New here & struggling

[Christine Heath]

Hello. I’ve just started the program with Puck, our nearly 9 year old Border Collie. He knows some basics. He’s good at leave it as far as food/treats/dropped items. He knows sit, down, touch, go to mat, and here (although still working on religion that one). I am struggling to get him to do “take it”. I’m not sure how long each attempt should be or how to tell when he simply isn’t in the mood for a session. Any help or suggestions would be great. Thank you. 

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Hi Christine, thanks for the great question! It sounds like you are Puck are on the right path, but are struggling a bit with the "take" cue. This is reasonable. Teaching a reliable “take it” command ( or better, cue) is a wonderfully useful skill, especially for dogs who already have good impulse control.

Many dog parents find that dogs who excel at not grabbing things (because they’ve practiced self-control for years) can actually be hesitant when we suddenly want them to put something in their mouth. This is especially true for older dogs who have long, established learning histories.

Let’s break down how to teach a dog the “take it” command, how to structure sessions, how to read the dog' motivation, and how to avoid the most common problems.

Understanding What “Take It” Really Teaches

Many people think of “take it” as simply a permission cue, sort of like a "You may have this now,” but for a dog, it’s often much more than that. To your dog, “take it” entails a variety of steps. In order to "take it" dogs therefore will first need to:

• Approach an object
• Open the mouth
• Lift or hold it

If a dog has spent years being heavily reinforced not to grab something unless explicitly told, he may naturally default to caution. For a thoughtful, biddable breed like a Border Collie, this caution can be even more pronounced. If your dog is therefore hesitant to "take" consider that he isn’t being stubborn, he’s just being careful, which is actually a sign that his impulse-control foundation is strong.

Use the Right Starting Object

The object you choose for teaching “take it” matters more than most people realize. If you teach with food, many dogs take the food automatically, but some dogs (especially those with advanced “leave it” skills) may be unsure whether food or certain objects offered in a training context are truly “allowed.”

Try the following progression:

1. Start with something your dog naturally wants to put in his mouth
   • A favorite toy
   • A soft tug rope
   • A plush toy
   • A ball (if he enjoys retrieve-type play)
2. Avoid unfamiliar or low-value objects early on
   These can reduce clarity and motivation.
3. If using food, begin with high-value treats that your dog normally takes readily, such as soft meat-based treats. Hold them in a clear presentation: extended hand, treat between thumb and forefinger, or treat on an open palm.

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Build the Behavior Before Adding the Cue

A common training issue is “naming the cue too soon.” For “take it,” you want your dog performing the action confidently before you attach the spoken command. Following are several incremental steps.

1. Present the object
   Hold the toy or treat in a neutral, easy-to-see position.
2. Reward any movement toward the object
   At first, mark (with a click or “yes”) even small motions like leaning forward or sniffing.
3. Mark for mouth contact
   Once he’s consistently approaching, wait for him to touch the object with his mouth. Instantly mark and reward.
4. Mark for beginning to grasp
   When he begins placing teeth on the object, mark and give a treat. You may treat with a different reward than the object itself (e.g., dog takes the toy → you give chicken).
5. Reinforce the full grasp
   When he takes hold confidently, reinforce with praise, food, or a short game.

Only when steps 1 to 5 happen smoothly and predictably should you add the cue “take it.”

Adding the Cue Properly

Once your dog is reliably grasping the object:

1. Present the object.
2. Pause one second.
3. Say “Take it.”
4. Allow him to make the behavior happen.
5. Mark and reward.

The one-second pause avoids teaching him that “take it” means “watch me move the object toward you.” Instead, he learns his action triggers the reward. After 20 to 40 successful repetitions across a few sessions, he’ll begin responding to “take it” before moving toward the object.

What If He Still Doesn’t Grab the Item?

