Adrienne

Dogs living together do tend to develop such relationships. There is generally one who sounds the alarm and takes the more alert role, while the other one acts more as a back-up as needed. This may change though with time as your pup develops and gains more confidence. It does sound like she feels more secure in the home, and many dogs find going potty on snow somewhat aversive or intimidating. On top of the cold sensation, when it snows, it's as if the world has transformed overnight from a dog's perspective. Its surface and its smell, has been altered which some dogs may find unsettling. They may also no longer readily smell where they have pottied the day prior if there is a large accumulation of snow overnight. It's great that she goes potty when you tell her to go on the pads, this suggests that she has made the association between your cue and going potty so that you can use cue that to your advantage as needed. With several reps followed by praise and reward, you should see an increase in going potty when asked to, eventually regardless of the surface.

That's awesome! Not easy at all with deer being so close! That's the enthusiastic type of recalls I am always after. Keep up the great work!

Hello and welcome back! I have responded in regards to your dog's barking issue in a previous thread. Have you tried any of the the methods outlined there? Here was my previous response in case you have missed it:

Hello and welcome to the forums, I am so sorry to hear that your pup's behavior has changed so drastically after doing a board and train where a prong collar was involved! It is difficult to predict how things will unfold not knowing exactly what happened during the training. What were the initial problems that prompted a visit to such trainer/trainers? When was he picked up from board and training? How long has this been occurring? Did the trainer provide any details of what was done during the board and train? Have you reported the behavior changes to the trainer? When you claim he lunges and bites unpredictably, can you provide some information about what you were doing in all those instances or what was happening right before at that time? I know you said this happens unpredictably, but sometimes there may be little details that can provide an insight into what may be evoking the behavior. The more details, the better. Thanks

Hi Marilyn, I am glad that she is improving her recall skills, kudos to you for working so diligently on it! If she goes outside and then comes back in and goes to potty straight on the potty pads, that suggests to me that she has a strong substrate preference to using the potty pads. Puppies around the age of 7 1/2 to 8 1/2 weeks tend to develop a preference for a surface on which to potty and this preference sort of tends to "stick" with them so that they'll prefer that surface to potty compared to other places. This can be because the breeder used pee pads when in her care or you may have inculcated a preference for them by praising and rewarding her for using them and of course it can be a combo of both. This is, of course, a good thing, as it helps pups throughout the potty training process as they learn to not soil around the house. It also can be though that when she's outside, she doesn't think much about going potty because of the many distractions (smells, sights, sounds) and she remembers she has to potty only once she's back inside. It can also be she doesn't feel too safe to potty outdoors especially if there are scary sounds or maybe smells of other animals around. However, on the plus side, it's actually great that she goes on the pee pads once back inside, because many pups will pee/poop right on the floor once back inside and many owners struggle with this! So this tells me that you have done a great job in getting her to use pee pads. Now, if you want her to potty outside, when given the opportunity, you can try the following and see how it works: -You can try to take a pee pad with some urine on it (so it she can smell and recognize it as her bathroom area) and place it nearby the door and see if she'll use that while out. You can praise her and reward for using it. This may or may not work depending on how safe or unsafe she feels outdoors and whether she can generalize using the pads indoors to outdoors. -You can schedule her outdoor trips to when she's more likely to go potty (when she hasn't gone for some time and you're pretty sure she has to go) to to up her chances for success. First thing in the morning is a good time to start training her to use a different substrate. -Another option is to train her to go potty on command so that you can remind her to potty regardless of substrate. This takes time to master, but it can turn advantageous in many ways: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/potty-on-command/ Consider though that sometimes, things can get confusing when dogs are trained both indoors and outdoors and it may happen that the dog may stop wanting to use the indoor pads in preference for the outdoors.

Hello and welcome to the forums! Welcome to the puppy nipping stage. In a 16-week pup, this is very normal. The behavior won't stop overnight, but you can ameliorate the situation by engaging your puppy in games that he'll find more rewarding to engage in rather than just nipping our hand/feet/ ankles/pant legs. Here is a guide with several games to redirect your puppy: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/ In particular, I like to encourage hand targeting to encourage positive interactions with hands. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/targeting/ Other tips for nipping that come to mind: - You can engage him with toys that add movement into the game such as a tennis ball tossed in the opposite direction (make it extra fun!) or a flirt pole (stick with a stuffed animal attached one end). The goal is to find a way to make these toys much more interesting, rewarding and fun to interact with than your body/clothing. I like to carry some tennis balls in my pocket and a flirt pole around my waist so I can use these tools at moment's notice. -You can redirect to an interactive game with you. I like to keep kibble always in my treat bag/pocket ready for this. As soon as he approaches you, ask him for a sit and reward by tossing one piece of kibble/treat. He'll likely eat it and come for more if he perceives them as valuable enough. Repeat several times, catching him always before he even has the chance to think of biting. This makes your dog tired, provides an outlet for chasing instincts while you incorporate some fun obedience. Here is how to train sit, which is an incompatible behavior compared with biting (a dog in general cannot sit and bite ankles/pant legs at the same time). Initially, as your dog is still in the process of learning to sit, you can just toss the treat without asking for a sit as soon as he approaches you. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/sit/ -Alternatively you can redirect to an empty water bottle with no lid filled up. Most pups cannot resist the crinkling sounds produced by chewing on these. They make an economical. temporary chew toy. Always monitor your dog when chewing if your dog tends to ingest things and consider that excess chewing can make some parts sharp. To make the bottle even more interesting, fill it up with a portion of your puppy's daily ratio of kibble so your puppy will keep busy trying to roll the kibble out. You can read more about this fun game here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/high-school/the-bottle-game/ -Make sure you provide outlets for pent-up energy. Games, training, exercise and opportunities for socialization should wear him out and provide outlets for her basic needs. With brain games that allowing him to chase things and get rewards out of them (like kibble out of a bottle or a in a Kong Wobbler) he should seek these games more and more which can turn ankles pretty boring after a while because he gets more out of these activities when he's bored/frustrated/overstimulated. -Don't forget to train your pup some bite inhibition. This is a very important skill. A good exercise to train this using treats is here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/train-dog-take-treats-gently/ The main goal in getting a dog to stop biting arms/hands/ankles/pant legs is to teach that it's boring playing with them because there are far better forms of play out there that don't involve human body parts. So move less and make your toys move more. Wriggle them, toss them, provide toys that release food. With their strong urge to bite and play satiated with other forms of play, soon, puppies should outgrow the habit of chasing ankles/pantlegs just as they outgrow the habit of chasing their tails. You may have to try several of the above options and see what works best. Redirection to a rewarding treat-dispensing toy or game that uses treats should be moderately easy at this age if these activities are made rewarding. Teaching an alternate behavior is also important because dogs cannot misbehave if they are busy targeting our hands or sitting! It may take a bit of time though to teach these alternate behaviors fluently, but it is sure worth the time and effort. By providing outlets for his energy and needs for mental stimulation and reinforcing appropriate behaviors, you should eventually start seeing a decrease in the biting behavior. Keep track of it so to measure whether things are getting better with time. For obstinate cases, it may help to temporarily avoid temptations by refraining wearing clothing that attracts puppies a lot, such as shoes with shoe strings, leather shoes, pants with wide pant legs, long skirts and dangling scarves. Some puppy owners who are around their pups for most of the day like to wear tall boots or tuck their pants in their socks. Finally, consider that puppies tend to get worse at nipping when they are cranky and in dire need for a nap. If you notice a time where your pup is super nippy, consider enclosing him behind a baby gate or crate with something valuable to chew. Chances are, if you provide a quiet area, he will chew and then happen to fall asleep for a well-needed nap. I hope this helps, let me know if you have any more other questions. Best, Adrienne

Thank you so much for the update, I am glad to hear Abbi started eating again (and with such good appetite!). Hospice care is also what we did for our sweet Petra at almost 11 when she got ill. I took a couple of courses on hospice care to help her through and worked along with a very supportive vet that made sure we always had access to any meds to make her comfortable. Chemo and surgery was out of question due to her cancer being a very aggressive type and the oncologist said she would have spent most of her time recovering, when we wanted her to instead enjoy her time at home in a quiet setting surrounded by all the things she loved. She was weak (had anemia) ad not very mobile, but my hubby helped her despite his back pain (bless his heart!) to get up when she signaled to us a need to go potty or simply wanted to enjoy some time outside just watching birds and enjoying the views. I agree with you that being out in the sun and fresh air can help improve their morale. Hugs to you at this difficult time. With Petra we tried to make the best of every day with her, spoiled her rotten and took many pictures with her and went through a bucket list in her last 3 months. Focusing on the positive as you claim is the best approach for both them and us. Enjoy every moment you can, and take each good day as it unfolds as a wonderful gift.

