Adrienne

Hi there! Welcome to the forums! Often this happens when the puppy perceives the paper more appealing than the treats used or when a reward history hasn't established yet and the puppy hasn't gotten a "taste of the game"-so to say Here are some options: -Try shaping: For this, you'll need to be very fast. In other words, initially click (if you're clicker training) and toss a treat for walking towards the post-it note, then for walking towards it and moving the head towards it, then for making nose contact with it (before he has a chance to chew it). Chances are, once she realizes the purpose of the game, she'll learn that it's more rewarding to interact with the post-it note rather than chewing it. -Keep your post it note in your hand with the thumb over it so he can' grasp it, and practice clicking and rewarding sniffing it, and light nose touches before keeping it on the ground. -Some puppies find paper irresistible. You can try to substitute the post-it note with something else that is safe to use and see if she'll interact with it without chewing it or being tempted to carry it around. Other objects that come to mind are yogurt lids, Tupperware lids and rulers used as a target stick.

Interactions among household dogs can be quite complex. Sometimes, finding the true instigator is not as easy or straightforward as thought (not implying it's your case, just in general). Usually, with young pups, the older dog is the one that sets the rules towards a boisterous pup who acts out. Although, it's also true that older dogs often allow young puppies to get away with things, granting them a "puppy license" the older dog still may use body language in a ritualistic way to teach the puppy social skills and some boundaries. When adolescence is around the corner and then in full swing, the older dog may start to pick on the adolescent youngster. For example, the older dog may offer toys to youngsters as a dare to touch or take the object. Behavior specialists often emphasize the importance of supporting the older dog's effort during this time. Then, in several cases, as the younger female dog further matures, things may start to change, and the younger dog may start to be the instigator, in such case, support of the younger dog may help (although this is something that needs to be carefully evaluated/assessed to not worsen a situation). I agree with you that when Gertie starts something, it's not abnormal that Esther reacts, especially considering that she's now an adolescent, a time when they can be brats. I just find the intensity of reaction towards her that you have described in the past, starting when Esther was younger, concerning. However, it could be simply that I am imagining her reaction in a certain way, while if I were to observe it personally, it may give me a different picture. On top of management to prevent contentious situations, it also helps working on creating positive associations, engaging both dogs in bonding activities, and every now and then breaking up a play session temporarily if it gets too rough. The fur scroll Gertie exhibits at the end of play in the video, may be a way to remove something from her coat, but can also be a sign of something going on at an emotional level, such as a sign of relief that the play session is over. Successfully breaking up a play session can also be a good starting point for working on breaking up one day a potential fight. In other words, it gives us an extra layer of protection, knowing that if we're able to interrupt an aroused play session, we may also be eventually able to work on interrupting potential conflict preventing things from escalating.

Would you go with a 15', 20', 30', or longer lead? Looking on Chewy now and trying to decide between a tie out where I can have my hands free, or a lead where we can move around the yard. When she's finally ready for the dog park perimeter I'll use her regular 6' bungee leash that I can buckle around my waist and the martingale collar. The side of the park we'll have to work on is near a busy street and I don't want to risk her slipping out or yanking the leash out of my hand. The other side would put us at risk of running into other dogs as they enter the park. Can you tell I've put some thought into this? I would start with 6' leash for better control to start with. Then, as she gets better with her impulse control, you can work with gradual longer leashes.

so I guess in those case, touching / grabbing toys is ok ? when I touch / grab, it's not to tidy them, I would start a tug or fetch I never confiscate them. He would sometimes finish a play session alone by going away and chewing on some, and I tidy the ones he's not on I may have tidy some high value ones before to keep the rarity a source of joy for next time If the dog runs off with it, I would take it as a sign of the dog wanting to interact with the toy in a different way (often wanting to lie down and chew on it), so I would swap it with a different toy he may value more or an edible chew, especially considering his past history of guarding things.

