Adrienne Farricelli

Hi Harry, welcome to the forums. I can understand how frustrating this can feel ,especially when you have invested in dog treats hoping they would help, only to discover that their incentive value is not enough. It almost feels like “It’s as if my dog knows what I want but is choosing not to listen.” However, this type of dog behavior is rarely driven by a desire to be defiant. The truth is far more factual and less emotionally driven. In a nutshell, your dog is simply responding to whatever is most salient and reinforcing in that particular, given moment. In this case, the odor has become the highest-priority stimulus competing for the dog’s attention and behavior. Because every scent has the potential to reveal fascinating information, asking your dog to abandon a scent trail isn’t much different than asking someone to put down an exciting mystery novel just before the final chapter. In this case it comes natural to think, if my dog clearly hears us calling her and we have rewarded her with treats, why does she keep on sniffing? Is this a case of selective hearing? The answer often lies in the strength of the recall cue under strong distractions. A recall cue is not truly under stimulus control until the dog reliably responds across a variety of environments and levels of distraction. Stimulus control means that a specific cue (e.g., “Come”) consistently elicits the desired behavior because the dog has learned that responding to that cue is highly reinforcing. In the context of a recall, stimulus control exists only when the dog reliably comes after a single cue across a variety of environments, including those with competing distractions such as enticing scents. Dogs who learn to come when called promptly when in the house but struggle when they’re in the yard and interested in smells simply have not generalized that response to environments filled with highly rewarding scents, wildlife, or other competing stimuli. In these cases, yes, sniffing may be more reinforcing than the food reward being offered by the pet parent. Basically, the environmental reinforcement outweighs the reinforcement history for the recall. Let's continue to think of sniffing from our dog's perspective. Every time your dog sniff, it’s like opening another surprise package. While some sniffs may contain nothing remarkable, every now and then there’s this irresistible jackpot, under the form of a rabbit trail, the scent of another dog, or yesterday’s dropped hamburger. This unpredictable payoff is what makes sniffing incredibly difficult to interrupt. However, being aware of this variable reinforcement is powerful as it can help you formulate a strategic plan that will keep your dog on his toes when you call him too! So How to Get Your Dog’s Attention When His Nose Is Glued to the Ground? Every time you call your dog, you need to make sure that he rushes to you enthusiastically and the that reward given beats anything else. If coming when called consistently means the fun ends in exchange for a cookie or a treat he gets often every day, your recall cue can quickly lose its appeal. Here are some strategies to prevent that from happening. -Don’t Make the Fun End Imagine your spouse says: “Come here,” and every single time that means “It’s time to toss the trash” or “time to clean the garage.” With time, you’d become remarkably difficult to find! Now imagine that sometimes “Come here” means here’s your favorite dessert, let’s watch a favorite movie, or here’s a surprise gift, and occasionally, yes, we need to clean the garage. In this case, you’d respond much more enthusiastically because the cue has a long history of predicting good things. Now, if treats are given every time the dog is called when she’s sniffing, and the dog’s recall remains poor over time, this reminds us that reinforcement is something relative, not absolute. In other words, in that context, the scent has greater value in than the treat. -Increase Reliability Around Scent Distractions Calling a dog when he’s actively sniffing and getting a quick response isn’t something that is trained overnight. Here’s the thing: a reliable recall isn’t built by repeatedly testing the dog in challenging situations, but rather through systematic proofing. I like to think of scent distractions in terms of weights at the gym. You don’t start with the heaviest barbell during the first weeks! So here are some general tips to work on incrementally. If your dog fails repeatedly, don’t assume he’s being stubborn. It usually means the distraction level exceeds his current skill level. You may therefore need to go back to practicing under milder distractions and using higher value treats. -Begin indoors with virtually no distractions. -Practice in the backyard before your dog discovers an interesting scent. -Move to a quiet park. -Practice near mildly interesting odors. -Gradually work closer to stronger scent trails. -Finally, practice around the kinds of distractions your dog is most likely to encounter in real life. Use Premack to Your Advantage One of the most powerful reinforcers may already be right under your nose (pun intended). On a personal note, I love to use this principle, here's more about it: Premack Principle! According to the Premack Principle, a highly desirable behavior can reinforce a less desirable one. This is also known as Grandma’s Law, in terms of “eat your broccoli and then you can have ice cream. For a dog who loves to sniff, the opportunity to return to sniffing after coming when called can be an even better reward than food. Here’s an example on how to use it to your advantage: Call your dog. He comes immediately. Reward with a treat. Cheerfully say, “Go sniff!” as you point to the yard Let him return to investigating the scent. In this case, the message goes from “all the fun ends when my pet parent calls me” to “Coming when called doesn’t make the good stuff disappear, rather, it makes it happen.” How magical is that? After several reps of this, once the dog’s need for sniffing has satiated (let the dog sniff to his heart’s content until all the novelty wears off and he appears bored) it may be time to call your dog to come indoors. In this case, you will have to think “what does my dog love to do indoors?” If your dog loves to sniff, it may be worthy preparing a Snuffle mat loaded with several high-value treats and having that ready by the entrance. Or if your dog is hungry and he loves his food, present his food bowl. Think of Your Dog’s Recall as a Lifetime Investment Reliable recalls aren’t built in a weekend. Rather they’re developed through consistent practice and maintained throughout a dog’s lifetime. Even highly trained dogs with excellent recalls benefit from occasional “tune-ups” and surprise rewards to keep the behavior strong. And while a well-trained dog may come when called with impressive reliability, no recall is ever 100 percent guaranteed .No dog training is really guaranteed for that matter. I hope this helps, Please let me know if you have another questions! Keep us posted. Best, Adrienne