Maybe the broom falling over scared him and he now he perceives the ball differently. I had Einstein as a puppy bark once when I put a chair upside down and it looked totally different to him and he just couldn't come to terms with it. I tossed treats around it and turned it into his "best friend." Since we don't know what's going on his mind, just to play it safe it may help to prepare a stuffed Kong or some other irresistible goodie, lure him to it inside a crate or past a door, let him have it, then close the crate or door and remove the ball once he's out of the way. Once you have stored the ball out of sight, you can let him back in. By now, I am sure you already found a solution, so maybe you can use this strategy if you ever find yourself in a similar situation another time. I would aim though in the long term to training a fluent "leave it" (with a strong reinforcement history) so that you can use this cue to have your dog step back when you want him to stop interacting with something or you need to retrieve something. As an extra precaution, you can reinforce the leave it by tossing a treat in the opposite direction as you collect the item that was just left.

Hi Jodi, I am glad you are seeking help on this as we want to work on this early to prevent the behavior from putting roots. With pups like this, it helps to conduct a variety of exercises that can help foster independence, while also getting them used to our absences. If you are still home most of the time, this is a good time to work on this to prevent things from going overboard once it's time to go back to work or should there be another need for going out of the home for longer than Benson can cope with. here are a few exercises. These exercises can play a primary role in preventing emotional issues such as separation anxiety and isolation distress. Making the crate or playpen a fun and rewarding place to be may also help prevent the onset of containment phobias. Hopefully, breeders will introduce pups to crates from an early age, to make life easier to new puppy owners once their puppies are sent out to their new homes. As you unfold these exercises, it's important to always monitor your puppy to ensure he remains calm and relaxed and that you progress gradually going at your pup's pace. If your puppy at any time shows signs of struggling, take a step or two back in the process and work more at those levels. 1) Practice Fun Crate Games It's very important to teach puppies to love their crates, and part of that is initially not leaving them alone in them for too long. Get your puppy used to gradual absences and make great things happen during that time. Ideally, you should do this when you have time off from work. For example, place a super yummy long-lasting food puzzle in the crate (like a stuffed Kong or a Lickimat) with the door closed and your puppy out of it. Your puppy should grow eager to get it, perhaps pacing around it or whining. When you notice eagerness to have it, open the door and let your puppy inside and close the crate and leave the room briefly. Watch your puppy from a window or other remote monitoring device, and once he's finishing up, return and open the crate. The goal is to make it clear that great things happen when you leave and your pup is crated. So aim to teach your pup to be left a little bit alone each day. Here are more ways to make puppies love their crates: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/crate-training-restraint-confinement/ 2) Organize Treasure Hunts You can foster your pup's independence by setting up fun nose work activities in the house and in the yard. One of my favorite ways to do this is by setting little "treasure hunt games" by hiding kibble and treats around the home or yard. Simply have a helper hold your puppy or keep him in another room/behind a baby gate while you set up the treasure hunt in a puppy-proofed room or yard. Then release your puppy to go on the hunt while you are away running errands in a nearby room. If your puppy knows how to hold a down stay or sit says, ask for that as you hide the 'treasures." Here is the section on the treasure hunt game: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-treasure-hunt/ 3) Prepare Mat Games Train Benson to lie on a mat and relax there with a stuffed Kong when you are eating your meals or when you want to enjoy a bit of alone time. Use clicker training (if your puppy is familiar with this method) to introduce the mat using a training method known as "shaping." If you don't have a clicker, or if your puppy isn't clicker trained, replace the clicker's sound with a verbal marker such as "yes!'' If your puppy hasn't learned yet to hold a down/stay on his mat, you can keep him in a designated area by tethering a food dispenser to something stable in a safe manner so that your pup won't carry it along to follow you. Here's how to train a dog to lie on a mat: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ 4) Install a See-Through Baby Gates Is your puppy often by your side accompanying you even to your bathroom trips? If so, you may want to install a baby gate. Your puppy can still see you come and go and therefore will feel reassured by that. This is more of a management tool to use whilst you are starting to train your dog to better cope with your absences. So as you run errands around the house or use the bathroom, keep your pup behind the baby gate, but make sure to provide him with something to do such as access to a fun interactive toy or stuffed Kong contingent upon you leaving the room. 5) Play Peek-a-Boo Games I like to play this with new puppies I foster or my client's pups who seem to be a bit too clingy. I simply have the pup behind a baby gate or large box blocking the entrance to a room and hide behind the wall separating us. Every time before I hide, I toss a treat/kibble to the pup and hide while he/she is eating it. Once I hear he/she is done, I re-appear and keep doing this. I then progress to tossing several kibble/treats at once and therefore spend more time hiding behind the wall, always listening until the pup is done to re-appear and repeat. Afterward, I can practice the same game going out the door. 6) Play Hide and Seek Your puppy will need to know how to sit/stay down/stay for this game. Ask your dog to stay while you hide a few treats/kibble around the house/yard, then release him while you go hide in another room. Once he's done searching/eating, encourage him to look for you—when he finds you, praise him and start another game. Here's the guide on this: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/hide-and-seek/ 7) Organize Fun Stays The goal is to teach your pup that it's OK to be briefly left alone. Start with brief distances, such as just a step away, then gradually build on distance until you reach a point where your dog can be left in a room while you're in another. Make sure you go very gradually and slowly in the process and praise lavishly for each step. You want your dog to see this as a game. Here's the guide on training stays; https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/stay/ 😎 Destination No Where Do you have a clingy puppy that follows you everywhere? Or even a puppy who gets up the moment you touch the remote or the armrest of your couch? Then start repeating these actions over and over until your pup gets tired of responding to it. If your puppy gets up when you put the remote down, frequently put the remote down over and over. Eventually his senses will tire and he'll give up responding to it. Then progress and get up repeatedly. Then take a few steps and sit down repeatedly. Then walk in one direction like towards a door, and if your dog follows you, walk in circles, until he gives up following you. When he does, praise him and give a reward. Great things happen when he doesn't follow you. 9) Practice Calm Departures and Arrivals This is both training for you and your pup considering that your demeanor can highly impact your puppy. Avoid as much as possible making a big deal when you are leaving the home or greeting your puppy when you come back. Every now and then, place a valuable edible item your dog loves on a tall shelf he cannot reach. Make sure your puppy sees you put it there. When your pup gives signs of wanting it badly, provide it and then leave the home briefly in a matter-of-fact fashion until you expect him to be done eating it. Then, come back and make sure to not make any great fuss over him. Being overly emotional when you leave the house can influence your puppy's emotions when left alone. Tip: as you practice longer and longer absences, make sure to provide longer lasting goodies (like Frozen Kongs, long-lasting chews) to enjoy, and also make sure to mix in short absences within the longer ones so that your puppy doesn't detect an increase in difficulty as you progress and gets anxious in the process. So for example, do a 20 second absence, then a 10 second one, then a 50 second one, then an 8 second one, then a 30 second one, then a 60 second one, then a 10 second one etc. 10) Provide Exercise, Training and Mental Stimulation Separation anxiety, or what may look like it, may occur when puppies are bored and have come to associate our presence with entertainment, therefore coming to depend on us for their basic needs. It's therefore important to meet a puppy's needs for exercise, training and mental stimulation (brain games!). Movement /exercise helps release energy and anxiety, so plan to incorporate walks, play, training and brain games into your pup's routine every day. Don't Forget Technology! As you practice going outside for longer periods of time, you will find it extra helpful to monitor how your pup is doing during your absence. Nowadays, courtesy of technological advances there are many great products to use such as baby monitors, cell phone apps, webcams and now even special monitoring devices that allow you to talk to your puppy and even toss him treats as you are away (check out the Furbo Dog Camera). Technology may also turn helpful if you suspect your pup is suffering from separation anxiety, but want a sure diagnosis. Separation anxiety is known as the great imitator, because struggling with being left alone can be caused by a variety of other things (like boredom, especially in younger dogs). Provide your vet with details about your pup's behavior and some recorded footage showing what your pup does when he's left alone. While there can be many other causes for the behaviors you are seeing (such as boredom) early diagnosis is important to nip the behavior in the bud. In the meanwhile though, try your best not to leave your pup alone. If you need to head out for some time and your pup isn't ready yet for that based on your recordings, you can hire a dog walker or pet sitter, have a neighbor stay with your pup, or take your pup to daycare. This is important to prevent your puppy from rehearsing the troublesome behavior which can make it more challenging to eradicate over time. I recently posted some more in depth protocols in the below thread if this would truly turn out to be separation anxiety. While veterinary behaviorist Dr. Karen Overall finds that most separation anxiety conditions appear as full blown conditions when dogs are undergoing social maturity (12 to 36 months of age), puppies 4-6 months of age can also show separation anxiety. I hope this helps, let me know if you have other questions and keep me posted. Best, Adrienne

