Separation anxiety urinating in house and car when left alone.

[Debbie Delahanty]

Rescued a 1-2 yr old Pitbull. Confidant/recently neutered. Had him for 2 1/2 months. Separation anxiety has gotten worse. He peed on our bed and pooped on our sons bed, the last time he was left at home for 1 hour. The time before that he was left for 15 minutes and left a puddle.  Left him in my car for about 15 min at the store, after his class & he peed on the front seat and floor. Been working on crate training but he doesn't like it. Gonna try leaving him in the bathroom next time for a short while. I work from home and husband is retired. The first trainer recommended rehoming him and wouldn't let him in her group class. She was very concerned about this issue. We just started obedience classes somewhere else. 

[Adrienne]

Hello, and welcome to the forums,

Many dogs with separation anxiety struggle with the crate because they associate it with social isolation. These dogs need lots of baby steps. It is good that you work at home and your husband is retired as this offers the perk of working gradually and possibly taking turns when going outside as your new rescue adjusts. I will be posting below some info on separation anxiety and several general protocols. 

 Something to consider firstly is that separation anxiety can be a little tricky to diagnose at times (it's now called "the great imitator" for this very reason). The best way to diagnose separation anxiety with more certainty is recording a dog's behavior when left alone and having your veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist take a look at it. Important would be to set your recording device with a clear view towards the area you exit and leave for a brief absence sticking nearby as you monitor him using a remote monitoring device so that you can come back quickly if he starts getting into trouble. 

Sadly, many dogs who are rescues suffer from this problem. It is not always clear if they were surrendered due to separation anxiety in the first place or if they go on to develop it due to trauma of being surrendered, creating a type of chicken-or-egg scenario.

In any case, if your dog has truly separation anxiety, this requires time and lots of baby steps to tackle. One of the most challenging parts of separation anxiety behavior modification is that it requires management when the dogs aren't in "training." This means that to "protect" the hard work and preventing dogs from rehearsing the problem behavior, absences should be avoided during the behavior modification process. Working from home and being retired offers therefore an advantage as mentioned as it allows to take turns going outside. 

 Helping a dog suffering from separation anxiety is not an easy task. Many dog owners wonder how long it will take and there's no easy answer as each case is different. The more a dog has been rehearsing the problem and the more severe it is, the more work may be needed. Severe cases may require the addition of medications (veterinarians are likely to prescribe them, if they feel it's needed). 

If separation anxiety is what your dog turns out having, here are some general protocols used for addressing this problem. It goes without saying, that each dog is different, so they may need a more individualized approach. 

What's needed?

Interactive toys, treats, food, a mat, baby gates and some technological gadgets such as remote monitoring devices and/or automatic treat dispensers are used in the exercises. Although optional, the use of these technological gadgets come extra handy considering that they allow to monitor dogs remotely so to evaluate whether it's a good time to raise criteria or whether a dog is being pushed too hard.

A safezone will also need to be established. This safezone is the dog's confinement area where the exercises will be performed. For comfort, it is best to use an area that is central to family activities such as an office, kitchen or living room. Dogs who enjoy their crate, exercise pen or playpen and love to lounge in it, can have it placed in the safezone as long as these enclosures remain open as some dogs with separation anxiety suffer from concomitant containment phobias. A safezone should be blocked out by a baby gate or in homes with open-plan layouts, a super wide gate may be needed.

Tier 1: Protocol For Dogs Who Follow Owners Room- to- Room

 

One thing many dogs suffering from separation anxiety share is extra clingliness, so much so, that many dog owners have started to nickname their dogs "Velcro Dogs." These dogs follow their owners from one room to another and like to sleep by their owners' feet so to be the first alerted when their owners are about to get up and walk around.

 

This component of treatment for separation anxiety in dogs needs its proper protocol since it would be non-productive starting practicing outdoor absences if these dogs aren't even able to tolerate brief absences within the home. The goal of these exercises is to gradually build on distance until the dog can be left in a room while the owner is in another.

 

On top of these exercises, it's ideal to encourage these dogs to sleep at night on their own bed or mat and sleep there as well during the day (rather than sleeping constantly on the owner's lap, glued to the owner's body or at the owner's feet).

 

Note: some dogs are particularly attached to one person. To start the exercises easily, it is best to start with the person the dog is less attached to and then progress using the person the dog is attached to.

 

Step 1:

 

The first step entails having the dog to be able to relax and cope without following their owners everywhere. These dogs need to learn to perform brief sit/stays or down/stays on a mat or other comfy place while the owner walks around, but initially remains always in the dog's sight.

