, has been with me for 14 years. We were a therapy team until I retired us and he was surely looking forward to a peaceful old age despite a heart condition, diabetes, blindness, and arthritis. Then Gus became part of our household 10 months ago. Gus is a 2yr old Bully. We’ve got to do something about the breed name; it’s so, so wrong. Gus is a 60lb teddy bear. He’s sweet-natured, extremely intelligent, and eager to please. He’s also big and strong and bouncy. He wants desperately to play with poor Tommy but he’s too rough. Tommy, never shy about speaking out, gets angry, barking and snapping, and I worry about his weak heart. Then I’m upset and yell at Gus. He’s crushed and I feel even worse. Nobody wins. How do I teach Gus to be gentle? Thanks in advance for your help, Paula B P.S. When I chose to adopt Gus, I realized that life would become difficult for Tommy. But Gus’s options were dismal. Libby, my daughter’s 3yr old Staffie/Pit mix, stays here 2-3 afternoons a week and, while having some behavioral problems of her own, is inordinately careful of little Tommy. PB

Hello, Thank you for describing the situation in such detail. What you’re seeing is concerning, especially given your puppy’s young age,so it’s good that you’re seeking guidance now. A 6.5-month-old puppy showing escalating anxiety, generalized resource guarding, stiffness, hard staring, lunging, and attempted bites suggests a combination of fear-based aggression and impaired emotional regulation. The fact that the behavior intensifies consistently in the evening and overnight is also clinically relevant. A few important points and recommendations: Safety and management come first Until this is properly evaluated, avoid situations where people are approaching him around food, resting places, or valued items. Do not attempt to “test” or challenge him. Management tools (leash indoors, gates, predictable routines, controlled access to resources) are essential to prevent rehearsal of aggressive behavior. Do not rely on firmness or confrontation While he may back off when you are firm, this is not a sign that the behavior is resolved. More often, it indicates suppression driven by fear. Over time, this approach increases the risk of bites that occur without warning. Avoid verbal or physical intimidation. Resource guarding at this age is suspicious Guarding that is broad (food, bed, objects, space) and paired with anxiety and unprovoked lunging is outside typical puppy development warrants a veterinary behavioral evaluation, not just training advice. The time-of-day pattern matters Behavior that worsens between 8 p.m. and 7 a.m. can reflect fatigue, reduced coping ability, sleep disruption, or underlying anxiety disorders. In some cases, medical contributors (pain, gastrointestinal discomfort, neurologic issues) must also be ruled out. Immediate steps you can take now -Feed in a quiet, separate area with zero interaction during meals -Remove access to high-value items unless supervised -Do not disturb him when resting -Keep interactions predictable, low-arousal, and brief -Ensure adequate daytime enrichment and structured rest periods 6. Seek professional help I strongly recommend scheduling an appointment with a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) or, at minimum, your primary veterinarian with referral to one. Early intervention at this stage can significantly improve long-term outcomes, but delaying treatment can allow patterns to consolidate. Best regards, Adrienne

Hi Russ, Thank you for the thoughtful message and welcome to the forums! I’m glad to hear you’re finding the material useful and have already beginning to apply it. I appreciate you taking the time to clarify this point before promoting the system more broadly. You’re absolutely right to distinguish between attention-seeking behaviors and behaviors that pose a safety risk. The principle of not “entertaining” unwanted behavior is primarily aimed at avoiding reinforcement, but it does not mean allowing unsafe behavior to continue unchecked. For behaviors such as chasing the cat or jumping on a person, the priority is always safety and management. In those moments, calmly interrupting the behavior is appropriate. This can be done by using environmental management (leashes, barriers, tethers), blocking access, or briefly removing the dog from the situation, ideally in a neutral, low-emotion manner. The goal is to stop the behavior without adding arousal, frustration, or reinforcement. Once the behavior is interrupted, redirecting the dog to a clearly taught, incompatible alternative behavior (for example, orienting to the handler, going to a mat, or engaging in a different activity) is consistent with the system. Over time, proactive management and reinforcement of appropriate behaviors reduces the likelihood that unsafe behaviors will occur in the first place. So in short: unsafe behaviors should be calmly and efficiently interrupted for safety, while minimizing emotional energy and avoiding reinforcement. The longer-term focus remains on prevention, skill-building, and reinforcement of desirable alternatives. You’re thinking about this exactly the right way, and I’m glad you reached out for clarification. Please don’t hesitate to ask if additional questions come up as you continue working through the material. Happy training! Best regards, Adrienne

