FrederykBlot

Thanks for the sharing ! Your story brought me a laugh from the story, a smile for sensing someone in the same boat, much respect for you as your day seemed crazy (I'm sure I would have died on the spot 😂) and hope like as you said, it seems we can be resilient as some point... I got my part of puppy blues in the face but the more we advance, the better it gets. Because there is less and less new things, after some errors and some victories you understand that you won't be perfect and that's ok, and that pup is his own being and just have to love him just as he fully is and not how you want him to be or think he should be Having said all those beautiful words, you really right resilience build but... Daaa*****n sleep deprivation is a nasty thing ! I'm reconsidering having human babies hahaha

Hi ! I'm upping this as Loki started to begin a little fright of the stairs lately. (I think I mentioned it in another post) He had no problem with it before, so I suspect he may have tried them alone for exploration, and slipped, or fall... I really suspect like that, because it's going down that scares him, going up is no issue. That being said, thank you for the method. I was luring with treats in my hand before, and started to put treats on the steps as suggested by Adrienne in her reply to my message, and it worked quite well. It's nice to see a good application of the method ! Praise to Esther ! Loki gets a jackpot when he's downstairs to make him know that coming downstairs when I'm downstairs myself is very cool !! Also, thank to your post, and this is not related to stairs per say, I think I'm gonna get a stair like yours for the car. I never thought about, but it seems so convenient. I think one of the thing Loki doesn't like with the car is the difficulty to get in or out. He can't jump in alone, so we have to carry him (and being carried unless in exhausted is not his type, we may have to train that a little), and he doesn't find a convenient way to get out, so I'm pretty sure he can feel a little trapped (and that, just to add to the fact he can have motion sickness). Maybe the little mobile stairs may help to cope at least with this part For the questions part now :D :D Do you have any idea of anything else what could cause this sudden setback ? My trauma thing is a wild guess, I didn't see him having an unconfortable moment in the stairs Also, I was wondering if at Loki's age, we can train that specifically ? I was doing it only when go to walk, because I read that stairs aren't supposed to be good for puppies because of joints, and plates... but is 4.5 months old enough to try a few times up and down during the day ? Thanks & regards

Thank you all very much for the nice words This weekend between buddies is over now, and it had been without any major distress unless one : one night he barked in the crate like every 2 hours or so and never did it before... I let it slide a little to avoid the "you bark I come", but then I remembered the diarrhea accident in the crate, but I was suspicious as he usually whines and not bark... I let him out... Nothing except attention seeking... Put him back in... Barking again few hours later... And I litterally panicked, I was picturing him doing this every night, making us impossible to sleep with the doors open to hear him call the wake up, potty time... And snowball effect, making the whole house falling apart (hahaha yes I'm a bit of a drama king), me calling an européan Victoria Stillwell... While testing again if it was potty, I noticed I forgot to close the window in the room next to the crate. This was too much stimili : the cars passing, the night birds, the neighborhood dogs barking... Last night I made all the windows checks, and everything was normal ! Yay ! Big sweat here for me. I'm glad I could did, and it went good, it gave more confidence in my ability to manage him, but I veeeeerrryyyy glad this is over. The 23:00 --> 5:00 are started to get to me specially with the one of the window thing, and it's time consuming. Being a single parent is exhausting 😂😂

I don't know if that may help, but down isn't also the easiest command for us also. Even using the L technique and the luring, Loki would just throw himself down two front paws instead of doing a smooth lying down... If he not throwing himself down, he would aim at my finger (finger downwards is the hand signal), either trying to nip, or trying to play "touch" I'm guess I'm ok with that, as the sit for impulse control is not that bad, and he naturally get down when we do " go to your mat" (because he figured a treat would come this little gluton) My point being "down" is one of those command that can have subtleties that make it perhaps a harder than the others basics, and just requires more work and fine tuning than the others (Please correct me if I'm wrong, it's just a personal statement based on my expérience with Loki, and I'm no expert at all)

