Totally untrained, undiciplined Shepherd

[FrancesPlaten]

I have recently become aquainted with a lady in my town who is 94 yrs of age and is caring for two very beautiful German Shepherds. How this came about is probably not relevant for our purposes here.  The dogs are, Lisa, 11 yr old and Max aged 7, they have been together for Max's entire life. While Lisa is  quiet, affectionate and generally well behaved, Max is, and probably has always been hyperactive and almost out of control. I say almost here because I have gradually been able to get him to obey  a few commands. His owner can also command him to sit, go to bed and come, very basic considering the high intelligence of these dogs. Most people in our Community avoid this house because whenever any one approaches, or even walks down the street, Max actually throws himself at the windows,( which are  floor to ceiling) barking and snarling in a very aggressive manner, Lisa joins in of course but without the aggression.  The owner has always just shut  the dogs in the bedroom where they usually sleep, before she can answer the door, but sometimes it is very difficult to get Max to go.  The owner previously had a partner living with her who insisted on having the dogs but took no interest in their care. The lady who is now caring for them had never had a dog before and knew nothing about them except that they needed food and water and a warm place to sleep, this she has diligently provided and the dogs obviously love her, Max being extremely protective of both her an Lisa. I believe he has assumed the role of Alpha in the household.  When these people purchased Max, the man was a semi-invalid, confined to a wheelchair and the lady already in her late 80's. It was extremely irresponsible for anyone to have sold Max to these people, at the age of 6 months he must have already be showing signs of being a highly active and willful dog.  Max was wearing a collar when he was purchased which was extremely tight, possibly even painful for him, the collar had to be cut off and, unfortunately, it did not occur to anyone to replace it with a bigger one, therefore, Max has lived his entire life since age 6 months, with no collar, no lead work no walks or socialising with other people/dogs except Lisa and the member of the household. Fortunately, there is a big secure yard where the dogs can  get plenty of excercise together.  Soon after meeting the lady I asked her to allow the dogs out of the room so I could meet them.  I have had  a lot of experience with shepherds and was not afraid. The dogs inspected me quite thoroughly, accepted some treats from me, both quite gently.  Lisa wanted lots of pats etc but Max just went of and lay down apparently ignoring me but watching every move. When I went to leave, telling my hostess not to bother getting up, Max did the old Shepherd technique of trying to prevent me from leaving, although I was aware of his nonsense, I was preoccupied with making sure he did not get out the door, thereby realising that it was all bluff. The second time he tried this with me I simply turn around and told him very firmly to "Go TO Bed" and he did. I do not believe Max is actually aggressive but he is very protective of his owner, He does not like to be handled much and any attempt to put a collar on him has failed completely. He will run away and has been known to growl if any attempt is made to restrain him.  Our local vet will not have anything to do with Max unless we present in the surgery on a secure lead and muzzled. He will then sedate him before any examination.  Most people who know about Max say there is only one solution, he needs to be put down. The owner is not prepared to do this although Max makes it extremely difficult for her to get the help she needs, and, although she would probably be a lot better off in care, she knows that no one will take responsibility for him.  I am trying to get through to Max so that there may be another option for him, a possibility for him to be rehomed.  The local vet is assisting me with providing medication to partially sedate him so that we can put on a collar, check him over for any lumps or other abnormalities and groom him a bit.  I am hoping that we might be able to do a little lead work even if we have to introduce a muzzle to do it.  I am hoping that, if we are extremely gentle in our handling of him while collared and muzzled, he will realise that it is not such a bad thing.  So far, I have been able to scratch behind his ears and at the top of his tail, which he seems to really like but any attempt to take hold of him and he is off, he knows very well too, that if he gets under something he is safe from being grabbed. I would love to hear some thoughts on my plans for Max. I think the biggest challenge will be trying to stop the barking and throwing himself at gates, windows etc as he ignores any attempt to get him to stop.

[Adrienne]

Hello and welcome to the forums,

It is very noble of you offering to help out these dogs. From what I understand, you would like to work on Max's issues, primarily the throwing himself at the gates/windows etc and then getting him habituated to wearing a collar and leash. Considering his history, this will not be an easy task, but it can be doable with lots of patience and determination-and the correct type of help.

