Puppy Can't be left alone/Crate training not working

[ANNE SWANSON]

Hi, 

 

We have a 12-week-old puppy that came from her mom and a litter of 8.  We didn't know quite what to do with her at night as we wanted her to sleep alone in the living room or a gated off section of our kitchen at the beginning because we have two very old cats who sleep with us that we are trying to get her acquainted with.  So we tried that and she cries and cries, not for 15 minutes but for hours and hours.  She goes nuts and eventually breaks down the gate that is holding her back.  (We also tried the crate).  We have tried giving her potty breaks to see if that's the case but she just keeps crying.  We've had her for 4 weeks and my wife just sleeps outside with her in the living room.  She gets super whiney if she's even left in a room alone or on the other side of a gate.  

 

We've left her in her crate with a kong and treats and left the house and watched her on the camera.  Her anxiety just seems to get worse as time goes by.  She starts to throw herself at the crate door, etc.  What worried me the most about this is that she started not wanting to go in the crate anymore, where before I would tell her to 'go to her room' and she would run in by herself.  We tried little bits at a time to start and increasing time and that didn't work.  

I don't know what the right protocol is because she is so young. I just want to do the right thing.  

 

We are desperate for help.  Please don't think us naive.  We really have tried letting her cry it out.

[JMFS]

No judgement here!  You may be asked some questions that you've already answered (rare, but it can happen), or we may ask for information that you've already done or think is kind of common sense.  It all helps with troubleshooting.  🙂

Momo was fine with the crate until I tried to leave him alone in the living room.  I ended up moving his crate into our room and that sorted things out.  Eventually I decided it wasn't so bad having him in the room - he was pretty darn quiet.  I moved him to the foot of the bed and all was well.  Something to consider so your wife can at least get back to the bedroom. 

So here are the usual questions (I see there's another post, but I haven't peeked at that, yet):

Do you know where she slept when she was still with her mom?
What breed?
Is she spayed?
Do y'all have a routine in place?  It can help immensely when dogs know what's coming.
Does she settle when your wife is in the living room with her?

That's all I can think of for now because you have the other bases covered.  I'm sure Adrienne will have more, but I wanted to try to get you started.

 

[ANNE SWANSON]

Hi, and thanks for responding.  I'm super happy to answer questions to try to get to the bottom of this.

Before we took her home she slept in a garage that had A/C (this is florida) and had a doggie door where her mom and any of the 8 puppies could go in and out of at their discretion into a yard.  

Her Dad is a husky and her mom is, well I'm not sure.  I will attach a photo and I'm happy to hear people's ideas on what she might be.  

She is not spayed yet because she just turned 12 weeks.  

Our routine is so-so.  Mostly because of her.  

She does settle at night when my wife sleeps on the couch, and doesn't even sleep on the couch with her.  She mostly sleeps through the night unless my wife gets up.  

We tried the crate in the room when we first got her, but she wouldn't settle down.  We had to have it closed because of our old timer cats that sleep with us. 

Thanks!

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Hi there!

Welcome to the forums! I keep looking at your pup's pictures and don't really see a 12 week puppy. Your "pup" looks much older than that! Can it be they told you 12 months? I would suggest having a vet take a look at her and her teeth to get an estimate of her actual age. 

With this in mind, most likely your dog has never been crated in her life and that can explain her strong reaction. Even puppies who have never been crated when they were in the home with their breeders, may strongly object to being crated. With these dogs we need to go super slow and at their pace. 

If we let them too long in the crate and this causes them stress, their anxiety will worsen and they will then dread being closed in it. I would go back to basics and keep the crate door always open and let her find goodies and toys in it. I would latch the door so that it always remains open. I wouldn't close her in it until she shows signs of being more comfortable in it and going inside it on her own. Even when she's fine with that, she'll need to be closed for very brief periods that she can tolerate, avoiding letting her reach the point of feeling anxious. 

Most dogs want to sleep nearby their family, and they suffer greatly when they are separated. Being that she lived with her littermates and mom before, she likely had all the company she needed and now she is suddenly fearful of being left alone. 

One idea that comes to mind is getting a tall and sturdy exercise pen and keeping her in it besides your bed with a comfy dog bed inside it, hoping that she doesn't try to knock it over or jump over it. With your reassuring presence nearby, she should be satisfied of not being alone, although I am afraid of her wanting to go after the cats and trying to knock it over, so your are between a rock and a hard place right now.