Hello I'm so happy right now !! This morning we had the most fantastic victory ever !! During the morning walk we were on a field, after this field there is a little road, and over the road there is another field with a cows pen with of course electric fence Somewhere before the road he started seeing the cows pen and started to stall. I really wanted to tackle this issue because in the area it would be too much of an inconvenience if he would be afraid around animals pen, so I tried some counter counditioning I started treating high value each time he looked the cows / pen, and if he would just rest here a bit calmy. Thank to your explanations about the impossibility to reinforce fear as it's an emotion, I wasn't afraid to have a bad timing, so I treated When I sensed he was a bit more ok, I advance a little to the road, few steps at the time. Sometimes he wouldn't follow, so I took just one step, lure him closer, and treat a few times just while seated or watching the cows. My God did I have to treat. At some point, the dried liver didn't do so I had to resort using the liver paste, a tiny bit on the finger each. I was ok with perhaps giving a bit much, but I felt working on weight or diarrhea would be easier that counter conditioning fear. (Please let me know if it's not ok) We went so slow and steady we extended the morning walk by almost half an hour to do less than 20 meters. But in the end the magnificient point was in the last meters before the road, he actually passed in front of me and started sniffing around as there was nothing wrong !! We cross the road and ended up in the field where there is the cows pen and I let him loose as a reward. He enjoyed there as it was quite some time he was on this particular field. The best of all is sometimes he even went sniffing in the direction of the cows !!! I took a picture to show how close we got I didn't have to treat on the way back. He was walking fast, but it was definitely not a fearful escaping, as he stopped to sniff here and there We doubled the walking time, and had to admit it was a bit energy consuming, specially after a wake up at 5:00, but was way worth it. It's all thanks to you and your input and advice, thank you so much for that. I don't think it's over and everything good now, but I'm really hopeful it's something we will manage. We would rinse, repeat, using this path again and also other path where he is still not reassured, until we could walk in the area without him stalling anywhere. I'm just so happy right now I wanted to share that. That must change from my questions or anxious messages lol

Just forgot to mention (couldn't edit my previous message) When we were on the road with the fence, he had a poop, less solid than the one in the morning I wondering if it's the new treats ? Or could it be it was from stress induced, even if the work seemed to went well ? If so, should I back off with this counter counditioning work or it will pass the more we work on that and he becomes reassured in the presence of those triggers ?

Thank you very much for all the details in the matter. This morning during the walk I get to experience a little and I'm kinda glad because I almost did as you explained. He seemed to definitely have recognized the area or perhaps the type of fence, because we walk on another road with the same kind of fence, but not the one that shocked him (we're in a farmer's area) He stopped, not really reassured, but didn't escape : I let him look at the fence and the area and I treated. I did with new treats, of dried liver, and they seems really high value to him. He did respond to the treat. So I tried some heel walking, trying to take the road with the fence next to us, while treating here and there. He still responded. I didn't want to be too greedy, and keep it positive for the time, so we backed off a bit and went to another way. We went to the field, then at some point he spotted the cow, or another fence. Same here, he sitted, obviously not reassured, but didn't escape. I try to show / point the cow, and treated him with the same treat. I try to advance a little, when he followed, I treated. When he didn't, I stepped back, until being to a point he would come. If he seated for while, I also treated. I repeated a few times, and managed to get to the road in front of the fence. (Yaaayyy) I did treat a lot though, and had to finish with the liver paste as I depleted the dried liver I took. Then we went the other way and I stopped treating. I guess to show him good things happens when he sees cows and fences, and none if they are absent. Then there were some people and dogs coming by, he was interested by them and we did a little impulse control. He didn't care much of the cow and fence there. We went back from the same path. I didn't have to treat then and he wasn't escaping (yaaayyy again) but I may have been helped by the fact he found a crow feather. I didn't took it from him until we were far enough of the potential distress triggers, to perhaps make the association "oh when there are cow and fence I even get to have a nice feather" In the end I traded for liver paste as he started ripping the fur part and I didn't want he swallow some. To finish the walk he ended up authorized to play in the field with another dog while being unleashed so it ended up the best for him. I really feel I was on the right track there, specially now after seeing your message as I ended up doing things almost as you recommended. Didn't think to use the smacking sound though, will do next time. I will avoid the exact same spot where he was shocked, but maybe redo as we did today, in places that may have some triggers but in which he has better mémories, like walking unleashed, or playing with other dogs, or meeting people. As you say, I intend slow and steady here, but I feel more confident with "the method" now. I really get the grasp of what you say about the threshold, as today he responded to treats and we could actually work, while yesterday he was just escaping and not even caring for the treats Thanks again so much for your explanations, and the time you take to give so much details and caring.

