Thieving Pooch

[JMFS]

Our newest addition is a shameless cutpurse and demolitionist. She's approximately 9 months old per the vet's best guess. 50% Golden retriever, 25% boxer, 25% American Staffordshire Terrier per the DNA test. She's smart, has pretty darn good recall that's getting better with training, is progressing nicely on Leave It, she chases a ball but doesn't return it so that's another thing we're working on, and has a generally happy-go-lucky attitude. Separation anxiety and sticky paws are her main issues.

 

We did a 25-minute 1½ mile walk this morning so while we weren't running, we were definitely at a brisk pace and there was no sniffing or playing, despite oodles of stimuli everywhere (even a sandhill crane who was hanging out on the side of the road mocking us). Then she ate her breakfast from her Kong Wobbler (mental exercise). Then she played with my super hyper dog for 20 minutes (good old fashioned rough housing), and finally she had a rawhide in her crate to work on desensitizing her separation anxiety. This chick should be ready for a few minutes of chilling out.

 

Not so much. I turned my back on her for Maybe three minutes and she was nose deep into the peanut butter I left open in the kitchen (my fault - totally forgot it was there), happily gorging herself. That'll be fun later . . .. This girl goes from fine to menace as soon as I'm out of view. Sometimes it's as little as ten seconds before she's on my desk - which has no food items - searching for something to get into. As I'm figuring out what she's apt to snatch I put it away.

 

I can't leave her outside with psycho boy because she digs or tears up whatever she can find (we've lost irrigation, has manure fertilizer spread all over the pool area, screens punched out so she could get to the pool, to name a few). My boy is also given to getting too rough so I have to supervise their play until he learns where the limit is. It's flippin' hot in Florida and although we have an acre with plenty of shade it's not good to let them out together because they don't know when to stop. My boy stays outside - he hates being inside - but he also doesn't tear stuff up, dig holes, etc . . . so he Can stay outside.

 

I have to get a handle on this. I work out of the home and I have to be able to work, or go to the restroom, without her going destroying what she deems worth her time to destruct. Normally she follows me to the bathroom and it's a 60 / 40 chance she's going to get into trouble there. The toilet is separated from the rest of the bathroom and it Should be good desensitization for me to have that door closed for 20 seconds, but it proves to be too much sometimes. We're managing what we can, but this girl has impressive reach for being only mid thigh high so we're adjusting as we discover what else she's able to reach. I see all these people brag that their dog wouldn't Dare take something that wasn't meant for them, and I have to wonder how on Earth they accomplished that. When asked, they only respond, "it's called training." Gee, thanks, that's helpful.

 

Currently she's chilling under my desk, but as soon as I get up to get something off the printer she's going to be wanting to be entertained. I've got lavender pumping through a diffuser and relaxing piano music playing, which I think helps. Aside from hardcore exercise, which I'm not able to participate in (arthritic back) I feel I've tried the majority of suggestions so I felt it's time to ask an expert.

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Hello Jennifer M,

Welcome to the forum!

At 9 months, you are dealing with the poster child of doggy adolescence, which can lead to several issues which are not that dissimilar from what parents go through with their growing up teenagers. It's a time of challenges and these dogs needs loads of mental stimulation and guidance. Not coincidentally, sadly this is also the age where most dogs are surrendered to shelters. Not many dog owners have the time and patience to keep up with an adolescent dog's demands and the associated time. Those though determined to help their dogs succeed, will often see the light after the tunnel, although it may take some time to see a return in investment. Here is some info on doggy adolescence from the archive:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/

 

You are on the right track and deserve a big pat on the back. You are not only dealing with a difficult stage, but with behavior problems on top of that. You likely do not know much about this dog's past history and the main reasons why she was given away. Separation anxiety is not a quick fix, it can take weeks, months, if not, in some severe cases, years. If your dog is a new addition, consider as well that if you got her from the shelter, she has stress hormones left and right that may take some time to get out of the system. These are difficult times. I know that because I have fostered many dogs and the first weeks can be very tough. It seems like these dogs have boundless energy and thier lives have likely never had any structure.

 

I can provide you with some tips to help set her for success, however, I must be honest here and point out that it may take some time to see desired behavior changes with these dogs. How much depends on several factors. For a good part for how long these dogs have been rehearsing these problem behaviors and how long those stress hormones linger. The good news is that your dog is young, and there is ample of room to allow a good history of reinforcement to take over and allow desired behaviors to strenghten. So here are some thoughts and general ideas:

[Adrienne Farricelli]

1) We often hear the saying a "tired dog is a good dog." Now, I am guilty of saying this as well but this applies mostly to the average dog who has lived with the same owner for some time, a dog with stability in his life, little stress and no major behavior issues. It also applies well to certain laid-back dog breeds. This doesn't seem to apply much with certain dogs especially certain dog breeds or dogs who have been recently rescued. Add on top of that, in your case, a dog in full peak adolescence.