Do your cats sleep on the bed? 

If your dog is jumper, you may need an exercise pen with a cover, or you can try a fabric playpen. I have been keeping dogs for board and training in my bedroom at all times in fabric play pens for years, but I always monitor new dogs carefully (I am a light sleeper) to make sure they wouldn't try to chew or dig.  https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/pet-life-all-terrain-lightweight-easy-folding-wire-framed-collapsible-travel-pet-playpen-pink-and-grey

Please though consider that I haven't tested play pens in a bedroom with cats, so I am not sure how much predatory drive your dog has and if at night she may persist in trying to get out. So keep this possible danger in mind. The safety of your cats comes first so you'll have to use your judgement based on how your new dog acts. 

A day of training, walks, play and brain games helps a lot to have dogs willing to sleep. A DAP diffuser plugged in the bedroom helps as well. Some dogs struggle a bit the first 2-3 nights, but as the routine set in, they ger better and better. Letting them know you're right there next to them, and letting them sniff your hand often helps the first nights. 

With some extra space in a play pen compared to a crate and no previous history of feeling stress in it, she may be more accepting of it. However, consider that some dogs have concomitant containment phobias and may struggle being enclosed no matter where the owners are.

If she appears super anxious and unable to settle within a reasonable time, despite the food fed in it, the lights being turned off, your reassuring presence and a day of providing lots of fun, then we may be back to the drawing board and will likely have to find another solution that doesn't involve any type of confinement until she does better with it or another strategy is found (such as keeping her loose in the bedroom and erecting an ex-pen around your bed with you and your cats. You may need multiple panels for this. This though needs to be evaluated carefully for safety in case your cats may jump over the pen or your new dog may jump over it-so several things to consider. And of course, it can be very inconvenient if you need to get up at night to use the rest room!)  And of, this works well only if your dog is not the type of dog that in the middle of the night will start chewing on stuff!

So if you try the play pen option, make sure to toss a super duper tempting long-lasting goodie in the pen at nap-time (like a bully stick, large cookie) and establish it as a routine.

To help pave the path for success, during the day, you can do the first 3 exercises of love the crate, but using the play pen: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/love-the-crate/ Even better, try getting her to use the play pen open for a few nights when you still sleep on the couch before moving it to the bedroom and keeping it closed. Simply, lie down on the couch, play the pen next to you and toss food in it and see if she'll lie down in a comfy bed/mat next to it. 

If you need smaller steps,  lie down on the couch with the mat next to the couch and encourage her to sleep on it and feed goodies on it and praise her for using it. Then, after a few nights of sleeping on the mat, place it in the open play pen and see if she's willing to go inside to sleep on the mat, you can place treats on the mat to encourage her to use it there and sleep on it. Then after a few nights of that, start closing the play pen. Then, move the play pen with the mat in your bedroom and keep the pen closed. You may need further intermediate steps based on how she reacts. If at any time she appears stressed, take that as a sign that you need to take some steps back and proceed more slowly. 

Here is a guide on training a dog to lie on a mat: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ to get you started. 

A safer option may be erecting a tall baby gate by the bedroom entrance so that your dog cannot get into the bed room and keeping the exercise pen behind that so she can still see you and feel reassured. You can talk to her to let her know you are near the first days to reassure her. This option though isn't without risk if your older cats are agile enough to jump over the baby gate and into the play pen.

Dogs suffering from anxiety of being left alone need to first feel safe and reassured especially when they are new to our home. Then, we need to take a very gradual step-by-step approach to get them to progress. So we can start with her being in an exercise pen/play pen in the bedroom taking all safety precautions as possible and then gradually moving it farther and farther away if you do not want her in the bedroom long term. 

As we tackle this night-time issue, then during the day, we want to work on gradually letting her feel more and more comfortable being left alone and fostering in her some more independence. I will be posting some protocols for dogs suffering from anxiety when being left alone in the next post. 

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Here are some general guidelines for dogs who struggle being  left alone. This is just a general sample, therefore not to be used as a recommendation for a specific case, considering that every dog is different and needs an individualized approach under the guidance of a professional.. 

What's needed?

Interactive toys, treats, food, a mat, baby gates, vet-prescribed medications for the most severe cases, possibly vet-recommended calming aids/nutraceuticals  for the milder ones, and some technological gadgets such as remote monitoring devices and/or automatic treat dispensers can be used in the exercises. Although optional, the use of these technological gadgets come extra handy considering that they allow to monitor dogs remotely so to evaluate whether it's a good time to raise criteria or whether a dog is being pushed too hard.