Hi This message is me don't want to be this guy that only post when he has a need, a problem or a question 😂😂 Put this here as it was just about training My girlfriend sewed a snuffle mat for Loki using an old couch protector It's a bit messy, but he seems to enjoy the sniff He can't always get all of them but still have most https://youtu.be/ROS-292imZk

Hello, I'm upping this thread because my mind just went blown away about treat value. Loki's ranking is : - kibble - random commercial dry treat - apples - cooked chicken (which we not always have it dépend on grocery) - hot dogs (we stopped giving him that because we identified it as a cause of diarrhea. Maybe we had bad quality, of he was too young and his stomach couldn't handle it at the time. It was the first treat ever he got and first weeks we had him it was all he had... Maybe we can try again now that he's older) - liver paste I didn't figure out how much difference it makes because it hadn't been long we started working during walks and with big stimuli Most of his training was basic commands, usually at home, and it that case he seemed happy with whatever But lately he started to have a problem with the stairs while he didn't before (we never forced him, he just happened to follow us downstairs some times). The stairs get to the door and he was ok to take them to go for the walk But since 2 days, he stood up, with the envy to follow us, but some fear to get down... I don't know why, I may have seen him missed a step, but really not falling or hurting himself... Is vertigo a possibility also ? Anyway I try to train / counter conditioning by trying luring him on the first step, treating, luring on the second step, treating, then treating only every 2 steps, then every 3, then jackpot in the end, rinse, repeat... Btw, is the the correct way ? And is it ok or I should forbid the stairs and carry him ? The point is : didn't work a damn thing unless it was the liver paste ! That's how I understood the difference on a real high value treat, and one just a bit better than the previous one Discovering that I'm starting rethinking a certain part of training : - treating outside always with the liver paste for the recall, leave it, drop it, impulse control with people and other dog The outside part is getting better but I think with the best value treat, we may get results faster in "fluency", and only then starting to reduce the treat value and the frequency Is this relevant ? Or would there be a risk that he wouldn't respond anymore to the less valuable ones ? From this "discovery" I'm starting to think that some of the important things that were a bit of struggle (looking at me at the smacking sound for example) could advance way more with better treat management Thank you for your input

Seems the fence will not be that simple. On the walk yesterday evening, when on the field from another way, he started to freeze and turn around... I don't if he recognized the road, the fence, or perhaps it was the cows he saw, but he was surely in distress I try to advance while treating but he didn't take the treat... At some point, he just turned around and when straight back as fast as he could while fully pulling on the leash (long one and he pulled at maximum distance) while he usually walks around us... Impossible to get anything from him then, no recall, no look, just him fleeing like a mad man... Besides his distress, which obviously I would rather he doesn't have, this road is the way to the forest, which he loves, so it would be sad if we wouldn't be able to pass there anymore... I guess the way to go there would be counter conditioning, but how specifically ? Starting treating way before the road ? Using only high value ? I suspect the cows, so I soon as we see a cow, I treat ? If I miss the timing, wouldn't that reinforce the fear ? Thank you for the help

Thank you for the details I did that to avoid forcing the harness onto him as he had a bit of stepping back reaction, and I didn't think I could past this reaction in one session. I still do the harness baby steps though Good thing is I think I did it in the right order : I come with both the harness and the lick mat, I invite him to put the head in the head buckle with the mat behind it, when he does I fully give the mat, and attach the chest buckle while he's licking, and I let him finish before actually going On another note, more related to the playpen / crate : last couple of days have been a bit more difficult to put him in, surely because of the heat. However, the other concern are still there : he still does not settle alone correctly outside, and I still have to do some things on my own during the day... Yesterday night, and this morning, there was some chasing him around the house involved, and carrying him in Should I make more and more crate / pen game ? I don't he has an issue with it... Sometimes before the heat spikes, he went in by himself when we were back from walks. But nowadays, outside is surely cooler than inside Should I lure him in with high values treat or lick mat, and close behind ? he may associate going in the crate with having something nice, but this feels kind of a trap... could this backfire at some point ? Or in such circumstances, we do what we can as we can ? (which is currently my way to go :) everyday is a learning possibility as everyday there is something new :))