 

Fact is, although a 25 minute walk may seem a lot along with some mental stimulation and some play, this is really not much for a teenager dog with an innate tendency for being in perpatual motion. Certainly, it is not enough to discourage a dog from wanting to gain access to a jar of peanut butter. Many dogs even if exhausted (like after going hunting running for miles and miles) will still embrace such an opportunity just as an athlete who has just run a marathon will still have the energy to reach out for a favorite drink. So what I am trying to say is that just because a dog has been given the opportunity to exercise doesn't mean it will not get himself in mischief (at least mischief to us, as to a dog a jar of peanut butter left unattended is fair game as nobody was there to claim it.)

 

2) If your dog has a tendency to snatch things, there are several ways to tackle this. There is usually not a one-solution that fixes it all, but rather it often takes a multi-facted approach. Here is an article on stealing things:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/stealing-things/ Your individual case though may require a few add-ons.

 

3) Since it sounds like your dog appears to steal the most when you are out of sight, as outlined in the article, management is top priority. I know you are already working on keeping things out of reach, but I want to point out the importance of this. The more a dog rehearses the problem behavior, the more it becomes ingrained. Fact is, "stealing" brings a strong reinforcement history. So every time your dog gets a hang of something when you are out of sight, the reward history has already occurred. The dog got to eat, chew and interact with the stolen item.

 

4) Just to point this out, when you catch your dog stealing, it often won't matter much what happens next (unless you catch your dog right in the act!) as the dog already gained his momentum of reinforcement. So if in the next handful of seconds or minutes after your dog has already enjoyed interacting with the stolen item, you reprimand your dog for stealing, he'll likely not make the association between the act of stealing and your frustration and you'll end up just looking like a big party pooper who stops all the fun. Another good reason to steal things when you are not around!

 

5) Now, I am using the word "stealing" but dogs do not have a sense of stealing in the same way we do. Among dogs, if you watch them interact, you will see that when a dog is lying down with an item and then gets up leaving the item behind, to the other dog this is an official "signal" meaning that the dog has lost interest in it. So an unattended jar of peanut butter from a dog's perspective is a relinquished item left to anyone who wishes to claim it. A dog who we therefore think is "stealing" something we have left on the counter, in reality is acting quite politely, waiting for the person to leave it behind and show no more interest in it.

 

Therefore, in other words, dogs do not the cognitive abilities to recognize that an item that is far away from us and not in our direct possession still belongs to us and should not be touched. Dogs act out of instinct and are opportunists and after all without this trait they likely wouldn't have made it so far as a species (imagine a starving dog in the wild not eating food readily available to them).

 

6) I know this sounds repetitive but this cannot be emphasized enough. "Manage Your Dog's Environment." By managing your dog's environment, you are preventing access to things your dog can potentially steal when you are not actively watching. This often entails "thinking lik a dog." In other words, look at your home and remove items that your dog is likely to feel like "stealing." This is similar to toddler-proofing a home only that dogs are capable of pulling and ripping things apart, jumping up and stealing items from counters and tables. It seems like you are already doing a great job with this by removing items from your desk. I would expand this to other areas of the home or even better restrict access to only areas that have been "proofed."

 

There may be various tempting things to remove such as pens from a desk, small knick-knacks from a piece of furniture or food leftovers from over a table. These dog-proofing measures are important as many times dogs who steal stuff are also likely to ingest them leading to costly surgeries to remove blockages or hospitalizations associated with dogs eating things they shouldn't (think baker's chocolate left unattended on the table). Again, to make life easier, it's best to restrict a dog's access to a small area that is easy to dog proof. For many dogs who tend to get in a trouble, a secure crate may be the best option, although this might not be feasible yet for your dog.

 

7) Leave Legit Items Around. Now, that your have removed the items your dog shouldn't have, it's a good idea to leave several ample choices of legit items your dog can have. You may want to invest in sturdy dog toys that do not break apart for safety, although, a disclaimer is warranted here as any toy though could turn into a problem with an aggressive chewer.

 

8) Increase Saliency. Often the items dogs steal are particularly appealing eaither because they taste good, have a nice texture to chew on or simply have a sense of novelty. It helps to increase the saliency of legit items.

 

Interactive toys work best as they offer a double-whammy. They are fun, attractive toys on their own and offer food rewards inside. A strategically stuffed toy can provide a mental workout and several minutes of entertainment. A Kong Wobbler can have some pieces of large cookies inside which may help prevent the kibble from coming out too freely and too fast.

 

Also, it helps to rotate access to legit toys. Keeping some toys out of reach, and then back out again helps prevent them from getting too boring. This sense of novelty may make them less appealing than other items that may be found laying around the house.