Hello Jodi, I really feel for puppies and dogs who need to see the groomer and struggle with it. We can help them though at home and hopefully with a little collaboration from the groomer. Usually, with pups who try to bite the brush, it can stem from play behavior, or something a little deeper, that is, not being used to being handled/groomed. Sometimes dogs may be used to it, but at some time, come to perceive grooming as something unpleasant either because the dog dislikes being restrained or may have felt a little pain when there was a tangled mat, or maybe the pup just finds the whole combo of things aversive. With pups who want to play, the accompanying body language may include high-pitched barking, a play face and relaxed, wiggly body. With pups who do not like to be brushed, you'll see them trying to wiggle away, cowering and biting the brush or hands in hopes of stopping the interaction. The accompanying body language is different from a puppy being playful. It may include any of the following: growling in low, guttural tone, snarling, trying to escape, overall tense body. I assume from your description that your pup is not a happy camper in being groomed. So in such cases, we can do several things to ameliorate the situation. Here are a few/tips ideas: Create positive associations. If your breeder hasn't acclimatized your puppy to being groomed, not all is lost. It's not too late to start introducing your puppy to the ABCs of being handled groomed. The goal is to create positive associations with grooming so that the pup no longer dreads it. With time, your pup may willingly jump on the couch in anticipation of being groomed! Keep tasty treats in one hand, while you brush your puppy with your other hand, or have a helper feed the treats as you groom. This method outlined below is based on desensitization and counterconditioning, two behavior modification techniques. Here is a read on desensitization: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/ Here is a read on counterconditioning: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/ Here's an example on how to apply these in a grooming setting involving brushing: Sight of Brush= Treats. So turn the presence of the brush into something wonderful. Hide the brush behind your back and then present it to your puppy. Feed a tasty treat when your puppy looks at it or sniffs it. Then, once your pup has finished eating the treat, hide the brush again behind your back and rinse and repeat the sequence. This will communicate to your puppy that treats happen only contingent upon the brush being present! Placement of Brush= Treats Next, start placing the brush on your puppy's back (or any area he doesn't mind too much), and feed a treat as the brush makes contact, brush touch/treat, brush touch/treat, brush touch/treat. Repeat several times, until your puppy looks forward to being touched with the brush. Passage of Brush= Treats Next, start passing the brush with a small stroke, and simultaneously feed a treat. Once done eating, stop the brush stroke. Rinse and repeat until your puppy seems comfortable with that. Then, move on to brushing different areas while you feed treats. Warning: careful with the tail and elbow, tummy area as many pups struggle with that, be very gentle and feed higher value treats as you pass the brush and once done, stop the treats. Keep sessions short and sweet. Pups do better with briefer grooming sessions versus long, tedious ones. So split the grooming into several segments. Watch for signs of tension. As you unfold the above exercises, it's important to always monitor your puppy to ensure he remains calm and relaxed and that you progress gradually going at your pup's pace. If your puppy at any time shows signs of struggling, take a step or two back in the process and work more at those levels. Always keep you puppy under threshold! https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ Now to the collaboration part: Ask your groomer to keep doing the work you have been doing. Supply him/her with some goodies to keep that mouth busy, since you said that you pup gets anxious unless he's chewing on something. Give your groomer something to provide your pup to lick from one hand as he/she brushed your poodle from the other. I like to use what I call the "hand-made Kong. See attached picture. If your pup is used to eating from a Kong and has a gentle mouth, this can be an option. Practice at home, place some tasty treats or dog -safe foods (even soft like peanut butter or Kong brand spray to stuff toys may work) and let him work on getting it out. Another option is to provide your groomer with what's called a Lickety stik which is sort of like a tube that your dog can lick or a Lickety Mat which is a mat that one can place some soft canned food or peanut butter on that the dog can lick. I feel it's important to tackle this issue early as we don't want our pups to come home from the groomer repeatedly stressed. I suspect that such repeated exposures may lead to dogs who dislike being touched and restrained overtime, and it may then generalize to vet visits and hand shyness with strangers who may be trying to pet them. if your puppy is coming home stressed despite this, it may be worthy seeking a groomer that is certified by the Fear Free Groomer Certification Program, a program that aims to take away the stress from groomer visits. Under the fear free certified professional search bar you may find one near you: https://fearfreepets.com/resources/directory/ I hope this helps! Keep me posted on how things go and I am always here if you would like to do some deeper troubleshooting. Best, Adrienne

That's great to hear! If Keep me posted on her progress. Happy training! Best, Adrienne

You are very welcome! This reminds me of my childhood, when my dad would call me to come home to do my homework when I was outside playing soccer with the neighbors' kids. We walked home together as we went to the same school and once we arrived in front of the home we would take off our backpacks and play. I hated going home when I was having so much fun, but things changed when my mom had the brilliant idea of letting me have my favorite ice-cream before doing homework. Since then, I would rush back home, with my mouth watering along the way! If she's struggling to come back home after playing in the open field, it may help to stop calling her specifically for that for now (until we have established a stronger reinforcement history) to avoid poisoning the recall. In training lingo, "poisoning the cue" means creating negative associations with a cue that may weaken overtime. This because going back inside can be perceived as unpleasant to an active dog who loves exploring and smelling around, especially if there are traces of wild animal in the field. So maybe skip the recall for now and see if you can do some other things that can attract her to follow you inside. So once she has spent time romping, exploring and getting a bit tired, you can maybe try dragging a flirt pole and enticing her to chase it until home or offer a rabbit-fur tug toy to tug at it on the way home, or maybe we can take advantage of her brother's good recall and call him and give him something super good that she'll look forward to having too. Maybe also randomly feed them some treats as they walk back with you. Sometimes, just casually walking away once they realize they are alone may prompt them to follow you. We can also turn going back home into a looked-forwarded to routine. Like every day, upon entering the home, we can walk inside and immediately go to the kitchen to unwrap a bit of cream cheese or peanut butter to fill up a stuffed Kong for each to enjoy for some down time. With dogs I board and train, I always make it fun to go inside and even put it on cue by saying happily "let's go inside!" and once in, I toss in the air a handful of kibble for the dogs to search so to make the indoors more reinforcing. This makes my life much easier since many dogs aren't trained yet when they arrive. Once you have established a history of going back inside a look-forwarded to event, you can then practice adding your recall knowing that you'll get a more reliable response.

Awww, poor Shiloh! The cone of shame is a real pain, but fortunately, with time they sort of adjust. Einstein would turn into "superdog" when he had to wear the cone for a cut he got once on his paw that he always wanted to lick. He would use the cone to charge against his sister Petra, just to annoy her or maybe he was trying to get some leverage to try to get it off. Like Shiloh, Einstein went also through a barky phase as he developed. One day I caught him off guard when I was wearing a hat, as in Arizona we rarely wore one in the winter, and he was barking at me that first time he saw me wearing it. From that day on, I turned into the happy "hat lady," and started wearing a variety of hats as we played fun games together just to get him used to this piece of attire once summer was around the corner. He also particularly hated a statue of the Michelin Man, that our local gas station had and would bark at it from the car window. Silly boys!

