poor socialization due to covid

[LaurelHopsicker]

I have a 12 month Golden Retriever who has been timid and leery of new environments since she was less than 8 weeks of age.  We have been trying to gradually introduce her dogs and she does well at controlled environments.  For example, at the dog groomers where she can interact with other dogs or on walks while on a leash.  However, a couple weeks ago my husband had her at a dog park where she was approached by several dogs at once.  She was obviously frightened and went into attack mode.  I actually saw this today when two dogs came racing up to her from behind and she went into fight mode.  She had been introduced to them earlier.  These two dogs only wanted to play.  I recognize that she was terrified and I was right there to intervene so none of the dogs were injured.

I am wondering what to do, how to help her in slow stages.  I have no idea how to handle this.  All dog training sessions with other dogs have been closed due to Covid-19.  thanks for any and all help.

[Adrienne]

Hello and welcome to the forums,

 

The fact that she was timid and leery from such a young age possibly tells us that there can be some genetics at play, or perhaps the pup has endured some negative experiences and/or the breeder failed to properly socialize the pup. In any the case, the past is the past. 

 

Slow and steady wins the race with these fellows. Important is to avoid some overwhelming exposures such as the ones you have described at the dog park. Too many dogs ganging up against her is too much too handle. Exposure to multiple dogs can be counterproductive at such a delicate stage where she is feeling overwhelmed and defensive. This leads to exacerbating things rather than ameliorating them.  

 

I know many dog owners would love to have their dogs go to dog parks and mingle with other dogs, but these aren't the best places for remedial socialization. Sure, for people socialization yes (too many dog owners chit-chat rather than watching their dogs) but many dogs struggle in dog parks due to rude, bully dogs. On top of this, we need to consider that dogs aren't monitored well and it's easy for dogs to become stressed and defensive if things aren't interrupted in a timely manner. 

 

So it's all a matter of baby steps. You have identified two circumstances that she does well with: at the groomer's and on walks while on leash. This can provide a good starting point. You can find a dog she can walk happily with (at a comfortable distance) and try to create a bond by scheduling fun and rewarding routine outings where you can further work on creating positive associations -more on this below. Do this several times and look for what is known as a "positive conditioned response." In other words, watch her carefully for happy signs of anticipation upon seeing this other dog from a distance and getting ready to go on a walk. This can be a happy tail wag and joyful expression in the eyes. 

 

At 12 months, your dog is at the adolescent stage, an age where dog-to-dog interactions also tend to change. You can read more about this here :https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/

 

So here are some general guidelines for remedial socialization. The most important guideline to follow is to provide structured socialization in controlled settings so that your puppy develops more confidence being around other dogs.  

-Avoid Overwhelming Situations

Very important is to not put the dog in overwhelming situations. This only stresses them out more and may turn avoidance/fear into defensive behavior where the dog will feel the need to defend herself by barking, growling or even biting.

Rehearsal of these behaviors can quickly put roots and become the dog's default way of interacting with any approaching dogs. If somebody approaches with their dogs towards your dog, do not feel bad. Explain you are working on training your dog and be an advocate for your pup, turning away and walking her in the opposite direction (as you feed some tasty treats). 

-Watch the Body Language

What is considered stressful or overwhelming is ultimately from the dog's perspective not ours. Let your dog be the judge of what is too much for her. While dogs can't talk to inform you what is fine for her and what is not, you can grasp how she feels by simply looking at her body language. Here are some important signs to watch out for: 

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/signs-fear-stress-dogs/

-Slow and Steady Wins the Race

Dogs need to be gradually introduced to other dogs in very controlled settings. The goal is to keep the dog under threshold so that she doesn't feel stressed. Baby steps are required, progressing very gradually always following the dog's comfort level and body language.

In behavior modification, the term "desensitization" is used to depict such gradual, systematic introductions. It aims to make dogs more comfortable around other dogs, without overwhelming them. More about this here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/

Important is also keeping dogs under threshold as much as possible:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/

-Create Positive Associations

In behavior modification the term "counterconditioning" is used to depict the process of creating positive associations with other dogs. Ideally, it should be used along with desensitization, so that puppies are exposed in gradual, systematic settings while changing their emotional responses. Here's more on counterconditioning: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/

There are several methods based on counterconditioning. One is offering treats when a dog appears and stop giving treats when the dog is out sight.  This exercise is based on Jean Donaldson's Open Bar/Closed Bar method: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/open-bar-closed-bar/

This is done several times, with the goal of noticing a conditioned emotional response. In other words, the dog looks forward to seeing the other dog because so many great things happen.

Another good exercise is Leslie McDevitt's "Look at That Dog" exercise. In this case, the puppy is simply fed tasty treats for just watching other dogs walk by at a distance from which the puppy feels safe and comfortable. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/

This can be started by watching other dogs walk by across the street from an indoor's window, from a car window with the car parked nearby a pet store. It can then progress on walks and then even watching other dogs play at the dog park from a distance.

A variant of this exercise using a clicker is known as "click the trigger." You simply click the clicker and feed a treat every time your dog looks at a dog. 

-Remedial Dog  Socialization Classes (aka Reactive Rover Classes)

Once your dog seems more comfortable walking with dogs or seeing them, hopefully once the pandemic is over, it may help to enroll in a remedial dog socialization class. This can help build on what your dog has learned and can involve closer interactions if your dog seems fine or ready with that.  Look for classes held by a force-free dog trainer committed to using positive methods. Inform the trainer about your dogs' struggles and work with your trainer in creating structured set-ups for remedial socialization. Your trainer may match-up your dog with suitable  'teacher dogs' who can help build some confidence.

-Always use caution!

A disclaimer is warranted here, since you mentioned intervening to prevent any dogs from getting injured. Try your best to avoid  putting your dog in overwhelming situations such as going to dog parks or being around dogs off leash. This can lead to fights with other dogs and redirected bites when well-meaning dog owners get in between trying to separate the dogs. A plan should be in place for separating dogs without having to physically get in between (such as using loud sounds -air horn, can with pennies- spraying water). If your dog shows aggressive tendencies, consult  with a dog behavior professional (DACVB, CAAB, force-free dog behavior consultant specializing in aggressive behavior consultations). This is important for safety and correct implementation of behavior modification. 

Hope this helps,

Best,

Adrienne