 

In general, dogs like this are assessed by professionals and then if deemed safe, they are placed in temporary foster homes where they can be assessed and gradually trained (through the help of professionals) and then the dogs are evaluated to determine whether they are safe and ready to be rehomed. Rescues specializing in certain breeds can be a resource.

 

One of the primary issues I see is that you are dealing with a dog who has likely rehearsed these behaviors from quite a long time. The more a dog rehearses certain behaviors, the more they put roots and become more challenging to overcome. On top of this, I see some issues management-wise. One can work a lot on a dog, but if the dog is allowed to keep on rehearsing the problematic behavior, even if at random intervals, it is difficult to progress and you risk going back to square one. 

 

So let's say we do lots of foundation work in conditioning this dog not to bark and throw himself at windows. If he still gets to rehearse this behavior in his home, even if just every now and then, a good part of this hard work will be cancelled out. This because barking at the windows is reinforcing to the dog and when dogs show aggressive behaviors it triggers the secretion of adrenaline and noradrenaline and this chemical bath can get quite addicting which explains why aggressive behaviors tend to establish and repeat (James O'Heare, 2007). 

 

Behavior professionals in general deal with behavior problems using what's known as a functional behavioral assessment (FBA) which allows them to pinpoint the triggers and the function of the behavior and then, based on their observations and findings, formulate a behavior intervention plan. 

 

Behavior intervention plans often involve behavior modification techniques based on desensitization and counterconditioning and sometimes involve as well training of alternate, incompatible behaviors (differential reinforcement) meant to replace the undesirable behavior. Initially, these experts will collect data to gather a baseline and then they use charts to track the problem behavior and recognize whether it is improving or not. 

 

Here is a read on desensitization:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/

Here is a read on counterconditioning:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/

And this is differential reinforcement: 

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/differential-reinforcement-incompatible-behaviors/

Important is also to read body language fluently for signs of stress/fear:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/signs-fear-stress-dogs/

and understand how things can escalate:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dogs-dont-bite-blue/

and recognize signs that a dog is over threshold:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/

 

So for instance, for a dog who isn't used to wearing a collar, behavior intervention may involve taking very small steps in a very systematic way (desensitization) while creating positive associations (counterconditioning).  Here is just a general guideline, but take this only as an example as dogs are individuals and may require a personalized plan with more intermediate steps in between as needed and additional steps for safety (for example, having the dog wearing a basket muzzle -which allows to feed treats through it- and wearing Bite Buster Kevlar gloves).  

 

One may start from touching the dog in an area close to the neck (but not the neck area yet) that doesn't evoke any particular response that may suggest that the touch feels aversive. As the area is touched, the dog is fed a treat, as the dog finishes the treat, the hand is removed. This is done several times to communicate to the dog that treats are contingent upon touch. The goal is to obtain what is known as positive conditioned emotional response (a state where the dog shows signs of happy anticipation to being touched as it comes to signal a treat is coming).

 

Next, if once the dog seems fine with previous step, one may start touching the dog in the top of the neck area (where the collar goes) and feed treats in the same way as before. Touch/ treat, touch treat, to communicate to the dog that treats are contingent upon touch. The goal again is to obtain a positive conditioned emotional response (+CER).

 

Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would may proceed to introducing  the collar. One can hold the collar behind his/her own back and then present it to the dog. The dog is fed a tasty treat for looking at it or sniffing it. Then, once the dog has finished eating the treat, the collar is hidden behind the back again and the sequence is repeated several times always looking for a +CER.  Treats happen only when the collar comes out from hiding behind the back!

 

Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would unbuckle the collar and allow it to briefly touch the top of the dog's neck as one feeds a treat at the same time. Touch neck with collar, treat; touch neck with collar, treat. This is done several times always looking for that lovely conditioned emotional response. Treats happen when the collar touches the neck. .