A safezone will also need to be established. This safezone is the dog's confinement area where the exercises will be performed. For comfort, it is best to use an area that is central to family activities such as an office, kitchen or living room. Dogs who enjoy their crate, exercise pen or playpen and love to lounge in it, can have it placed in the safezone as long as these enclosures remain open as some dogs with separation anxiety suffer from concomitant containment phobias. A safezone should be blocked out by a baby gate or in homes with open-plan layouts, a super wide gate may be needed.

 1: Protocol For Clingy Dogs Who Follow Owners Room- to- Room

One thing many dogs suffering from separation anxiety share is extra clinginess, so much so, that many dog owners have started to nickname their dogs "Velcro Dogs." These dogs follow their owners from one room to another and like to sleep by their owners' feet so to be the first alerted when their owners are about to get up and walk around.

This component of treatment for separation anxiety in dogs needs its proper protocol since it would be non-productive starting practicing outdoor absences if these dogs aren't even able to tolerate brief absences within the home. The goal of these exercises is to gradually build on distance until the dog can be left in a room while the owner is in another.

On top of these exercises, it's ideal to encourage these dogs to sleep at night on their own bed or mat and sleep there as well during the day (rather than sleeping constantly on the owner's lap, glued to the owner's body or at the owner's feet).

Note: some dogs are particularly attached to one person. To start the exercises easily, it is best to start with the person the dog is less attached to and then progress using the person the dog is attached to.

Step 1:

The first step entails having the dog to be able to relax and cope without following their owners everywhere. These dogs need to learn to perform brief sit/stays or down/stays on a mat or other comfy place while the owner walks around, but initially remains always in the dog's sight.

Here is how to train these:

Sit:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/sit/

Down: 

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/lie-down/

Stay:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/stay/

Stay on a mat:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/

Initially these sit/stays and down/stays should be very brief for just 1-2 seconds while the owner just takes a step or two away in various directions and then returns to reward. Criteria is then raised with the owner just walking a few steps away (3-4) and then returning to reward.

Gradually, distance and duration can be added, but it's important to make sure to not make increases in time and distance predictable as dogs will soon come to predict this increase in difficulty and may grow incrementally anxious. To avoid this, mix in shorter (less time) stays and closer stays (less distance) frequently. For example, 2 second stay, then 4, then 3, then five, then 1, then 4, then 6, then 2 etc or 2 steps away, then 1, then 3, then 4, then 1, etc.

Distractions at some point can be added as well. Clap your hands as you walk away, count to five out loud, turn your back to your dog, lift your arms, walk around your dog etc. If your dog ever breaks the stay just say a casual "oops" and send your dog back to the area where he was asked to stay. Resume the exercise, this time making it a bit less difficult before progressing to asking for more.

Many clingy dogs follow their owners every time they get up from sitting. If your dog gets ready to follow you every time you are sitting on a chair or couch, and you put your hand on the arm rest or put down the remote, practice sit/stays and down/stays as you repeat these actions over and over. Then increase criteria, and start to get up repeatedly from your chair/couch/. Then get up and take a few steps and may be even walk around your dog and go back to sitting.

These exercises should be done until fluent and the dog appears totally relaxed and no longer eager to follow. End the sessions with a jackpot of treats.

Step 2:

Gradually increase distance/duration. With longer duration, it's best to request down/stays to prevent tiring. Take more steps away (from standing or sitting) and for gradually longer times and start going out of sight.

Ask your dog to down/stay on a mat as you briefly get out of view behind a wall or door for a split second, then return and reward. Repeat several times as you gradually mix in shorter absences and longer absences and shorter distances with farther distances, making sure to not allow you dog to detect an incremental pattern of difficulty.

You can mix in brief errands too such as opening/closing a closet, grabbing a beer from the fridge or closing a window as long as they don't cause you to be out of sight for too long.

These exercises should be done until fluent and the dog appears totally relaxed. Always end the sessions with a jackpot of treats.

Step 3:

Increase more the distance and duration. Install a baby gate, hide several treats around the enclosed area, send your dog there and have your dog explore his new confinement area and find the goodies. Leave the baby gate open for a couple of days so that the dog can freely visit and discover goodies in there

Next, practice briefs stays as you get in and out of the baby gate and return. Stay always in sight. Gradually increase the time you stay out as always mixing in briefer stays with longer ones, but not more than a minute in length.

