Adrienne Farricelli

Hi Ron Owens, It's frustrating when all goes well and then just one incident like that can undo all the training, isn't it? When one single incident leads to a dog learning so fast, it's called "single event learning." It can be challenging to undo because it has had such an impact on the dog. At least though, on a positive note it sounds like your golden doodle hasn't generalized this behavior to indoors. What can be done to undo the damage? -First of all, keep on practicing indoors a lot so that your dog continues to feel safe and you reinforce to him that you are no threat to him. -When outdoors, you need to protect your dog as much as possible from another incident like that. Next time, if your dog sees another dog coming his way your dog may go from holding tightly to the ball to even resource guard aggressively. So make sure when you play fetch that you are in an area where no other dogs can steal his ball again. -Once you have found a safe place that is fenced and away from other dogs, you can try offering another new tennis ball (perhaps a larger one) rather than a treat if your dog places the value of the ball over treats. Perhaps try to bounce it around bit, moving back and forth, with your body and making silly sounds to entice your dog to want it. This is what dogs do with each other a lot and the other dog often falls prey to wanting the toy the other dog has. If he drops the ball from his mouth, be ready to quickly praise and toss the new ball. You may need to keep on trading the balls to keep the game alive. Some dog owners keep a bunch of tennis balls in a container with them with dogs who haven't learned yet to drop the ball and play fetch. It may take tossing multiple balls to get the dog to drop. -If you have a yard, work on gradually transitioning from playing fetch in the home to outside. For instance, you can try playing with her nearby the door, then opening the door and tossing the ball out of the door and having her return and drop the ball to you inside, then with you outside by the door and then finally outside. -There are treats and treats in dog training. Sometimes, dogs may turn up their noses to many commercial treats, but the highest value ones are overlooked. For instance, have your tried freeze-dried liver? Baked chicken? Several slivers of organic, lo sodium hot dogs? Freeze dried tripe? The stinkier the better. However, there may be a drawback for super tasty treats: the dog may not longer be much interested in fetching because he may want more of the food, so yes, it may get the dog to drop, but the good treats may also work as a distraction. Fortunately, though it's often short lived, once the dog drops the ball to get the food and then realizes he won't get anymore, he may go back to fetching and the process can be repeated over and over. Another drawback is that the dog may come to expect treats all the time when playing fetch which can put a dent in the game but it can be a negotiation if there is no other way to get the dog to drop. -Some dogs may be willing to drop a ball in exchange for playing with a flirt pole. There are many flirt poles for dogs sold on the market nowadays. Toys with a squeaker toy on the end of the pole are a plus, but care must be taken to avoid the dog from ripping the toy off the pole and ingesting the squeaker. A quite irresistible toy to grasp is a piece of rabbit fur attached to a string or rabbit fur tug toy. Please consider that dogs may resource guard highly valued toys using aggression. Please read all disclaimers at the end. -Since you mention that her returning the ball lasted only for 2 days, it could be she didn't really get to learn the game very well or some puppies seem to play fetch naturally for a little bit, but then they just get tired of the game (they seem to think it is dumb and pointless to return a ball over and over) and rather play "keep away" (getting a hold of the ball and hoping the owners try and get it- a game that is not recommended) rather than play fetch by the rules. Or it could be just that the other dog thwarted the desire for good. - It can be difficult to instill desire for a game the dog has little interest in playing. Fetch is a game that the dog should enjoy doing and actively request it. Dogs wanting to play fetch typically will grab a ball, bring it to the owner (or deposit it at the dog's feet or lap) backing up with eager anticipation. Your dog doesn't show these signs from your description. Forcing the game may make the game appear even more tedious and may turn into a command rather than a game. If you are looking for ways to tire your dog, consider brain games. Providing dogs with mental workouts has been proven to tire dogs more than lots of physical exercise. -Other ways to tire a dog? Putting your dog on a long line allowing her to romp around and sniff to her heart's content can be quite a tiring activity. You can also practice recalls every now and then allowing her to go back and forth (call her, feed her several yummy treats in a row and then send her out to sniff/ explore, then call again, rinse and repeat).You can set up a target area in the open area and practice sending your dog out to the target area and then back to you. You can scatter treats around in the field and send off your dog to search for them in a super treasure hunt game. -Another way dogs can play a lot and tire out is by using a large ball to push around in a large yard such as a Boomer ball. -Some dog owners report success using machines that toss balls for playing fetch. The Go Dog Go fetch machines is an example. -Some dogs rather play tug than fetch. This game requires your dog to abide to rules. You must be able to ask the dog to take and drop on cue. You must always start and end the game (end the game by asking to drop, give a treat and then put the toy away out of reach) which prevents your dog from taking off with it. -There are tug toys with a ball at the end which can help you train your dog to drop on cue and you can try to play with that. If you can get your dog to love playing tug with a tug toy ending with a ball, perhaps outdoors you can have her fetch a tossed ball and then entice her to drop it by engaging her to play tug with the tug toy a bit, then ask to drop the tug toy ball and then toss another ball. Due to the fact though that you describe her as being excessively possessive when outdoors, I would recommend referring to a dog behavior professional for guidance and to play it safe. -Worth mentioning indeed is that holding a ball tight in the mouth can be a sign of resource guarding. The dog may no longer be playing but trying to keep a resource safe. Caution is needed, some dogs may try to bite if the ball is forced out of the mouth or if the owner tries to reach out to grab a ball from the ground. Chasing a dog will only exacerbate the behavior leading to the dog to think that the owner wants to truly steal the item and emphasizing his role as a threat. Consulting with a dog behavior professional may be warranted. -Behavior modification for dogs reluctant to giving up items they are holding in their mouths include management (not putting dogs in situations where they get to rehearse the guarding behavior) practicing lots of drop its to the point that it becomes almost reflexive for the dog to drop any item in the mouth. It often starts by practicing with low value items, gradually increasing the value. Items dropped are always traded with items that are higher in value.The goal is instilling a sense of trust and that the dog has nothing to worry about. Seek a professional for guidance and safety of behavior modification. Disclaimer: dogs reluctant to drop or give up toys or items are often resource guarding. Resource guarding is a serious issue which can lead to bites. In such a case, it is highly recommended to consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation of behavior modification. By reading this answer, you accept such disclaimer.