 

Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would place the collar on the dog's neck and try to make the two ends of the collar touch while a helper feeds the dog treats. The collar is removed once the dog is done eating. This is done several times always looking for that  conditioned emotional response.

 

Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would advance to doing the same exercise, only that this time, one will pretend to buckle the collar as the helper feeds the treats. Once done eating, the collar is removed. This is done several times always looking for that  conditioned emotional response.

 

Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would aim to actually buckle the collar making sure though that it remains loose. The helper would feed treats and the exercise is rinsed and repeated various times always looking for a positive CER.

 

Next,  once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would buckle it more and more snug (as the helper feeds treats) until it's snug enough that one can fit two fingers between the collar and the dog's neck. Then the collar is unbuckled once the dog is done eating treats.

 

Once the dog seems OK wearing the collar, the dog is praised (if the dog finds this reinforcing) and a  jackpot of treats is given by tossing several tasty treats the ground for the dog to eat. Then, the helper hand feeds a treat as the collar is removed and one would  act suddenly boring, no more praise and treats. The dog is ignored. Happy things happen only once the dog wears the collar.  

 

Of course, this is the slow method, done at the dog's pace. Although slow, it's the method that has the dog become an active participant rather than a dog trying to hide. Attempting to get into the space of a dog who is hiding can be a dangerous practice as it can evoke a bite since a dog's flight option (capacity to flee) is removed. 

 

For situations where a dog needs to be collared and leashed quickly (as to be taken to the vet for an emergency) experts in the field (such as animal control officers) may use a catch pole to hold a dog still and place him in a transportation cage. The dog will certainly not like this, but it's an option if the dog needs to see the vet quickly. 

 

For muzzling, if a dog isn't used to it, it will also require a conditioning period:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-your-dog-to-wear-a-muzzle/

 

But a faster method may involve filling a muzzle attached to a pole or a piece of furniture with peanut butter and let the dog eat/lick it while one straps it on and then a collar can be applied more safely. 

 

It goes without saying that an acclimatization process is also needed to get the dog used to wearing a leash and giving in to leash pressure. This would also require lots of baby steps and good associations. 

 

For the issue on barking at windows, I typically use this method below for average barking, but in a dog who isn't used to being leashed it would require extra precautions for safety and to reduce threshold levels such as placing temporary window film to make the visuals less salient, working at a far distance, doing lots of foundation work to get a super solid response to the smacking sound and preventing rehearsal when the dog is not being trained. If he throws himself at the windows though in such a way as to potentially injure himself, sedatives may be required to lower the threshold level just enough to pave the path for behavior modification.

 

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/

 

It goes without saying, that, due to the complexity of this issue (a dog who we aren't familiar with, with a strong history of rehearsing certain behaviors, and demonstrating avoidance behaviors with potential aggressive displays) the intervention of a behavior professional is recommended for safety and correct implementation of behavior modification. A board-certified veterinary behaviorist may be ideal here as he/she may help rule out any medical issues and may prescribe sedatives as needed along the way. Some rescues and no-kill shelters may sometimes have volunteer professionals willing to help out in the case of dogs who can be helped out. Please ensure they use force-free methods as these dogs need more more stress in their lives. 

 

I hope this helps,

Best,

Adrienne 

 

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If the dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation. 

[FrancesPlaten]