Thank you for your sharing I guess it would be some experience, as you said :) But there are some things I'm afraid that I think I will need : - usually the current schedule is that is in the pen while napping. As the naps are huge during the days, we avoid containing him while he's awake (maybe it's a mistake), and I'm picturing myself needing to contain him during the day, with big tantrum - I was thinking using chew to counter that. Usually I avoid giving too much edible chews on a day, because of calorie intake, and also consequences on poops : usually first times were followed by less solid stools. Is it less likely to happen as his stomach and immune system had time to build on it - we have puppy school and rabies shot, and that means : car ride ! without my GF in the back to treat him when he's calm and relax... I fear a regression about the car, as I will have to lure / force him in and out, and nothing to give him during the rides (it would be short ones though) Besides, the day didn't start well, I hope this is not a bad omen hahaha : during the morning walk, what I thought was a perfectly safe containing wire in the field, was actually an electric wire. He already touched it without anything happening (thats why it was safe to me), but I guess this time it was activated, and poor Loki had an electric shot... After that he went hiding in the bush... I try yawning to tell "no big issue here", giving him treats, even luring him with paste... It didn't do, I had to carry him... then after he was walking at the extreme limit of the line, like trying to escape from me... could it be he associated me with the shot ? How should I react in those case ? My reaction was instinctive, as I didn't really know what to do Should I redo some trust building ? like hand feeding ? or anything else Or it will just pass ?

Thank you both for your answers and details I feel more at ease now. As the first one I've contacted had a minimum age limit, I was thinking it was something necessary for better management I finally contacted other pensions that have no age limit, and little Loki will likely have some days there during summer We're gonna make some pre-visits in the upcoming weeks to see which one suits better our style That was my thinking, and I'm glad it makes sense We're having my parents-in-law, and we would like to show them around a little, but we the sun these days, and how young he is, it wouldn't be able to take a full day of walking in some cities, or in hikes... and as they come once a year or so, just being stuck in the house or in the close area would be a bit sad

Hello following the message concerning me being alone this weekend because of my gf having a bachelorette party, I have questions about dog pensions, because for the wedding he will spend a night in a pension as we couldn't take him They said they only take dog at least 6 months old for the night But we have to do a day without night test before, and at the time he won't be 6 months I was wondering, is it ok to put him in a day care while young ? Is there a minimum recommanded age before we can let him to someone for a day ? Is there some specific things I should be careful about ? (except for chosing a good one, which is a given) We may have planned to put him a day or so here and there as we will receive people during summer and would want to do big trips... Having a little break can be good for our sanity, and to reload our batteries, I won't lie :) But can this also serves as a training ? putting him with someone else in charge from time to time can make him use to that fact that sometimes we won't attend to him, and that's ok, we will be back soon Like a few hours with a pet sitter, then a day in the pension, then a night, then a weekend... It woud prepare the field for the time we want to go on a vacation that is not dog friendly instead of tossing him first time during a week with strangers I'll be glad to hear opinions about that Thank you

Hello, I don't know if it's much of a concern, or if it's a real subject, but this week, it would be the first time I'd get alone with pup since we have him. With Covid both my gf and I and working remotely, and we found a good routine alternating who takes care of pup depending of work / house needs at the time I spend overall a bit more time than my gf with him for play and training Also, I do the morning session that goes around 5am to 9am depending on the wake up time, and she does the evening like 9pm to 11pm depending on the wake up of last nap, so I can get to sleep earlier. This weekend, she's having a bachelorette party. First to say, I'm afraid as hell ! She usually provides some time off I need when it's a bit too overwhelming :) and I fear sleep deprivation as doing both the morning session and the night session But my biggest concern is : should I expect behavior trouble for this weekend ? Not seeing one of the member of the couple during several days can make weird ? perhaps even distressed ? or depressed ? If there anything special I must do ?