Yup, your are on the right track! I like to take a multi-faceted approach. - Walk your dog before you plan to watch your TV show and then play some engaging games that keep him busy or keep him busy with some fun training sessions. Do this about an hour before watching TV. This may not stop the tv behavior, but will help your dog succeed, as your dog may need to release some steam which will help him be more relaxed. This will also pave the path to a routine where watching TV translates into relaxation and winding-down time. -Prevent rehearsal of behavior. Here's an important fact about dogs: generally, the more they rehearse problem behaviors, the more these behaviors intensify and put roots making them more difficult to overcome. So if you need to watch a show that you know will evoke the undesirable behavior, you are better off putting Rover in a crate or playpen away from the TV or in another room to enjoy a stuffed Kong or some other safe, long-lasting goodies. Your dog, of course, doesn't have to be secluded in isolation in the farthest room of the house or in the garage or out in the dog house. Instead, try to find a distance from which he is less likely to react and give him something fun to do while he's there so he doesn't get bored and perceive being crated as punishment. This, of course, is just a management plan, while you buy some time as you make future plans to start working on the problem. -Keep Your Dog Under Threshold Desensitization is a behavior modification plan that entails offering less intense versions of the trigger so that your dog is under threshold. This means making the sights and sounds emitted by the TV less salient so that your dog can better cope with them. If your dog is reactive towards noises emitted by the TV, lower the volume a tad bit. Ideally, your dog should still be able to hear the sounds, but they should not be so salient as to evoke responses such as barking or attacking the speakers. This may take a little bit of experimenting, but it can be tricky as dogs have sensitive ears, and may still be able to hear and react to the most subtle sounds. Investing in some headphones so that you can still watch your shows initially may help. If visual stimuli get your dog barking, keep your dog at a distance from where he doesn't react or reacts considerably less. You might have to keep your dog leashed to you initially or tethered at a distance with something to do as you are sitting on the couch. Most dogs are reactive to both sights and sounds, so distance and lower volume can help lower the threshold. -Make Great Things Happen: "Treat the Trigger!" On top of desensitization, you want to start working on counterconditioning. I like to call this game "treat the trigger" as your dog gets a tasty treat every time his trigger pops up. You can start practicing this exercise when you know a show or sound that makes your dog react is about to be aired. Arm yourself with the tastiest treats your dog adores cut into bite-size pieces (or a portion of your dog's meal -kibble in this case- if that's what he likes) and place them in a treat bag. Hold several of them in your hand so that they're ready as needed. The moment a trigger pops up on the screen before your dog has a chance to react, make a smacking sound with your mouth and toss a treat. Repeat, repeat, and repeat several times. Soon, your dog will make the connection and learn that when his trigger pops up on the screen, he will be getting tasty treats! This fun game allows your dog to, therefore, engage in an alternate behavior other than the barking. On top of that, he gets a nice exercise workout as he gets to chase the tossed treats so that you can cater to his predatory drive in a more productive way too. If you want to add a bit of operant behavior (get your dog to do something), at some point, you can make your smacking sound upon his trigger pops up on the screen and ask your dog to sit, lie down or perform a trick before you toss the treat. -Teach to Chill on the Mat Yes, training your pup to stay on a mat and keep quiet while you watch your favorite show can turn into an evening routine. Simply place a mat at a distance from the TV, preferably diagonal to it so that it's out of your dog's direct vision. If your dog is not mat trained, you can use an indoor tether, (always under supervision). Provide your dog with something to chew while there such as a stuffed Kong or a bully stick so that your dog is kept occupied while you are watching your favorite show.

The odd thing is Gertie has been the instigator every time. Esther happily shares toys (no tension when Gertie comes near - opposite, she entices Gerts to play) and it's the same with treats. It's a very strange thing to experience after Momo's situation! No whale eye, no tensing, no movement of her head to block or make to snap / bite. The only thing she does that drives me Bonkers is push Gertie out of the way for a better position (e.g., to get closer to me). She gives no push back when redirected. I usually ask for a sit, but lately it's been do overs. E.g., she rushes past us down the stairs, Gertie and I go back into the office and I close the door. Esther comes bounding up the stairs like, "hey! Aren't we going?!" We're down from 5 repeats to only 1/2 (she gets down a few stairs and a vocal correction brings her back). In general, things start changing as pups mature and reach social maturity. Once reaching social maturity, they start to become the main instigators, often challenging the other dog (this is mostly observed the most in female-female interactions), but of course, these are just generalizations. There are plenty of female dogs, even close in age, getting along ok other than the occasional ritualized aggression squabble. Often there are just bumps along the road as they reach social maturity, but as long as dog A tells Dog B that she would like priority access to something and dog B is fine with that, it may solve with just some noise and without major fights. However, my main concern is how you have described Esther reacts towards Gertie, this can turn more problematic as she matures and if tackled early finding effective ways to manage and redirect and create positive associations could help versus intervening when there is an established history of conflicts.

