Jumping and biting

[PatriciaAbild]

My English Cream Golden Retriever 8 mos old is jumping and biting my husband and I. 
No bites to others so far. We ignore her and turn away and she nips at our back. We walk her on long walks 2x a day. Most of the time she’s fine. She’s only crated at night when we go to bed. Usually when we take away a shoe she grabbed or needs to go #2 she gets this aggression. Any tips? Do we need a pro?

[Adrienne]

Hello and welcome to the forums,

To better understand your situation, I would like to have some more information.

How long have you had your dog? 

If you had her since a pup, did she always behave this way or is this a new behavior?

How is her bite inhibition (when she bites does she break skin?, leave teeth marks? )

Do you have children in the home?

Is the jumping and biting happen only contingent upon you grabbing something she has or need to be taken out to potty or does she it also in other circumstances? If so, please list them. 

Is the biting and jumping accompanied by growling?

Has she received any training so far?

Thanks for the extra info.

 

[PatriciaAbild]

We have had her since a pup. She started the jumping and biting a month ago. It doesn’t break the skin. We are in our early 60’s and my husband is home with her all day. This is our 3rd large do we had a lab and a shepherd mix before her that each lived12 yrs. We give her lots of attention as she demands. Our lab was high maintenance as well but never nipped. Sometimes if she’s had too much petting or not in the mood she will start to nip. We love her dearly and do not mistreat her. She has lots of toys and she gets a bully stick for 10 minutes each night The aggression may be to show dominance. We just don’t want her nipping to become ingrained

[Adrienne]

Thanks for the extra details, they are very helpful!

At 8 months, she is at the peak of the adolescent stage, so it's not unexpected to see some behavior changes during this time. You can read more about the adolescent stage here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/

I am glad to hear that she doesn't break skin, that gives an ameliorating outlook to the situation. And it also helps that it's just you and your husband and that it sounds like there are no children in the home. It's also a good thing that the behavior occurs in specific contexts as this gives us predictability and more control over the situation and that her new behavior has been occurring for no more than a month. It's good to nip behaviors in the bud before they have a chance of establishing too much. And of course, the fact that your husband is home with her all day is a big plus and it's also a big plus that she is dearly loved and given lots of attention!

I will be tackling the behaviors you have mentioned in several posts. I will be starting with her reaction when she grabs a shoe.

In such cases, we are  likely dealing with some resource guarding. She values the shoe a lot and doesn't want to give it up. She therefore becomes tense and rebels to having it taken away. In such cases, we must work on establishing a foundation of trust rather than engaging in an outdated rank-reduction program as often suggested in cases of assumed "dominance. " You can read more about the dominance myth here and why most behaviorists and dog behavior associations stray away from rank-reduction methods which have been proven to exacerbate aggression: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dominance/

Cases of resource guarding respond best to behavior modification that focuses on exercises based on desensitization and counterconditioning. 

 Desensitization is a behavior modification procedure that entails systematic, gradual  exposure (baby steps) to stimuli or situations perceived by the dog as aversive or unpleasant. You can read more about this here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/

A good desensitization program therefore aims in taking baby steps and keeping the dog comfortable, which often means starting with some very easy to achieve goals,  always ensuring that dog is not over threshold. If a dog reacts, (tenses up, growls) that's a sign that we have progressed too fast and need to take a few steps back in the process. You can read more about threshold levels here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/

On top of using desensitization, important is too also add counterconditioning. You can read more about counterconditioning here:  https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/

In a dog who resource guards objects like a shoe, this would mean using baby steps while also creating positive associations. A dog who guards an object is a dog who lacks trust-she basically fears that the object will be taken away. Moving close to remove the shoe, chasing the dog around, or trying to remove it from the mouth, makes the dog feel uneasy and confirms her biggest fear: that we are trying to take things away, BUT what happens if instead of taking the shoe away, we offer something else that is *superior* in value for a great exchange? Introducing the art of fair trading!