I have cheated my way with the harness thing Baby steps had a little payoff, but still he put on a fight at walk time and I didn't want to undo the work done because we had to force the harness onto him First thing first, we really loosen the new one, and I can really feel the difference, specially on the chest part, I'm certain it's way more confortable And I use the ultimate reinforcer : the LickMat with liver paste : I put a little nut of paste on the mat, give him the mat and put the harness on him. He's more docile than ever and it totally work :) I may be using a shortcut, but I still have the feeling that I create positive association with putting the harness on I still give treats here and there when showing the harness, or walking with the harness Is this solution acceptable ? Or is this a "cheat" that can backfire at some point ? Kind regards (little picture of the beast with his brand new harness)

I can vouch to that First big hard time I had with Loki was his inability to settle on his own By creating a schedule of awaken session being like "physical, mental, chew, walk, nap in crate" he went from "I'm soooo desperate, I don't know what to do... shoud I play ? should I chew ? let's bite my owner to see what he has to say" to him going into his crate after the walk with just us having to say "good nap Loki" As you say also, a disturbance in the schedule can create disturbance in the behavior Nowadays, the heat increase in our region... we can't do walks during the day, it very difficult for him given his big fur. We still doing physical / mental / chew at home or in the yard, but with the broken schedule, everything is a bit more difficult. He would wander around in the house without knowing what to do et the end of the session, and without settling on his own again... So we force the nap, and even if he usually settles quite easily because he's exhausted, he still whines a little (FOMO I guess ?) while in the "walks are followed by the nap" mode, there is definitely no whining Having a schedule was life saving at the time, and now, even if I am more confident and less anxious, having and following a schedule really helps because it structures things for both me and him.

Your idea of playing with the temperature seems relevant, but if in a playful mood it's likely he'll take the blanket for a tug toy lol I think I will have to reinforce the smacking noise with real high value treats. I'm not sure about the apple kibbles mix now... I have seen the concept of "positive interrupter". I find that very interesting because I'm not always ready when he's on the verge of a "bad behavior"... But I understood that having a "positive interrupter" would stall him a little just enough to get me ready with a toy, or treat, or alternative behavior I guess for now, the classical training will be the main method, and the washing machine will be the next part when he'll be ok with off the couch lol With Covid we dont have much guests anyway so 😂 Thanks again for input, always so relevant

I need to re-up this subject, because as little Loki getting a bit better with several things, we built a bit confidence and open our control a little Prior to us relying a chews, we enclose our living room couch behind a pen... the pen was Loki's pen but we had to take a higher one as it could jump over So we use it to protect off limits furniture To be able to have a living room that looks more like a living room we tried removing the pen In normal mood, he has not much will to go onto the couch, but when he starts to get a bit playful, or attention seeking, jumping on the couch become a new cool thing (obviously, as it's off limits, he has reactions from us, in the form of "get down" + giving a treat) We try "leave it" a bit more when he'd be around the couch from now on, but the couch has now higher value than his kibbles :) Also, what do you think about vinegar ? I see somewhere it was recommanded to clean potty accident, because vinegar is repulsive, and so they'll be less likely to redo an accident on the same spot The repulsive component is also advised to keep them away from things off limits. Obviously we don't want our living room to smell like vinegar but as it's volatile, I was wondering if that may help to pull him away from the couch before he has a chance to get on, and still allow us to enjoy it as the odor will wear off Is there any counter indications ? (except for the smell of our living room :)) Is it relevant ? Thanks

