4 month old merama x kelpie showing aggression

[Tana]

Hello our gorgeous pup has been very snappy and aggressive when someone tries to take something off him like a shoe or something he shouldn’t be chewing. Or if we want to put him outside and try to reach for his collar he will growl and try to bite. He has also growled even as you walk passed him when he is sleeping. We have had dogs our whole lives and never had this problem. We have 3 young kids and just want to treat this problem the right way. We have his full brother who shows no signs of this. They are both rescue pups. Thanks 

[Adrienne]

Hi Tana, 

This is certainly something you want to address sooner than later, as we don't want these behaviors to establish and obtain a strong rehearsal history, making them more difficult to eradicate. 

How old is your puppy?

What breed?

When you pass by while he's sleeping, are you touching him in any way or is he growling  just as you are simply walking by?

On what occasions is he being sent outside? To pee/poop? As timeouts? As a consequence for unruly behavior?

How old are your kids? How do they interact with him? 

Does your pup have an area where he can get away from the kids and nap?

Has he ever bitten? If so, how is his bite inhibition so far? Please don't encourage him to bite in any way for the sake of answering this, simply describe whether his bite breaks skin or if he holds and shakes the head or other details based on what you recall.

Thanks, these extra details will be helpful for me to better understand the situation. In the meanwhile, please use strict management, e.g don't leave shoes or other things he shouldn't have around, if he gets a hold of something, show a  long lasting  treat like a dog cookie and toss it the opposite way as you retrieve the item. To put him outside, call him and give him a treat once outside rather than grabbing the collar, or entice him to chase you outside, making it fun, and if he attacks when he sleeps, restrict him to an area where nobody walks by. We want to prevent him from rehearsing these problem behaviors as much as we can.

[Tana]

12 hours ago, Adrienne said:

Hi Tana, 

This is certainly something you want to address sooner than later, as we don't want these behaviors to establish and obtain a strong rehearsal history, making them more difficult to eradicate. 

How old is your puppy?

What breed?

When you pass by while he's sleeping, are you touching him in any way or is he growling  just as you are simply walking by?

On what occasions is he being sent outside? To pee/poop? As timeouts? As a consequence for unruly behavior?

How old are your kids? How do they interact with him? 

Does your pup have an area where he can get away from the kids and nap?

Has he ever bitten? If so, how is his bite inhibition so far? Please don't encourage him to bite in any way for the sake of answering this, simply describe whether his bite breaks skin or if he holds and shakes the head or other details based on what you recall.

Thanks, these extra details will be helpful for me to better understand the situation. In the meanwhile, please use strict management, e.g don't leave shoes or other things he shouldn't have around, if he gets a hold of something, show a  long lasting  treat like a dog cookie and toss it the opposite way as you retrieve the item. To put him outside, call him and give him a treat once outside rather than grabbing the collar, or entice him to chase you outside, making it fun, and if he attacks when he sleeps, restrict him to an area where nobody walks by. We want to prevent him from rehearsing these problem behaviors as much as we can.

Hello thanks so much. He is a maremma x kelpie 16 weeks old. 
he has mainly been aggressive by bearing teeth and launching at with us or kids he has bitten my husband it was a quick snap no broken skin or holding. I guess more a warning. He has an area to go sleep alone and have quiet time. He gets put outside for numerous reasons toilet, dinner, when kids are eating, when he needs timeout for acting out. It’s only been a handful of times but I wanted to do something right away. 
he growls when he is sleeping if someone sits near him we teach the kids not to touch dogs when sleeping. Eating etc. 

the kids are 7,5,3 they play with him with rope toys and fetch and walking around etc. thanks for the help 

[Adrienne]

Thanks for the extra details, very helpful!

Sorry, I missed the breed-just noticed only now that you posted it in the title. 

So in a case as such, I would suggest preventing putting him in situations that seem to trigger his aggressive displays as much as possible. So as I have already mentioned, try to keep things he shouldn't have out of reach. To put him outside, call him (check how to train a good recall in the obedience 101 section) and give him a treat or access to a toy once outside rather than grabbing the collar, and if he attacks when he sleeps, restrict him to an area where nobody walks by. 

