New rescue dog starting to show problematic behaviours

[DEANNA POLSOM]

Hi there, I just purchased the training so haven’t gotten a start to it yet, but I adopted my rescue dog 6 days ago and it seems that as she gets more comfortable, the more problem behaviours are emerging. I already have 2 other dogs, and the new one has started showing resource guarding of the bed and toys, humping the other two dogs sporadically, and very pushy attention seeking behaviour. My main focus is keeping all the dogs safe and I’m feeling a little overwhelmed with all the new problems surfacing. Is this normal for a rescue dog? She came from a bad background so I expected some problems, but resource guarding is something I’ve never really had to handle. Im going to start the training today, but just wondering if others had the same experience. 

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Hi there!

Welcome to the forums,

There is such a thing known as the "honeymoon period." During this time, a newly adopted dog acts in his/her best behavior, and then as he or she gets more comfortable, they start showing their "true colors," so to say. 

Safety is paramount, so during this acclimatation period, you may want to keep your dogs separated. Here are some general guidelines when adding a new dog:

  https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/introduce-dog-new-dog/

What breeds are your dogs and what are their ages?

What breed and age is your new dog?

What do you mean when you say she comes from a bad background?

What pushy attention-seeking behavior are you seeing? Is it towards you or your other dogs?

When your new dog guarded resources towards your other dogs and your other two dogs were humped, how did they react?

Are your other two dogs trained?

 

[DEANNA POLSOM]

-my two original dogs are both corgi x lab, ages 9 and 14. The new one (Shiloh) is a basset x lab, age 3. 
 

-shiloh came from a hoarding situation where she was likely living outside most of her life with dozens of other dogs. She came to me incredibly timid and shut down, but has since been quite attached to me and showing more personality, though she won’t go near anyone else. 
 

-shiloh follows me around constantly, everywhere except the bathroom. I can leave her alone for that or if I go outside without her getting overly anxious, but she seems to always be vying for attention to the point of pushing the other dogs out of the way. When she’s excited, she likes to get in the other dogs faces to the point they start growling, though she isn’t being aggressive. 
 

-when shiloh was resource guarding, it never got past the point where she was raising her lips before I intervened and got the other dogs from her space so they didn’t have an opportunity to react, but the 9 year old would likely get reactive if she’s snapped at. When they were about to be humped, both of them growled at shiloh, but she wasn’t picking up on their cues and I’ve had to intervene to tell shiloh “off” so it didn’t progress to snapping. 
 

-my original two are trained, they’ve had the same consistent routine for multiple years now, and rarely if ever have issues with each other. Shiloh is kept separated from the other 2 if no one is home, at least for the next few weeks while everyone is still acclimating. 
 

shiloh hasn’t really shown any aggression otherwise besides a couple irritated lip raises when they get in her space while she’s resting, but I’ve never really had the issue of resource guarding and as my 9 year old can be reactive sometimes, I want to nip the issue soon. I also feel I may be developing a case of “post-puppy blues”, which is making me extra anxious, overwhelmed, and frustrated all around. 
 

 

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Thanks for the extra details, they are very helpful!

Coming from a hoarding situation with other dogs, she must have learned to guard/compete for stuff in order to get her space and food allotment. These situations are sad because affected dogs aren't given the opportunity to flourish and develop to their full potential. I am glad to hear that she is no in good hands and finally getting the level of attention and care she needs.

So to answer your question, ( wondering if others had the same experience) you'll find on the forums several situations similar to yours. The addition of a third dog isn't without some sort of challenges. Often the challenges involve squabbles over some type of resource like food, toys or sleeping areas. 

In these cases, we need to practice management and take steps to to prevent dogs from being put into the position of feeling stress. 

Management-wise, you would want to remove access to toys when your new dog is around and provide toys only privately. In other words, in an area away from your other dogs.  Dogs who tend to guard stuff rehearse the problematic behavior over and over, and practice makes perfect.

Since growling/stiffening works to keep the other dogs away, dog who guard will feel the need to always do that, and the behavior tends to also escalate over time, especially if the other dogs don't move away.