Hello, If that may help, here is the part of my experience : I had quite the same issue : I was wondering what is the good amount, because I was reading that we have so stimulate our puppy, but not too much because they quickly loose focus... So I started to check and an ideal schedule like "15 min physical, 15 min mental, potty, walk, nap, rinse, repeat" with other information like "a walk should be 5 min per month of age", "training should be divided in session of 3 minutes max, 5-6 times a day" And ended up with the worst experience I shared in the puppy blues topic, because it didn't match with what I read / saw / look on video He ended being overstimulated because it was too much to tug and fetch for the time I was afraid because one day he took a 4 hours nap, while I heard a session should be "1 hour awake, 2 hours nap" I've made the vet laugh when asking him about that being more anxious than ever... his answer : "there could be a million causes : he's too hot to play, he has a growth pikes, teething pikes... if he plays with you while awake, still eats, bites you, he's good..." I even asked here just to have Adrienne reply "it's a baby, just let him sleep" :) :) The real thing is that any pup is different, will evolve differently, and once I accepted that, and learned to read the signs on my pup, everything went better He has a 2 hour session following by 3-4 hour nap in the morning In the afternoon, he just wanders around sleepy because it's starting to get a bit hot... I try to catch few minutes here and there to make some basics starting 5pm, he begins his day, and this time it's a 2 hour awake session, with a 1h 1,5h nap during which we take dinner, and then last session before bedtime I'm not sure it's a recommanded, or convential schedule, but it appears to work for us and Loki. I feel less anxious, and time we spend together are really more quality time, instead of just trying to do "what is needed, and what should be done". We just enjoy together About training and consistency, Adrienne has so much quality content I'm not even sure another source is needed One thing though : nobody in mainstream article tells you how much it is long, and how much patience you need, and how much to repeat, rinse, repeat... They all try to sell the "quick magic method that works so fast" Personal case : we trained "leave it" so much, again and again at home, and he still took everything he wants during walks... but still, we continued, again, and again, and again... and one day during a walk we said "leave it" on pile of horse poop (high value to him), he looked at us, cross over without touching... my gf and I looked at each other, I thought we were gonna cry in joy ! It's become easier as you understand that it really takes time... It's not us owners that doing badly (given we make the effort to make it right), it's just long and it's normal Training definitely does not give short term satisfaction. Don't get me wrong, a good session is always nice to have, but the biggest reward comes after time and dedication, when he managed to do something you struggled on, and though was so hard So I'm pretty sure that with the caring you show (just being here on this forum is almost some kind of proof of willingness to do good), he will end up really well behaved

Hello If any help, I can just concurs with Adrienne and JMFS Always have the impression that Loki is doing good with attention and walking in a "well behaved manner" (not fleeing, checking on us...) but the sight of a critters (in our area it's mostly birds), he lose it all !! I don't know if it's best, or if it can apply for you, but what we do with Loki is : - if the place is safe of other distractions (like people passing by, or other dogs being walked), we just let him, and practice a recall. I guess it works because it's birds, and they will fly, and he will just end up all alone in the field, with nothing more to chase. It is the perfect occasion of a long recall, which he's starting to have. It may not be suited for rabbits or squirrels though as a pup may follow them far away - he's most of the time on leash or long leash (we tried non-tied walk but for very short period of time in very safe fields to practice recalls, check ins, and walk in "long distance follow"), so we do just the same when he wants to greet other dogs : impulse control. We stomp on the leash, we wait that he find out the rewarding behavior is being calm, and when he sits, or stops jumping / whining / lunging, we treat. But it's a loooooong process : we made that every walks for a month now, he just starts to offer a sit when he sees a dog quite far, but goes to him when the other get closer. And it's even more longer for critters, in the sense that there are more other dogs that birds landed in a field, so I guess in the end, it's just about impulse control... and using the critter as an opportunity for impulse control training, instead of training impulse control to behave around critters I hope I have been clear enough (I dont have this impression :)) and that it will help

Hello Adrienne Thank you for checking on him ! This is appreciated He's doing way better. Last poops has good texture and color, (I'm always feeling weird discussing details of poops lol) and we didn't do anything specific I think the heat thing may have been real. Also, I'm thinking his digestive system, and immune system are "creating", so it may have reacted to something new : as you suggested it's better to have edible chews in one setting, we bought varieties of them to have variation of time and taste for him He may have reacted to one of the new ones On another note, some parts of the training are way better. He made some wonderful recalls on walks. And we started to have some "leave it" on walks also, if it's not too much value, like dirt, or slugs... "Drop it" is a bit harder, but now that I walk with the liver paste, it has enough value for trading, and it has been quite some times I had to force something out from him Lesser good news are : - the car : we started again wayyyyy back : going in the crate + treating, crate + engine + treating, little trips + treating the whole time... it won't fight sickness, but maybe having a positive association will compensate a bit the current hatred / fear of the car - and lately also his harness : his last one may have been too tight, or too small, and it has been really difficult to put it on. While he loooooveeeees the walks, putting the harness was a bit of a fight lately, he was fleeing it So we bought a bigger one (I felt a real tightness on the chest on the old one, even in the most loose position), and had to start from the beginning : showing the harness + treat, touching in with the harness + treat, just the head + treat... little question : can he be starting teenage period ? he's 4 months / 17 weeks now and we had quite a fright this weekend : he was behaving well, so we wanted to reward him and let him untied in the yard... He ended up in the neighbor's garden, and then on the street as her garden is not totally fenced Rewarding on less control was a bad idea, but as I saw that exploration is one of the big teenage period marker, I'm wondering if it can be the start of it ? (I would think it's early, I still have the impression of being in puppyhood with all the teething, and biting :)) Thanks for all