Now these are management techniques that are meant to prevent him from rehearsing the problematic behaviors, so it's also important working on these issues. In cases as such, a mix of training and behavior modification will turn helpful. I will be posting some tips on how to tackle some of the behaviors you are observing, but I want to emphasize that, in a household with young children, and with a puppy that will grow to be quite large once mature, and that is already displaying aggressive behaviors, I feel it would be very important having a behavior professional assist in these delicate early stages so to ensure everybody is safe and that behavior modification is implemented correctly. 

So what is behavior modification? Behavior modification aims to change a dog's emotional responses, it's quite different than actual training (which is mostly operant conditioning), and often includes techniques based on desensitization and counterconditioning.

Desensitization means taking a gradual, step-by-step, systematic approach to acclimate the puppy to something the puppy perceives as overwhelming/unpleasant/aversive. It requires very gradual, less intense exposures, sort of teaching a child to not be afraid of water by first letting him stand in water that is at the foot-height, than up to the knees, then up to waist etc. always ensuring the child is comfortable. You can read more about desensitization here:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/

We can power up desensitization by adding also counterconditioning into the mix. In counterconditioning, we aim to create positive associations with something the puppy perceives as overwhelming/unpleasant/aversive. So back to the child scared of water, he should feel much happier being in the water if, every time he is exposed to the water, in a step-by-step fashion, he is given some form of reward (like some candy, stickers or figurines, anything the child really likes). You can read more about counterconditioning here:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/

While we do all of this, we always need to gauge the dog's emotional state, watching for signs that suggest the dog is 'over threshold'. In other words, we need to be careful in reading the dog's body language for signs of being overwhelmed/stressed/fearful.  Now, some signs of stress can be rather evident like growling and snapping, but there are often more subtle signs that can be missed. Here is a list of some signs of stress/fear in dogs:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/signs-fear-stress-dogs/

In resource guarding specifically, we may notice more specific signs though such as:

Carrying an object in the mouth and moving away from the owner
Running away and hiding the object
Laying down with an object kept tightly in the mouth
Tensing the body
Hunkering over the possession
Showing the white of the eyes (whale eyes)
Eating faster as the owner approaches
Swallowing edibles/non-edibles fast to protect them
Rushing towards a valuable before the owner can get near it
Sudden bout of intense barking upon approaching something valuable
Growling in a deep, guttural tone
Snarling (showing the teeth)
Snapping (quickly biting the air)
Biting

Here instead is a read on threshold levels in dogs:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/

Now, these are just some basics on behavior modification. With this info on hand, it' true that we can better understand the goals of behavior modification, however only working with a professional, who has made of dog behavior modification his/her area of specialty (like a veterinary-behaviorist or certified applied animal behaviorist) can really cover all basis or at least most of them to ensure everything goes smoothly. The biggest problems encountered in behavior modification are usually progressing too fast through the process (slow and steady wins the race in behavior modification), failing to recognize early warning signs that a dog is going over threshold (it can take years of practice to recognize the mist subtle ones) and not knowing exactly when to advance or take a step back.

With this being said, here are just some basic examples of behavior modification one may conduct along with a professional (consider that each case generally requires a personalized, custom-tailored approach based on a variety of criteria).

Issue 1: Snappy, aggressive behavior when somebody is trying to remove something 

In such a case, a multi-faceted approach is generally needed. Firstly, as mentioned, one would institute management by puppy proofing the area where the puppy is most often kept and removing any items the puppy should not have. This as mentioned, prevents rehearsal of the problematic behavior and helps set the puppy for success.

When time is available for active training and behavior modification, it is then possible to plan on working on some exercises. The goal of these exercises is to create a positive conditioned emotional response towards the owner approaching while the dog has access to something he may act protective about. A positive conditioned emotional response means simply a dog looking forward to something rather then dreading it. So in a dog who has guarded items in the past, a happy tail wag when the owner approaches rather than a growl, can be suggestive of a positive conditioned emotional response. 

  Since the goal of a good desensitization program is taking a gradual, baby-step approach, one would first start with items that are perceived less valuable to the dog, so in the case of a puppy who has growled over a shoe (which likely is perceived as super valuable because it is not always available) one may start with perhaps a toy the puppy always sees around and hasn't shown possessive behaviors over it the past.  

It's a good idea to not to overdo any exercises by doing them altogether and all in one setting. Puppies should also be granted some free time where they get to enjoy their toys in peace. A word of caution is needed: although some of these exercises can help nip resource guarding in the bud when caught early, instances of resource guarding can always happen despite lots of training. All it takes is for a dog one day to find something so valuable (like a stinky dead bird carcass, which is certainly something many puppy owners haven't had the opportunity to practice with) to cause him/her to revert to his instinct.