Hi there and welcome to the forums. My apologies if my reply comes late. What you are describing is very interesting and thank you for taking the time to provide such a thoughtful description of Leia. this is actually a very helpful history, and I can understand why this has been both puzzling and frustrating. I don't find Leia's behavior unusual in presentation. Most importantly: yes, this is very fixable, though it typically requires a shift in how the behavior is understood rather than simply adding more training cues. From a behavioral standpoint, this does not look like in my opinion as a dog "needing more stimulation” in the traditional sense. Instead, I believe this pattern is most consistent with learned compulsive arousal tied to social context and predictability. The rubber ball has likely become Leia’s primary coping strategy when arousal increases, particularly when both attachment figures are present or when a transition occurs (someone entering the home). The fact that she sleeps when one person leaves, tells us this is not excess energy, but rather socially driven over-arousal as this behavior is context-specific ( in occurs when both people are present,/visitors arriving). In cases like this, the ball is primarily not a toy, but a self-soothing object that loses its power once the stimulating stimuli/events are gone. The good news is that this does type of behavior can be fixed by implementing a variety of behavior change strategies such as: Reducing rehearsal of the behavior (management is essential at first). Lowering baseline arousal/impulse control games. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ Teaching alternative behaviors around arrivals that are incompatible with fetch (like laying on a mat) https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ Her background as a former stray, combined with her genetic makeup, makes this presentation very understandable. Dogs who have experienced instability often cling tightly to predictable rituals especially in emotionally charged moments. If you work through the impulse control and arousal-regulation exercises in the course, you should see meaningful improvement. This is a situation where less excitement and more predictability will help her far more than additional outlets. Please feel free to share follow-up details. I hope this helps, Happy training! Adrienne

Hello and welcome to the forums, You’re absolutely right that mental exercise can be just as fatiguing (and often more regulating) than physical exercise, especially for young, high-energy dogs. One of the main goals of this program is to expand an owner’s “toolbox” well beyond sit, down, and stay, and to show how cognitive work, problem-solving, impulse control, and choice-based activities can be incorporated into daily life. Regarding training philosophies, the approach here is grounded in learning theory and evidence-based, force-free methods. The emphasis is on teaching skills in a way that promotes emotional regulation, resilience, and clarity for the dog, rather than relying on pressure when distractions increase. In practice, many dog parents find that once behaviors are well taught and reinforced in varied contexts, food becomes just one of many possible reinforcers rather than a limitation. That said, the course is not about debating training labels. The goal is giving you practical, applicable strategies for mental stimulation, enrichment, and skill development that can be used with any breed or mix. You’ll find a wide range of activities designed to challenge dogs cognitively while also supporting calmness and self-control, not just energy expenditure. I’m glad you’re here, and I think you’ll find the material aligns well with your goal of raising a mentally satisfied, adaptable dog. Please don’t hesitate to reach out in the forums as you start applying the exercises to your puppy’s daily routine. Happy training! Adrienne

I have a Maltipoo male puppy 6.5 months old. He is increasingly getting more nervous and resource guards his food, bed, and at times anything and everything. When anxious he tends to be stiff, have a blank stare, lunges even when unprovoked, and at times gets around to bite too. Fortunately, he backs off when you are firm and stay in the same place. This behaviour is more pronounced between 8pm and 7am. During the day he is far less anxious. Please recommend steps to take

just wanted to say I’ve been going through the material and I really like the approach so far. I haven’t completed the full course yet, but I’ve been reviewing it and starting to apply some of the methods with my own dog, and I’m excited to begin promoting it. I did have one question about something I want to make sure I fully understand before pushing it more heavily. I understand the principle of not “entertaining” unwanted behavior — not reinforcing it with positive or negative attention. That makes total sense for attention-seeking behaviors. But when it comes to behaviors that could be unsafe or harmful, like my dog chasing the cat or jumping on someone, simply ignoring it doesn’t seem effective in the moment because the behavior continues. What’s the recommended approach in those situations? Is the goal to calmly interrupt and redirect to a correct behavior without adding emotional energy, or is there a specific method the course prefers for handling unsafe actions? I really want to make sure I’m using the system correctly as I’m applying it in real life. Thanks again — I’m genuinely enjoying the content and looking forward to working with it more. Best, Russ

My significant other sent me this link a long time ago. I finally sat down and read it and said, we need to do this for our rescue dog Leia. We can see that she's super smart, but she's developed one specific behavior that is very frustrating. She is completely obsessed with a rubber ball and plays with it from morning to night non stop... as long as BOTH of us are in the room. If one of us leaves, she lays down and goes to sleep. As soon as another person comes to the door or through the door, instead of greeting that person, she grabs the ball and runs to me to have me throw it in the living room again. And manically, she'll continue to do that over and over again until that other person leaves, or until I put the ball away, and then she grabs another toy to do the same thing. Is this unusual and, more importantly, is this fixable? Thank you. We've gone to several trainers and can't seem to figure this out. She is 51% shepherd, 22% pit bull, 17% staffer. Terrier, with little bits of mastiff and pug DNA also. She was found as an emaciated stray in Lancaster, PA and the rescue people got her back to health. We adopted her last October and she's now a healthy and active 55 pounds!

Hi, I recently purchased the course access. I needed an inventory of ideas on how to keep my new puppy mentally exercised, which I heard may be just as tiring to a dog as physical exercise. And so I went ahead and bought it. I also come from using Garret Wings DIYK9 courses and online videos for training information. He is what you call a balanced trainer, where he will be 90% positive reinforcement and 10% pressure on the dog for when there are no treats or maybe when there are distractions present that are stronger than the lure of treats. Whether or not you all approve of such methods, what I hope to gain from here is learning how to keep my new dog mentally stimulated, and not just sit, down and stay. Which are good but may not be enough for certain high energy breeds.

Hi, welcome to the forums, As a dog trainer/behavior consultant, I cannot provide medical or nutritional advice. Ideally, this should be answered by a veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary nutritionist. It sounds like you are in the weaning process and this requires specific instructions based on a variety of factors such as age, weight, overall health etc. I hope that by now, you have found the answer and that your pups are thriving.