Management therefore helps prevent Shiloh from rehearsing the problematic behavior, and also prevents her from being tense due to the presence of other dogs, protects your other dogs from feeling tense too, while also keeping them safe. 

You also need to train fluent cues so that your other dogs learn to respect Shiloh's need for space when she's resting (for example "leave it"https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/). Leave it can come helpful too when you notice your new dog starting to engage with your dogs in problematic ways (humping, pushing other dogs) however, this takes time to train fluently, and if you have to say it repeatedly because she's very persistent in pestering your dogs, it may be simpler to keep her separated and give your dogs a break (it can get stressful for them and persistent pestering will only create negative associations in the long term). 

It's also far easier to simply separate your new dog so that she can take her naps undisturbed. Lack of sleep is one of the most significant causes for crankiness and persistent nipping, humping and other undesirable behaviors. 

Several more tips on this are covered here:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/introduce-dog-new-dog/

If she's persistently trying to get attention from you, here is a guide, but it's mostly for very mild cases :https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dogs-fighting-over-owner/

[DEANNA POLSOM]

Thank you for all the information, it’s all very much appreciated. We’ve already started working through your behaviour training and the preschool brain games, and already there’s such improvement in her trust of me and willingness to participate. 
 

I think we had a little bit of a breakthrough yesterday regarding the humping, as I let it go on a little longer than I had been to give my 14 year old a chance to voice her displeasure, but after the initial jump on the back, shiloh got off and was attempting to play with her. It’s still not good of course, since the 14 year old doesn’t appreciate being jumped on, but I’m glad to see it seems more of a play behaviour than a stress or dominance issue. I’m glad she’s getting comfortable enough to attempt to play with the other 2 considering how timid she was when she first came, but we’ll work on her cues to leave them be when they aren’t interested. 

Definitely going to do some separated play time now, thank you for that suggestion. Shiloh likes the idea of toys but hasn’t quite figured out what to do with them, so maybe some peace will give her a chance to explore comfortably. 
 

I asked a friend of mine who has a pack of 7 dogs herself about resource guarding treats and what she does, she she suggested giving a longer lasting treat with all dogs present in the room, though not directly next to each other, with me in between all 3 so that if any try to approach shiloh while she’s eating, I am there to intervene. She said it’s a good way to show shiloh that I will intervene on her behalf, and that she does not need to react. What do you think of this idea? I regularly have all 3 girls in a line right next to each other to get bite sized treats and there’s been no issues or aggression, and there’s no aggression at feeding time, so I wonder if this is a good technique for showing her that she can comfortably have her treats without fear the other dogs will touch? 

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Thank you for all the information, it’s all very much appreciated. We’ve already started working through your behaviour training and the preschool brain games, and already there’s such improvement in her trust of me and willingness to participate. 

Your are very welcome! I am glad to hear that you are seeing signs of improvement already. Establishing trust is vital for these newly adopted dogs, especially when they have some "baggage."

I think we had a little bit of a breakthrough yesterday regarding the humping, as I let it go on a little longer than I had been to give my 14 year old a chance to voice her displeasure, but after the initial jump on the back, shiloh got off and was attempting to play with her. It’s still not good of course, since the 14 year old doesn’t appreciate being jumped on, but I’m glad to see it seems more of a play behaviour than a stress or dominance issue. I’m glad she’s getting comfortable enough to attempt to play with the other 2 considering how timid she was when she first came, but we’ll work on her cues to leave them be when they aren’t interested. 

Be careful with this. Being older, your 14-year-old dog may not be able to communicate effectively her "leave me alone" signs or she may not be able to move away as quickly as needed. This may lead to negative feelings, and possibly, a snap or bite that may seem to come out of the blue. An older dog may also have a "shorter fuse" when it comes to patience. 

In general, adult and older dogs (especially dogs over the age of five) may no longer be interested in engaging in rambunctious play as they used to in the past. Some older dogs may even suffer from orthopedic problems, and the last thing they want to endure is being pestered by a dog with poor social skills/ too much energy.