The question is: would that flirt pole be a good tool to use outside the dog park when I'm ready to get her to stop going ape over other dogs? I know it would be an excellent distraction, but I'm concerned it may put her in a height of excitability and thus lend to lowering her threshold when we walk closer. She's coming along nicely with "drop." I'm capturing it when she plays with her Kong - every time she drops it to dislodge the treats I say "drop!" and she's starting to piece it together. This girl self-trained on the potty bell after watching Gertie do it twice, she's Smart and very open to capturing. Oh the things we could do if only she could behave in public! Here's my thought: Walk around the perimeter with the flirt pole. When she starts to stiffen up I drop the flirt pole (if she even stops looking at it to notice the other dogs, that is), to redirect her attention. Move closer, pole, closer, pole, and so forth. I would say you can use the flirt pole, but if that's the absolute only thing that will distract her, but just as a brief starting point just to prevent her from getting into that "zone" where she's too distracted to listen, but I would aim to then switch to a calmer redirect. I would prefer starting with a response to a smacking sound or asking her to perform a behavior, even an easy one such as you asking her to "watch", looking into your eyes with your hand at eye level, followed by tossing a handful of treats/kibble on the ground to "find them!" treasure hunt style. I think about it this way: if she can only redirect to flirt pole at the dog park, it could be a sign of her being too over threshold, with the flirt pole becoming sort of something to vent her frustration rather than learning to be in a thinking state. I would suggest mimicking what is done in group obedience class settings, in other words, working at the park asking for behaviors such as sits, downs, hand targets, attention heeling etc. starting at a distance from which she is responsive and praising rewarding generously. I would also aim to do lots of impulse control/frustration tolerance training because I think she needs to lower her excitability and learn to be more in a thinking state rather than a super excited, reactive one. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/impulse-control-frustration-tolerance/ Oh! They got into a fight a couple nights ago. I was doing desensitization / conditioning training with Esther with YouTube dogs - we're still not up to real life interactions and that's my fault as we have so little time to train. After about 5 minutes of Esther getting treats for being good Gertie comes over to see what's going on. Ugh. Mistake. I was watching the video to see when a dog came on (Bondi Vet channel) so I missed what happened, but suddenly there was an eruption and yep, Esther had Gertie pinned. Don't know when Gertie is going to learn to stop starting fights because she's Not a scrapper whereas Esther is. I've said it before, but good grief what happened in her young life?! 9 months old and she's a brute. My best guess is Gertie touched Esther while Esther was trying to contain herself as we were training. I was able to verbally break it up, but I was ready to splash my half gallon of water onto them (the beds are joined by a waterproof mattress pad, bring it on!). Lesson learned: Esther can be trained for her reactivity Only when Gertie is contained or elsewhere. I'm remembering Hrdrika (sp?), Remy, and Hannah, and their journey at this point! We're not in quite the same situation, but parallel at the least, and the frustration and feelings of failure are probably similar. Yes, I agree, that behavior modification exercises should be done only with one dog, especially if there are elements of over excitability-reactivity that may spill into aggression. Does Esther become possessive over treats when training by any chance? Other than her being concentrated, and redirecting on Gertie (sort of like the redirected aggression cases we see when two dogs see another dog pass by the fence and one is overly aroused and redirects against the other ) I wonder whether Esther just wanted Gertie away from the area/you or the treats or the whole combo. Sadly, according to a study, the dogs most involved in household fights are same-sex dogs with female dogs being overrepresented. Typically, the instigators of most fights were younger dogs and the second dog in the home. Risks factors that predisposed dogs to fighting included: a history of having had multiple owners, being adopted after 12 weeks of age (past the socialization period), being acquired from a shelter, pet store or being a singleton puppy. Co-Morbid Issues included fear and aggression, with 40 percent of dogs having shown aggression towards unfamiliar dogs, 27percent aggression to human family members, 27 percent aggression towards strangers, and 6 percent aggression at the vet’s office. Thirty-five percent were fearful towards strangers, 31 percent were fearful in the veterinarian’s office, 23 percent were fearful towards unfamiliar dogs The first episodes of fighting typically occur when one dog matures and starts becoming confident enough to use aggression to control access to resources. It is also seen when one dog starts getting older. The owner intervening to support a particular dog can also contribute to fights, creating instability and increased conflict. Sherman,et al. in a study found that treatment involving systematic desensitization and counterconditioning and obedience training improved or resolved 59 percent of cases of interdog household aggression Prognosis was worse in cases where the instigating dog was younger, had bitten a person and the owner struggled in predicting the circumstances in which the fights did occur. In the study, it was found that there was a clear instigator and recipient of aggression in 71 percent of cases. In 70 percent of these cases, the instigator was the second dog added to the home and was younger than the recipient of aggression. The good news is that caught early, there may be better chances in keeping things under control, although there are various prognostic factors to consider. Even in Hrdrika's case (although advanced) it seems like she found a good behavior professional to work directly with her and last things I have heard was that things were going pretty well. I know you were considering getting help, but couldn't drive to the consultant's place, but I feel that it would be best if the professional could come to your home to directly observe their interactions and see how they behave in their "home base" rather than in a novel place and show you what methods to use to your advantage (on top of management of course) based on his/her observations./history taking/functional assessment.