 

Initially these sit/stays and down/stays should be very brief for just 1-2 seconds while the owner just takes a step or two away in various directions and then returns to reward. Criteria is then raised with the owner just walking a few steps away (3-4) and then returning to reward.

 

Gradually, distance and duration can be added, but it's important to make sure to not make increases in time and distance predictable as dogs will soon come to predict this increase in difficulty and may grow incrementally anxious. To avoid this, mix in shorter (less time) stays and closer stays (less distance) frequently. For example, 2 second stay, then 4, then 3, then five, then 1, then 4, then 6, then 2 etc or 2 steps away, then 1, then 3, then 4, then 1, etc.

 

Distractions at some point can be added as well. Clap your hands as you walk away, count to five out loud, turn your back to your dog, lift your arms, walk around your dog etc. If your dog ever breaks the stay just say a casual "oops" and send your dog back to the area where he was asked to stay. Resume the exercise, this time making it a bit less difficult before progressing to asking for more.

 

Many clingy dogs follow their owners every time they get up from sitting. If your dog gets ready to follow you every time you are sitting on a chair or couch, and you put your hand on the arm rest or put down the remote, practice sit/stays and down/stays as you repeat these actions over and over. Then increase criteria, and start to get up repeatedly from your chair/couch/. Then get up and take a few steps and may be even walk around your dog and go back to sitting.

 

These exercises should be done until fluent and the dog appears totally relaxed and no longer eager to follow. End the sessions with a jackpot of treats.

 

Step 2:

 

Gradually increase distance/duration. With longer duration, it's best to request down/stays to prevent tiring. Take more steps away (from standing or sitting) and for gradually longer times and start going out of sight.

 

Ask your dog to down/stay on a mat as you briefly get out of view behind a wall or door for a split second, then return and reward. Repeat several times as you gradually mix in shorter absences and longer absences and shorter distances with farther distances, making sure to not allow you dog to detect an incremental pattern of difficulty.

 

You can mix in brief errands too such as opening/closing a closet, grabbing a beer from the fridge or closing a window as long as they don't cause you to be out of sight for too long.

 

These exercises should be done until fluent and the dog appears totally relaxed. Always end the sessions with a jackpot of treats.

 

Step 3:

 

Increase more the distance and duration. Install a baby gate, hide several treats around the enclosed area, send your dog there and have your dog explore his new confinement area and find the goodies. Leave the baby gate open for a couple of days so that the dog can freely visit and discover goodies in there.

 

Next, practice briefs stays as you get in and out of the baby gate and return. Stay always in sight. Gradually increase the time you stay out as always mixing in briefer stays with longer ones, but not more than a minute in length.

 

At some point, get out of the baby gate and start preparing a stuffed Kong that can be easily unstuffed in just a minute or so. Place the stuffed Kong behind the baby gate where your dog can see it and smell it and cannot get it. Your dog should try to get the Kong. Wait for a little bit of frustration to set in such as your dog trying to paw it or whine. Grab the Kong and give it to your dog as you remain in view at a distance behind the baby gate for 1 minute. Return inside.

 

Repeat, reloading the Kong again making it more challenging to unstuff and then less challenging, so that you can increase the the time you stay out as always mixing in briefer stays with longer ones. Try to return when you know your dog is just about to finish unstuffing his Kong.

 

Step 4:

 

Start incorporating the treasure hunt game, using a portion of your dog's meals as outlined in the course. Have your dog sit/stay or down/stay as you get a portion of your dog's meal allowance and hide the kibble around. Have your dog watch you in anticipation and then as you leave the room and release your dog. Allow your dog to hunt as you are briefly out of sight.

 

Return and repeat the exercise hiding the remaining portion of your dog's meal allowance and leaving as your dog goes on his hunt. As always, gradually increase the time you stay out of sight, mixing in briefer stays with longer ones, but not more than a minute in length.

 

Alternatively, in lieu of the treasure hunt game, you can stuff a slow food dispenser such as a Kong Wobbler, Buster Cube or regular Kong with the kibble and let your dog work on it while you are away.

 

At some point, start delaying your returns a bit so that your dog has finished hunting or eating from the Kong but doesn't appear to anxious about running out of food and being alone.

Tier 2: Protocol for Uncoupling Pre-Departure Cues

Dogs are masters in reading body language and learning all the cues that culminate into our departures. It's therefore not surprising when they start acting nervous when dog owners get up, have breakfast, and then put on makeup, shave, brush hair, put shoes on and grab the keys. These are all pre-departure cues that put dogs on high alarm, as these cues have been chained one to another and associated with departures.