I would suggest skipping the dog park until your dog has proven to have exceptional social skills. This means being capable of effectively reading other dogs, negotiating, displaying affiliative body language and just overall staying out of trouble. On top of that, we want a very solid recall to call the dog at a moment's notice when the need arises (calling a dog in the home and yard is fairly easy, while calling a dog around other hyper dogs playing left and right is definitely not unless the dog has been trained around such strong distractions). In general, leashes are not allowed in dogs park due to the risk of dogs getting tangled and panicking (which may lead to aggression) and the fact that leashes prevent dogs from retreating as needed and interfere with the display of proper body language. The use of tennis balls/toys is also not allowed in many dog parks due to the potential risks of dogs resource guarding (but of course, all parks have different rules). If the dog is still a work in progress, the risks at stake in a dog park may be too high. Dog parks are frowned upon by many dog trainers/behavior consultants due to the fact that they can set up the stage for altercations and even fights. Even if no fights occur, bullying and emotional damage can scar dogs for life. Now, of course, there are exceptions and several dogs do just fine at the dog park, but these are usually dogs who have been heavily socialized with other dogs, know how to diffuse situations and avoid confrontations, display proper body language when needed, are resilient (bounce back from situations without any impact) and have overall strong social skills. On top of the risks for altercations, something to consider is that dog owners aren't always monitoring play as they should (they check their phones or chit-chat with other dog owners) and some may fail to recognize the early warning signs of play escalating into a potential fight. Interestingly, a study conducted by Tami and Gallagher in 2009, found that, when individuals were shown video recordings of interactions among dogs, they had a hard time distinguishing aggression from play fighting. Now, an important consideration is whether your dog doesn't "like" other dogs on walks because she feels threatened by them or she is displaying barrier frustration. There is a big difference between the two: in the first case, the dog is likely to display defensive aggression and emotional upset if anther dog comes too close, in the latter case, the dog is eager to interact with dogs, but puts on a display of barking and lunging when on leash because she wants to badly meet and mingle with other dogs, but since the leash restrains her, she gets frustrated and exhibits a sort of "tantrum." You can read about barrier frustration here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/barrier-frustration/ Differentiating one with the other may not be always easy. For instance, tail wagging can be seen as well in nervous dogs, and a compounding circumstance is the phenomenon of some dogs displaying conflicting body language when seeing other dogs. Some dogs will wag, even do a play bow with dogs only to display aggressive behaviors once the dog is closer. You are on the right path on doing distance training. You want to work with your dog under threshold:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ but also work on changing the emotional response if there is some level of stress going on. This is best done with the help of a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation of behavior modification. If the barking at other dogs is due to not being comfortable, then this may involve counterconditioning techniques such as "look at that" (which by the way, can come handy if she barks at things passing by) or "open bar/closed bar". You can read about these here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/open-bar-closed-bar/ One of my favorite uses of dog parks, is training dogs to remain calm when walking around the perimeter of the dog park. This usually is done once the dog has proven over and over for some time the ability to remain calm in distance work and well under threshold. I start with walking the dog at a distance from the perimeter when there are just a couple of dogs playing, and then, if all goes well, progress to walking when there are more dogs playing and progress to ask the dog to perform behaviors in proximity as well (sits/ downs/ stays and recalls with a slightly longer leash). Now, we need to thread with caution in your situation and really know what we are dealing with (does your dog want dogs to stay away? or does your dog want dogs to come closer, or is your dog displaying conflicting emotions?), so once the dog has been evaluated by a professional and the issues have been worked on, then we can consider perhaps starting with organizing some play dates with dogs we know have the potential for being good play mates (often, dog behavior professionals have 'teacher dogs' who are great for these initial introductions). These introductions are likely safer than putting a dog with an unknown history, with a bunch of stranger dogs who may poor social skills. Alternatively, for dogs who may not have developed yet great social skills, there are always several options to provide great outlets for pent-up energy in a structured, more productive manner such enrolling the dog in agility, flyball and dock diving events. These offer a win-win because dogs must learn to stay calm (and perform despite the distraction of other dogs around) while also releasing off some steam in a structured manner. Hope this helps! Best, Adrienne

Hello Rebeccamonchon, In cases as such, you need to work in a more controlled setting, increasing distance so to not cause your dog to get overwhelmed and lie down or stop or bark aggressively. This can be easier said than done, depending on where you live and your ability to scan the environment so to take steps to prevent her from going over threshold. You can read threshold levels here with tips on how to work under threshold: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ Once you find a distance where your dog is less reactive, you will need to use high value treats to change your dog's emotional response. I like the "look at that" method detailed below: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ Another great method is the open/bar closed bar method detailed below: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/open-bar-closed-bar/ When you see a dog at a distance coming your way that has caught you unprepared or you need more distance, you can train your dog an emergency exit as outlined here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/emergency-u-turn/ Start training this in a quiet area and then move on to areas with more distractions once the behavior becomes fluent. When dogs show reactivity/fear towards other dogs, this falls more under behavior modification rather than training (in training we train operant behaviors like "sit, lie down, stay etc) while in behavior modification we aim to change the dogs' emotional response. Both can go hand in hand as things progress (once the dog's emotional response changes, it's easier to then train the dog to heel and ignore other dogs, or sit while they walk by). Now, a disclaimer is warranted here. Since behavior modification may be challenging to implement and there are also risks for aggression directed towards the handler/other dogs/other people it's important that behavior modification is carried out under the guidance of a behavior professional for safety and correct implementation. Hope this helps!

You're very welcome. I just re-read your post though and noticed you said it's to pull open the screen door to let herself inside. Is this a type of door that remains open once pulled or shuts on its own? If it's the latter type of door, then a more optimal option may be installing a doggy door to prevent the dog from startling/possibly getting injured (think tail getting stuck). Some dogs get frightened when these door close on them (even lightly) and this has an impact on them to the point of refusing coming in and out of such doors.

Hello and welcome to the forums, Dogs may not be interested in tugging for a variety of reasons. Although tug is a natural behavior, that has been played instinctively for many generations in dogs and a dog's ancestors, some dogs just won't play tug of war. Until dogs can talk, and tell us clearly what is going into their minds, we can only make some educated guesses as to why some dogs have little interest in tug. Some dogs who have been"corrected" in the past for mouthing things may have inhibited the natural desire. Correction after correction, sensitive dogs may stop using their mouths and this may bring some considerable challenges that day we decide we want our dogs to fetch, play tug or pick up things we dropped with their mouths. Of course, this is just one possibility, but worthy of pointing out. On the other hand, some dogs are just not attracted to the game, perhaps because they had nobody to play tug with when young or are simply interested in other forms of play. Many dog breeds were selectively bred to perform certain tasks and tugging may not be ingrained strongly in their genetic makeup. For instance, herding breeds, may be more interested in chasing and "rounding up" than tugging. Other dog breeds may be interested more in playing fetch. Every dog is unique and may have his own preferences for play. Not all is lost though if your dog isn't interested in playing tug, there are several ways you can entice your dog to play tug. Tug of war is after all, a great game for dogs to play as it provides a great outlet for pent-up energy and it helps build motivation and even some teamwork skills among dogs. Tug may turn helpful as well in training dogs some complex tasks often used in service dogs such as opening a fridge, turning on a light or taking socks off, or as in your case, opening a door. Following are therefore some tips to get your dog interested in tugging. If we can get the dog interested in playing tug, it may come as a bonus for using this behavior to train other tasks such as pulling a rope to accomplish something. However, dogs who don't play tug can still be trained to tug a rope if we do so systematically. -Choose the right tug toy. Ideally,the tug to should be long enough so that there is good distance between one dog and another or between the owner's hands and the dog's mouth. On top of being long, the tug toy should be of a soft texture of it is pleasant to grasp and should obviously made of durable material. -Try some irresistible tug toys. Many dogs may be bored tugging a towel or rope, but will go bonkers if you offer them a rabbit fur woven tug. The scent of the rabbit fur will often bring to life old instincts. Just wiggle it around, watch your dog's pupils dilate in excitement and your dog should be to grasping the other end in no time (but once again, consider dogs as individuals, all dogs are different and may have different play preferences) -Enlist the help of a "tugging enthusiast." Sometimes, other dogs are the strongest teachers. If you have a friend who owns a friendly dog that is crazy for playing tug, invite him over. These dogs are good in wiggling and tossing around the tug toy and playing "keep away." A game of keep away, often ends up morphing into an enjoyable session of tug, enticing the other dog to grasp the other end of the toy and play. -If you are planning on training your dog to tug to pull open the fridge or some other trick, you need to do baby steps. Wiggle the toy a lot, and click and reward for mouthing the rope, then for tugging it a bit when you pull on it a bit providing some resistance and then for tugging it with enough force. -Start training this in a quiet area away from the door. The door may act as a "distraction" and interfere with the training. Once the dog tugs in a quiet area, we can always move closer and closer to the door until the rope is attached to it. -You can also try to train your dog to first hold onto to the rope and then back up. Backing up,means just that, taking a few steps backwards. To train this, simply start with your dog standing in front of you. Next, move towards your dog (using a tight passage such as a hallway may turn helpful as your dog has no other choice than back up). When he takes a step backward, click/treat. When your dog backs up reliably, add the verbal cue. You can then use the cue word for 'Back' when he mouths the rope further along with his training. -Be patient. Behaviors that are not typically part of a dog's behavior repertoire may take some time to develop.