I am thinking that it would be important finding out what's going on behind a dog who at some point doesn't want to to bring the ball back or let go of a tug toy. Things to question are: Is the dog not bringing the ball back/ or leaving with the tug toy because: 1) he han't learned how to play the game of fetch/tug at a fluent level enough 2) he wasn't trained to "drop" the ball or the tug toy 3) he doesn't like/understand the game of fetch (here we need to consider individual factors as some dogs don't understand the concept or find it redundant chasing after a ball over and over or tugging at a toy when they would rather grasp the toy and just lie down and chew on it 4) the dog prefers to play a game of "keep away" rather than tug/fetch (not recommended) 5) the dog is tired of the game and would rather chew the toy 5) the dog is possessive of the ball or tug toy and doesn't want to give it away (in such cases you would often see possessive behavior around other objects as well and the dog's body language would look tense, rather than playful) And of course....you may see a combo of several of these. Generally, in dogs who love the game of fetch, they voluntarily drop the ball in hopes of having it tossed again. If the dog runs off with it, I would take it as a sign of the dog getting tired of the game or preferring anther type of game, so I would swap it with a different toy he may value more or an edible chew. If this is happening due to the dog being tired of the game, I would keep the game brief and fun and then end it with some praise and swapping with a different toy he may value more or an edible chew just to play it safe in case there's an element of resource guarding. I personally like to play tug for a bit, then before the dog gets tired of it, I would ask for a final drop, praise and then scatter a few kibble from my pocket for a small treasure hunt game as I leave with the toy.

Kudos to you for working so hard with Loki to help him overcome his fear of the fence. I am glad you are seeing a return in your investment. You both deserve it. 😍

Glad to hear about the great progress! You have helped him a ton and even made arrangements to make the car ideal for him, so your work is paying off. It helps a lot at an emotional level to go to pleasant places. While motion sickness is a physical issue, it also has emotional components that can have an impact and make the motion sickness worse.

Oh my! That must have been horrifying! Kudos to you for keeping a clear head with all of this going on. Both my dogs when senior had all sort of lumps and bumps. Petra had a bunch of lipomas, every time I pet her I could almost swear I would find a new one. I think I got most aspirated, just in case, but it was getting annoying to have them aspirated every time, especially with Petra hating needles. Einstein once had a black looking rather innocent skin tag and it turned out being a melanoma. Fortunately, we removed it early. When Einstein was recovering from it, I had to remind him several times to "leave it" and at night if I heard him move around, I had a flashlight under my pillow just to make sure he wasn't messing with the stitches. I hope Abbi heals quickly now that she's off the prednisone. If her appetite goes down, maybe you can ask your vet whether Entyce may be an option for her.

Hi Robert, I have been told by tech support that they are working around the clock on a technical issue that is taking a bit longer to resolve than hoped for. It should be sorted out pretty soon now.

Hi Cheryl, Glad to hear that Shiloh is now getting into the car, your effort seems to have paid off. It sounds like he may a bit anxious/super motivated about getting into the car quickly, so that may explain the scrambling. Your question regards to the behavior at night sounded familiar, so I took a look back and noticed I replied to you about this time a while back. If you haven't seen my reply, it is here in your previous post at the end:

I hear you, got a flashback when my husband and I had to travel once and left our doggies with my mom and dad for a week or so and told them not to feed them at the table and no table scraps. "Sure no, problem!" said my dad. A week later when we arrive, at dinner time Petra and Einstein strategically placed themselves by the table and both made cute faces directed towards us which was very unusual. The truth comes up with dogs! My dad then finally admitted that when there was some bread left over he would give them a tiny, little piece, ha! Let me know if you are still having trouble entering the main website, I would expect it to be fixed by now.