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! Before beginning brain games, I would encourage you to think of your dog's nose as the primary way he gathers information about the world. Rather than adapting scent games to fit a visually or hearing-impaired dog, try to view scent-based activities as his natural learning modality. For dogs with partial vision and hearing loss, consistency becomes especially important. Try to conduct training sessions in familiar environments with minimal clutter and few unexpected obstacles. Predictability helps reduce cognitive load and allows the dog to focus on the task itself. Since you've noticed he responds better to lower-frequency sounds, you may find that deeper vocal tones, gentle tapping on the floor to create vibrations, or consistent auditory cues are more effective than higher-pitched sounds. For brain games, I would start with simple scent searches. Scatter a few treats in a small area and allow him to use his nose to locate them. As he gains confidence, you can progress to hiding food in boxes, snuffle mats, rolled towels, or scent trails leading to a reward. Success should come easily at first to build confidence. You may also find tactile cues helpful. Many sensory-impaired dogs learn to respond to gentle touch signals as long as you associate them with something good happening (like touch, followed by a treat) so as to not trigger startling. Most importantly, allow him to work at his own pace. Dogs with sensory impairments often spend more time gathering information from their environment. What may appear to be slow progress is frequently the dog processing information through a different sensory pathway. As humans, we often focus on deficits, but many sensory-impaired dogs become remarkably skilled problem-solvers because they learn to rely so heavily on their remaining senses. A dog whose nose is 'his eyes on the world' is often an excellent candidate for scent-based enrichment and cognitive games. One additional tip: avoid startling him. Approach from a consistent direction when possible, announce your presence through gentle floor vibrations or a familiar low voice, and pair interactions with positive outcomes. Confidence and predictability are often just as important as the games themselves.

Hi there, welcome to the forums Management in these cases comes first. Tommy should have protected zones where Gus cannot physically reach him, gated areas or rooms separated by baby gates. Blind dogs especially benefit from predictable, protected pathways through the home so they are not surprised by sudden physical contact. Second, teach Gus a default behavior around Tommy. Many households succeed with a “go to mat” or “settle” cue. When Gus notices Tommy moving or hears him nearby, you cue Gus to go to his mat and reinforce calm behavior there. Over time, Tommy’s presence becomes a signal for relaxation rather than play attempts. Third, proactively drain Gus’s social and physical energy before he interacts with Tommy. Structured walks, scent games, food puzzles, and short training sessions lower baseline arousal. A dog that has already spent mental and physical energy is far less likely to bounce toward the older dog. Fourth, interrupt play attempts early and calmly. The moment Gus begins orienting toward Tommy in a playful but intrusive way, stiffening, bouncing, pawing—redirect him before Tommy has to escalate. Quiet redirection paired with reinforcement for disengagement teaches Gus that leaving Tommy alone is the successful strategy. It is also worth noting that some bully-type dogs, tend to show strong “play persistence.” They keep trying because historically persistence has worked with other dogs. That trait is not malicious; it simply means the human has to set clearer boundaries about when play is and is not available. Your daughter’s dog being careful around Tommy is a useful observation. Some dogs naturally show what behaviorists call self handicapping, where the larger dog reduces intensity with a smaller or older partner. Gus may eventually learn some version of that, but relying on spontaneous restraint is risky given Tommy’s health. Finally, try to remove yelling from the interaction loop if possible. When you raise your voice, Gus likely experiences the sequence as: approach Tommy → exciting chaos → owner upset. Calm redirection paired with reinforcement tends to produce clearer learning and less emotional fallout. In many homes the system becomes fairly peaceful once the younger dog learns a simple rule: the old dog is not a play partner. He is simply part of the environment. Over time, younger dogs often shift from solicitation to quiet coexistence, which is exactly the retirement plan a 14-year-old dog deserves. I hope this helps, happy training! Best, Adrienne