Practicing with trades 

The goal is to teach puppies that great things happen when their toy (or other item the puppy may have access to) is taken away. Owners should start with low value toys first and then move on to the next low-value items in list on the hierarchy of items guarded. It's important to consider here personal taste. For some dogs, certain toys may be higher in value than other types of toys. For example, some dogs may go bonkers over squeaky toys while others may like more toys to grab and shake. So compiling a personalized hierarchy of guarded items with the less likely to be guarded at the top of the list can hep. 

Once found something considered low-value by the puppy, the exercise would look like this. The puppy is provided with access to a low-value item and the person leaves. Then, the person starts walking by and every time he/she passes right by the puppy, a high value treat is tossed in his direction. This is done several times, until the puppy looks relaxed and starts showing signs of looking forward to the person passing by. 

Once a positive conditioned response is noted (the puppy looks happy when the owner approaches) it is possible to raise criteria, moving to the next step. In this case, it may be working on trades. Basically, when the puppy is chewing the toy or something else that is considered low-value, one can work on swapping the toy with something valuable that the puppy really likes. When trading, one will therefore need to use a dog's favorite edible chews. The big rule:  it's very important that whatever is offered is always higher in value than what the dog has.

One must also keep in mind durability. If a puppy has something that he's planning to chew for a while, such as a stick, one shouldn't just trade it for a single treat which will cause him to gobble it up and then return promptly to the stick. Instead, one should give something durable that will keep him busy for some time (like a large dog cookie to chew, bully stick, or a handful of his kibble if that's valued to the pup and more valuable than the item to trade). When working on low value toys, it is also possible to swap for a higher-value toy such as one the puppy hasn't seen for some time or a new toy.

So with the high-value food in the hands (making noise with the wrapper if the food has it can also aid in getting the pup's attention), the person should approach the puppy, show the food, and when the puppy shows interest, toss it at a far distance and safely retrieve the item. For cases where there are bite risks, it helps to toss this high-value treat past a door or baby gate, and once the dog is behind that door,  the door/baby gate is closed so the person can safely remove the object.

This method works well because on top of getting the dog to voluntary relinquish the object, it also teaches him the art of "fair trading." In other words, instead of dreading a person coming his way when he has a possession, he looks forward to it because after several trials, he has learned that the person has always something better to offer. The dog therefore anticipates something great is about to happen. Gradually, one can then move up the hierarchy of value, always paying attention to ensure the puppy is not tense and enjoying the exercise and offering things that are higher in value. 

Once the puppy or dog seems to do well in being approached and trading, and his emotional response has positively changed, it is possible to introduce the leave it and drop it commands so that one can have more control over certain situations. Here is a guide on how to train these: 

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/drop-it/

It goes without saying that puppies with resource guarding tendencies require lots of management and supervision in a household with children. A time can come when a child may drop something or try to grab something nearby the dog's reach (like a children's toy) and the dog will bite. Hence, the importance of tackling this early and with the in-person assistance of a professional. 

It is good he has some level of bite inhibition (doesn't cause much harm when biting), but this needs to be maintained and tackled early before he gets older and his jaw gets stronger and his permanent teeth are all in. So it's fundamental teaching good bite inhibition, here are some exercises:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/train-dog-take-treats-gently/

I will be addressing the other issues shortly in my next post. 

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation. 

[Adrienne]

2) About the reactions to the collar grabs. 

This can happen when puppies aren't used to being handled, or when they start to associate being grabbed by the collar with something unpleasant such as just being dragged, or put into a time-out or just away from his family. 

Once again, here, a mix of training and behavior modification is needed.

Management once again requires using alternate methods to collar grabs for the time being, at least until we can establish a strong positive conditioned response to collar grabs. One alternate method as mentioned, is calling him. Here is a guide for training dogs to come when called: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/recall/ Make sure to reward for coming when called with a treat or a  portion of his kibble or a toy to keep him busy while he's in the timeout zone to chill out a bit. 

Behavior modification once again entails desensitization and counterconditioning and ensuring he's kept under threshold throughout the exercises. An example of behavior modification for a puppy reactive to collar grabs may go as such: (please note once again, that every case is different, and therefore each program may need to be individualized).