Hello there! With fear of noises, counterconditioning and desensitization are often the preferred behavior modification methods. The "hear that" method can come handy, you can read about it here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/fear-noises/ With behavior modification it is important that exposure to sounds are not presented in full intensity initially. You want your dog under threshold:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ With sounds, you can muffle them by playing white noise (TV on, radio) or present recordings of the sounds played at low levels. While the "hear that' method can help when a dog is fearful of a particular sound, things get more challenging when a dog's fear of certain noises has started to generalize to other sounds to the point that a dog is fearful of almost any sound. In such cases, calming aids (supplements, pheromone plug ins and pheromone collars, Thundershirts) may be helpful, but severe cases may require medications and the intervention of a veterinary behaviorist.

Greetings! This sounds like frustration barking considering that Herbie acts friendly and given the possibility rushes to greet his pals. As Jennifer pointed out, this breed is prone to being social and has a tendency to roam, so best to ensure he cannot escape. In a social dog’s dreamland, dogs would be free to roam and greet as many other dogs and people as they want, and everybody would be friends. In a real-life scenario, though, things are very different, and dogs are walked on leashes to keep everyone safe and out of trouble. This may lead to barrier frustration in dogs who are eager to go meet every dog or person they see, but find themselves restrained by a leash or fence. The result is a big barking explosion, a dog’s version of a toddler’s tantrum, which can even make your dog seem aggressive. Yet those who know your dog well know for a fact that he is the friendliest pooch on earth who plays well with other dogs and is eager to make friends. Here's a read on barrier frustration: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/barrier-frustration/ In such a case, as suggested, you can work with your dog in getting your dog to sit as he sees another dog, but if he struggles with that you can try plain "look at that" exercises and then incorporate a sit once he gains better impulse control. You can find the "look at that exercise" here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ Make sure to watch for signs your dog is over threshold so to prevent an inability to respond and too many setbacks. Increasing distance is often needed at first. Here's a read on thresholds: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ Here is a general read on how to train more impulse control and frustration tolerance in dogs: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/impulse-control-frustration-tolerance/ Since your dog is an adolescent, here's what to expect during these challenging times: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/ It's best not to leave him on lead unsupervised (is he tied up?), as that encourages rehearsal of the problem behavior (the more your dog barks and is able to get loose from the lead, the more these behaviors put roots and become more difficult to work on). If possible, invite him in the tent or to stick nearby you on leash. When you cannot supervise, if possible, provide a safe area where he can be restrained without having visual access to other dogs (crate, if he is used to being in one with a stuffed Kong to keep busy) And of course, exercise and mental stimulation can help him stay a bit calmer as too much un-channeled energy may lead to problematic behaviors. Samoyeds thrive on activities so the more the better! Hope this helps, happy camping!

LOL, I take no offense, as I know this is true for several dog trainers. A dog trainer I worked with during dog training school was suggesting bringing a whole package of 6 hot dogs and cutting them up in pieces. I wasn't surprised when some of his clients reported they had to stop because their dogs developed massive diarrhea after class! There are some ways around this and my favorite is to mix kibble with some cut hot dogs (or some other stinky treats like freeze dried tripe or liver for dogs sold in pet stores) and letting the kibble soak the flavor overnight in the fridge. Many dogs can learn to enjoy and work for their kibble when training indoors. The kibble becomes more valuable since they get to work for it. Since an average bowl of kibble has likely at least 50-60 pieces that means you have lots of opportunities to reward desired behaviors. If you toss the kibble on the floor to reward, dogs even get a kick trying to catch it. If your dog can be trained with kibble, you are at a great advantage. Outdoors, you may need to increase the value of treats, and that's when the hot dog trick may come handy. You can even remove the hot dog if you don't want to feed people food. By next day, the aroma of the hot dog should have invaded the kibble. Another strategy is giving very small pieces of treats. Often dog owners are surprised when I ask them to give me the treat they have in their hands and break them into several small pieces. I then use each piece to reward one behavior (in general the only exception is the recall, where I will give several pieces in a row to leave a strong impact). However, it's important to not get stingy with treats and use of people foods especially when it comes to behavior modification, especially serious issues. Dogs that need all the help they need to overcome fears, obsessions or phobias or who are at risk of being rehomed, in this case we want to be armed with the highest value foods and we need to be generous. We can then always work on weaning them off gradually later on, once we have accomplished the main goals and the dog's emotional well-being and a state of physiological homeostasis is restored. The issue of begging for food is unlikely to happen when feeding people foods for training if care is taken to follow rules. First of all, training dogs to lie on a mat during owners' meal times, can help establish good manners and prevent begging. Here is how to train a dog to lie on a mat: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ If not training on mat, one can also train an invisible boundary. It can start by tying a cord from one side to another of a room at the height of the dog's chest and reminding the dog to not surpass it (using an "off" cue and body language/movement towards the dog to remind him to back off). Then the cord can be placed on the ground and then the cord can be removed once the dog grasps the idea. Dogs learn to lie down behind this invisible boundary in this area during meal times. Other than using treats, dogs can be trained with life rewards. All that is needed is finding things that dogs find pleasurable, and using those to our advantage. For instance, hounds and small terriers love to go outside to explore and sniff the yard, so why not ask for a lovely sit by the door and then marking that and rewarding by opening the door? Dogs who love to go on walks, can be taught to sit before putting on the collar. And dogs who love toys, can be taught lots of obedience cues using a flirt pole or a squeaky/furry toys tossed in the air to reinforce sits, downs and leave its. Since you mention that she acts hungry in the evening and starts hunting for food and since she is a mix of many serious breeds who thrive on working, perhaps she may enjoy working/scavenging for her meals? How about doing a treasure hunt game https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-treasure-hunt/ or this version with a twist https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/case-studies/01-sadie-treasure-hunt/ or filling a Kong Wobbler with her kibble? Or doing a muffin game? https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-muffin-game/ You can incorporate training in these games such as asking your dog to hold a sit stay or down stay while you hide the treats for the treasure hunt game or prepare the muffin game. You can then release your dog to enjoy the activity. Finally, even though it may happen that some dogs may go on food strikes if they are given too many treats, something to consider is also checking with the vet if a dog appears to not be eating her meals with appetite. It sounds like prior to training, she was already a bit finicky, refusing to eat her third meal? This may not be your case, but always worthy of pointing out. Many dogs would readily accept a third meal if given by mistake, and I know many dogs (mine included) who would have even eaten the whole bag of food given the opportunity. So you might be dealing with a finicky dog or perhaps there may be some underlying digestive issue or metabolic issue at play. Also, check that you are feeding the right amount. It is easy to overfeed dogs with kibble, especially the smaller ones who get filled up quite quickly. You can also consult with your vet and ask precisely how much food you can reduce to make up for the added calories of treats or ask for help in finding treats that are very low calorie and that don't fill up your dog too much. Your vet can also recommend a diet change if your dog's current diet is not very enticing to your dog. Some diets may be blah.. somewhat bland tasting especially if there are lots of fillers (grains, corns, flours) and little protein (meats/fish).

Good to hear you have seen some progress! I hear you though. Non-compliant spouses/family members can sometimes put a dent in progress if they aren't on board with applying the same training methods. However, they benefit from some positive reinforcement too! Praising them and being appreciative for the effort is always good. If he has given her attention in the past when she was jumping, and now if following your advice to ignore, you may be seeing some extinction bursts. Extinction bursts take place when dogs were reinforced for behaviors in the past and now are no longer gaining reinforcement. It's like buying candy to a child every time one goes grocery shopping and then deciding to stop cold turkey (perhaps because the dentist says the child has too many cavities). The child will cry and throw a tantrum the first days, but then eventually will come to accept the new rule. If your hubby won't acknowledge her once she's with four on the floor, you can always mark and reward it as soon as it happens so to not miss the opportunity to reinforce that lovely sit.

