Sit. I'm exhausted

[MARK FISCHER]

I have a 7 month old Frenchie.  We got him at 9 weeks and I believe I have been remiss in training until now.  And I have a handful.  Let's start with treats - he either jumps or lunges at them or ignores them.  If I try to get him to sit as per the instructions given it's just a joke.  The instructions say that as you move your hand with the treat up and over his head that his head will follow and his butt will touch the floor then you give him the treat.  HAHAHAHA   Not my dog.  I present the treat then move it in the manner shown and described.  The result is a dog just jumping or lunging at my hand.  Nothing like what is indicated in the "sit" section.LOL.  Nevermind the constant whining, yelping, always wanting in when he's out and out when he's in, pulling on the leash (hard - he's 38 lbs.)  I'm really exhausted.  He seems to be getting worse as I try to introduce the techniques.  HELP!!

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Hi, there welcome to the forums!

You are describing the poster child of the flight stage overlapping with the adolescent stage, the most challenging phase of all (and sadly the time when most dogs are relinquished to shelters), but this too shall pass! Usually if we start training as soon as we get our pups, by the time they are adolescents, that should help at least curb the major challenges, although not always. 

Here are some reads about both stages:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/flight-instinct-period-4-8-months/

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/

About the jumping at treats, it's an easy fix in theory, but you'll need to very persistent and very patient. Basically, treats happen only when the dog is sitting nicely. Any attempt to get the treats in a jumping manner, lead to the consequence of never getting any (make sure you have a tight grip on them). If he persists, this may even lead to you moving away and possibly even leaving the room and trying again later. 

You may find the airplane game helpful since it's  an exercise in impulse control: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/the-airplane-game/airplane-game-training/ 

As for the sitting, be patient, keep on trying. Try to sit on the couch or a chair, with him on the floor, so that you're more relaxed and not looming over him. Try to stay calm, I know how frustrating it may feel! If he jumps, verbally and matter-of-fact,  mark the mistake with an "eh-eh!" and close your hand with the food lure. Give him a little time to reset and try again. 

Other things you can try:

-Try a treat that is less exciting, like for example, your dog's kibble. The treats may perceived by him as super high in value making him too excited about them and less able to focus. 

-In your particular case, don't make the food lure protrude too much in a way that he can easily steal morsels off. 

-Sit on the couch and call him as your hand is already low to the ground at his nose height. This can prevent the jumping when we present the food lure from a height to get them to sit. 

-Some dogs may need some temporary prop/obstruction that makes it less likely for them to feel like jumping. For example, you can try having him in tight spaces, like between the couch and a coffee table so there's less room for jumping to happen. 

-Train sits in other contexts using a different method so that he learns to "mand." For example, you can try the method of capturing, where you reward spontaneous behaviors by holding a treat bag on you at all times (or treats in your pocket) as you watch him carefully during the day. 

The moment you notice him sitting naturally, praise and toss him a treat. After several trials, he may start noticing a pattern "every time I sit, I get a treat tossed my way!" so those sits will happen more and more often and next thing you know you can start expecting those sits before you lower the food bowl at meal times. Once they happen reliably, start adding the cue "sit" right before he is about to sit so that he connects the action with the behavior. 

About the whining and yelping to get in or out, that's not uncommon. Are you out with him when he's out? Many dogs don't like to be out in the yard alone. Is he neutered? Is he fully potty trained? 

Pulling on the leash- have you tried a front-attachment harness?

[MARK FISCHER]

Thanks so much for the advice.  Things are progressing slowly but we are making progress.

Regarding going outside/inside/outside,etc. etc. I only go out with him sometimes.  There are two dogs next door so that's likely a factor.  He was a natural when it came to potty training so he does very well with that.  He is not neutered.

 

Just got the front attach harness and tried it once.  He almost doesn't want to walk at all but I think he will adjust.

 

I know I just need to keep working with him daily but I struggle with how to "pick and choose my battles". He really is a sweet pup but he just is a handful right now.

 

 

[MARK FISCHER]

Also - he does quite well with targeting and has always been responsive (looks at me) with the smacking noise.

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Thanks so much for the advice.  Things are progressing slowly but we are making progress.

You are very welcome! Yay! Glad to hear you are seeing some improvement, slow and steady wins the race with some pups. 

Regarding going outside/inside/outside,etc. etc. I only go out with him sometimes.  There are two dogs next door so that's likely a factor.  He was a natural when it came to potty training so he does very well with that.  He is not neutered.

I am sure the other dogs are influencing him to want to go in and out more frequently than the average dog who has no "doggy neighbors." If he is not neutered, and the neighbors have an intact female dog who is in heat or nearing heat, that may explain the persistent whining if this has recently increased. If so, careful, as some determined dog have been able to mate even through a chain link fence. 

If he is well potty trained so far, installing a doggy door can help cut out the whining for wanting in and out of the door, however, doggy doors have their own sets of pros and cons. 

Some of the biggest cons is that dog who spend a lot of time outdoors are more prone to health issues such as eating odd things, overheating (especially risky with brachycephalic dogs), and when spending a lot of time outside unsupervised, rehearsing problematic behaviors that can put roots and establish such as barking repeatedly at triggers which can become quite habit-forming.

And of course, the yard shouldn't become a substitute for walks, exercise, training, socialization and mental stimulation. Outdoor time should be well balanced with quality time with “his favorite people.” To make him stick indoors more, it may help to do some brain games, provide long-lasting food puzzles and providing fun games like treasure hunts https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-treasure-hunt/

Just got the front attach harness and tried it once.  He almost doesn't want to walk at all but I think he will adjust.

Some dogs get a "freeze response" to a harness. It can feel restrictive to some dogs and they just freeze as a response. Make sure it's not fit too tight, two fingers should fit between the harness and your dog. 

We mostly see this with dogs not used to wearing it from an early age. It may help to feed treats, play and distract by taking him on stimulating walks that distract them. Taking on a car ride and then walking to a fun place can sometimes help. Some dogs though may persistently freeze and may need a less restrictive type of harness. 

I know I just need to keep working with him daily but I struggle with how to "pick and choose my battles". He really is a sweet pup but he just is a handful right now.

It can feel overwhelming at times. It may help to make a list of the problems to work on with at the top the ones that require more attention and working on those on a step-by-step fashion. Smaller goals are easier to achieve for both us and our dogs. 

We are always here for any questions, troubleshooting or even just encouragement as needed. 

Happy training!

Best,

Adrienne