 

Uncoupling these associations requires some work. The work encompasses desensitizing to the pre-departure cues and breaking up their associations with the departures. These exercises are done when not leaving the home. Make sure that you therefore have time set aside for this.

 

To start, compile a list of behaviors you perform normally when going to work or head out and identify the ones your dog seems to react to. Then, place them in order chronologically, starting with the one that is farthest away from leaving the house.

 

You will then work on exposing your dog to these behaviors starting with the first and then chaining them one by one until the dog becomes uninterested in them as they lose value due to them no longer leading to departures. For instance, if your list looks something like this: put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys and walk out the door, your exercises will look something like this: (please note, sit on the couch/watch TV is an example, you can do many other things that your dog associates with you being home like knitting, washing the dishes etc.)

 

Put on shoes, sit on the couch, watch TV (when you sit down and watch TV or read a book or go prepare a meal, do so for a few minutes each time)

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, sit on the couch, watch TV

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on the couch, watch TV

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, sit on the couch, watch TV

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door slightly, close door, sit on the couch watch TV

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, then back in, close door, return, sit on the couch watch TV

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on couch, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door (with you outside), quickly reopen door, close door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on couch, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door (with you outside), lock the door, unlock the door, return, sit on couch watch TV.

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door (with you outside), and increase duration of staying outside gradually, but for no more than half a minute (always mixing in shorter absences in the midst of longer ones), then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

 

Note: If your dog seems upset by any of these behaviors, you may need to split them further. For example, if your dog is doing well up until you start opening the door (like you catch your dog whining), then, you may want to split the action of walking to the door in further segments (e.g take a few steps towards the door, return, sit on couch, then, walk to the door and stand in front of it, return, sit on the couch, then, walk to the door and touch the knob for a split second, return, sit on the couch, then walk to the door and open the door a bit for a split second, return, sit on the couch. Do this until the door can be successfully opened without the dog worrying about it.

 

Tier 3: Exercises by the Door

 

Monitor your dog for signs of distress

These exercises are more difficult, and therefore, require dogs to be very well proficient at the previous tier level. Dogs should therefore have reached a point where they are fine with being left alone for up to half a minute as the owner stands behind the closed door.

 

Because these absences are longer and more distractions are added (car engine starting), it helps to provide some high-value long-lasting goodies for the dog to consume such as a strategically stuffed Kong with layers (e.g a layer of cookies stuck at the bottom, kibble mixed with peanut butter, a cookie stuck midway, canned food, another cookie at the top). For longer absences, on top of a Kong, an automatic treat-dispenser set to release treats at frequent intervals can turn helpful.

 

When providing goodies to consume for these absences, it's important to provide them as well while you are at home to prevent them from turning into a pre-departure cue signaling to your dog you are about to leave.

 

At this point, it may also be important to use some form of remote monitoring so to assess how the dog is doing and keep tabs on progress and/or setbacks. Body language should be carefully assessed. Anytime a setback is noticed, it means that one must work more on a lower level until the dog is perfectly comfortable with that level.

 

For example, if the dog becomes anxious upon being left alone for 8 minutes, more time should be spent practicing at lower times. Increments should be done in seconds rather then chunks of minutes always mixing in briefer times to make the exercises as variable as possible. Build the time gradually up to 30 minutes if possible.

 

Arrivals should always be no big deal. Ignore your dog as you walk in and just go straight to the couch.

 

Example of exercises:

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, spend a bit of time in the car, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, move the car a bit ahead and then back into parking space, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

 

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, drive the car around the block and then back into parking space, then unlock the door return, sit on the couch watch TV and so forth. Gradually increase more time spent away, mixing in shorter absences.

A Word About Treatment For Separation in Anxiety in Dogs

It's important to consider that slow and steady wins the race in behavior modification. It will take time, commitment and determination to attain results. The goal is to get a dog to be calm and reward that. Setbacks are always possible during behavior modification no matter how well planned the program. To reduce the chances of setbacks, it is best to perform separation anxiety exercises with the help of a professional for in-person evaluations and coaching. Once the dog appears calm in the safezone, it's time to generalize the behavior and practice in other areas of the house and with other family members.

Finally, remember that separation anxiety is often misdiagnosed and there can be other issues at play. Just to have an idea google " dog separation anxiety the great imitator," and you'll find an article divided in 4 parts written by a veterinary behaviorist doing an in-depth list of all the potential "differentials. "

I will be posting about the car issue in my next post. 