Hello and welcome to the forums! If your pup has learned very quickly, you must have been using some type of reinforcer that has made the behavior worthy of performing. I know you said "not food, praise or toy driven" in your title, but if she has learned to be perfect on leash, whatever you have used acted as a reinforcer otherwise her on leash skills would have gone extinct. Of course, we would like to see some more excitement about reinforcers in some pup, but some can just be that way, they'll eat what is offered and that's good enough for them. What you are describing sounds pretty much rather normal puppy behavior for a puppy of this age. At 5 months, your pup is getting more independent and is finding things in her environment intriguing and entertaining (and reinforcing!). You can't compare her to your 12 year old Labrador, because she is much younger and there are lots of changes happening in her brain at this delicate time of development. Here is a read about this phase: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/flight-instinct-period-4-8-months/ and right about that time, add the onset of doggy adolescence: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/ So what can be done in such a case? Here are some tips that come to mind: -I would firstly avoid keeping her off leash unless she's in a securely fenced, safe yard. She's way too young for off-leash privileges on walks and not mature enough to have that level of impulse control which comes with loads of training and maturity. -I would avoid for now trying to grab her or her collar when you call her off leash as it sounds like your pup is trying to engage you in the "keep away" game. The keep away game is a game where dogs want to play hard to catch. Another possibility is that you may have called her in the past and grabbed her by collar and then provided a consequence that she didn't find reinforcing at all or that led to making all the fun end (taking her back inside where things are more boring, clipping the leash on when she was free, scolding her). -However, I would aim to teach her that collar grabs are not something to worry about (but something extra reinforcing) just in case you ever need to get her in case of an emergency. So in a quiet setting such as starting at home, you can practice some fun collar grabs. Collar grabs are discussed in the recall section of obedience 101, you can find how to condition a puppy to them by scrolling down the recall section: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/recall/ -I would suggest for now calling her only when you know you have a high chance of her coming to you. So don't call when you just send her out in the yard and she is in full exploration mode or when she is sniffing or having fun. Don't call her when she is that "mode." If you take your dog out first thing in the morning in your yard to explore, give her time to sniff around and monitor the changes that have occurred from yesterday. Yes, your dog notices changes. There may be new bird poop in the yard, the bugs may been digging a hole, and your dog may want to relieve herself. Let her explore her environment. Then, after a while, you will notice she is content with his exploration and may be less intent in sniffing/searching/releasing energy. When she starts looking a bit tired, bored, hot or thirsty, this may be a good time to call her, reward her with something she likes and then have her follow you in the home to drink and be offered some chew toy she only gets sometimes. -Practice solid responses to recalls in quiet areas with little distractions (indoors, then yard) and then gradually work up your way towards distractions. If your pup at some point, doesn't listen, carefully evaluate the situation. What was she doing at the moment? Was she running around having fun? Was she sniffing an interesting spot? Keep this in consideration, so next time you wait to call her, but plan on working on it eventually as you build a more powerful recall. Consider this: every time you call your dog and she doesn't come, you are weakening your recall, when she does come instead, you are strengthening it. Therefore set her up for success and aim to put more coins in the piggy bank with successful recalls rather than taking the coins out. Make the ratio of responding much higher than not responding by starting with easy recalls and creating a strong response to them. - Here's the thing: the recall needs to be music to a dog's ears. So it's important to find reinforcers that "compete" and win over whatever she has been doing when she hasn't listened to your recall. There is food and FOOD and toys and TOYS. Many times we think we are using something valuable, but it needs to be valuable from the dog's perspective not ours. So a pet store clerk ma say " these are treats dogs go bonkers over" but that's a general statement. Not all dogs will go bonkers over it obviously. Many dogs may do better with dog-safe people foods (roasted chicken, baked liver, low-sodium hotdogs, string cheese)-ask your vet if your dog has allergies/intolerances. It may help experimenting with a variety of foods/treats/toys and see her response to them. You can't expect a great response if you offer your dog toys that she sees around the home all the time or foods she eats every day. She needs to be surprised with something that will leave a strong impression in her mind. -Don't be stingy. The recall is a very important cue, along with the leave it and drop it, it can be a life saver. So I like to be generous and when the dog comes to me when called I offer several treats in a row to ensure it leaves " a mark' on the dog. -Reward voluntary check-ins. When you are out in a fenced yard with her off leash, and she approaches you, praise and feed a tasty treat from your treat bag or pocket. This promotes closeness and reinforces her for checking on you versus other competing stimuli in the environment. If you do this often enough, a time may come where even off leash she will still stick by your side now and then, versus being completely oblivious to your presence. This will help build a bond. When I used to teach group classes for an association, we often had during the first day of class the owners walking around with their dog off leash. Often the dogs wandered around and weren't much aware where their owners were, even when the owner was out of sight for a few seconds. At the end of class, we repeated this and it was impressive how focused their dogs were this time, following the owner around and always keeping an eye on them. It was evident that they had bonded together over the 8-week class. -Remember: this may be just a phase. I think I know what you mean when she's in that "mode." I have seen some pups who will just look at their owners with a blank stare as they run away and call with an excited tone and these pups just look as if their owners have gone crazy. With more practice and reinforcement history, they get a more reliable response over time. I hope this helps, Keep me posted on how things go! I am always here to do more deeper troubleshooting should the problem persist. I have a feel though that this may just be a phase and that she may a little "tweaking" in getting a more fluid response

You're very welcome! Keep us posted on your pup's progress! Best, Adrienne

Hello and welcome to the forums! Congrats on your new puppy! All dogs are welcomed to learn here, puppies just need briefer training sessions due to shorter attention spans and old dogs benefit from learning new tricks. I think you are looking at the article archive and behavior training parts which offer solutions for dogs displaying behavior issues. The main basic training and brain training course is here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/ You can follow this in order and progress through the obedience section at your pup's pace, but you can also do some of the simplest brain games that don't require any particular skills (like Muffin game, Bottle game,hand targeting) Make sure to also stop by the designated puppy section here: (scroll down to the puppy part) https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/#puppies I am always here for questions or troubleshooting, Happy training! Best, Adrienne

You are very welcome! I usually tackle dogs who don't do well with strangers over using desensitization and counterconditioning first as outlined below: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dog-barking-someone-enters-room/ and then once the emotional side of things get better, I may then add a go to the mat cue where the dog is reinforced for going on the mat when visitors come over https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ I understand this takes time, but sometimes, progress can be made fairly quickly when working along with a professional (like a CAAB or DACVB) who can ensure he always stays under threshold and keeps tabs on what triggers setbacks and how to get back on track quickly. The professional may also asses if this dog is truly protective of the owner or fearful/territorial or both. This is often done through observations and a process of exclusion. However, no professional can guarantee results, and you are correct, in that, it can be a big liability having visitors over if the behavior of going on a mat hasn't been reached a good level of stimulus control and if one hasn't covered all basis when it comes to triggers. For example, Max may come to accept you and your husband entering from different doors after several trials, but he may react totally differently to a new person entering the home, such as an EMT coming out of a truck with sirens and wearing uniforms and possibly carrying odd things. At this point, we have some other options that can ameliorate the situation: One may be consulting with Max's vet and see if whether he or she may be willing to prescribe some calming meds. These, depending on type can take some weeks to take effect, but there are some that are shorter-acting that can be used on an "as needed-basis". He sounds highly stressed and anxious and working on him in this state may not be as productive as if he were on meds. It is similar to a person with bad anxiety, where often no amount of therapy will help them, but then once they have the right levels of medication to help them, they can learn to interact in ways that the anxiety precluded them from doing in the past. In the state he is in now, his fight and flight system is in overdrive and powerful hormones are likely affecting his cognitive abilities-impairing learning. With the right meds, it may be possible to have a behavior professional work on him to condition him to wearing the collar/leash and react less intensively to visitors. This professional may also help asses the dog and suggest the most appropriate options based on history taking and observations. Another option is to skip the vet (or get a referral) and go directly to a veterinary behaviorist (DACVB). He or she may want to rule out some medical conditions that may cause dogs to be more reactive (like low thyroid levels, chronic pain) and can prescribe calming meds directly along with implementing behavior modification. He or she may help determine whether there is hope for behavior modification -and thus keeping him in the home, or whether it may best to have some trained rescue volunteers take over his care. It is often very difficult to imagine a stressed dog undergo more stress when being re-homed, but in some cases, the situation may be for the better. Meds can also help for this transition. It would be important inquiring with the rescue and giving the dog's whole history disclosing all his behaviors (including any bite histories if present) for the safety of those who will partake in potential rehabilitation. He may find a dedicated person who will be willing to work with him and provide him a low-stress environment where he can be provided with daily walks, exercise and the mental stimulation he needs. I have seen dogs suffer the very first days due to the changes, but they tend move on, and sometimes even fairly quickly if their new environment is nourishing. I hope this helps, Best, Adrienne Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If the dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation. By participating in this forum, you automatically accept such disclaimer.