At 11 months, your dog is at the peak time of doggy adolescence. This is a trying time for many dog owners, but fortunately, there are many ways to tackle it. Here is a read on doggy adolescence: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/ If there are peak times when you notice your dog starts to play keep away or tries to nip when you are on the couch, it may help to provide some interactive solutions to keep him occupied. How about tiring him out in the yard, taking him on a walk or filling a Kong Wobbler with a portion of his daily ration just prior? Many dogs who want to play keep away or start nipping when owners sit on the couch are just trying to communicate a need for attention and desire for more interaction. In many cases, these behaviors occur when owners come home from work. Often, providing them with some activity before sitting on the couch and also during (like making a new habit of sitting on the couch and asking the dog to go to his mat to enjoy a stuffed Kong or emptying a Kong wobbler may help). However, (and this may be your case) some dogs may be cranky and tired, but they just never know how to stop. These dogs often receive enough exercise and mental stimulation but they remain overstimulated and don't know how to turn off their "on" button. These dogs can be helped by crating them next to the couch and providing them with a safe chew toy or a stuffed Kong to keep busy until they eventually fall asleep. Covering the crate with a blanket may help some dogs if they tend to sleep lightly or have a hard time falling asleep because they are so attentive to their owner's minimum movements.

More than not obeying after training, I am thinking Mac is struggling with applying what he has learned in other contexts. Many dogs learn fairly easily to leave and drop items they may have not much interest in and in a controlled training setting, but they may struggle when they have access to items they find particularly valuable or in contexts where they are overstimulated. This is very normal, and the more we train around distractions and in certain contexts, the more the dog learns to apply what he has learned in those contexts. However, it's important to do so gradually. So let's say for instance that Mac has learned to drop a ball, we then want to the start applying the training to other items of interest as well so to generalize the training to other items. It might be a good idea to change the rules of the game though. When Mac grabs something, how about you moving away and having Mac come to you for a tasty treat given in exchange for dropping? It may be worthy for the purpose of practicing, setting up some "cold trials," leaving around only toys that cannot be swallowed in one setting and that are considered difficult to destroy for safety. To further help set your dog for success, it also helps to initially start limiting the training to only one room so that he cannot gain access to any other items. Toys that may be difficult to destroy and swallow in one setting may include Kongs, Nylabones, Goughuts and West Paw Zogoflex Tux toys. Now, practicing with brand new toys is difficult because they are considered very valuable, but if your dog has access to some of these toys most of the time, they should be easy to practice "drop its" with. And if you do happen to purchase new toys, you can use them to practice "drop its" by asking your dog to drop a toy that he has had most of the time and presenting the new toy you have hidden behind your back in exchange. Now, the value of the treat is important. It has to greatly surpass the value of the item and the value of playing keep away. Things can get challenging with dogs who get upset tummies though. There are treats for dogs with upset tummies that may help (such as some made with pumpkin, banana or oatmeal or there are "tummy treats" that offer probiotics). If you do a simple search on Amazon such as "dog digestive treats," you may find some, but ask your vet for help to play it safe. If we are using kibble, to trade, how about rather than offering just one piece, tossing several in different directions in a fun, "catch the kibble" game? or presenting his filled up bowl (that you have prepared in advance purposely for the training?). Training how to play "hide and seek" can turn out helpful for dogs used to playing "keep away." If we make the game extra rewarding, we can use it to our advantage to "change the rules of the game" and apply it as needed in specific contexts. So when the dog grabs and item, rather than chasing the dog, we can try rushing the opposite direction, disappear from view and say something in an excited, fun tone to initiate searching, and then once the dog reaches us, we can ask a "drop it" to provide a super rewarding reward. Some dogs are so enthusiastic to play the game, they just happen to drop the item even prior to start looking for the owner so eventually there's no need to say 'drop it" in the first place! Here is a link to how to teach the game of hide and seek: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/hide-and-seek/ Here are some other tips/ideas: -One word of caution on the drop it command: you need to do refresher sessions every now and then to keep it from getting rusty. Also, consider that a drop it command is important, but so is the leave it command. -Ideally, it would therefore be better to train a dog to "leave it" rather than "drop it." If we can interrupt the behavior before it occurs and reward that greatly, we may break the whole behavior chain of grabbing something and taking off. -Since many dogs who want to play keep away, do so to engage their owners and get them to pay attention to them, it's important to provide lots of exercise and brain games during the day. -With management (not leaving around items that can be torn apart), no longer running after the dog, providing only safer toys and lots of practice and increased mental stimulation and training, we should see a decrease in the need to want to play the keep away game. -One important caveat to keep in mind: many dogs like to play the keep away game, but some dogs aren't really playing or some dogs may be playing until they get ahold of something really valuable and things then turn serious. These dogs have a serious intent to grab the stolen item and keep it out of your reach. Keep-away may start as an innocent game but some dogs may become more and more protective especially if you manage to remove the item from them over and over. One day, a dog may just run off with the item, the next he may be growling and baring his teeth to tell you off. Please be careful! Trying to grab the item back may be dangerous and things get worse when employing aversion-based methods such as scolding the dog and grabbing his mouth to remove the item. So this warrants a disclaimer. Disclaimer: Behavior modification comes with risks. If your dog ever shows or has ever shown aggressive displays towards you in the past, please report to a dog behavior professional using force-free methods

Hello Cammidge, what have you tried so far to tackle the jumping and biting? Did you read through the several links Jennifer provided? (you should have found several tips throughout). We are here if you need any help in troubleshooting any problems. Is the behavior getting better or worse? What is your trainer suggesting to do to help out on these issues? Puppies can be a handful, but fortunately, most pups outgrow these issues as they gain more impulse control and mature, but not without providing mental stimulation, repetition and training (and recognizing when pups are getting overstimulated or need a nap).

It can be an excited way to demonstrate affection as Victoria Stillwell points out and often seen when dogs come to say hello and greet, but most dogs after greeting calm down and the behavior tones down and stops. However, one must observe the context in which it happens. If it happens in contexts when your child gets moving and a little more hyper it may be her way to try to get her to "calm down" but only close observation of her body language and what seems to happen before and after the behavior can reveal better insights, but sometimes it's far easier just redirecting the behavior than wondering exactly what may trigger it as we may never really know exactly what is going on in the dog's mind. It may be possible that during the false pregnancy and its associated hormonal changes she may developed a strong attachment that persisted. Is your dog spayed now? Jack Russell terriers as you may already know need a lot of mental stimulation and can get quite persistent in some behaviors, so perhaps she may be bored too and paying attention to your child and her movements, may have become her new "hobby" to keep occupied. While all dogs need exercise and mental stimulation, this dynamic breed needs this to a deeper level, as these dogs have strong drives to hunt and explore, so definitely try out many brain games so to provide alternate outlets to performing undesirable behaviors. These dogs thrive when given activities that challenge their minds so they also benefit from agility training (obstacle course) and fun doggy sports such as flyball, or "earthdog" trials. It sounds like your dog enjoys the sitting and petting/attention from you until your child "activates" doing something that motivates your dog to go on "face licking duty." Here we may therefore need to find something that can be more reinforcing to her so to stop her in her tracks and promptly return to you and make an alternate choice. Of course, hand targeting is only one method to interrupt behavior. You can also train her to respond to a smacking sound you make with your mouth that tells her to stop in her tracks (before engaging in the undesirable behavior) and you can reward that with a treat. The more we succeed in preventing the behavior and reward the alternate behavior, the more the dog will decide to make good choices. Important is to do as much as possible to prevent rehearsal of the behavior as it's easy to re-establish even once there is improvement, hence the importance of separation when not there to redirect as needed. I know this article below is more for dogs who are a bit reactive to the novelty of seeing babies crawling, but the same exercises can be tried to redirect your dog from face licking while keeping your dog busy with training and hence giving mental stimulation. If your dog's behavior is triggered by underlying anxiety (shaking can be sign of anxiety, but also excessive arousal), then desensitization and counterconditioning exercises with the help of a professional may be needed. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/get-dog-used-crawling-baby/