[Adrienne]

Anxiety when left alone in the car: 

These  guidelines are once again general, and in the assumption he may be really suffering from separation anxiety (which should be diagnosed by a professional who would then provide an individualized plan). So this is just an example:

Desensitize your dog to being left alone. The good thing about anxiety in the car is that usually one doesn't leave for too long. So this works to an advantage. To help your dog cope, you would therefore have to start with very brief absences (like just 1-2 seconds) and keep coming back making sure to not cause your dog to go over threshold. You can read more about threshold levels here;

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/

In your dog panics the moment you close the car door, you may therefore have to just start by walking around the car  and entering it repeatedly before progressing to leaving out of sight.  Repeat several times until she seems comfortable with that. Then gradually increase criteria, by increasing distance a bit, maybe walking in a larger circle around the car and then coming back. Once she's OK with that, you can start walking farther away in one direction, but then coming right back. Then move on to briefly being out of sight for a second but coming back. 

Important: Keep increasing gradually distance and duration, but make sure to also mix in shorter and briefer absences into the mix so that your dog doesn't panic because she senses the increase in difficulty. 

Create Positive Associations 

When you work on desensitizing your dog to your brief absences, it's also important to create positive associations with them, by giving your dog some super duper high-value treats to give while you leave. Make it clear that the treats are given contingent upon your leaving. Be careful: if you leave for too long and get your dog over threshold, your dog may come to associate the treats with you leaving and may start refusing them. This is why it's so important having a professional help out to ensure the dog stays always under threshold. 

Ideally, it may help if your dog is trained to start eating when you tell her it's OK to. Simply place the treat in front of him, move away and right before going out of sight, tell her it's OK to start eating. Estimate how long it will take your dog to eat the treat and strategically come back when he's done eating (alternatively remotely monitor him). 

As you make your absences slightly longer, you can try giving treats that are slightly bigger or that take longer to eat. For example, a stuffed Kong or a Lick mat smeared with some peanut butter or canned food may work out. 

If your dog is too stressed to take treats, then that means he's too over threshold and you'll have to split the exercise into easier steps. Take a few steps back and make your absences shorter until he's fine with that before increasing the level of difficulty. 

At some point, you may be able to go to a store to make a quick purchase and come back to a dog who is relaxed and just finished enjoying a goodie.

Graduation time: go to a drive-through. Once your dog gives signs of tolerating your longer absence it's time to pat yourself both on the back and celebrate on your next outing. Go with your dog through a drive-through and get yourself and your dog something high value like a burger (if it's safe for him to have that). Let the burger release the tasty aroma for the drive and build your dog's appetite anticipation. Then eat your burger nearby your dog letting him watch you and making him hungry. Then get ready to run your quick errand in a store and give your dog the burger only (or a portion of it depending on your dog's size) to eat while you're away. Time how long he may take and come back around that time. 

Use remote monitoring: to further kick things up a notch and know how your buddy is doing, invest in some remote monitoring gadget to watch how your dog is doing while you are in the store. This offers you the advantage of knowing when you can return. Nowadays, technology has gone a long way. There are even great cameras that allow you to talk to your dog and even deliver goodies while you are away. One such camera is the Furbo camera, which has rave reviews from many dog owners.

Consider Calming Aids. There are several calming aids on the market that can help dogs who are anxious about being left alone. Here are a few ideas:

-Leave your dog with an article of clothing that smells like you (even better, a bit stinky, so check your laundry basket). Leave your clothing only if you're absolutely sure your dog doesn't ingest it or eat parts of it. 

-Play some calming music when you must leave the car. There are several CDs made to calm down dogs. Through a Dog's Ear, is one of them. On top of calming dogs down, music can help buffer outside noises. 

-Try a calming shirt. These are snug-fitting shirts meant to apply pressure to various pressure points, creating a sensation similar to swaddling a baby. A popular brand is Thundershirt which can also be used to treat car anxiety and separation anxiety. 

-Experiment with pheromone-based aids. These are synthetic versions of special chemicals that helps calm and soothe dogs. You can find them under the form of sprays (spritz some on your dog's blanket prior to car travel) and collars. 

-Consider calming supplements. Some mild cases may benefit from some calming supplements that are sold over the counter. Examples include Vetriscience Composure, NaturVet Quiet Moments and  Zesty Paws Calming Bites. 

-Moderate to severe cases may require the intervention of a dog behavior professional. It goes without saying that in some cases, the anxiety be just too much and the dog may refuse food and be unable to relax no matter how hard we try. Seeking the aid of dog behavior professional such as board-certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) or a Certified Applied Animal Behavior Consultant (CAAB) would be important. These professionals can guide you through the correct implementation of behavior modification and may also prescribe medications to help lower your dog's threshold so that it becomes easier to work with them. 

I hope this helps,

Please let me know if you have any other questions,

Best,

Adrienne