Hello and welcome to the forums, It is very noble of you offering to help out these dogs. From what I understand, you would like to work on Max's issues, primarily the throwing himself at the gates/windows etc and then getting him habituated to wearing a collar and leash. Considering his history, this will not be an easy task, but it can be doable with lots of patience and determination-and the correct type of help. In general, dogs like this are assessed by professionals and then if deemed safe, they are placed in temporary foster homes where they can be assessed and gradually trained (through the help of professionals) and then the dogs are evaluated to determine whether they are safe and ready to be rehomed. Rescues specializing in certain breeds can be a resource. One of the primary issues I see is that you are dealing with a dog who has likely rehearsed these behaviors from quite a long time. The more a dog rehearses certain behaviors, the more they put roots and become more challenging to overcome. On top of this, I see some issues management-wise. One can work a lot on a dog, but if the dog is allowed to keep on rehearsing the problematic behavior, even if at random intervals, it is difficult to progress and you risk going back to square one. So let's say we do lots of foundation work in conditioning this dog not to bark and throw himself at windows. If he still gets to rehearse this behavior in his home, even if just every now and then, a good part of this hard work will be cancelled out. This because barking at the windows is reinforcing to the dog and when dogs show aggressive behaviors it triggers the secretion of adrenaline and noradrenaline and this chemical bath can get quite addicting which explains why aggressive behaviors tend to establish and repeat (James O'Heare, 2007). Behavior professionals in general deal with behavior problems using what's known as a functional behavioral assessment (FBA) which allows them to pinpoint the triggers and the function of the behavior and then, based on their observations and findings, formulate a behavior intervention plan. Behavior intervention plans often involve behavior modification techniques based on desensitization and counterconditioning and sometimes involve as well training of alternate, incompatible behaviors (differential reinforcement) meant to replace the undesirable behavior. Initially, these experts will collect data to gather a baseline and then they use charts to track the problem behavior and recognize whether it is improving or not. Here is a read on desensitization: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/ Here is a read on counterconditioning: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/ And this is differential reinforcement: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/differential-reinforcement-incompatible-behaviors/ Important is also to read body language fluently for signs of stress/fear: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/signs-fear-stress-dogs/ and understand how things can escalate: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dogs-dont-bite-blue/ and recognize signs that a dog is over threshold: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ So for instance, for a dog who isn't used to wearing a collar, behavior intervention may involve taking very small steps in a very systematic way (desensitization) while creating positive associations (counterconditioning). Here is just a general guideline, but take this only as an example as dogs are individuals and may require a personalized plan with more intermediate steps in between as needed and additional steps for safety (for example, having the dog wearing a basket muzzle -which allows to feed treats through it- and wearing Bite Buster Kevlar gloves). One may start from touching the dog in an area close to the neck (but not the neck area yet) that doesn't evoke any particular response that may suggest that the touch feels aversive. As the area is touched, the dog is fed a treat, as the dog finishes the treat, the hand is removed. This is done several times to communicate to the dog that treats are contingent upon touch. The goal is to obtain what is known as positive conditioned emotional response (a state where the dog shows signs of happy anticipation to being touched as it comes to signal a treat is coming). Next, if once the dog seems fine with previous step, one may start touching the dog in the top of the neck area (where the collar goes) and feed treats in the same way as before. Touch/ treat, touch treat, to communicate to the dog that treats are contingent upon touch. The goal again is to obtain a positive conditioned emotional response (+CER). Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would may proceed to introducing the collar. One can hold the collar behind his/her own back and then present it to the dog. The dog is fed a tasty treat for looking at it or sniffing it. Then, once the dog has finished eating the treat, the collar is hidden behind the back again and the sequence is repeated several times always looking for a +CER. Treats happen only when the collar comes out from hiding behind the back! Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would unbuckle the collar and allow it to briefly touch the top of the dog's neck as one feeds a treat at the same time. Touch neck with collar, treat; touch neck with collar, treat. This is done several times always looking for that lovely conditioned emotional response. Treats happen when the collar touches the neck. . Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would place the collar on the dog's neck and try to make the two ends of the collar touch while a helper feeds the dog treats. The collar is removed once the dog is done eating. This is done several times always looking for that conditioned emotional response. Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would advance to doing the same exercise, only that this time, one will pretend to buckle the collar as the helper feeds the treats. Once done eating, the collar is removed. This is done several times always looking for that conditioned emotional response. Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would aim to actually buckle the collar making sure though that it remains loose. The helper would feed treats and the exercise is rinsed and repeated various times always looking for a positive CER. Next, once the dog seems fine with the previous step, one would buckle it more and more snug (as the helper feeds treats) until it's snug enough that one can fit two fingers between the collar and the dog's neck. Then the collar is unbuckled once the dog is done eating treats. Once the dog seems OK wearing the collar, the dog is praised (if the dog finds this reinforcing) and a jackpot of treats is given by tossing several tasty treats the ground for the dog to eat. Then, the helper hand feeds a treat as the collar is removed and one would act suddenly boring, no more praise and treats. The dog is ignored. Happy things happen only once the dog wears the collar. Of course, this is the slow method, done at the dog's pace. Although slow, it's the method that has the dog become an active participant rather than a dog trying to hide. Attempting to get into the space of a dog who is hiding can be a dangerous practice as it can evoke a bite since a dog's flight option (capacity to flee) is removed. For situations where a dog needs to be collared and leashed quickly (as to be taken to the vet for an emergency) experts in the field (such as animal control officers) may use a catch pole to hold a dog still and place him in a transportation cage. The dog will certainly not like this, but it's an option if the dog needs to see the vet quickly. For muzzling, if a dog isn't used to it, it will also require a conditioning period: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-your-dog-to-wear-a-muzzle/ But a faster method may involve filling a muzzle attached to a pole or a piece of furniture with peanut butter and let the dog eat/lick it while one straps it on and then a collar can be applied more safely. It goes without saying that an acclimatization process is also needed to get the dog used to wearing a leash and giving in to leash pressure. This would also require lots of baby steps and good associations. For the issue on barking at windows, I typically use this method below for average barking, but in a dog who isn't used to being leashed it would require extra precautions for safety and to reduce threshold levels such as placing temporary window film to make the visuals less salient, working at a far distance, doing lots of foundation work to get a super solid response to the smacking sound and preventing rehearsal when the dog is not being trained. If he throws himself at the windows though in such a way as to potentially injure himself, sedatives may be required to lower the threshold level just enough to pave the path for behavior modification. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ It goes without saying, that, due to the complexity of this issue (a dog who we aren't familiar with, with a strong history of rehearsing certain behaviors, and demonstrating avoidance behaviors with potential aggressive displays) the intervention of a behavior professional is recommended for safety and correct implementation of behavior modification. A board-certified veterinary behaviorist may be ideal here as he/she may help rule out any medical issues and may prescribe sedatives as needed along the way. Some rescues and no-kill shelters may sometimes have volunteer professionals willing to help out in the case of dogs who can be helped out. Please ensure they use force-free methods as these dogs need more more stress in their lives. I hope this helps, Best, Adrienne Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If the dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation.

Oh no, poor Shiloh! I think your best bet for this is to check with your vet who placed the splint. They should have given you a list of things he can and cannot do (and for how long) when he was discharged. If not, it is best to check with them to play it safe. Usually, when I worked for the vet, dogs with fractures had to stay crated for the majority of the day with only short leash walks allowed outside, but just to go potty. I know how hard it is to keep a young active pup calm! Many vets indeed send the most active pups home with sedatives to use daily to help keep the edge off. You can ask about this option if he's too active. I am afraid that at this stage, any wrong movements can do damage-even with rather innocent-looking activities hence why the vets say to keep them calm most of the time. Bones heal best when they are kept steady and still. Best wishes for a speedy recovery! Send him pats for me please!