One would slightly touch the collar, feed a a treat while touching the collar,  then remove the hand the moment the puppy is done eating the treat. This is repeated several times, until upon touching the collar, the puppy looks for treats.

Next, one would start raising criteria: one would put the fingers slightly under the collar, feed a treat, once puppy is done eating, one would remove the fingers from under the collar. This is rinsed and repeated until the pup seems happy upon the person holding on to the collar.

Next, one would grab the collar (without pulling) and feed a treat, once done eating, one would remove the fingers from under the collar and release. This is rinsed and repeated, until the pup seems happy with this. 

Next, one would grab the collar and gently let the pup walk a step, while showing a treat and feeding it once the pup moves and then, once done eating, he is released. This is rinsed and and repeated several times, until the pup seems happy with this.

Next, from a distance, one would call the puppy and when he arrives, the collar is grabbed, the pup is encouraged to walk a few steps and is given a treat. Once done eating, the pup is released until the pup seems happy with this. Criteria can be further increased by having a helper hold a treat nearby. One can grab the pup by the collar and lead him towards this person who feeds the treat. Or one can place a treat in a food bowl (without the puppy knowing) and we can guide the puppy towards the bowl. 

As seen, the goal is to make great things happen when the pup is grabbed by the collar. While many pups swerve when you try to grab them by the collar, in my puppy classes, pups are actually eager to be grabbed; which makes it tremendously helpful in case of an emergency (and it also helps teach pups to give in to leash pressure) once they can go on walks. 

It goes without saying that you should avoid grabbing your pup by the collar to correct him or do anything your dog in general finds unpleasant as this can trigger defensive behaviors. So it important to maintain positive associations with this. Also important for persistent cases is to rule out any medical conditions that could make a dog reluctant and not wanting to be touched (eg. ear infections, neck pain)

Next, will be addressing the reaction when sleeping. 

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation. 

 

[Adrienne]

3) The growling when sleeping and people walk by, if someone sits near him. 

This behavior tends to worry me somewhat when I hear about it. This is because dogs acting aggressively upon being woken up often react very quickly and without much thinking involved. They may sometimes skip the warning signs they would normally give when in an awakened state. The reaction often occurs as a startle response, with the aggressive display appearing almost reflexive.

The fact that he growls is somewhat reassuring, and it's great that you have been teaching your children not to approach him while he's sleeping, however, in cases as such, it's easy to lower the guard eventually. 

While a growl is communication, we must consider that with a growl, a bite can be just around the corner. It may happen one day that he may be more stressed than usual, or he may be in a deep REM sleep and awaken startled to the point of trying to bite. We should though avoid punishing a growl as that risks causing a dog who bites with no warning. You can read more about this here:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/growling-never-suppressed-dogs/

One should evaluate in dogs who growl when woken up whether the dog may be guarding a resting area (some dogs guard beds and sofas or their mats but they normally do this when they're awake or just about starting to snooze) or if they are simply reacting to being startled and just waking up. 

Excess reactivity may sometimes be seen in dogs who are in dire need of a nap. Puppies need a lot of sleep, and noises can stress them. Living on edge like this makes them startle more easily.

Such cases often require a close evaluation by a veterinarian or veterinary behaviorist. It is best to keep these dogs in an area away from any chaos (in a crate covered with a blanket, x-pen or behind a baby gate) so they don't get bumped by accident by well-meaning owners. This can also allow them to reach the deep REM sleep stages, so important for recuperating from daily stress. Calming aids such as DAP diffusers, playing calming music, calming supplements may help. 

Behavior modification for mild cases may entail tossing the dog a treat every time he is awakened (after he has been allowed plenty of rest), starting at first with a very light touch done with a long target stick or an "assess-a-hand" typically used in dogs shelters, for safety. The ultimate goal being creating a positive conditioned emotional response (+CER) upon being touched and awakened from sleep. Obviously, due to safety, this should be only done under the guidance of a dog behavior professional as done wrongly, it may worsen the behavior. More complex cases, may require strict management (dog always sleeping in crates/x-pen/behind a baby crate), and even medications for overly stressed dogs or dogs with a disorder known as "REM Behavior Disorder."

I hope this helps, please let me know if you have any questions. 

Best,

Adrienne

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog is showing aggressive tendencies, please play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional for safety and correct implementation.