It's therefore important for older dogs to have a "safe zone" to retreat to without being constantly pestered by an energetic young dog. It may be best to allow interactions only once the young dog has already been exercised so that there's no bouncing off the walls.

Things can get particularly stressful for older dogs who haven't been socialized much with younger dogs in the past or who simply haven't been around young dogs for quite some time. Hence, the importance of establishing some boundaries.

Boundary-wise, there are several options. You can use a baby gate, x-pen, or a room to allow safe separation and allow your resident dogs time to relax and unwind from the overstimulation. You can also keep your new addition tethered (using a harness, not a collar) to something stable  and safe so that your older dogs are free to decide when to interact and then be free to leave. Of course, do this only if she's been acclimatized to wearing a harness/ leash.

Depending on several factors, these may be temporary or permanent solutions.

Once the dogs seem more and more comfortable around one another, they can share some time indoors, but indoors requires more caution considering that some locations or tight passages may lead to noisy squabbles or even fights. Not to mention, there may be guarding behaviors if toys or other resources are left around, which brings us to the next topic: the importance of keeping these out of reach if they lead to problems.

During the introductory period, it's important to minimize the chances for squabbles. This means keeping toys out of the way, feeding dogs at a distance or in separate areas, not allowing the younger dog to steal your older dog's favorite sleeping spots, not giving attention to the newest dog when the older dogs can see or hear all the fuss. These can lead to competition and  we don't want to add more stress to an already stressful situation and cause the new dog to assume negative connotations: "Not only is this new dog invading our home, but she is also trying to steal our toys, resting spots and is getting more attention than us!"

Some time is needed for the older dogs to habituate to the new addition. Each dog is different, and therefore it's best to work at the dogs' pace. Generally, it takes more time for older dogs to acclimate to young dogs compared to younger dogs. It may take weeks or even months for dogs to start feeling comfortable around each other. Make sure you maintain your older dog’s regular routines.

If your older dog appears tense or has a history of anxiety with changes, it may be a good idea to invest in some calming aids such as DAP collar or DAP diffusers. These products work best if introduced days prior to the new dogs' arrival so that they have time to become effective.

As the days go by, there should be less tension among the dogs. If the older dogs initially showed signs of stress such as growling when the new dog moved around or vocalized, these episodes should be reducing with time. Feeding your older dogs treats or kibble every time they hear Shiloh move or vocalize when behind a baby gate or other barrier, may speed up the acclimatization process as they associate the new dog with good things. The same can be done with Shiloh if you have a helper.

Definitely going to do some separated play time now, thank you for that suggestion. Shiloh likes the idea of toys but hasn’t quite figured out what to do with them, so maybe some peace will give her a chance to explore comfortably. 

It's not unusual for some rescued dogs to appear to not know what to do with toys. Some may even find them a bit intimidating.  Using easy food puzzles may encourage them to interact as does praising any signs of investigation/interest towards the toys. 

I asked a friend of mine who has a pack of 7 dogs herself about resource guarding treats and what she does, she she suggested giving a longer lasting treat with all dogs present in the room, though not directly next to each other, with me in between all 3 so that if any try to approach shiloh while she’s eating, I am there to intervene. She said it’s a good way to show shiloh that I will intervene on her behalf, and that she does not need to react. What do you think of this idea? I regularly have all 3 girls in a line right next to each other to get bite sized treats and there’s been no issues or aggression, and there’s no aggression at feeding time, so I wonder if this is a good technique for showing her that she can comfortably have her treats without fear the other dogs will touch? 

We need to be caution with such approach. Here's the thing; with resource guarding dogs, they need to feel safe and it's fundamental keeping them under threshold. Every dog has different threshold levels. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/

A longer lasting treat, is often perceived as very valuable (the dog often needs to lie down and may feel also vulnerable doing so) so this may up the chances for a dog to be protective. This is the opposite of what is done with systematic behavior modification procedures. In these cases, one starts by giving lowest value treats working up to the higher value ones very gradually.

On top of this, with systematic behavior modification procedure for tackling resource guarding, it's imperative to have great control over the situation. If the other older dogs approach while she's eating, she'll likely feel the need to protect herself and this allows her to feel tense/threatened. In a good systematic behavior procedure, we try our best to prevent these negative feelings.