Hello I'm no professionnal but had the same question with our pup we got end of April Short answer, it has been a little less than 2 weeks, but in our case, there were some specificities : - we went to get him very far away, so during 3 night in the return trip he slept in a pen containing his bed, in another home each time - when back in our home his sleeping crate is in the guest room, so we slept there 4-5 nights i'd say. We prioritize crate training as soon as we arrive home. First 2 nights, my wife sat a bit next to the crate at bedtime to help him fall asleep - then we moved to the living room which is just next to the guest room. We made a 15 min rule of crying / whining ignore. Nurses in baby services does not go to babies crying at night before this timespan (at least in our country), we found this rule quite relevant - After 2 or 3 nights with the 15 min rule, we moved back to our room which is upstairs. We decided that if we're not in the same room it does not matter much if we're on the same floor or not During this time crate training was high priority, and it serves us quite well because now he's in a phase where he does not want to settle peacefully : he can be obviously exhausted, but everything in the house is a stimulation (furnitures, cables...)... But thanks to the crate training, we can enforce naps in crate without tantrum, which is honestly life-saving I'm not sure it would be the good way for your pup, but it worked for ours Hope that could help

Hello I'm still posting here because I'm not sure if it's the sequel of Sunday's night or not I may call more the part of you that worked for a vet rather than the trainer behaviorist, besides I think I even saw some of your article related to that Little Loki is experiencing episodes of diahrrea since then. When I say episodes, it's because it's not really each time he goes to poop : First poop of the day can be completely fine, noon and afternoon tends to be quite liquid and more frequent, and then in the evening it's better, just a little less solid in the end I noticed some weird thing in that looks like a little membrane... I thought it was banana that we made him try, but while searching a bit, it may correspond to mucus I wasn't alarmed the second day because as I said, there are good ones in the day, and bad ones. Other thing that made us thing it's not that bad, is that he has no other symptoms : he still plays, he's still bitey, he still eats (when in Kong or in muffin game :)), still chews, still loves walks... But today, it was the same again, and it started to worry me a little more, we thought it would pass alone I called the vet, he suggested that can be due to heat. Heat can have digestive consequences, specially given that Loki have such a big fur, and it's his first summer-like temperature since his arrival in the world. That seems to make sense, and fit the fact that stools are better in the morning + evening, but more liquid and more frequent in the day during plain temperature pikes. Told us to wait a bit more if he adapts to temperature or if it decrease a little, and Friday would be time for an appointment if stools are no better I have little questions about this : - as you work with a vet, does this actually makes sense ? to me it does, it seems to fit the "time of the day" behavior + Loki's fur, but I'm no professional - I saw good things about ginger. We are definitelity big ginger consumers at home, and I see lots of places where they say little pinch of ginger powder can work magic for upset stomachs in dogs. What is your opinion about that ? I'm so sad we won't be able to attend puppy classes tomorrow because of that :( But safety first !

Good news tonight : the tummy problem has passer He made again a night from 10pm to 6am with no accident whatsover Little concern though, he didn't settle until quite a moment in the crate : he whined 10+ min, which is a lot for him lately... This time we were sure the needs were met : he was fed, we saw pee and poop. So I was thinking : - as the day was spécial in terms of schedule, the session before bedtime may have been a little short - my biggest fear : a real regression about the crate. Last night should have been horrible, and perhaps now the crate is a less cool place to be - it's just normal fluctuations. 10+ min is not that big of a deal. Sometimes they just a little less eager to go sleep, like a kid wanting to watch TV a little bit more should this be a source of concern and something to address ? should I redo some crate reinforcement ? Can I just see how it goes as a one time thing may not be that significant ? Thank you