Hi Lori, Welcome to the forums, I would try to avoid grabbing anything forcefully from a dog's mouth for several reasons. 1) It puts you at risk for a bite as a growl may be just a step or two prior to a bite. See Kendall Shepherd's ladder of aggression here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dogs-dont-bite-blue/ 2) It puts the dog into the position of thinking that he must really protect anything from you because you are doing just what the dog fears the most-that is, losing access to something. Resource guarding is sort of a matter of trust. The dog doesn't trust us around their belongings because they think that we are trying to remove them. Which is often true when dogs get a hold of certain things, but we can change their perspective on this with training a strong conditioned emotional response to our request to "drop it" but in a dog who gives signs of resource guarding already, we may need to implement some extra additional steps. So in your case, I think it would be a good idea to carefully evaluate what can be done to prevent a future situation like this and have a plan in place to avoid prying his mouth open. 1) Institute management. In other words, screen as much as possible the road as you walk with your dog to prevent mishaps as such. Avoid areas with tall grass where you cannot see things hiding there. Look ahead on walks and walk at a distance from any temptations. 3) On walks, you can have a plan in place. For instance it would be helpful to carry something far more valuable than the fresh animal bone. You can keep it in your pocket or treat bag for swapping by getting your dog interested in it and tossing it to the ground as you walk away from the dropped item (avoid doing this though if your dog shows signs of excess pushiness or aggression when you are in possession of something he wants). Now, a disclaimer is warranted here: If you have forcibly removed items from your dog in the past or your dog hasn't learned the perks that come from learning a good drop it from the get-go, you may have to add some additional steps to work harder on convincing your dog that you are not a threat and that you will actually add things or swap things for something better rather than taking them away. This is mainly done through behavior modification, using desensitization and counterconditioning techniques. You can read more about desensitization here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/ And here you can read about counterconditioning: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/ Now, with training the drop it and leave it command, in the case of a dog who is resource guarding already, it requires a more gradated, systematic approach incorporating some elements of behavior modification described above versus the regular way of training it. For this very reason you'll see how in the drop it section it reads "Some dogs may be reluctant to drop items they are possessive of. If your dog shows signs of aggression such as stiffening, growling, or showing teeth, please stop training this exercise and consult with a professional. So with the help of a professional you can work on exercises to instill more trust and creating a fluid response to the leave and drop it cues, by adding more steps and ensuring your dog isn't over threshold. Here is a read about threshold levels in dogs: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ So as your dog responds well to drop its using low value items, then, as you progress, the professional can coach you through practicing with higher and higher value objects. Bones, for instance, are often at the very top of a dog's hierarchy of value. This likely explains why your dog has growled upon noticing your intent to remove the bone. Bones are valuable to dogs not only because they are long-lasting, but because they have interesting smells and often have meat to nibble on. Many dog owners wonder what to trade these with. By putting oneself into a dog's mind it is possible to find several options. For instance, an animal bone that has been no meat on it can be traded for some long-lasting edible that can be fully consumed (e.g. bully stick). An empty marrow bone can be traded with one that has something extra tasty smeared in the middle (like cream cheese or peanut butter). Some dogs will drop any bone for some foods that they perceive higher than value such as liverwurst or strips of baked liver placed inside a hollow bone. Of course, these are just examples each dog has their own preferences.. As always, use bones at your own risk and discretion and make sure they are appropriate for your dog. The professional can therefore help you find the most appropriate "trades" and propose some extra safety measures. For instance, for safety, with unknown dogs or dogs with a history of showing signs of guarding, I prefer to always use something edible that is higher in value than what the dog has. Maybe it's a bully stick, a pig's ear or a Kong stuffed with something tasty such as some smelly canned dog food or some baked liver. Whatever it is, I ensure to keep it always handy so that I can reach out for it at a moment's notice. When need be, I make noise with the wrapper, open the fridge, unlock the jar storing the dog's favorite bone. Chances are, the dog will prick his ears and watch me carefully. At this point, I expect the dog to drop the item he had in his mouth voluntarily to come see what I am doing or he may approach me carrying the item in his mouth to check me out. Once I have the item in my hand, I let the dog see it, and as soon as I notice interest, I walk past an open door or baby gate, toss the desired item, and as soon as he's past the door/baby gate to go get it, I close the door/baby gate between me and the dog so that I can safely remove the object. This method works well because on top of getting the dog to voluntary relinquish the object, I am also teaching him the art of "fair trading." In other words, instead of dreading me coming his way when he has a possession in fear of me pulling it out of his mouth, rep after rep, he looks forward to it because he has learned that I always have something better to offer. More threads covering resource guarding: As seen, dogs who growl are communicating a potential intent to bite, therefore, for safety and correct implementation of behavior modification it is recommended to enlist the help of a qualified dog behavior professional, such as a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) or an Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB). He or she may guide you through several exercises to instill trust and create that positive conditioned emotional response. Hope this helps, Best, Adrienne

Hi Judy, Welcome to the forums, I imagine this jumping is occurring when you are eating at the table. I know you said that he is never fed while you are eating, but can it be that, every now and then, he gets some crumbs that fall off the table or he eats them from the chair as you get up from the table? That's often enough to make the behavior of jumping up reinforcing. Not to mention that, dogs noses (especially beagles) are super powerful and just jumping up to sniff delicacies can be rewarding on its own. With cases of jumping up at tables while eating, we often need to take a multi-faceted approach, tackling it from different angles. This often entails a mix of management and training. Management is mostly applied when we cannot train (or when we cannot supervise our dogs), and then we can strategically organize set-ups for those times when we can train. Management Management simply means taking steps to prevent the problem behavior from occurring. This is often underestimated, but there are many advantages in using management. 1) it prevents rehearsal of the problematic behavior. Every time a dog finds a little crumb, the behavior is reinforced, causing it to put to put roots and establish. Think of it as being addictive as playing the slots at Vegas. If we often play the slots and win a prize, we are more likely to want to play again and again. 2) it keeps our dogs safe. You may never know what your dog may get into. Baker's chocolate left unattended on a table and consumed in modest quantities can lead to an emergency veterinary trip. Management therefore prevents rehearsal of the problem behavior and helps keep our dogs safe. Management may therefore entail the following: -Keeping table tops always immaculate and clear of food so that your dog's almighty nose won't feel tempted. -Keeping chairs free of crumbs as much as possible -Keeping dishes on the table farthest from the edge. -Sitting as close as possible to the table so there is less surface to jump on -Keeping the elbows close to the body while eating to prevent the dog from sneaking through -Ignoring the dog when he happens to jump up/ scooting away closer to the table to make it more difficult to be jumped on -Erecting a baby gate. In some cases, it may not be easy to keep tables and counters always free of food (especially in homes with children). By erecting a baby gate, Rover doesn't get to visit the kitchen with all its wafting smells and temptations. Out of sight, out of mind! Training Training aims to teach the dog better impulse control and resisting the temptation of begging/trying to steal things. Here are some tips: -Train an alternate behavior. We often tell dogs what not to do and invest very little time in telling them what to do. Since, most likely, your dog tends to beg while you are eating, if would be helpful to teach your dog to lie on a mat and turn that into his favorite surface to receive goodies. This way, your dog/dogs will eagerly go there when you're ready to eat and you have established a desirable routine. Feed some long-lasting goodie there such as a stuffed Kong, Kong Wobbler with a portion of his kibble, long-lasting chew (bully stick, Yak Himalayan chew). Always check with your vet first if your dog has allergies and for specific recommendations. Here is how to train a dog to lie on a mat: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ -Train the leave it and drop it commands. This can prove to be even life-saving if your dog is about to grab or has already grabbed a potentially toxic food or something she may chew on and risk an intestinal blockage. Make sure to practice this even when you are at a distance from tempting items and always reinforce by giving your dog something much higher in value (from your dog's perspective, not yours!) than the item left/dropped. Here is how to train leave it and drop it: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/ https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/drop-it/ I would also aim to provide outlets to your dog's natural "foraging" behavior. You know, that big desire for dogs to scavenge/look for food and stuff? You can provide outlets for this tendency with several brain gams such as the treasure hunt game, muffin game, bottle game and with food dispensing toys such as Kongs, Kong Wobblers, Buster Cubes, Snuffle mats and Licki-mats which you can fill with your dog's kibble/canned food to keep that brain busy. With no more food left around the table when you are not around, a fluent response to the "leave it" and "drop it cues," food being fed contingent upon your dog lying on the mat, and outlets for natural scavenging behaviors, with time, you should see a reduction in your dog's counter surfing behaviors. Here are some extra tips:

You are very welcome! Rescues take some time to decompress and get used to their new homes so he may need some time to adjust to changes. In case he seems to be struggling with the transition to his new bed, we can always take intermediate, smaller steps. For instance, we can place his new bed on your bed for some time until he gets used to sleeping on that, and then we can gradually move his bed from on top of your bed to next to your bed. Keep me posted on how things go! Best, Adrienne