We will try the total ignore, and hope it will implement fast enough until we have new guests I'm not really comfortable telling my guests "let pup have paws on you while you eat" 🙂 (which are likely to be dirty as it's really rainy in the area at the moment hahaha) In that case, when guests are over, you can try to set Loki up for success by having him enjoy some long lasting goodie on his mat ( strategically placed at a distance from the table). Alternatively, a baby gate may help (especially for guests who aren't too eager about dogs being around) until you can practice with some collaborative guests who are willing to work on ignoring (even if he makes the cutest face or sounds) and help reinforce in Loki's mind that, nope, no food/attention is given by the table, even by a variety of different guests. I think there was an update or something and tech support is currently working on it. The article mostly covered the importance of ignoring, management (not letting food fall) ignoring and using the mat training coordinated with meal times.

Usually, with pups or dogs who demand food, I suggest not giving any treats nearby the table. I know it makes sense to praise and treat for paws on the floor, but we needs to consider that when dogs receive treats in a certain area, they will be more likely to stick to that area more and more. On top of this, let's consider the possibilities for behavior chains, that is, Loki learning every that "every time I jump up and them put my paws on the ground I get a treat." What I usually do is ignore the paws on knees behavior and make sure to never leave food by the edges of tables that attract dogs and even may encourage them to lick or steal. I also make sure that no crumbs ever fall to the ground (I tuck myself well in close to the table) and if something still happens to fall, I am ready for asking a well-timed "leave it." With time, aside some initial extinction bursts with some barking along the way, if no food is ever received nearby the table, the begging/attention-seeking behavior tends to decrease and eventually extinguish. An article about begging at the table can be found here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/begging/

I am glad that you were able to stop the argument verbally versus using physical intervention and that your dog paid attention to you. If this has been a new conflict after no conflict for some time, it could be the "novelty factor" again at play since you mentioned that most conflict occurs over new toys (consider that toys Esther and Gertie haven't seen around for some time qualify as novel as well from a dog's perspective). Perhaps more than playing tug in sort of unworried way, the novelty factor turned this at some point into more of a real competition. In a first video you posted, of your dogs playing tug, I think Gertie wasn't as bouncy in this form of play as Esther was, so it can be her goal is to simply gain access to the toy rather than playing at some point. Therefore, management once again is the ideal course of action until you can enlist help to assess their relationship. It's a bit concerning though how you describe Esther reacts when Gertie gets grouchy: pinning Gertie to the ground and then going into attack mode ready to fight. She is rather young still so one must think into the future about how she may react once she's socially mature and more powerful. As she matures though, Gertie may end up being less "grouchy" and the tables may turn where Esther may be the one playing grouchy, only that Gertie may respect her wishes and not react to it and just let her have the toy (or whatever she wants). In several occasions, the younger dogs being added to a household are the ones that end up taking over gaining priority access to some resources. The process though is often not without conflict along the way. How the conflict is solved is important though, to ensure less harm is done. If everything stays ritualistic, with just noise or squabbles that can be interrupted easily that's much more desirable, than two female dogs with a real intent to harm who are oblivious to the owner's requests to disengage. As you mention though, I can see being kept indoors for a long time can impact behavior. So the weather change could have been an aggravating factor. Exercise and mental stimulation can help relax dogs and reduce their reactivity by increasing beneficial concentrations of serotonin in their brain.

Hi Jennifer, Sorry to hear about Maxs' behavior change. I am not sure what may have happened in regards to this unusual behavior change. There are soooo many things that can go on. Things that come to mind, somebody teasing him or scaring him by the gate area, not feeling well, his routine being disrupted and putting a toll, use of outdated training methods or conflict in the home causing stress, neurological issues, thyroid problems in this breed are quite common, even skin issues can cause behavior changes in some dogs, etc etc. The fact the girlfriend admitted him to being grumpy, confirms that something must be brewing. I hope they can take him to the vet for a thorough check-up. That would be a good starting point.

Hello and welcome to the forums! Is this question directed to a particular member who owns a Cane Corso puppy?