Although I like the idea of clicking for ignoring her, there may be some drawbacks with this method. For instance, when she is clicked for ignoring, that often means that she will be rehearsing the licking behavior for some trials until she understands what grants the click. Also, 'ignoring' is a bit vague as a set criteria and the dog may not fully understand what is expected. There may be risks of establishing a "behavior chain" of the dog learning to lick the child, then walk away/ignore to generate the click and reward. Such behavior chains once established may be difficult to eradicate. However, done well and with correct timing, it is possible to see a reduction in the face licking behavior over time. Here are some other options: My favorite method is training a replacement behavior for the licking and a great one is hand targeting which you can find how to train it here:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/targeting/ Train it away from your toddler and make sure you have a strong response. Make sure to put the behavior on cue. Say the verbal cue "target" right before you present your open hand. Click and reward. Repeat several times. Make the behavior become very solid. Next, ask your dog to "target" your hand with your child at a distance (like visible and behind a baby gate) and then closer to the child with a long leash on. Then, progress to off leash. The moment you notice her intent to go lick your child's face, ask her to target your hand instead. Always be there ready to intervene. Make sure you heavily reward the hand targeting behavior and you'll see this new, replacement behavior more and more, and the face-licking less and less. Eventually, you should see an increase in hand targeting and decreased interest in face licking if you use high enough value treats. You should then reach a point where you can ask your dog to target your hand and then reward with a long -lasting treat (like a stuffed Kong or a Kong Wobbler filled with a portion of your dog's daily meal ration) to consume at a distance from the child always under direct supervision (do this only if your dog isn't prone to resource guarding. Always best to keep child and dog separated during meals for safety as resource guarding may start in a dog without it if the dog feels uncomfortable in the presence of a child during meals). Here are some other tips. -Set your dog for success. Keep your child's facial area as clean as possible. If your child smells like a jar of peanut butter or jam your dog will be unable to resist licking the face. -Consider that the more your dog gets to rehearse the face-licking behavior, the more it puts roots. Catch the behavior before it occurs and prevent it from happening. -Manage the situation. When you cannot actively supervise your dog and child, keep your dog in a separate area so she can't engage in the problematic behavior. -If your child engages in behaviors that your dog may find worrisome, provide a comfortable place for your dog to not feel overwhelmed. -Watch your dog's body language for clues that she is uncomfortable and barely tolerating things. If you see your licking, yawning, turning her head, and scrolling her fur during or after an interaction, your dog is likely sending out stress signals and she might lose it one day if you don’t take action. -Play it safe and have a dog behavior consultant using force-free methods assess your dog to determine what may be triggering the excessive face licking and for the purpose establishing the most appropriate methods based on in-person observations. -Provide your dog with brain games and interactive toys so to create a strong interest in these activities and possibly make your child's facial area less salient.

Hello and welcome to the forums, Dogs lick baby faces or toddler faces for various reasons, but a very common reason is that babies and toddlers are messy eaters and they taste good. Indeed, what may look like an endearing act is often more of an opportunistic one, with the dog enjoying licking up the remains of baby food or Spaghetti-Os sauce found in the corner of the child's mouth! However, dog behaviors can occur for various reasons so there could also be several other factors to consider when dogs get obsessed about licking toddler faces. Licking behaviors are instinctive meaning that dogs don't need to learn to do this behavior because it comes natural to them. Mother dog communicates with her puppies through licking right after birth. She cleans her pups from the birth fluids and then she will lick her pups to stimulate them to eliminate until they are older and capable of eliminating on their own. Although this may sound repulsive, it's an adaptive behavior considering that it helps keep the den clean which means it won't attract predators. As the puppies grow and are weaned from mother's milk, they will instinctively lick around the mother's mouth in hopes of her regurgitating. Once again, this may sound repulsive, but it makes sense considering that in the wild, pups need a transition period between consuming mother's milk and eating meat. Also, since it's impractical for mother dog to carry meat from the outside to the den, it's much easier for her to just consume the meal, and then once back to the den, regurgitate for her pups. As puppies mature, they then use licking behaviors out of instinct. Indeed, you will often see dogs licking other dogs, adult people, toddlers and babies. Dog trainer Victoria Stillwell explains that licking behaviors in dogs directed towards humans is a submissive gesture, and often a sign of affection. She also adds that licking releases endorphins which gives dogs a feeling of comfort and pleasure which helps relieve stress. Just something worthy of pointing out. A word of caution though is needed when it comes to dogs who like to lick faces, in particular the faces of babies, toddlers and children. Not all doggy "kisses" are created equal. In some cases, certain types of face licking are not the affectionate kisses we interpret but are actually meant to put some distance. The face licking with the dog extending the neck, may therefore be a distance-increasing behavior that may be seen in dogs who are not comfortable with a certain situation and possibly even anxious. Since you mention that this tends to happen in particular when your child runs, shouts or bends over, this may be your dog's attempt to make her stop or calm her down. Jennifer Shryock, a Certified Dog Behavior Consultant (CDBC) who specializes in educating parents and creator of the "Dogs and Storks" program, calls this type of kiss, a “Kiss to Dismiss,” and describes it as a way for dogs to get someone who's making them uncomfortable (or is pestering them) to go away. Patricia McConnell describes it as "reminiscent of a behavior I’ve called “aggressively obsequious." It is possible that some dogs may lick as an alternate, displacement behavior to biting. These dogs may have learned that nipping was not acceptable behavior and therefore they have replaced it with excessive licking. Some professionals refer to this form of licking as a "sublimated bite," in other words, a bite that is so strongly inhibited it morphs into licking with no tooth contact. Sometimes dogs resort to licking as a way to get a human or other dog to move away or relinquish something. A dog may therefore lick the face of a toddler if he wants the toy the toddler has or he wants to lay down on the pillow the toddler is laying down on. Of course, not all dogs are prone to having face licking under the form of manipulative behaviors in their repertoire of tricks, but it's something perhaps worthy of pointing out. A dog may therefore lick in the solicitation of resources just as puppies licked the corners of their mother's mouths as a precursor to feeding, points out veterinarian Dr. Patty Khuly. Face licking behaviors are often maintained by reinforcement. Dogs tend to repeat behaviors that generate some type of reinforcement, which strengthens their behavior allowing it to persist. What type of reinforcement may dogs gain from licking a baby's' or toddlers' face? As already mentioned, babies and toddlers are messy eaters. They often have slimy food remnants often around their mouths or some trace of sugar on their lips from eating sweets. Dogs find licking these remnants irresistible and these findings maintain the face-licking behavior. On top of this, dogs are attracted to licking faces and human skin in general because of the presence of salt. Behaviors in dogs though aren't always reinforced by food or other tasty things. Some dogs find face licking as a good way to get attention. If every time your dog licks your baby, you look at your dog (who perhaps feels a bit neglected due to the baby getting all the attention) he may soon learn that licking your baby gets you to look at him, talk to him or touch him. When a dog feels neglected, any form of attention can be perceived as reinforcing. Even attention of the negative type. So giving your dog a stern look, scolding him or pushing him away, may be ultimately reinforcing the face-licking behavior. As seen, dogs licking the face of babies, toddlers or children may do so for various reasons. Often, the best way to determine the underlying cause is by having a dog behavior professional come to the home and assess the dog and her behavior. On top of being a potentially annoying behavior, especially when excessive, and possibly, indicative of underlying anxiety, a dog licking the face of a baby or toddler can be potentially unhygienic. Dog mouths contain lots of bacteria. One doesn't know what the dog licked or ate just prior to licking. So how to address such an issue? I will point out some tips in the next post.

Thanks for the update! It is greatly appreciated. Keep us posted on your continued progress and feel free to post any further questions.