At some point, get out of the baby gate and start preparing a stuffed Kong that can be easily unstuffed in just a minute or so. Place the stuffed Kong behind the baby gate where your dog can see it and smell it and cannot get it. Your dog should try to get the Kong. Wait for a little bit of frustration to set in such as your dog trying to paw it or whine. Grab the Kong and give it to your dog as you remain in view at a distance behind the baby gate for 1 minute. Return inside.

Repeat, reloading the Kong again making it more challenging to unstuff and then less challenging, so that you can increase the the time you stay out as always mixing in briefer stays with longer ones. Try to return when you know your dog is just about to finish unstuffing his Kong.

Step 4:

Start incorporating the treasure hunt game, using a portion of your dog's meals as outlined in the course. 

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-treasure-hunt/

Have your dog sit/stay or down/stay as you get a portion of your dog's meal allowance and hide the kibble around. Have your dog watch you in anticipation and then as you leave the room and release your dog. Allow your dog to hunt as you are briefly out of sight.

Return and repeat the exercise hiding the remaining portion of your dog's meal allowance and leaving as your dog goes on his hunt. As always, gradually increase the time you stay out of sight, mixing in briefer stays with longer ones, but not more than a minute in length.

Alternatively, in lieu of the treasure hunt game, you can stuff a slow food dispenser such as a Kong Wobbler, Buster Cube or regular Kong with the kibble and let your dog work on it while you are away.

At some point, start delaying your returns a bit so that your dog has finished hunting or eating from the Kong but doesn't appear to anxious about running out of food and being alone.

 2: Protocol for Uncoupling Pre-Departure Cues

Dogs in general are masters in reading body language and learning all the cues that culminate into our departures. It's therefore not surprising when they start acting nervous when dog owners get up, have breakfast, and then put on makeup, shave, brush hair, put shoes on (as in your case!) and grab the keys. These are all pre-departure cues that put dogs on high alarm, as these cues have been chained one to another and associated with departures.

Uncoupling these associations requires some work. The work encompasses desensitizing to the pre-departure cues and breaking up their associations with the departures. These exercises are done when not leaving the home. Make sure that you therefore have time set aside for this.

To start, compile a list of behaviors you perform normally when heading out and identify the ones your dog seems to react to. Then, place them in order chronologically, starting with the one that is farthest away from leaving the house.

You will then work on exposing your dog to these behaviors starting with the first and then chaining them one by one until the dog becomes uninterested in them as they lose value due to them no longer leading to departures.

For instance, if your list looks something like this: put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys and walk out the door, your exercises will look something like this: (please note, sit on the couch/watch TV is an example, you can do many other things that your dog associates with you being home like knitting, washing the dishes etc.) In your case though, you may need to work more on the shoe component taking a very gradual approach so not to evoke anxiety. Your vet may recommend meds to lower the threshold. 

Put on shoes, sit on the couch, watch TV (when you sit down and watch TV or read a book or go prepare a meal, do so for a few minutes each time)

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, sit on the couch, watch TV

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on the couch, watch TV

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, sit on the couch, watch TV

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door slightly, close door, sit on the couch watch TV

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, then back in, close door, return, sit on the couch watch TV

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on couch, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door (with you outside), quickly reopen door, close door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, sit on couch, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door (with you outside), lock the door, unlock the door, return, sit on couch watch TV.

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door (with you outside), and increase duration of staying outside gradually, but for no more than half a minute (always mixing in shorter absences in the midst of longer ones), then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

Note: If your dog seems upset by any of these behaviors, you may need to split them further. For example, if your dog is doing well up until you start opening the door (like you catch your dog whining), then, you may want to split the action of walking to the door in further segments (e.g take a few steps towards the door, return, sit on couch, then, walk to the door and stand in front of it, return, sit on the couch, then, walk to the door and touch the knob for a split second, return, sit on the couch, then walk to the door and open the door a bit for a split second, return, sit on the couch. Do this until the door can be successfully opened without the dog worrying about it.

 3: Exercises by the Door

Monitor your dog for signs of distress

These exercises are more difficult, and therefore, require dogs to be very well proficient at the previous tier level. Dogs should therefore have reached a point where they are fine with being left alone for up to half a minute as the owner stands behind the closed door.