Glad to hear that you are seeing progress! Yes, with the standing over, also known as "T-posture" or "perpendicular posture" it is a good idea to intervene by cueing the dog away (using smacking sound or some other cue to redirect the dog). Here's the thing: Dogs should be prevented from rehearsing "standing over behaviors" which can turn problematic over time and risk becoming overtime default behaviors used in all encounters with other dogs. In general, dogs do not do too well meeting directly face-to-face. This puts them in a potential adversarial position that can be perceived as intimidating. They do best meeting side-ways walking in an arch-like curve rather than head on. Leashes also interfere with natural communication. It is best to keep meet and greets among dogs brief and break them off after a few seconds should the dogs fail to do so themselves. It may work best to happily cue the dogs to disengage rather than use the leash to pull the dog's apart. As seen in the video below, if the encounter was kept briefer and perhaps without the leash jerk, things may have gone differently.

What a cutie! Thanks for posting the pictures! Sorry, those links indeed are not working for me either, here is the link to the main potty training guide: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/7-secret-potty-training-strategies/ These potty training threads may also turn helpful: Happy training! Best, Adrienne

You are very welcome! Happy training!

Hello and welcome to the forums! Interesting mix! It sounds like you are doing a great job in socializing her and exposing her to everyday stimuli that she'll be likely to encounter in her life. If she is so focused on observing moving stimuli, such as cars, cyclists, people etc, if can be a bit of herding instinct mixed in there with her shepherd heritage. These dogs are very attracted to movement and have a strong, ingrained instinct to "herd " moving things from one area to another from an early age. These dogs get very still "giving eye'" as a way to control livestock. On the other hand, it could be that she's just still to evaluate the situation. Rottweilers have an instinct to take a "wait and see" approach. My Rotties would pant and then close their mouth and get very still upon seeing people approaching our property, carefully evaluating what to expect/do. If they realized the people were strangers, they would bark/whine and grab our attention, if they recognized them as friends, after a moment of stillness, they would shortly right after go into greeting mode with their rear ends wiggling happily. In any case, it's good that you are able to redirect her. If this happens often by the window and she is responsive to you already, you can do some "look at that" exercises every now and then: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ and then carry over that training outdoors on the porch. If as she develops, she starts to obsess about the window or engages in barking, it may help to prevent access to the window area (or use window film/blinds) when not doing training. This to prevent a habit from establishing, which can happen often with working breeds who find a hobby of barking when they are just a bit bored and have nothing better to do. I doubt this would be freeze from sheer terror as a dog in that state won't typically take treats and the body language would show fear (tucked tail, ears back, shaking, whale eyes, panting, enlarged eyes etc more on this here https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/signs-fear-stress-dogs/) and you may start to see reluctance to want to go outside rather than eagerness, but just in case since I cannot personally observe this behavior and, to give the benefit of doubt, consider that by presenting these stimuli initially at a distance and giving treats every now and then helps create positive associations which can help dogs overcome their fears as long as these stimuli aren't presented at too intense levels, but rather going gradually at the pup's pace. There are no silly questions when it comes to our puppies and dogs. We love them very much and want the best for them!