So sorry to hear about this setback. It's always upsetting when this happens. Perhaps this is some treat that Momo finds super highly valuable and this has therefore brought up a new challenge, or who knows, even though he may look chill despite the fireworks, he may have been a bit stressed, and this has triggered an escalation, lowering his reactivity threshold upon feeling something brush against his fur. And then, as a compounding factor you may just have that "tension" upon eating a special treat, where a dog may never be able to totally relax in fear of losing his valuable. Just a few days ago, Facebook brought up a picture of Einstein and Petra watching the fireworks out of a window several years back and the caption was " Happy 4th of July! Hope everyone's dogs coped well. Petra and Einstein "enjoyed" the firework display and were waiting for their favorite treats. " I had worked some days in advance by giving a high value treat for every 'booming sound" when my neighbor fired some fireworks and I thought I had things down pat for the big day because I got a conditioned emotional response to the sound after a few trials and we had practiced before. However, I kept looking at the picture. Were my dogs really "enjoying" the fireworks? I zoomed in and looked and noticed that Einstein had the corners of his lips pulled back in tense way and Petra had a spatulate tongue. At a distance, it looked like they were copying fairly well, but at a closer look, they were likely somewhat stressed as we had moved to the city and never had fireworks at such a close distance and we failed to work at fireworks at that level. Your post also brings me back to a day of apprenticeship back in training school when our instructor challenged us with a quiz. I can't recall the exact wording but he told us something along these lines: "What's one way a dog with a biting history can be taken back to the time when it just growled without biting?" We thought long and hard. I then sheepishly suggested: "by tying the dog to a pole and moving away every time he barks/growls?" Bingo, that answer was correct, although he thought keeping the dog behind a fence and moving away was a safer option. Although, back then, I would never encourage this method as the only treatment option for rehabilitation due to the unpredictable nature of canine aggression (who can say the dog will never bite again just because the growling is reinforced by giving the dog distance, what if the dog is cornered, stressed or feeling ill?), it is good that Momo in this instance exhibited restraint and chose to use "his words" versus biting. I know of many dogs who would have chosen to bite when startled this way, especially if they had no time to see whether it was their owner or another dog touching them in the middle of a meal. Resource guarding is one of the most challenging issues to face. I hope your trainer pointed this out. It requires lots of management and "Cold Trials" using desensitization and counterconditioning so to generate a conditioned emotional response to our proximity when dogs have a resource, in hopes that at a minimum, some day, when we are caught unprepared, the dog will not react. However, we can never be entirely prepared as there are so many variables that cannot be entirely under our control. Setbacks can always happen and management is always the safest option. However, one of the biggest challenges when dealing with behavior issues is when we measure behavior and stay a long time with no incidents and get a false sense of security (and this happens to dog behavior consultants as well!). I tend to think of a dog prone to resource guarding as a dog equipped with an internal spark. Do nothing about the behavior and when enough triggers happen and enough circuits connect, the spark will ignite quickly into a fire and you will see a full blast of barking/lunging/growling and even biting. Work on the behavior, and you may reduce the number of fires and eventually extinguish some. Sure, we scan the environment and read our dogs turning us into good smoke detecting experts that manage situations before they escalate, however, that spark may always be there and we can never be entirely prepared as there are variables that may not always be under control.

Jennifer provided some great info. I am posting an article about flirt poles I wrote a while back, let us know if you have any further questions! Among the many toys and gadgets purposely crafted for a dog's entertainment, the flirt pole deserves a spot of honor as it can provide loads of fun and allows a great outlet for dogs who like to chase things. Not many stores are equipped with flirt poles, but they are becoming more and more popular as more and more dog trainers are suggesting them for dogs in need of expressing their prey drive in a non-destructive way. Since flirt poles increase exercise, they benefit dogs in many ways such as improving their balance and motor skills and strengthening those joints and muscles. Introducing the Flirt Pole Also known as "flirt stick," a flirt pole can be described as the giant version of a classical cat toy where feathers are attached to a string to entice lazy kitties to play. This comparison after all, is not too bad, considering that the purpose is the same: to coax the animal to chase a fast moving object. A flirt pole though is a tad bit different. It's best described as a pole made out of light wood or plastic with a lure attached at the end, quite similar in appearance to a fishing pole, only that unlike a fishing pole, the string cannot be retracted. The lure attached at the end usually consists of a toy, but can also be a rag, pieces of fleece or an animal's hide. Uses for Flirt Poles Flirt poles can be used in different ways. The lure can be dragged on the ground to stimulate a dog to chase it around. The owner may stand still in one spot and move the lure snapping the pole around erratically, or by swinging the pole higher, the owner can entice the dog to jump in an effort to catch the lure, but be careful though, as this can hurt the dog's joints, especially in young dogs who are developing. Always talk to your vet first before engaging your dog in jumping activities and high-impact sports. A warm-up period is recommended to prevent muscle sprains. Here are some ideas on how to use the flirt pole. -Flirt poles may come handy for puppies and young dogs who have lots of energy and live in small places. Make sure the area is clear of anything that can be knocked over. -Flirt poles can provide an alternative to chasing squirrels or wildlife. -It can make a fun rainy-day activity for bored, under stimulated dogs. -A flirt pole can be also used as a way to improve a dog's performance in certain doggy sports. -Does your dog have too much energy on walks? Use a flirt pole to tire him out before a walk. -Use it to train toy-motivated dogs by allowing them to play with it after performing a wanted behavior. -Dogs can be taught to catch and release the lure on cue as done with tug toys. Praise your dog for catching and then ask to release. Then, resume the game. If you wish to attain better impulse control you can ask a dog to sit or lie down before resuming the game.. -Use a flirt pole to work on the "stay" cue, "leave it" or "drop it" cue to improve your dog's obedience training. -Keep it handy on walks, when you need to distract your dog from something that he focuses too much on. A Word of Caution Laser pointers, special gadgets that emit a small red dot of light that dogs chase around, have been known for causing obsessive behaviors in dogs. A main problem with laser toys is that they stimulate a dog's nervous system triggering the chasing instinct, but since dogs never get a chance to physically catch the red dot, they never get a sense of closure and this can cause obsessive behaviors to put roots. "I've seen light chasing as a pathology where they will just constantly chase around a light or shadow and pounce upon it. They just spend their whole lives wishing and waiting," explains Nicholas Dodman, veterinary behaviorist and professor at Tufts University Cummings School of Veterinary Medicine. Flirt poles, on the other hand, are a preferable option as the dog actually is given the opportunity to interact with and catch the object at the end of the pole. It's therefore important to allow the dog to eventually catch the lure and play with it every now and then, something dogs cherish doing since they ultimately never get to catch those squirrels in yard (hopefully)! Did you know? Trainers of bomb and drug sniffing dogs know for a fact that fruitless searches where they never get to find anything may overtime cause them to become mentally drained. To prevent this mental fatigue from interfering with their jobs, trainers must occasionally take their dogs on dummy missions where they finally get to find something and are rewarded for it. DIY Flirt Pole For Dogs For those who like to hand craft their own things, a flirt pole can make an easy Do-It-Yourself project. Simply arm yourself with about 3 feet of PVC pipe and thread an 8 feet long rope through it making a double knot so that it doesn't slide out of the pipe. Next, securely tie a toy such as a small stuffed animal at the end of the rope and you're done! Don't feel like making a flirt pole yourself? No worries, if your local pet shop doesn't stock them, you can always find them in many online stores today who can deliver it straight to your door. Did you know? Play behaviors which include elements from predatory behavior activate a dog's endogenous reward system, explains Mechtild Käufe in the book "Canine Play Behavior: The Science Of Dogs At Play."