Because these absences are longer and more distractions are added (car engine starting), it helps to provide some high-value long-lasting goodies for the dog to consume such as a strategically stuffed Kong with layers (e.g a layer of cookies stuck at the bottom, kibble mixed with peanut butter, a cookie stuck midway, canned food, another cookie at the top). For longer absences, on top of a Kong, an automatic treat-dispenser set to release treats at frequent intervals can turn helpful.

When providing goodies to consume for these absences, it's important to provide them as well while you are at home to prevent them from turning into a pre-departure cue signaling to your dog you are about to leave.

At this point, it may also be important to use some form of remote monitoring so to assess how the dog is doing and keep tabs on progress and/or setbacks. Body language should be carefully assessed. Anytime a setback is noticed, it means that one must work more on a lower level until the dog is perfectly comfortable with that level.

For example, if the dog becomes anxious upon being left alone for 8 minutes, more time should be spent practicing at lower times. Increments should be done in seconds rather then chunks of minutes always mixing in briefer times to make the exercises as variable as possible. Build the time gradually up to 30 minutes if possible.

Arrivals should always be no big deal. Ignore your dog as you walk in and just go straight to the couch.

Example of exercises:

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, spend a bit of time in the car, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, move the car a bit ahead and then back into parking space, then unlock the door, return, sit on the couch, watch TV.

Put on shoes, grab briefcase, grab keys, walk towards the door, touch the door knob, open the door, take a step out, close the door, lock the door, start car engine, drive the car around the block and then back into parking space, then unlock the door return, sit on the couch watch TV and so forth. Gradually increase more time spent away, mixing in shorter absences.

A Word About Treatment For Separation in Anxiety in Dogs

It's important to consider that slow and steady wins the race in behavior modification. It will take time, commitment and determination to attain results with the dog being calm enough to cope with gradually longer departures. The goal is to get a dog to be calm and reward that. Setbacks are always possible during behavior modification no matter how well planned the program. To reduce the chances of setbacks, it is best to perform separation anxiety exercises with the help of a professional for in-person evaluations and coaching. 

Some of the more severe cases may require prescription medications (prescribed by a vet) to help the dog relax enough and open the lines for learning to take place. Calming aids may help too for milder cases. These may include:

-Using a recorder you can program to play every thirty minutes a recording of your voice.

-Calming supplements such as those containing L-theanine (ask a vet for recommendations)

-DAP diffusers such as Adaptil/Comfort Zone

-Adaptil collars

-Dog calming CDs (like Through a Dog's Ear) or calming music for dog on YouTube 

-Puppy toy with heart beat (Snuggle Pups Behavioral Aid)

-Thundershirt, Anxiety Wrap, Storm Defender

I hope this helps, let me know if you have any questions or concerns!

Best,

Adrienne 

*Disclaimer: certain types of training/behavior modification come with risks. If your puppy or dog shows signs of potential aggression (lunging, barking, growling, snapping, biting) or severe anxiety, for safety, please consult with a dog behavior professional (DACVB, CAAB or dog trainer specializing in anxiety/aggression) who uses force-free behavior modification techniques for direct in-person guidance. Articles, videos and general info found in the forums or course (or any online source) are not meant to replace in-person training/instruction. 

[JMFS]

I'm in agreement with Adrienne on the age - she's a good size for 12 weeks, and I'm not seeing that tell-tale puppy round belly.  I'm really curious now!  I think she might be a Texas Longhorn with those colors, lol.  So pretty!  In the first picture she looks anxious, but I Love seeing her eating with another dog - I wish mine could do that (we had a fight just last week over a toy - we're all struggling in some way!).

I didn't see it recommended, but we have good success with Rescue Remedy.  It kind of takes the edge off so Esther can relax and it definitely dampens her excitement / anxiety peeing (she's a hot mess, but we're working on it).  I also have "Quiet Moments" which is not a pheromone spray, but it Is supposed to emulate the mother dog's pheromones.  Lastly, I have Zumist Lavender spray - it's actual real true lavender mixed with water and a carrier oil.