Swapping by Offering Something Higher in Value 

So in this case, let's think about an emergency situation. The dog has gotten possession of the shoe and we want to retrieve it as safely as possible without risking to be nipped and without allowing the dog to rehearse the jumping and nipping situation (because the more a dog rehearses a problem behavior, the more it becomes ingrained as you rightfully are concerned about). So what to do in this case? We would have to put ourselves a bit in our dog's mind and think about something our dog will value more than the shoe itself. 

How about a peanut butter stuffed Kong? Or maybe a bully stick? Or what about a bottle filled with some treats and kibble?  https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/high-school/the-bottle-game/

Basically, anything that is valued by the dog and that will surpass the pleasure of lying down to gnaw on a shoe, but this time having something edible to enjoy that requires a bit of time to work on (because dogs enjoy the duration of gnawing on things and enjoy the challenge too). It goes without saying, that having these goodies prepared in advance so to exchange them at a moment's notice (before the dog has a chance of destroying the shoe) can help a whole lot. 

Now, there's method and method for exchanging. With dogs who act aggressively and bite, we want to do so as safely as possible and without upsetting the dog in thinking we are there once again to *remove* something. So what I do is that I make a lot of noise from the kitchen when preparing the item or will make a lot of noise unwrapping a bully stick or long-lasting treat from its wrapping (which will cause most dogs to stop chewing and pay attention) so that they know what is coming and this makes things easier. After ward, I will approach the dog, show the item I have to offer and will toss it at a safe distance so that I can safely retrive the item as the dog moves to grab it. With dogs I am not too familiar with or dogs who have a bite record, I will add an extra precaution of tossing the treat past a door or baby gate so that I can close it as the dog moves away to get it, just in case he/she has a change of heart and decides to come back to grab it, or in the worse scenario, attack.

This is therefore the general protocol I use for emergencies, because normally, I would try my best to keep objects that provoke resource guarding out of the way unless I am planning on working on the issue. This brings us back to behavior modification. 

Changing the Underlying Emotions

Behavior modification for dogs who tend to grab items is to gradually teach them to relax and not feel threatened when we approach. We can accomplish this by taking baby steps as mentioned using easy to achieve goals such as training the dog to drop things that are very low value at first, always swapping them for things that are more valuable.  You can read more about how the drop it cue is trained here; https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/drop-it/

The goal is to obtain what is known as a conditioned positive emotional response. In other words the dog looks forward to us approaching because through several reps, the dog has learned that great things happen when we approach. We are no longer attempting to remove things, but are offering better stuff, so the dog happily anticipates our approach. You can read more about conditioned emotional responses here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/conditioned-emotional-response-cer/

It will also come handy to train a fluent response to leave it, in case you catch your dog thinking about grabbing something that he or she shouldn't have. Once again, we want to create happy anticipation in having the dog leave items;  here is the guide for "leave it": https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/

It can also turn helpful training a reliable response to the smacking sound, to divert the dog at a moment's notice as needed, and offering something tasty to maintain a fluent response that can turn handy in many different situations: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/the-airplane-game/the-smacking-sound/

Finally, goldens are very mouthy dogs, they were bred to retrieve downed birds and deliver them with a soft mouth. These are working dogs, so they benefit from being kept mentally stimulated on top of exercise, so training, brain games and food puzzles can help provide outlets for their natural behaviors which makes for a happier, more fulfilled dog. 

So to recap: good goals may be:

-Managing the dog's environment when we are not training (that is, keeping items the dog should not have out of the way). This is to prevent rehearsal of the problem behavior.

-Having an emergency plan in place in case the dog gets a hold of something and we need to swap, but haven't trained a strong drop it yet. Keeping these items to swap ready is extra helpful. 

-Training a fluent response to drop it up to the point of creating a conditioned emotional response. 

-Training a fluent response to leave it up to the point of the dog looking forward to leaving things because we offer something valuable. 

-Training a fluent response to our smacking sound in case we need to divert our dog's attention quickly. 