Yes, this is a good way to teach pups to be gentle with their mouths and being reinforced for that. I like to call it "gentleness pays." It is also covered here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/train-dog-take-treats-gently/ and here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/ and here is 'take' and 'leave it https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/

Hello, and welcome to the forums, These are all excellent questions! The answer is not very easy though because there are several factors and variables to keep into consideration. Question 1: The "ouch" method tends to generally mostly work for mild cases of nipping and must be applied with perfect timing, and by providing clarity and consistency and clear consequences; so kudos to you for being patient and very clear in your communication with your pup! If the 'ouch" method is working for you, however doesn't necessarily mean it will work when applied to other people. There may be several factors at play. For instance, it may work if your pup generalizes well the behavior of stopping nipping being contingent upon hearing the verbal marker"ouch" followed by withdrawal from play/social interaction. If your pup is capable of generalizing this to other people it may very well work as well, however, it takes "two to tango' meaning that to help your pup generalize the behavior, the people must apply the same timing, a similar tone of voice in delivering the "ouch" and the same consequences (withdrawal from play/ interaction). Also, your pup must be capable of responding to the level of distraction involved with seeing new people/ having guests over. Many pups are over threshold when seeing people, and may lose a bit of their inhibition when those arousal levels are too high, however, it is also true though that some pups are more tentative in approaching people, so this may work a bit in your favor, depending on your pup's temperament. It may take some coaching the people beforehand providing them with clear instructions on what to do if your pup happens to nip. So the ouch approach may or may not work, based on some of these variables. It can be worth a try, but if it doesn't seem to work well for a number of times, then, it may be a good idea to move onto some different methods. For puppy nipping, differential reinforcement of alternate behaviors can be applied. In this case, we are rewarding behaviors that are alternate to the nipping behavior. For instance, training your pup to sit for a treat or target the hands of people can be examples of behaviors that are alternatives to nipping. This latter works particularly well because it's fairly easy to teach and it teaches the pup a different, more productive way to interact with people's hands. Here is where to find how to train targeting: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/targeting/ Question 2: It makes sense to apply the "ouch' technique for nipping directed at clothing such as shoes and/or the pulling and tugging at pant legs and clothes, but it is not 100 percent clear if pups understand that under such clothing there is human skin (at least when they are very young pups who lack impulse control and are very determined to play and super aroused). To pups, they may just perceive feet and legs covered with clothing as fun tug toys that move (the more they move, the better!), they may therefore not focus much on what hides underneath. There may also be variables and compounding factors such as the clothing material that may be thick one day, thinner the next, or there may be folds in clothing, which may impact how the pup perceives how much pressure he is exerting and impacts his ability to gauge the force of his jaws. The "ouch" mostly teaches pups that human skin is super sensitive leading to withdrawal from play/social interaction which should send the message that less pressure should be applied. With this in mind, the ouch may or may not work, depending on some variables as well. It may be worthy of a try if your pup has learned that "ouch" means that withdrawal from play/social interaction soon follows, and he has a clear understanding of when his teeth touch skin under the clothing. This level of sensitivity tends to come with age. So once again, if the pup seems to be capable of generalizing well the "ouch" as a response to biting hard on bare skin, to the feeling of his teeth touching skin under clothing, then by all means, it can be used effectively. However, if the pup seems to struggle with understanding this, then it may be more productive trying alternative methods, and once again, this often entails rewarding alternate behaviors and providing redirection. Here are some general tips for pups who nip clothing: -Try redirection using high-value toys. Trying to redirect using a regular toy that likely your puppy has always access to can be rather boring compared to your clothes she can play tug with. Instead, try walking in the room when you expect him to come towards you to nip, and as soon as she is close to you,freeze (become motionless)and offer him a stuffed Kong (Kong toy stuffed with smelly goodies like peanut butter and dog cookies), rather than just a regular toy. This should occupy him for long enough for you to walk away. A Kong Wobbler/ Buster Cube filled with a portion of his daily allowance of kibble can also come handy once he learns how to get the kibble out. - You can also try to engage him with toys that add movement into the game such as a tennis ball tossed in the opposite direction (make it extra fun!) or a flirt pole (stick with a stuffed animal attached one end). The goal is to find a way to make these toys much more interesting, rewarding and fun to interact with than your bodies or clothes. -You can also encourage some fun games that are also rewarding. Here are some fun ones: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/ -Training a replacement behavior can also come handy. You can once again try with Targeting, which is explained in the Brain Games sections of the course. Since he's still young, you can teach him to target a target stick or long wooden spoon you can carry when you walk so that you can keep his focus off your clothes but on the wooden spoon instead. - You can teach him to do some attention heeling inside the home (no leash needed), if he can stay so focused on your clothes, he can eventually be taught to stay focused on your eyes if you make the activity rewarding. Every time he makes eye contact with you, toss a treat across the room so that he gets a workout too. Now, with the short attention span of puppies, don't expect to get long attention, but just a quick glance works for now. After several reps, he should approach you to make eye contact in exchange for a tossed treat, rather than focus on your clothes. - Ask him to sit when you see her approaching you and reward by tossing a treat away. Do this as often as needed. You should see an increase in the sitting behavior and a decrease in the clothing nipping behavior overtime. -Remember that learning (of good and bad behaviors) always takes place in all your interactions with your puppy. You may find it helpful to carry a treat bag filled with some kibble on you at all times so to provide opportunities to make good choices. This for the most part initially until you puppy learns to seek alternate forms of entertainment. -Make sure you provide outlets for pent-up energy. Games, training, exercise and opportunities for socialization should wear him out and provide outlets for his basic needs. With brain games that allow him to chase things and get rewards out of them (like kibble out of a bottle or a Kong Wobbler) he should seek them more and more which can turn your clothes pretty boring after a while because he gets more out of these activities when he's bored. -Also remember that puppies need to sleep too. Sometimes, when they are super nippy, they just may be cranky and in need of a nap. Give a pleasant time-out in a crate with chew toy. Chewing should relax him and make him likely to sleep. You may have to try several of these and see what works best. Redirection to a rewarding treat-dispensing toy or game that uses treats should be quite easy at this age. Teaching an alternate behavior is too important because dogs cannot misbehave if they are busy making eye contact or sitting! It may take a bit of time though to teach these alternate behaviors fluently but it is sure worth the time and effort. By providing outlets for her energy and needs for mental stimulation and reinforcing appropriate behaviors, you should eventually start seeing a decrease in the nipping behavior. Keep track of it so to measure whether things are getting better with time. I hope this helps, Good luck! Adrienne

Hello Sawah3, Welcome to the forums! Many dogs are this way and this can happen due to various reasons. Possibilities that come to mind is that he may get overstimulated and distracted by all the scents, sights and sounds associated with the outdoors. He may therefore temporarily "forget." However, sometimes, it can also be a matter of the pup being a bit uncomfortable of his surroundings. When a dog is nervous about his surroundings, he may inhibit his need to eliminate. For instance, placing a dog scared of noises in a balcony where construction workers across the street and causing a cacophony of loud noises, will likely cause the dog to at least feel uncomfortable. Elimination won't just happen right away in this case! Here are some tips/ideas: -Make sure your dog has a safe, quiet place to eliminate where he feels safe. If your dog refuses to pee/poop in your yard, but then eliminates the moment he comes in the house, evaluate if there's something in your yard that worries him. It could be he's nervous about those barking neighbor dogs or that he just needs to sniff and feel safe about his surroundings before going. -Stick to a feeding schedule. When your dog is fed on a predictable schedule, his poop may come out predictably at the same times every day as well. This is why it's so important for young puppies to adhere to a strict puppy feeding schedule, so you can predict when you can take your puppy out to eliminate.So if you take your dog out at the same time every day and he doesn't go, perhaps you want to try taking him out a bit later, when his need is a bit more urgent and he is less likely of making you lose time. In such a case though, make sure you gradually increase the time and keep an eye on your dog if he isn't housebroken yet; he may anticipate you and leave a little present on your favorite rug. -Keep track of your dog's elimination times. If you take your pup out every day at 8 am to eliminate, and he eliminates at say 5:45, try taking him out the next day at 5:20, then at 5;30 and then at 5:45. Keep a chart on his progress so you can track his progress and watch for setbacks. Keeping him crated until then can help reduce accidents. -Walk your puppy. It's a known fact that movement increases motility. Walking your puppy on leash may keep your puppy from wandering and getting distracted. Go on a nice walk and bring along some poop bags with you. -Reward your pup for eliminating by using high-value treats. Treat after treat, your pup learns that great things happen when he eliminates so he'll be eager to get that pee/poop going just to get the treat. Make sure you keep your treats hidden in a pocket though, as the sight of a treat may distract him. Wait for him to finish eliminating and then say "good boy" and hand him the treat. - Train your pup to potty on command. This can be really a great way to expedite the process and will help dogs generalize the potty area. By the time winter is around the corner, you'll likely have a dog who goes potty as soon as you pronounce the command. Here's a guide on how to train this: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/potty-on-command/