Some dogs freeze slightly when asked to do something opposite to what impulse-control exercises have taught. Here are ways to build confidence:

Use Movement

Many dogs are motor-pattern driven. A slight wiggle of the toy can spark engagement. Avoid fast or overwhelming wiggling, just enough to encourage interest.

Use Play as the Reinforcer

For many dogs such as Border Collies, play is a powerful reward. If your dog takes the item even briefly, follow it with:

• Light tugging
• Excited verbal praise
• A brief game

You want him to think: “Taking it leads to fun!”

Use High-Value Food

If you are training with treats, try:

• Bits of chicken or turkey
• Cheese
• Freeze-dried meat
• Peanut-butter flavored training bites. Make sure the peanut butter doesn't contain the deadly ingredient xylitol.

Hold the treat in a way that invites taking without requiring big effort.

Lower the Criteria

If he won’t grasp, go back to marking for mouth touches only. Build the increments slowly.

How Long Should Each Training Session Be?

Short, frequent sessions produce the best long-term learning.

Ideal session length should be: 1 to 3 minutes for shaping or new behaviors and 3 to 5 minutes for practicing known skills. Dogs—especially young puppies or older ones do much better with multiple ultra-short sessions scattered throughout the day rather than one long one.

Signs a Training Session is Too Long or He’s Losing Motivation

As you train, it's important that you monitor for signs of fatigue. Following are several warning signs that the training is going for too long and your dog is starting to lose motivation.

• your dog begins looking away from you
• He sniffs the ground or disengages
• He starts yawning or scratching (signs of mild stress)
• He takes the treat slowly, or stops taking treats
• He leaves the training area
• His responses become inconsistent

When you see these signs, end the session right away by asking something easy. For example: ask for a “target,” reward, and finish. Ending before he gets tired keeps training fun and increases anticipation for next time.

How to Tell If Your Dog Isn’t in the Mood

Even enthusiastic dogs have off days. Your goal is to recognize when your dog is in a receptive learning state. Your dog is in the mood for training when:

• He approaches you with interest
• His ears are neutral or forward
• He takes treats quickly
• His body posture is relaxed but alert
• He chooses to stay near you
• His responses to known cues are crisp

Signs Your Dog Isn't in the Mood For Training

• He refuses treats he normally loves
• He’s pacing, panting, or unsettled
• He is sleepy or just got up from a nap
• He is overly distracted by noises or movement
• He disengages from very easy cues
• He shows stress signals (lip-licking, turning away, yawning in context, paw lifting)

If he’s not in the mood, simply try again later. Training should never feel like pressure to the dog.

Always Practice in Easy Environments First

When teaching or refining a new behavior at almost nine years old, minimizing environmental distractions is important.Make sure to therefore train in a:

• A quiet room
• Without other pets present
• With the TV off
• With you seated or standing still
• In good lighting so your dog sees the object clearly
• Use toys in colors that your dog can readily see in the background

Older dogs sometimes have mild sensory changes (slower vision adaptation, decreased motivation, etc.). Keeping the environment simple helps him succeed.

Combine “Leave It” and “Take It” Later (Optional)

Once “take it” is solid on its own, you can practice tiny patterns such as:

1. Present object
2. Say “leave it”
3. He waits
4. Say “take it”
5. He grabs the item
6. You praise

This ensures that the two cues remain separate and that your dog learns you will clarify what you want each time.

Celebrate Slow Progress

Older dogs learn wonderfully, but sometimes a bit more gradually. A dog's hesitation to take it, is not resistance; it’s caution born from previous learning and a desire to avoid making a mistake. This is actually a desirable trait in cooperative working dogs.

Every small step, whether from sniffing the object to a full grab is progress. Keep sessions fun, upbeat, and short, and you’ll see the behavior build reliably.

Final Thoughts

You’re doing everything right by noticing your dog's hesitation and wanting to set him up for success. With thoughtful shaping, bite-sized sessions, and attention to his motivation, Puck should  learn “take it” with confidence and enthusiasm, likely faster than you expect.

Happy training!