-Providing outlets for natural behaviors and keeping that teenager mind stimulated. 

You asked whether you need to work with a pro. I always recommend working with a pro when there are cases of aggression (risks for biting, growling etc). This is for various reasons. I will briefly cover some. To work well, behavior modification requires that we work with the dog under threshold. This often means recognizing the most subtle signs of stress in dogs and professionals have years of observing dogs under their belt, so they may recognize many early signs even before the growling happens. We are talking about very subtle signs such as a quick nose lick as you can see in Kendall's Ladder of Aggression displayed here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dogs-dont-bite-blue/

Behavior modification often proceeds in a yo-yo fashion. It's not always just straightforward and progressive. If a dog does well dropping a ball, but then he doesn't do well dropping a sock, this means going back a few steps and practicing more on creating a reliable response to lower value things before progressing further to things like socks. Behavior modification therefore often requires judgement calls that a professional can make by closely observing the dog.  And of course, bites are always possible, so working with a professional can help prevent/reduce the chances  as him/her can watch closely for early signs of things escalating. Not to mention that every case is different and therefore may need a more individualized approach based on accurate history taking and close observations. 

And this is why my posts are always accompanied by disclaimers as the one below:

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog shows signs of potential aggression (lunging, barking, growling, snapping, biting) for safety, please consult with a dog behavior professional who uses force-free behavior modification techniques for direct in-person guidance. Articles, videos and general info found in the forums or course (or any online source) are not meant to replace in-person training/instruction. By using this course and forum, you are waiving any liability claims or other type of claims related to any dogs' behavior against you or others.

[Adrienne]

Issue 2: Acting Aggressive when going number 2

Most dogs when they need to have a bowel movement, will acknowledge the sensation and just go to the door and then proceed to find a spot where to do the deed. For other dogs, pooping is a big ordeal and they may even show signs of stress. Some dogs will get antsy and start pacing back and forth. Others may get a crazy face and start acting up, jumping and nipping on people, chewing on stuff and zooming around the room.

Sometimes, puppies or dogs may show some rather subtle signs, but when they are ignored, they may try to use more evident signs and may therefore feel the need to escalate, consequently, they will do what comes instinctive to them which can mean nipping to vent their frustration or to just get your attention in hopes of being escorted out.

When done delicately, this can be an endearing trait. The dog will very gently grab their owners' hands or arms to conduct them towards the door almost as if saying something along the lines of: "Please come with me." Some dogs may be more grabby and rough. Some others may act almost aggressive. 

Now, sometimes when dogs develop certain behaviors out of the blue,  they may stem from medical problems. Pain can cause dogs to behave in uncharacteristic ways, and some dog may develop pain when having a bowel movement. Dogs learn through associations, so they may get anxious when they predict a painful bowel movement and this can cause them to behave in unusual ways. In particular, dogs may develop pain upon defecation due to anal gland problems or some types of tumors that can develop there. Not saying this is necessarily your case, but always worthy of mentioning the importance of ruling medical conditions out.

So what would be some options to reduce this type of behavior? Here are some general pointers; 

-Consult With Your Vet. If your dog's aggressive behavior before pooping has started out of the blue or it has been persisting for some time, it maybe important starting with a veterinarian visit so to rule out any underlying medical problems. Your vet can perform a physical examination, in particular checking your dog's anal glands, and having a fecal test done to check for intestinal parasites.

-Prevent Rehearsal of the Behavior. As with the shoe-chewing behavior, practice makes perfect. If your dog acts aggressive contingent upon pooping, you have the advantage of knowing when the behavior occurs so that you can take steps to pre-empt it. If you can prevent the behavior from occurring in the first place, you can therefore be in control of the situation and prevent the behavior from establishing. You can do this by taking your dog outside to potty before she develops an impellent need to go potty and not letting her back inside until he has successfully gone.