I am sorry to hear that Rex is showing signs of possible separation anxiety. This can be a little tricky to diagnose at times (it's now called "the great imitator"), but focusing on destroying the door area from where you exit, is one tell-tale sign. The best way to diagnose separation anxiety with more certainty is recording a dog's behavior when left alone and having your veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist take a look at it. However, this may be risky if your dog is prone to injuring himself or if he does extensive damage when left alone. A better option may be to set your recording device with a clear view towards the area you exit and leave for a brief absence sticking nearby as you monitor him using a remote monitoring device so that you can come back quickly if he starts getting into trouble. Sadly, many dogs who are rescues suffer from this problem. It is not always clear if they were surrendered due to separation anxiety in the first place or if they go on to develop it due to trauma of being surrendered, creating a type of chicken-or-egg scenario. In any case, if your dog has truly separation anxiety, this requires time and lots of baby steps to tackle. One of the most challenging parts of separation anxiety behavior modification is that it requires management when the dogs aren't in "training." This means that to "protect" the hard work and preventing dogs from rehearsing the problem behavior, absences should be avoided during the behavior modification process. In other words, , you may need to hire a pet sitter or have a friend stay with your dog when you need to be away. Helping a dog suffering from separation anxiety is not an easy task. Many dog owners wonder how long it will take and there's no easy answer as each case is different. The more a dog has been rehearsing the problem and the more severe it is, the more work may be needed. Severe cases may require the addition of medications (veterinarians are likely to prescribe them, if they feel it's needed). If separation anxiety is what Rex turns out having, here are some general protocols used for addressing this problem. It goes without saying, that each dog is different, so they may need a more individualized approach. What's needed? Interactive toys, treats, food, a mat, baby gates and some technological gadgets such as remote monitoring devices and/or automatic treat dispensers are used in the exercises. Although optional, the use of these technological gadgets come extra handy considering that they allow to monitor dogs remotely so to evaluate whether it's a good time to raise criteria or whether a dog is being pushed too hard. A safezone will also need to be established. This safezone is the dog's confinement area where the exercises will be performed. For comfort, it is best to use an area that is central to family activities such as an office, kitchen or living room. Dogs who enjoy their crate, exercise pen or playpen and love to lounge in it, can have it placed in the safezone as long as these enclosures remain open as some dogs with separation anxiety suffer from concomitant containment phobias. A safezone should be blocked out by a baby gate or in homes with open-plan layouts, a super wide gate may be needed. Tier 1: Protocol For Dogs Who Follow Owners Room- to- Room One thing many dogs suffering from separation anxiety share is extra clingliness, so much so, that many dog owners have started to nickname their dogs "Velcro Dogs." These dogs follow their owners from one room to another and like to sleep by their owners' feet so to be the first alerted when their owners are about to get up and walk around. This component of treatment for separation anxiety in dogs needs its proper protocol since it would be non-productive starting practicing outdoor absences if these dogs aren't even able to tolerate brief absences within the home. The goal of these exercises is to gradually build on distance until the dog can be left in a room while the owner is in another. On top of these exercises, it's ideal to encourage these dogs to sleep at night on their own bed or mat and sleep there as well during the day (rather than sleeping constantly on the owner's lap, glued to the owner's body or at the owner's feet). Note: some dogs are particularly attached to one person. To start the exercises easily, it is best to start with the person the dog is less attached to and then progress using the person the dog is attached to. Step 1: The first step entails having the dog to be able to relax and cope without following their owners everywhere. These dogs need to learn to perform brief sit/stays or down/stays on a mat or other comfy place while the owner walks around, but initially remains always in the dog's sight. Initially these sit/stays and down/stays should be very brief for just 1-2 seconds while the owner just takes a step or two away in various directions and then returns to reward. Criteria is then raised with the owner just walking a few steps away (3-4) and then returning to reward. Gradually, distance and duration can be added, but it's important to make sure to not make increases in time and distance predictable as dogs will soon come to predict this increase in difficulty and may grow incrementally anxious. To avoid this, mix in shorter (less time) stays and closer stays (less distance) frequently. For example, 2 second stay, then 4, then 3, then five, then 1, then 4, then 6, then 2 etc or 2 steps away, then 1, then 3, then 4, then 1, etc. Distractions at some point can be added as well. Clap your hands as you walk away, count to five out loud, turn your back to your dog, lift your arms, walk around your dog etc. If your dog ever breaks the stay just say a casual "oops" and send your dog back to the area where he was asked to stay. Resume the exercise, this time making it a bit less difficult before progressing to asking for more. Many clingy dogs follow their owners every time they get up from sitting. If your dog gets ready to follow you every time you are sitting on a chair or couch, and you put your hand on the arm rest or put down the remote, practice sit/stays and down/stays as you repeat these actions over and over. Then increase criteria, and start to get up repeatedly from your chair/couch/. Then get up and take a few steps and may be even walk around your dog and go back to sitting. These exercises should be done until fluent and the dog appears totally relaxed and no longer eager to follow. End the sessions with a jackpot of treats. Step 2: Gradually increase distance/duration. With longer duration, it's best to request down/stays to prevent tiring. Take more steps away (from standing or sitting) and for gradually longer times and start going out of sight. Ask your dog to down/stay on a mat as you briefly get out of view behind a wall or door for a split second, then return and reward. Repeat several times as you gradually mix in shorter absences and longer absences and shorter distances with farther distances, making sure to not allow you dog to detect an incremental pattern of difficulty. You can mix in brief errands too such as opening/closing a closet, grabbing a beer from the fridge or closing a window as long as they don't cause you to be out of sight for too long. These exercises should be done until fluent and the dog appears totally relaxed. Always end the sessions with a jackpot of treats. Step 3: Increase more the distance and duration. Install a baby gate, hide several treats around the enclosed area, send your dog there and have your dog explore his new confinement area and find the goodies. Leave the baby gate open for a couple of days so that the dog can freely visit and discover goodies in there. Next, practice briefs stays as you get in and out of the baby gate and return. Stay always in sight. Gradually increase the time you stay out as always mixing in briefer stays with longer ones, but not more than a minute in length. At some point, get out of the baby gate and start preparing a stuffed Kong that can be easily unstuffed in just a minute or so. Place the stuffed Kong behind the baby gate where your dog can see it and smell it and cannot get it. Your dog should try to get the Kong. Wait for a little bit of frustration to set in such as your dog trying to paw it or whine. Grab the Kong and give it to your dog as you remain in view at a distance behind the baby gate for 1 minute. Return inside. Repeat, reloading the Kong again making it more challenging to unstuff and then less challenging, so that you can increase the the time you stay out as always mixing in briefer stays with longer ones. Try to return when you know your dog is just about to finish unstuffing his Kong. Step 4: Start incorporating the treasure hunt game, using a portion of your dog's meals as outlined in the course. Have your dog sit/stay or down/stay as you get a portion of your dog's meal allowance and hide the kibble around. Have your dog watch you in anticipation and then as you leave the room and release your dog. Allow your dog to hunt as you are briefly out of sight. Return and repeat the exercise hiding the remaining portion of your dog's meal allowance and leaving as your dog goes on his hunt. As always, gradually increase the time you stay out of sight, mixing in briefer stays with longer ones, but not more than a minute in length. Alternatively, in lieu of the treasure hunt game, you can stuff a slow food dispenser such as a Kong Wobbler, Buster Cube or regular Kong with the kibble and let your dog work on it while you are away. At some point, start delaying your returns a bit so that your dog has finished hunting or eating from the Kong but doesn't appear to anxious about running out of food and being alone. Tier 2: Protocol for Uncoupling Pre-Departure Cues Dogs are masters in reading body language and learning all the cues that culminate into our departures. It's therefore not surprising when they start acting nervous when dog owners get up, have breakfast, and then put on makeup, shave, brush hair, put shoes on and grab the keys. These are all pre-departure cues that put dogs on high alarm, as these cues have been chained one to another and associated with departures. Uncoupling these associations requires some work. The work encompasses desensitizing to the pre-departure cues and breaking up their associations with the departures. These exercises are done when not leaving the home. Make sure that you therefore have time set aside for this. To start, compile a list of behaviors you perform normally when going to work or head out and identify the ones your dog seems to react to. Then, place them in order chronologically, starting with the one that is farthest away from leaving the house. You will then work on exposing your dog to these behaviors starting with the first and then chaining them one by one until the dog becomes uninterested in them as they lose value due to them no longer leading to departures. For instance, if your list looks something like this: put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys and walk out the door, your exercises will look something like this: (please note, sit on the couch/watch TV is an example, you can do many other things that your dog associates with you being home like knitting, washing the dishes etc.) Put on shoes, sit on the couch, watch TV (when you sit down and watch TV or read a book or go prepare a meal, do so for a few minutes each time) Put on shoes, grab briefcase, sit on the couch, watch TV Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on the couch, watch TV Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, sit on the couch, watch TV Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door slightly, close door, sit on the couch watch TV Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, then back in, close door, return, sit on the couch watch TV Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on couch, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door (with you outside), quickly reopen door, close door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV. Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on couch, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door (with you outside), lock the door, unlock the door, return, sit on couch watch TV. Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door (with you outside), and increase duration of staying outside gradually, but for no more than half a minute (always mixing in shorter absences in the midst of longer ones), then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV. Note: If your dog seems upset by any of these behaviors, you may need to split them further. For example, if your dog is doing well up until you start opening the door (like you catch your dog whining), then, you may want to split the action of walking to the door in further segments (e.g take a few steps towards the door, return, sit on couch, then, walk to the door and stand in front of it, return, sit on the couch, then, walk to the door and touch the knob for a split second, return, sit on the couch, then walk to the door and open the door a bit for a split second, return, sit on the couch. Do this until the door can be successfully opened without the dog worrying about it. Tier 3: Exercises by the Door Monitor your dog for signs of distress These exercises are more difficult, and therefore, require dogs to be very well proficient at the previous tier level. Dogs should therefore have reached a point where they are fine with being left alone for up to half a minute as the owner stands behind the closed door. Because these absences are longer and more distractions are added (car engine starting), it helps to provide some high-value long-lasting goodies for the dog to consume such as a strategically stuffed Kong with layers (e.g a layer of cookies stuck at the bottom, kibble mixed with peanut butter, a cookie stuck midway, canned food, another cookie at the top). For longer absences, on top of a Kong, an automatic treat-dispenser set to release treats at frequent intervals can turn helpful. When providing goodies to consume for these absences, it's important to provide them as well while you are at home to prevent them from turning into a pre-departure cue signaling to your dog you are about to leave. At this point, it may also be important to use some form of remote monitoring so to assess how the dog is doing and keep tabs on progress and/or setbacks. Body language should be carefully assessed. Anytime a setback is noticed, it means that one must work more on a lower level until the dog is perfectly comfortable with that level. For example, if the dog becomes anxious upon being left alone for 8 minutes, more time should be spent practicing at lower times. Increments should be done in seconds rather then chunks of minutes always mixing in briefer times to make the exercises as variable as possible. Build the time gradually up to 30 minutes if possible. Arrivals should always be no big deal. Ignore your dog as you walk in and just go straight to the couch. Example of exercises: Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV. Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, spend a bit of time in the car, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV. Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, move the car a bit ahead and then back into parking space, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV. Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, drive the car around the block and then back into parking space, then unlock the door return, sit on the couch watch TV and so forth. Gradually increase more time spent away, mixing in shorter absences. A Word About Treatment For Separation in Anxiety in Dogs It's important to consider that slow and steady wins the race in behavior modification. It will take time, commitment and determination to attain results. The goal is to get a dog to be calm and reward that. Setbacks are always possible during behavior modification no matter how well planned the program. To reduce the chances of setbacks, it is best to perform separation anxiety exercises with the help of a professional for in-person evaluations and coaching. Once the dog appears calm in the safezone, it's time to generalize the behavior and practice in other areas of the house and with other family members. Finally, remember that separation anxiety is often misdiagnosed and there can be other issues at play. Just to have an idea google " dog separation anxiety the great imitator," and you'll find an article divided in 4 parts written by a veterinary behaviorist and doing an in-depth list of all the potential differentials. I hope this helps, Please let me know if you have any other questions, Best, Adrienne