 

8) Practice the Leave it Cue. Find it here:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/ Training your dog to "leave it" is important so that your dog understands that some items should be left alone. Make sure to practice with low value items at first and praise/reward your dog lavishly when he listens to your cue.

 

9) Practice The Drop it Cue. Find it here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/drop-it/ Training your dog to "drop it" adds a back-up plan should you be to late to say "leave it" as your dog has the item already in his mouth. It can make the difference between life and death should the dog get a hang of something potentially dangeours.

 

10) Active Supervision. When you have free time, make it a habit of performing active supervision. This means that you will be closely supervising your dog (no distractions!) and providing him guidance and feedback about what he can and cannot touch. Tell your dog "leave it" the second you notice intent of getting something you don't want him to have. You shouldn't have to say "drop it" if you are actively supervising.

 

11) Never run after your dog should he end up having an item he shouldn't have. This can prompt the keep-away game and even prompt to resource guarding in dogs predisposed to this. Instead, train your dog to respond to drop it and trade. You can find info about the basics of trading for toys (or any other items) here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/overprotective-of-toys/

 

12) Out of Sight, but not Out of Mind. Finally, as a last resort for some challenging cases of dogs who tend to steal certain items over and over, it may help to teach the dog a valuable lesson: that although you are not in sight, you are still there. This should entail leaving the dog with an item that he is often likely to steal and watching the dog from a window at a distance or a remote camera from behind the door. The moment the dog attempts to the get the item, the dog owners should announce "leave it"to remind the dog that although he's not in sight, the dog is still being watched. It may help to use a nanny camera and remind the dog to "leave it" as needed. The Furbo camera offers the advantage of allowing you to even give treats to reinforce good behaviors. These sessions can be rehearsed several times, although there are no guarantees the dog won't steal the item if left alone for a long time. Also, such rehearsals should never be used with items that are potentially harmful to the dog.

 

So to recap, by preventing rehearsals of problem behaviors, managing your dog environment, limiting access to stuff your dog can steal, granting access to legit items, increasing their saliency, training leave it and drop it, providing structured guidance, with time, you should hopefully see an increase in your dog making good choices. Of course, this is on top of providing exercise, training and mental stimulation.

 

Please do not let other dog owners downplay the effort needed in helping a rescued dog. This is a very different situation from owning a dog that you have had since a puppy where you can mold good behaviors from the get-go and work more on preventing issues rather than fixing some badly ingrained habits.

 

Hope this helps!

Best regards,

Adrienne

Edited January 22, 2020 by Adrienne Farricelli

[JMFS]

Thank you ever-so-much. There's a good deal of information here to chew on. She was nose-deep in that peanut butter when I caught her, lol. She didn't even hear me approach. When I said "leave it" she pulled right on out of there and had an impressive peanut butter beard. What a mess! The little turkey was licking her chops for 10 minutes, likely in puppy nirvana. The Humane Society folks said she was picked up as a stray so I'm sure she developed a sense of "get it while the gettin' is good," when she was a free range canine. My husband was eating yesterday and she strolled right on up and put her face into his food. Brazen little gal! We have work to do on boundaries and rules for sure.

 

We'll continue to work on the progress and incorporate your suggestions. She's sticking with us - no more pound for her! I remember when my 8-yr old was younger, he was a holy terror - also a rescue. There was improvement today when we got home. Normally I have a Kong with wet food that I've frozen for her to work on while we're out, but this time I left her with a frozen Kong filled with a tablespoon of peanut butter mixed with yogurt and ¼ cup of dog food. She didn't even look at us as we were leaving. When we returned there was no barking and I didn't have to do the exercise of leaving the room until she was quiet. I'm hopeful that's an indicator she's catching on. I've been picking up my purse and sitting at my desk, then putting the purse away, since I noticed the sound of my keys was a trigger. We have the additional challenge of the dachshund doing what sounds like a hyena hyperventilating when we get home, not exactly a good example. That's a case of the husband needing to be trained . . . dogs are easier.

 

You're right - she certainly does seem as though she's in a teenage state of mind. She even flopped down this afternoon after being told to leave it and gave me a heavy sigh. That's likely me personifying her behavior, but it sure did look like a mini-tantrum. She's receptive to training and she is smart, which is good and bad depending on how one looks at it. A less clever dog = less effort to manage, but a smart dog = a lot more fun even if they are a lot more work (in my opinion).

 

I'll continue to chip away at the management and we do have both inside dogs gated into a smaller area of the house so it's nice to know we were on the right track there. Thank you, again, for taking the time to put together a comprehensive post targeting her issues. We'll get there eventually and then it will be on to better and more enjoyable things.

 

Take care,

 

Jennifer