Thank you so much Adrienne. I will certainly take all of the above on board. I am well aware that the slow, steady acclimatisation method is by far the best and I have often used it in the past. Unfortunately, the age and fairly rapid decline of the owner is not going to permit this and she is very afraid that if she surrenders Max to a Rescue organisation, they will give up on him as so many have recommended this.  Max has been taken to a Vet in the past using the catch pole and virtually dragging him and the owner found this very stressful.  We are afraid that the owner will become ill, fall or suffer some other trauma making it necessary for someone to enter the home, to this end I have made it a practice to enter the house from various different doors, he has shown signs of wanting to confront me but when I show that I am not intimidated and simply command him to got to bed or sit he will either do that or come and greet me with a lick of my hand. Because of this, I am convinced that Max can be tamed with a patient but very firm approach. I would like to encourage a few other people who need to visit the home on a regular basis, to adopt this approach  but am very aware of the risk, so far, my husband is the only other person who seems to have a affect on Max. the owner has our numbers and we have encouraged her to call us in any emergency no matter when, I worry that if a complete stranger approaches, valuable time may be lost in trying to get past Max.  I had already recommended that the lower windows in the house be boarded as I felt it might help a bit.  My main aim is to , as quickly as possible, get Max to a stage where he can be lead out, even if it has to be muzzled, and not skull-dragged, to be surrendered to a  reputable organization who will have the experts to work with him as you suggest.  The owner will feel easier about surrendering him if it can be done this way and she can see some hope for him.  Max is a beautiful black shepherd, a little on the big side and I believe there would be  many people who would love to have him. Most of the rescue organisations have a very good system of matching dogs to owners so I expect they could find the right person for Max, he is only 7 yrs old. The only other issue that will be a drawback, is his devotion to not only his owner but also to Lisa his female companion,  being separated from them will be extremely traumatic for him and will certainly add another challenge to his rehabilitation.

[Adrienne]

You are very welcome!

 I usually tackle dogs who don't do well with strangers over using desensitization and counterconditioning first as outlined below: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dog-barking-someone-enters-room/ and then once the emotional side of things get better, I may then add a go to the mat cue where the dog is reinforced for going on the mat when visitors come over https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/

I understand this takes time, but sometimes, progress can be made fairly quickly when working along with a professional (like a CAAB or DACVB) who can ensure he always stays under threshold and keeps tabs on what triggers setbacks and how to get back on track quickly. The professional may also asses if this dog is truly protective of the owner or fearful/territorial or both.  This is often done through observations and a process of exclusion.

However, no professional can guarantee results, and you are correct, in that, it can be a big liability having visitors over if the behavior of going on a mat hasn't been reached a good level of stimulus control and if one hasn't covered all basis when it comes to triggers. For example, Max may come to accept you and your husband entering from different doors after several trials, but he may react totally differently to a new person entering the home, such as an EMT coming out of a truck with sirens and wearing uniforms and possibly carrying odd things. 

At this point, we have some other options that can ameliorate the situation:

One may be consulting with Max's vet and see if whether he or she may be willing to prescribe some calming meds. These, depending on type can take some weeks to take effect, but there are some that are shorter-acting that can be used on an "as needed-basis".  He sounds highly stressed and anxious and working on him in this state may not be as productive as if he were on meds. It is similar to a person with bad anxiety, where often no amount of therapy will help them, but then once they have the right levels of medication to help them, they can learn to interact in ways that the anxiety precluded them from doing in the past. In the state he is in now, his fight and flight system is in overdrive and powerful hormones are likely affecting his cognitive abilities-impairing learning. 

With the right meds, it may be possible to have a behavior professional work on him to condition him to wearing the collar/leash and react less intensively to visitors. This professional may also help asses the dog and suggest the most appropriate options based on history taking and observations. 

Another option is to skip the vet (or get a referral) and go directly to a veterinary behaviorist (DACVB). He or she may want to rule out some medical conditions that may cause dogs to be more reactive (like low thyroid levels, chronic pain)  and can prescribe calming meds directly along with implementing behavior modification. He or she may help determine whether there is hope for behavior modification -and thus keeping him in the home, or whether it may best to have some trained rescue volunteers take over his care. 

It is often very difficult to imagine a stressed dog undergo more stress when being re-homed, but in some cases, the situation may be for the better. Meds can also help for this transition. It would be important inquiring with the rescue and giving the dog's whole history disclosing all his behaviors (including any bite histories if present) for the safety of those who will partake in potential rehabilitation. 

He may find a dedicated person who will be willing to work with him and provide him a low-stress environment where he can be provided with daily walks, exercise and the mental stimulation he needs. I have seen dogs suffer the very first days due to the changes, but they tend move on, and sometimes even fairly quickly  if their new environment is nourishing. 

I hope this helps,

Best,

Adrienne 

 

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If the dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation. By participating in this forum, you automatically accept such disclaimer.