Sure, you are there to intervene, but we don't know how she may perceive your intervention. It could come across as '' the other dogs are bad, and my owner backs me up" which can trigger in her more defensive behavior and a sense of helplessness (even taking the matter in her own hands) when you are not around.

In some cases, backing the dog up in this way, may lead to a dog who guards the owner ("when the other "bad' dogs approach us, we are both a team so I will back up my owner when they approach).

Usually behavior modification protocols for resource guarding in multiple dog households entails lots of management and the use desensitization and counterconditioning.

Desensitization consists of systematic, low level of intensity exposures that do not evoke the problematic behavior.https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/

Counterconditioning consists of creating positive associations with the other dogs approaching (in other words, every time a dog approaches, I get something good so it's nice to have dogs nearby, rather than every time a dog approaches I feel threatened). https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/

The goal is creating what's know as a positive conditioned emotional response, where the dog looks forward to other dogs near rather than dread their approach and feel stressed. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/conditioned-emotional-response-cer/

Of course, by all means, we need to have a plan in place in case something not under out control happens, and it's therefore helpful to have the other dogs trained to respond to a cue ( like "leave it/off") that reminds them to leave the eating dog alone. However, this approach is more of a back-up plan for an "oops moment" rather than the heart of behavior modification.

On top of this, we need to make safety top priority. If something were happen that is out of our control, we are right there in the middle, and if we try to separate fighting dogs by yelling or grabbing collars we are at risk for a redirected bite.

In other words, if this was a real case of resource guarding that would need to be tackled, it would likely be tackled as follows (this is just an example, every case requires an individualized plan).

1) Minimizing the chances for the resource guarding dog to practice the behavior and therefore preventing strengthening those feelings of stress. Resource guarding is often triggered and exacerbated by stress. Poor management in a multi dog household increases stress and may lead to conflicts. Management, such as feeding times with the dogs separated and at a safe distance enough to prevent unnecessary stress (using baby gates/exercise pen) is priority. 

2) Adding layers of protection (physical barriers, tethers, muzzles https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-your-dog-to-wear-a-muzzle/)

3) Working initially using low value treats/items (that is, from the dog's perspective, not ours) then moving gradually towards higher ones only once the dog has been reliably manifesting signs of improvement.

4) Taking small steps in a systematic matter so rather than both older dogs being present at once, one would start with one dog at a time, preferably starting with the one the guarding dog seems to manifest more affiliative than defensive behaviors.

5) Ensuring the dog is under threshold and therefore the other dog would be at a distance, keeping the resource guarder under threshold

6) Having a good knowledge of subtle signs of stress so to consistently gauge the dog's body language and quickly recognize signs of the dog going over threshold so to make adjustments. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dogs-dont-bite-blue/

7) Creating positive associations with the presence of other dogs through systematic exposures. This may start by having two dogs on leash. The resource guarder is provided with something that is low value. Every time the other dog is walked by at a distance from which the guarder doesn't react, she is given something great to eat. Implemented correctly, this helps change the guarders' attitude, from dreading the other dog coming near to looking forward to it.

Basically, from "Oh no! I don't want you to steal my toy, go away!” the  guarding dog should start thinking something along the lines of  “Hey you! Come a little closer, would you? I adore it when you come closer to me and my toy because that's when I get baked liver!"

Once obtained a lovely positive conditioned emotional response, one can begin to move the dogs very gradually closer together (always ensuring threshold levels are respected). 

8  ) Having back-up plans and cues to rely on, such as teaching the non-guarding dogs to move away/leave it/ hang out in a different location when the resource guarder is in possession of a resource. This can prevent altercations in the event that the guarder finds a food item unexpectedly and the dogs aren't separated as they should during feedings. 

9) Acknowledging that while desensitization coupled with counterconditioning may work to an extent, without management and the dogs demonstrating a good level of deference/fluent response to verbal cues, there is always some level of risk.