Yes, haltis can take some time to adjust to and require an adjustment period with lots of conditioning. Some dogs never really get used to them while others habituate to it if introduced correctly. They need to be fitted correctly and once put on correctly it resembles the letter "V" rather than the letter "L." The halti should not rub against the eye area; rather, it should be resting near the nose, away from the eyes. Some haltis offer a more comfortable fit, courtesy of padding over the nose area. The Canny Collar is a model that should reduce the risks for neck or spine injuries in dogs who tend to lunge strongly. Service dogs can distinguish when they are on "duty" when wearing them. It's important to point out that as with other training tools, a head collar is a management tool. It doesn't really teach a dog not to pull entirely. Only loose leash walking training accomplishes that (focus and heel work). Something to consider though is that by time one has desensitized dog to wearing it appropriately, that same dog could have been trained to walk decently without one if the training is done with the help of a reputable trainer using a front-attachment harness.

Thanks for the details! A harness like an Easy-Walk harness can easily cost under $20. Your dog trainer may have one for you to try out and see how it works out for you. I would be more then happy to send you one if you would like once I am back to the USA (I am overseas until July 25th). You will find several tips on polite leash walking here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/forum/showthread.php?113-Over-excitement

"I was concerned that my original come training may have made her think that come was being associated with the tug she felt when she did not come when called vs the praise she received when she arrived. " It is possible that a dog may have learned that the tug is the actual "cue" to come when called upon being trained on a long line if the tug is used often. In other words, a dog trained with tugs may think something along these lines "when my owner calls me, it doesn't mean anything, I will have to wait for the tug." It's a similar phenomenon as seen with dogs who wait for owners to repeat commands (it's not come, but come, come, come! so dogs won't come when called only once as they are waiting for the repeated cues) which is one reason why repeating commands in dog training is a big no-no. So in such a case, it's important to phase out the tug starting by calling her in close areas and making the recall extra easy-peasy and using high value foods if possible. If it must be kibble for now, how about giving a handful and then sending her back to sniff? We want her to discover and reap the benefits of coming close to you on her own at her pace. Make it super easy to make her succeed. If she is too distracted outside, work more at home and nearby the house and don't move to the next level until ready. If you have a small fenced area, practice off leash with her. Reward her for voluntarily "checking- in" with you. It may take some time after she's done exploring and sniffing. Every time she voluntarily looks at you, approaches you, surprise her and toss her a treat. Do this often and be generous. We want to reward this. More and more dog trainers are discovering that it's easier to train dogs after they have explored their areas. It's as if they feel more secure and confident once they have checked out their place and got acquainted with it. One dog trainer in particular claims " Also, remember using recalls out of the official contest of "training." Use your dog's meal time to her advantage. Have a helper hold her and release her when you call her for her meals. Call her when you get a new toy. Hide it behind you back and give it to her once she reaches you. Surprise her. Since she knows stay, ask her to sit and stay or lay down and stay, then call her to release her (great, flashy recalls usually follow a stationary down/stay/sit/stay) and reward her lavishly. And yes, as Jennifer pointed out, the recall is ongoing training, it's something that you will have to continue working on, competing against stimuli and taking it one step at a time. And it's important to consider it an investment. Each successful recall, puts you a coin in a your recall piggy bank, each non-successful recall removes one coin putting a dent in your progress. This emphasizes the importance of helping the dog succeed by making things easy, short and sweet (do just a few successful recalls and call it a day rather than asking too much) making it worthy (surprising the dog) and having the dog wanting to recall voluntarily to the point where it almost becomes a reflexive response (oh boy, oh boy, here comes something great!!!!). Also, evaluate challenges and work with them. Any time a recall fails, evaluate what happened. Next time, make the exercise easier, split it in baby steps presenting a similar situation in a less intense version with the dog under threshold. For example, the dog didn't come when called when she was sniffing? Next time, wait for her to lift her head off the sniffing area so that she is more responsive. Dogs use a large portion of their brains for sniffing. A dog may still come when called when sniffing, but this takes time and a certain level of training and should only be done in emergency situations rather than just "testing to see how the dog responds."

While doing more training and less free running around may sound like a good plan, there is a risk that this approach may backfire. Here's the thing. If she is allowed less time to run around and explore, this scarcity risks making the outdoors even more salient. For sake of comparison, it's sort of like telling a child I will give you a lollipop at Disney World if you stick to me and ignore all the attractions and the rides. Most likely, day after day, the rides and attractions will become so attractive that the child will toss the lollipop and plan to sneak away and go on venturing on his own. The increased training and less exploring therefore risks turning you into a "party pooper" unless you really put a great emphasis on reinforcing desired behaviors, but we are going against instincts here, and the instinct to explore, smell and stretch the legs after being enclosed will always prevail. 10 acres of land sound like a dog's dream come true. Here's the thing, to dogs, smells are ever changing. Here's a quote that I love: "Each departure from the house brings a new scene, one never visited. Each day, each hour, wears a new smellscape. There is no such thing as “fresh air” to a dog. Air is rich: an olfactory tangle that the dog’s nose will diligently unknot," ~Alexandra Horowitz "Being a Dog: Following the Dog Into a World of Smell." It may therefore help to allow your dog to smell to her's heart content, stretch her legs, pee, poop and do all that she likes and then once she is getting a bit bored you can then call her and reward her and then just send her off to do some exploring in an area that she wasn't explored yet. This, often with certain dogs, is the biggest gift of all. Some dogs look bewildered when they are told to go back to exploring as if thinking "Really? you are sending me off to explore more? And a new spot? Wow! I thought you were going to call me, give me a boring treat and go home!" I have seen several dogs who are tentative to reach their owners completely when called. This is seen often in dogs who: -Are not too motivated by food -Aren't given any reward for coming -The food given is too low value -The owners have grabbed the dog/collar to take him home upon being called (the dog is sort of tentative to approach in fear of some consequence) -The owners have been using food as bribes and failed to phase out the food lures (in other words, they show the food in plain view so that the dog decides whether it's worthy of coming or not based on the food they see) -The dog was trained to play keep away (doesn't apply to you as you mentioned not playing this) Since you mention digestive issues, and using kibble, it could likely that kibble may be a bit boring. Sure Labs/Lab mixes gobble things up like there's no tomorrow, but consider that you are competing against smells, critters, and all that big packet of stimuli that makes the outdoors so great. It may be worthy looking at the package of dog food you are feeding and ask your vet if you can use the same protein listed in the ingredient for training. In other words, if the food you are feeding is made of lamb, ask your vet if you can use lamb meat as a treat for training, if it contains fish, ask about using that same fish, if it lists chicken, consider using chicken. Of course, the training food/treats must only contain that protein and no other ingredients that may contribute to digestive issues. Your vet may be able to help. Also, some lines of dog food make treats using the same proteins as their lines of food. Something worthy of considering if that's an option.