Thank you for the extra details, they are very helpful! I am concerned about this behavior because it is indicative of resource guarding, and at 8 months, Glenn is older now and his bite is therefore harder since his jaws are fully developed, and on top of that, you report this behavior has increased. On the positive side though, if this behavior is rather recent (like a month ago) it doesn't have a very long history, so there is room for changing things. The most important rule at this point is to do as much as possible to prevent him from rehearsing the problem behavior. This means lots of management to prevent from putting him into situations that place him into the position to feel the need to guard. This is because dogs are masters in rehearsing behaviors (the more the rehearse a problematic behavior, the more it becomes ingrained). To prevent a dog from rehearsing resource guarding behavior it would therefore be important to avoid as much as possible all situations in which your beagle is likely to guard. So here are a few examples: -Avoiding leaving around objects your dog is likely to get a hold of and guard. -Tossing tissues in the trash can right after being used. -Clearing tables, chairs, couches, tabletops etc from things he may grab. -Closing doors to prevent access to things. -Investing in trash cans with dog-proof lids or keeping trash cans out of reach. -On walks, constantly scanning the road for things on the ground that he may pick up and walking away from them (use a shorter leash if you are using a retractable leash or long line). Avoid tall grassy areas where things are may be hiding, walk only in areas in the clear, from where you can spot things in distance and avoid them accordingly. So what to do if Glenn happens to still grab something despite all our precautions? Avoid prying his mouth open. Here's the thing: Forcibly prying a dog’s mouth open to remove something is at the oppositive spectrum of instilling trust and teaching them to voluntarily drop. Prying the mouth to remove things, often causes them to clamp down harder and convinces them further that we are not trustworthy. It tells dog we are a taker and not a giver. So my favorite method is this one: Find something edible that is higher in value than what your dog has and that is safe for him to have. Whatever it is, keep it always handy so that you can reach out for it as needed. Make noise with the wrapper, open the fridge, unlock the jar storing his favorite edible chews. Chances are, he'll prick his ears and watch you carefully. Let him clearly see what you are doing. Don't walk towards his possession. At this point, your dog may drop the item he had in his mouth voluntarily to come see what you are doing or he may approach you carrying the item in his mouth to check what you are doing. Once you have your high-value items to trade for in your hand, let your dog see it, (your dog should drop the item he had), walk past an open door or baby gate, toss the desired item that way and as soon as he's past the door/baby gate to go get it, close the door/baby gate between you and your dog so that you can safely retrieve the dropped item. This method works well because on top of getting your dog to voluntary relinquish the object, you are also teaching him the art of "fair trading." In other words, instead of dreading you coming his way when he has a possession in fear of losing it, rep after rep, he looks forward to it because he has learned that you always have something better to offer. On walks, make it habit to always carry with you on something valuable in your treat bag so that you can work on exchanges. I like to carry with me "moo tubes" which are beef tracheas or bully sticks in my pant's pockets and some high and super high-value treats in my treat bag. These are for the most part management solutions, they are important to implement to prevent rehearsal of problematic behavior and to avoid putting ourselves in risky situations where the dog may bite. The longer term solution is a mix of training and behavior modification. Namely, your dog needs to learn that when you approach when he has something, it's because you are exchanging it with something higher value not because you are trying to take something away.So i's therefore important to ensure that the high-value treat/food is always much more valuable than the item left behind. This comes with lots of trials of positive exchanges as well with training leave it and drop its. Here is a read on dogs who protect toys and how to swap toys: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/overprotective-of-toys/ Training a reliable response to leave it and drop is also important, however in a dog who resource guards, caution is needed in taking baby steps and the training should be done under the guidance of a professional. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/ https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/drop-it/ If you search the forums, you will find several posts tackling resource guarding. They may have slightly different responses, but the core method is to use management and behavior modification aiming to instill trust that when we are approaching, it's not to take the object away, but to trade it/offer something far better. The goal is to create a positive conditioned emotional response, where the dog starts looking forward to us approaching rather than dreading it. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/conditioned-emotional-response-cer/ Consider that working on resource guarding when there are signs of aggression or impending aggression (growling, snapping, biting) requires behavior modification more than just training, so there are greater margins for error if done too fast or sloppily, and more risks, therefore I always recommend for safety and correct implementation to consult with a behavior professional using force-free methods who can provide in-person coaching and assistance. In regards, to the behavior towards others dogs, it is true that during adolescence we can see changes in their behavior. You can read more about this here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/ If you are working with a dog trainer, your dog trainer should be able to notice what exactly evokes the growling and provide tips/solutions on avoiding that. It would be important seeing what triggers exactly his behavior so one has a starting point on exactly what to work on. For example, if he growls when other dogs come near him, the goal would be to not let the other dogs approach that close so that he is under threshold https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ and perhaps just doing some 'look at that dog' exercises, where he is fed a treat every time he looks at a dog from a comfortable distance. The guide for this is found here, only that he would do it from distance from other dogs at the agility class rather than from the window: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ Again, this involves more behavior modification than actual training. It involves baby steps through systematic desensitization and counterconditioning. Here is read about desensitization: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/ Here is a read about counterconditioning: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/ However, if your puppy was always friendly and playful with other dogs and now he is growling and this is very, very uncharacteristic for him, I would suggest a vet appointment just to rule out any medical conditions. When dogs are friendly and playful and out of the blue start growling or acting aggressive, this sends a red flag that something may be possibly going on at a medical level. Even if everything turn out being fine in the health department, it's important to rule this out because one can do all the behavior modification in the world but won't get anywhere if the underlying cause is something medical that needs addressed. Many medical conditions can lower a dog's aggression threshold making them more likely to lash out. This can be ear pain from an ear infection, or just feeling under the weather due to a digestive problem or just about anything that makes them feel "off." I find it a bit unusual for a dog to be extremely aggressive right after the being neutered, especially since most vets now send them home with pain meds. This sounds like it may be related to pain. It could be the surgery caused him to be very unsettled due to discomfort and the after effect is still lingering at physical or emotional level. He may have learned that growling has prevented you from touching him and now he is applying the same method to keep distance when he has a valuable possession. Aggression can have a learned component like this. Any sudden total changes in temperament are therefore a good reason to visit the vet. He may be growling out of the blue at his former play mates because of some residual internal pain that is making him cranky and more on the defensive. If he was on leash when he growled, another thing to rule out is barrier frustration. I hope this helps. Please let me know if you have any other questions. Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog shows signs of potential aggression (lunging, barking, growling, snapping, biting) for safety, please consult with a dog behavior professional who uses force-free behavior modification techniques (no shock, prongs, or physical corrections) for direct in-person guidance. Articles, videos and general info found in the forums or course (or any online source) are not meant to replace in-person training/instruction. By using this course and forum, you are waiving any liability claims or other type of claims related to any dogs' behavior against you or others.