Training your dog to go potty on command can also come handy so that your dog learns control her bowel movements and goes reliably when you tell her to. This can take some time to master, and you'll need to always be outside with your dog ready to praise and reward, but it is worthy for the long run. Here's a guide for training this: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/potty-on-command/

-Install a Doggy Door. A doggy door may not be the best solution, but it can work well in specific circumstances. With a doggy door installed, your dog takes her bathroom habits into her own hands without depending on you being the doorman. With a doggy door in place, your dog should therefore learn to go outside as needed without having to nip you or your husband to grab your attention and open the door.

While doggy doors can be convenient, a main problem with doggy doors is that, once dogs learn to use it, they may start spending more and more time outside, which can lead to them sometimes engaging in troublesome behaviors such as digging, chewing things and barking at noises outside.

-Reward Early Signs. Sometimes, all that is needed to solve the issue is recognizing the earliest signs of needed to be taken out and rewarding those by taking the dog outside promptly. Therefore, be extra vigilant and watch for early signs such as pacing, acting antsy, walking back and forth towards the door. Reward these early signs by tossing a few treats on the ground (keep them in your pocket or treat bag so that they're handy) as you walk towards the door and take your dog outside. Dropping the treats on the ground helps the dog focus on the ground and chill rather than acting antsy and thinking about jumping and biting you to get you to open the door.

-Train an Alternate Signal As mentioned, biting can be a dog's overly-aggressive way of signaling that she needs to go out. In such cases, you can train your dog to engage in an alternate behavior that is meant to replace the biting. For example, you can try teaching your dog to pull at a string of bells attached to the door she normally uses to go out to relieve herself. Most dogs take very well to bell-training and will learn to shake them to signal they need to go out instead of grabbing onto humans!

Another option is teaching your dog to bark to communicate his need to go outside. You would basically train her to speak and then ask it by the door and then reward by opening the door:  https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-your-dog-to-speak-bark/Dogs who are naturally predisposed to being vocal may take very well to learning this.

Whichever method you choose, make sure to be fast in letting your dog out, in case your dog decides to use a more convincing way to be taken outside, which may involve getting antsy and biting!

While teaching your dog to ring a bell or bark to be taken outside can be convenient, a disclaimer is warranted here: it can come with some drawbacks such as dogs asking to be let out all the time just for having fun in the yard. This is why I rather prefer owners taking their dogs out on a schedule to potty and training them to potty on command. 

As always, with dogs who demonstrate aggressive behavior working with a professional is always recommended. A board-certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB), a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) or a dog trainer well-versed into working aggression cases using force-free behavior modification can help work on this problem.

[Adrienne]

Issue number 3:  Sometimes if she’s had too much petting or is not in the mood she will start to nip.

It would be important in this case, respecting her limit and recognizing early signs of her reaching her limit. We don't want to get her to rehearse the nipping behavior. When dogs nip this way, the behavior is reinforced because it usually makes us stop petting them. Soon, the behavior puts roots and the dog will learn to nip more and more and possibly, earlier and earlier. 

It would be important though once again using desensitization and counterconditioning to teach her to tolerate being handled and enjoying it more. As always baby steps and working under threshold levels. Always aiming for a nice conditioned emotional response. Breeders should start this work, but not all breeders take the time to do this and recommend that owners continue. It may not be too late to work on some of these exercises, making them fun games:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/exercises-to-teach-puppies-to-tolerate-touch/

And the basic handling game under this section may come handy too. Rather than sitting on the floor, it can be done as well by sitting on a chair or couch with the legs extended and petting the dog as she walks by to eat tossed kibble:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/

I hope this helps! Keep me posted on how things go!

Best,

Adrienne 

Disclaimer: behavior modification comes with risks. If your puppy or dog shows signs of potential aggression (lunging, barking, growling, snapping, biting) for safety, please consult with a dog behavior professional who uses force-free behavior modification techniques for direct in-person guidance. Articles, videos and general info found in the forums or course (or any online source) are not meant to replace in-person training/instruction. By using this course and forum, you are waiving any liability claims or other type of claims related to any dogs' behavior against you or others.