If you go the sound route, one thing I do is have a waterfall or waves or some other static noise playing on a Bluetooth speaker, then on my computer I'll play any kind of calming music.  Mine seem to prefer piano, cello, and oboe, but there's also "Liquid Mind" which is like meditation music (I use it to help me sleep).  So much is being discovered about sound nowadays that there are YouTube channels aplenty (even those tailored to dogs or cats) to choose from.  30 minutes ago I sprayed Abbi's bed with a pheromone spray and turned on the music because it's raining (our regular afternoon thunderstorm lately).  She put herself into a seizure two days ago from being stressed out (husband came home, it was raining, and the big girls were dancing around excited about him getting home) - that's a first for her, and I didn't even know that could happen.  She got back from the vet's about an hour ago so we're pulling all the tricks out of the hat, which means your post came along at a good time because I'm remembering things we haven't used in a while.

If your wife is her comfort zone (what is y'alls' puppy's name - I don't think I've seen it, yet) then perhaps have her (wife, not dog, lol) wear a nightshirt (preferably one she's willing to sacrifice or one (or several for less hair to wash off) y'all buy for just this purpose) for a few nights to get her scent good and infused (sounds gross, but that's dogs for you - the grosser, the better).  Then try placing that in the crate at night and let her have it only at times she's supposed to sleep or needs comfort.

I was told by my doctor that they use CBD on their dog.  About a 3 mm drop for their 40-lb dog is all it takes (I crochet so I compared my hooks to the size he drew and 3 mm was it).  They put it on the underside of her ear where the skin is bare so she can't lick it off.  Just make sure there's Only CBD in it - menthol is toxic to dogs, as is THC (figured I better cover that because some states allow medical and recreational marijuana).  I tried mine on Esther before I realized it had a small amount of menthol in it so I need to buy a different type.

As to the other post with the daycare time, I would also seek a different environment.  If she's hiding or cowering, that's (imo) significant language for, "I don't want to be here."  We have two boarders (Gertie does great at our original, but Esther needs a little extra help) and they're both magnificent at management and putting personalities together for the dogs' comfort.  Esther's boarder also does Board and Train so I know she's in good hands (she boarded with them for 5 weeks, they thought they'd only need 3 - to give you an idea of what I'm working with, lol).

I do a DNA test on all my dogs.  Mainly because it's fun to know what they are, and how wrong our guesses were.  😄  Gertie is mostly black with white on her chest, paws, and nose, but she's 50% Golden Retriever!  It shows in her personality, but not her looks.  It's also helpful in gaining insight into some of their habits (e.g., Dachshunds like to burrow because they're bred to hunt badgers).  With her ears, I'm thinking there's terrier in there of some sort.  The hind legs make me think Boxer for some reason - I don't see that in her face at all - though the coloring is more spaniel.  In the picture of her lying down, she looks like a large Jack Russel Terrier to me, lol.  If she loves to fetch, then something terrier would be my best guess.

[ANNE SWANSON]

Hi Everyone, Before I move on to read all of these I wanted to point out that in the message that I posted the pictures of the dogs, I said I was posting the pictures of the mom and dad because I was asked their breed.  This is NOT the puppy!!!

[ANNE SWANSON]

Hi Everyone, 

So again to clarify the pictures posted were of River's mom and dad.  Not River.  River is def 12 weeks old.

We have had the puppy a month and she doesn't hate the crate.  She gets all her meals in there and even goes in there when you ask her to ' go to her room ' .  But she does hate being locked in there when no one is in the room next to it, and even sometimes when there IS someone there.  

We have had the diffuser and a heartbeat puppy for weeks now and do throw a stinky human shirt in there with her.  We have also played the dog music from you tube.  When I say we have tried it all, we really have.  But still look forward to suggestions.

She isn't doing too bad with one of our old cats.  Sometimes she just gets a bit overexcited and wants to play with him.  When that happens we just separate them and put the dog behind a baby gate somewhere and give her no attention.  If there is something else I should be doing please let me know.  

To further explain, we have two crates.  One is much smaller that we have used in the past to catch the outdoor feral cats.  The other is for a grown dog.  Last night we waited for her to fall asleep and then put her in the crate and closed the door.  My wife slept on the couch a foot or two away.   We did make it through the night.  That's were they have both been sleeping for a month.  

Not sure the next steps.  We don't have very much room at all in our bedroom for a playpen etc.  Might be able to squeeze the small crate in but as she gets bigger it won't work.  

[ANNE SWANSON]

Also when talking about CBD for dogs or cats can someone specify a brand/strength or how to use it?  We have the attached for our cats but I don't think it's CBD and I don't really know what it's doing?