it is said, that we should travel doors first, to show we're the leader, we're in charge. However, Loki always goes first, because we train SIT + STAY + GO to learn him impulse control in front of doors. Is this thing "we humans have to go first through the door" is a real thing, and relevant ? Should we change, go first, and invite to follow us, or we're just fine ? The notion of humans going through doors first, along with other rules such as never let the dog eat before you, never let your dog walk ahead of you or never let a dog go through a hallway before you etc. etc. are based on outdated research. In a nut shell, all of these so-called "pack rules" were rules stemming from the the fact that, back in time, dogs were believed to form packs with their humans and that they were always vying for achieving the top status over them. These outdated belief originated from old studies based on captive wolves conducted by Robert Shenkel in 1947. More extensive research on wolves were conducted by American biologist and wolf behavior expert, David Mech. Instead of studying wolves in captivity, David Mech decided to study wolves in a natural setting. Unlike Shenkel's observations, David Mech's studies revealed that the leadership role was not carried out by a single authoritarian "alpha wolf" but rather by an "alpha pair" comprising a male and female wolf. Most importantly, the alpha pair's role simply encompassed the role of being parents, and the whole pack was simply a family. David's Mech revolutionary studies therefore paved the path to kinder training approaches. In a sort of way, his studies inculcating the idea that humans are ultimately more like parents to their dogs, providing them with gentle guidance and care. This has paved the path to a less adversarial relationship between humans and dogs. On top of this, research has shown that dogs and wolves are more different than thought. Despite dogs and wolves sharing the same number of chromosomes (78 arranged in 39 pairs) and therefore 99.96 percent of their genes; this 0.04 percent difference is enough to set wolves and dogs distinctly apart. Comparing dogs to wolves is therefore somewhat similar to comparing humans with chimps! So if not for dominance, then why are dogs so eager to get out first? Most likely, it's because doors are "hot spots' meaning they are associated with the great outdoor teeming with stimuli, and dog owners leaving the home with or without them. Dogs therefore pay extra attention to when their owners go near the door because it can mean they are ready to leave the house. This can be a good thing or a bad thing. If the owner is leaving without the dog, the dog may feel antsy and even rather anxious about being left alone. If the owner is bringing the dog along, then the dog may feel ecstatic about going on a walk or car ride. Dogs may rush through doors in their eagerness to being taken out or fear of being left alone. An eagerness to pay attention to doors is proof that a dog is smart and has learned to associate the door with a variety of emotions. As Stanley Coren puts it, goes a long way, he states: "The greatest fear dogs know is the fear that you will not come back when you go out the door without them.” Dogs therefore tend to rush through doors because of the associated emotions and because they weren't taught any better. In regards to you situation, I prefer to train using the open sesame method with a built-in stay as described in the section "increase the challenge."https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/college/open-sesame/ The reason for this are various, but they may or may not apply to your situation, so you can do what you ultimately prefer, although I think it can come handy in several settings. For instance: 1) By opening the door and checking things out first, you are preventing putting your dog into sticky situations such as letting your dog out and being exposed to other dogs walking nearby, a stray cat walking by or some possible dangers such as traffic. Countless dogs are injured and killed each year from bolting out of opened doors. Don't let this happen to your dog. This can be easily prevented with some training. 2) Having a dog trained to get out of the door only once you are out will help you on those days you are carrying heavy grocery bags or some other bulky items. 3) Training your dog to hold a sit/stay in front of an open door and releasing him after you are out is also a great exercise for impulse control training. Your dog learns to be patient and polite in face of distracting situations.