Hello and welcome to the forums, So sorry to hear your new pup has a history of being abused and is acting very fearful. These cases are a work in progress, but it's highly rewarding watching them bloom over time. Since you have had him for 6 weeks, it is important doing some major decision-making. You will have to choose whether you will always welcome him in your bed or provide him with his own sleeping area. If we let him sleep sometimes in bed and other times we expect him not to, this creates confusion. And of course, given the choice dogs will almost always pick sleeping in the bed with their owners rather than their own! If you want him permanently on his own bed, you will need to find ways to prevent him from getting in your bed and expect some whining/restlessness the first few days. We can reduce some of this tough by creating positive associations with his bed and creating a soothing environment that induces sleep. So here are a few tips: Create Positive Associations During the day, keep you dog's new bed in the same room you are and feed your dog treats on it and also give him toys to enjoy there. Below is a guide on training a dog to lie on a mat. Notice how Einstein is eager to go and stay on the mat because of all the great associations. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ *Since your dog hasn't learned yet how to lie down and stay, for the time being, you may find it helpful to erect an extendible gate or an exercise pen around his mat to provide a temporary barrier until he learns these skills. Drain Excess Energy Make sure to provide play, exercise and mental stimulation so when night-time comes, your dog will be more likely to settle. Exercise isn't a cure-all but it can sometimes help lower your dog's threshold just enough to turn an otherwise potential "fit" into a less dramatic display. Make Going on Your Bed Difficult Block off access to your bed. You may have to get creative here. Put chairs, large boxes, furniture. This can be annoying, but this measure is fortunately temporary, until your dog learns to enjoy his new bed. Alternatively, you can place your dog's bed within a dog exercise pen or behind an extendible pet gate so your dog stays confined to his area and away from your bed. A crate may also work well, but if your dog was never crate-trained, this can take time and some dogs with separation anxiety seem to particularly struggle with them. Create a Bed-time Routine Dogs love routines, especially rescues who often crave predictabilities in their lives. It gives them something to look forward to and they like to know what to expect as it's reassuring. Make a bedtime routine of taking him to his bed, giving him something to enjoy on it that's long-lasting such as a stuffed Kong or a long-lasting edible chew (for example, bully stick, Himalayan Yak chews-ask your vet for suggestions based on your dog's individual health). Add Some Amenities Sometimes, adding some amenities to your dog's bed can provide some extra comfort. For example, with young puppies, I like to provide a Snuggle Pup Behavioral Aid. Young puppies are used to sleeping in piles with their littermates, and this stuffed animal that emits warmth and a beeping sound that mimics a mother dog's heartbeat, can help the adjust easier in their new homes. With older dogs some amenities can include providing a shirt that has your smell, warm water bottles wrapped in a blanket for warmth, or spraying the bed with a pheromone-based calming spray for dogs. Provide Proximity Nothing is worse for a dog than, going from sleeping on your bed to sleeping far away from you, or worse, in another room. To help your dog adjust to his new bed, it's important that he doesn't come to associate it with social isolation. So place your dog's bed right next to yours, so that he can see you and hear you at night, and if needed, you can always dangle your hand down to pet him. Do this at least initially, you can always then gradually move your dog's bed away if need be, but we have always loved hearing our Rottweilers snore and sleep on their own beds in our bedroom. I will be posting some info about his anxiety upon being left alone in the house in my next post.

Hi Andrea, Based on the info you have provided in your other thread, I can share some general guidelines for pups who jump up and bite on the leash while walking. However, it would be helpful identifying if there are any particular triggers/events evoking the behavior (leash biting when the walk starts, when it ends, upon seeing other people or dogs on walks) or if this is just simply a combo of play/ seeking soothing things to chew in a teething puppy. In any case, the goal is to tackle this early before it becomes an established habit. We can accomplish this in two main ways: 1) distracting him in a timely manner and keeping his mind off the leash by providing alternate behaviors to engage in 2) making the leash less enticing to bite So with distracting, you'll aim to toss treats on the ground before he has a chance to grab the leash. This way, you'll be reinforcing the behavior of not biting the leash, therefore creating a replacement behavior. You pup can't be focusing on grabbing the falling treats and grabbing the leash at the same time since his mouth is already occupied by chewing kibble. As he gets good at this, you can also insert some training. For instance, you can try distracting the pup by asking a few steps of attention-heeling very now and then with a tasty treat at high level, that surpasses the leash in value (in other words, the treats attract the pup more than the biting the leash as dogs can't bite the leash and eat at the same time). https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/heeling-attention-heeling/ With making the leash less enticing to bite, you can use a metal chain leash (which most pups do not like to chew and is often the easiest fix-although we have a pup here who loves to chew on chain possibly due to the cold feel on the gums-hi Shiloh!) or temporarily you can slide a 5-foot piece of narrow-gauge, lightweight PVC pipe over your leash (although impractical). I know some people spray taste deterrents like Granny's Bite apple or Bitter Yuck on leashes to make it taste bad, but some dogs even like the taste of this stuff and it can be hard to remove from our hands if we happen to touch it. There are some leashes made of steel cable, but they seem to not have great reviews due to breaking apart (the handle mostly). You have mentioned that your pup likes carrying something in his muzzle. Providing this option on walks can also work to your advantage. Just make sure that whatever you offer for him to hold is valuable enough for him to choose it over the leash. Provide it only on walks, to make it more enticing. With time and consistency, once your puppy is a little more mature and you can take him on longer more enriching walks (with your vet's consent, once he has finished his vaccination) you should see a reduction in wanting to chew the leash as your puppy may start getting more interested in his surroundings and at the same time he may have gained better impulse control. Many pups outgrow chewing leashes just as they outgrow chasing their tails. However, if we keep on allowing them to, the behavior may establish and put roots. I am attaching a little cheat sheet I created a while back on ways to tackle leash biting, so you can see the various options. Please note that basket muzzles are only for severe cases, not you case). For teething your pup may enjoy cold things, like the frozen washrag trick you can read about here; https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/behavior-training/chewing/ There are also puppy teething rings and toys meant to be frozen to sooth teething pups. Some dog owners provide frozen fruit such as strawberries or bits of banana. The goal is too sooth those gums and also provide outlets for chewing so that the leash is tempting. Hope this helps, Best, Adrienne