Management therefore remains the top primary recommendation because it's the safest option, but some training comes handy too because real life happens. It's nice to know that should somebody accidentally drop some food on the ground, the other dogs are trained to come to you instead of getting in the way of a potentially guarding dog. 

For management when given long-lasting treats, dogs can always be tethered, crated or placed in separate rooms when being fed. Dogs can be fed these in the bathroom, inside crates or tethered to a couch leg.

Feeding separated is therefore the best and safest option unless committed to doing lots of micromanaging and counter conditioning under the guidance of a professional. If separation to other areas isn't possible, tethers (always under supervision) can help add a layer of protection so that no dogs are put into the position of making mistakes and approaching each other. 

It's important to understand that every time a dog growls, snarls or snaps at another dog, there is some level of learning going on. The growling dog may learn to feel more nervous (this confirms to them there is really a threat) and since the other dogs may back away, they also learn that the behavior worked. If we get angry and scold the dogs, we  risk further exacerbating things, proving to our dogs that every time another dog approaches when they have their chewie, bad stuff happens.

So there are several elements of risks in allowing dogs to rehearse problematic behaviors, (and even if a dog no longer growls, they may still feel stress internally) so if we want to work on the issue using behavior modification, this requires a certain level of skill and finesse in reading the dogs for signs of stress, knowing when to progress and how much, and doing all in the name of safety. Progress made can be easily lost when moving from a lower value item to a higher value one, or a farther distance to a closer one, is not enough precaution is taken. This is why behavior modification should be conducted under the guidance of a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation.  

Management therefore remains a valid alternative to behavior modification although it can be also used in conjunction with behavior modification. Through management we prevent mishaps, prevent rehearsal of problematic behaviors (when we can control thing such as access to foods/ toys/ resting spots). 

A Word About Feeding Dogs Together

When dogs are fed together, it's important that there is enough space among them and no stress. It may be stressful for older dogs to share their space with new younger dog, especially if not respectful of space or intolerant of other dogs near the bowl.

It may be best and safest to reserve initial feedings to separated areas (using baby gates/exercise pens). Since the new dog can still see/hear the other dogs nearby past the barrier, this time fed separated also offers a good chance to assess/observe behaviors when being fed. 

When dogs are more comfortable, it may be possible to then use tethers that allow freedom to move, but without the dogs being able to reach each other. There should be no posturing or attempting to steal the other dog's food. If any dog thinks about approaching another dog, it should be prevented immediately with a "leave it". This needs to be taught at a very fluent level to each dog individually and then in presence of another dog and then in a group.

If a dog tends to finish a meal earlier, there are chances he or she may be tempted to walk around. This can be perceived as threatening by the other dogs who are still finishing eating. It may be helpful to therefore either provide the faster eating dog with a food bowl designed for fast eaters (slow feeder bowl) or training him to hold a down stay and wait for the rest to finish. All dogs can be taught to actually hold a down stay after finishing eating and they can then be each individually rewarded with a treat as their bowls are collected (this is also a good way to *prevent* empty-bowl guarding behaviors towards humans as the bowl is swapped for a treat).

All dogs deserve to feel safe when they are eating. Giving space and not allowing any interferences is paramount. Dogs should be taught that  eyeing or thinking about stealing another dog's dinner is not allowed. Close supervision is important and well- trained dogs quickly learn that such infractions are not allowed, and will get the message by us just giving them a certain look, but  in some cases, we may need to step in and use a body block to discourage any advances.

If there are cases though of resource guarding, it's best to simply play it safe and feed each dog in separate areas or safely tethered, out of reach from one another. It's not worth it to put convenience over safety and take any chances. 

I hope this helps, keep us posted.

Happy training!

Best,

Adrienne

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog shows signs of potential aggression (lunging, barking, growling, snapping, biting) for safety, please consult with a dog behavior professional who uses force-free behavior modification techniques (no shock, prongs, or physical corrections) for direct in-person guidance. Articles, videos and general info found in the forums or course (or any online source) are not meant to replace in-person training/instruction. By using this course and forum, you are waiving any liability claims or other type of claims related to any dogs' behavior against you or others.