[JMFS]

I found it on Amazon and it has:  Omega 3. Omega 6. Vitamins B, E.  It says "Hemp Oil," but it's not listed in the ingredient list.  It also shows "FDA Approved," on the box and then there's a blurb on another panel of the same box that reads, "These statements have not been evaluated by the Food and Drug Administration."  That's a little concerning - is it or isn't it?  So I did some more digging and found this Q&A via Google, "So, is hemp oil the same as CBD? Nope, not really. While both oils come from the same plant, they're extracted from different parts. Hemp oil comes from the seeds, and CBD might come from stems, leaves, and flowers."

It may very well be a beneficial product, but I raise my eyebrow when there's conflicting, or vague information.

Also, because all these things can interact with other medications, it's best to check with a veterinarian first.  I give it to Esther and Gertie because they're on no other medications.  Abbi was given sedatives (like serious ones we'll need to be Very careful on dosing) today so she won't be getting any more CBD because it could present issues.

Good to know those are the parents - I was right along with Adrienne, scratching my head, lol.  Given that information, I'm still saying terrier at the least.  Definitely Texas Longhorn, haha.  Esther must be half bunny rabbit with the way she bounces around the yard.  She'll have Husky in her, judging by dad - don't think that one is a secret.  Mom is a bit tougher to ponder, aside from the terrier.

Alright, so you've got a good puzzle for Adrienne!  The thing I keep thinking is to play crate reinforcing games.  Toss treats in, close the door, open the door right away, slowly increase the time, decrease time if she gets anxious. 

If there's not a lot of space in the room, I wonder if a pressure baby gate would fit between the bed and the wall so it's not a crate, but she's corralled.  Also, the top would be open so she has some head room and it would be easy to increase her space over time until maybe one day it's not needed at all.  Failing that there are freestanding gates that might work.

Oh!  Are these plastic or wire crates, or maybe one of each?  Is it comfy in there?  Esther has a crate mat and I cover that with a fitted mini crib sheet (her crate is a 36" size wire crate that works well with the mini crib sizes).  Before putting that in there she was Constantly pacing and that plastic tray on our hard floors was not making for great sleep.

 

[Adrienne Farricelli]

Hi Everyone, 

So again to clarify the pictures posted were of River's mom and dad.  Not River.  River is def 12 weeks old.

Ah OK! So the parents are a husky and a mixed breed of unknown ancestry. I am dying now to see pictures of River to see how she has turned out! I am enamored with genetics and indeed vent this passion by hybridizing plants in my spare time!

We have had the puppy a month and she doesn't hate the crate.  She gets all her meals in there and even goes in there when you ask her to ' go to her room ' .  But she does hate being locked in there when no one is in the room next to it, and even sometimes when there IS someone there.  

We have had the diffuser and a heartbeat puppy for weeks now and do throw a stinky human shirt in there with her.  We have also played the dog music from you tube.  When I say we have tried it all, we really have.  But still look forward to suggestions.

To further explain, we have two crates.  One is much smaller that we have used in the past to catch the outdoor feral cats.  The other is for a grown dog.  Last night we waited for her to fall asleep and then put her in the crate and closed the door.  My wife slept on the couch a foot or two away.   We did make it through the night.  That's were they have both been sleeping for a month.  

We don't have very much room at all in our bedroom for a playpen etc.  Might be able to squeeze the small crate in but as she gets bigger it won't work.  

OK, this paints a better picture of the situation! So can you keep her in the crate right next to your wife in the bedroom like she is doing with her sleeping by the couch only that she's next to side of your wife's bed? From what it seems, you have tried crating her before, but that was in the living room and kitchen. Most young pups will object to that and may cry themselves to exhaustion. This stress can wreck havoc on them and cause more problems along the road. 

It can make a whole lot of difference having her move to your bedroom. All that crying is mostly because she's a young pup and their survival instinct is to not want to be left alone. Things tend to get better as the pup matures if we work on fostering more independence, and we can always move the crate farther and farther away gradually, as well as working with the exercises posted above. 

Since we have solved the age puzzle, knowing that she is so young, you will also find these exercises helpful:

https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/exercises-to-prevent-separation-anxiety-in-puppies/

 She isn't doing too bad with one of our old cats.  Sometimes she just gets a bit overexcited and wants to play with him.  When that happens we just separate them and put the dog behind a baby gate somewhere and give her no attention.  If there is something else I should be doing please let me know.  

I will be posting some tips for the cats shortly in your other post about the cats.