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! A nine-month-old, 50-lb adolescent dog and a ten-week-old, 6-lb puppy are operating on very different physical and neurological settings. The older dog is in the canine equivalent of the teenage phase, that is high arousal, strong play drive, and still learning impulse control, whereas, the younger puppy is developmentally fragile and lacks the coordination to protect herself. The concern you’re raising is therefore legitimate; injuries between puppies in this kind of size mismatch are entirely possible, but usually occur accidentally rather than through aggression. The first principle is management, not training. The older puppy should not have free access to the smaller one during the first weeks. Use barriers such as baby gates, exercise pens, or crates so the dogs can see and smell each other without physical contact. This prevents the older dog from rehearsing overwhelming play while the small puppy is still settling in. Controlled introductions should be brief and structured. Keep the larger dog on leash initially and allow the puppies to interact for only a few seconds at a time before calling the older dog away and reinforcing calm behavior. The goal is to teach that disengaging from the puppy earns reinforcement. Many young dogs can play appropriately, but they need frequent interruptions because their arousal escalates quickly. Teach the older puppy a few specific impulse-control skills before the new puppy arrives. A reliable “go to mat,” “leave it,” and a recall away from play are extremely useful here. When the small puppy moves around the room, reinforce the older dog for choosing calm behaviors such as lying down, sitting, or observing quietly. This builds a habit of settling rather than charging toward movement. Supervise all play sessions closely. Healthy puppy play includes loose bodies, frequent pauses, role reversals, and self-handicapping from the larger dog (for example lying down or reducing intensity). If the larger dog begins to chase, body-slam, pin, or ignore the smaller puppy’s attempts to disengage, calmly separate them and allow both dogs to reset. Do not rely on the older small dog or the cats to regulate the adolescent dog’s behavior. While some adult animals will correct a youngster, it is not fair or safe to expect them to manage interactions with a vulnerable puppy. Human supervision should be the primary control system. Finally, remember that fatigue and excitement both increase the risk of rough play. Short training sessions, sniffing activities, food puzzles, and walks for the older puppy will lower baseline arousal and make gentle interactions more likely. With careful management and reinforcement of calm behavior, most adolescent dogs learn surprisingly quickly that the tiny newcomer is not a wrestling partner but a fragile member of the social group. The important piece is preventing the older dog from practicing overly rough play during those early weeks while the small puppy is still physically delicate. I hope this helps! Happy training!

Hi there, welcome to the forums! Six-month-old Miniature Schnauzer puppies are social followers. Add excitement and poor spatial awareness and you get a mobile trip hazard. Of course, this can be particularly concerning, especially when around an elderly lady. What's going on in this puppy's mind? Let's take a look at some possible mechanics before digging deeper into solutions. -Mobile Reinforcement Movement is one of the strongest triggers for puppies. A standing person is boring; a moving person is a stimulus. -Attention-Seeking Puppies enjoy any form of attention. In the case of a puppy following around and becoming a tripping hazard, it's inevitable looking at them, telling them to move or even bumping in them. These can be all perceived as forms of attention. -Lack of Training As you correctly mentioned, lack of previous training may play a role. The puppy simply does not yet know where to go when the person stands up. The solution may involve several approaches. -Teach a default stationing behavior Train the puppy to go to a mat or bed whenever the person stands up. Start by heavily reinforcing the puppy for relaxing on a designated mat. Then add a predictable cue: person stands → puppy runs to mat → reward appears. Over time the stand-up itself becomes the cue. This converts the trigger from “follow legs” to “go park yourself.” -Build spatial awareness around legs Practice slow walking drills where the puppy is rewarded for maintaining a small buffer zone around the person. Some trainers use a treat magnet at knee height to guide the dog into position beside the leg rather than between the feet. Think of it as teaching “walk with” rather than “walk under.” Another option is keeping a treat at eye level so the pup can focus on making eye contact in what's known as attention heeling. Bother forms of heeling can be found here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/heeling-attention-heeling/ Another option is tossing kibble or treats at a distance so that the puppy steers clear from her. A sit prior to tossing a treat can add some structure to the game. Baby gates can create safe walking lanes for the elderly owner while training is in progress. -Increase structured enrichment Six-month-old mini schnauzers often shadow people because they are under-stimulated. Short training games, sniffing work, scatter feeding, and food puzzles reduce the “follow the human entertainment channel” effect. I hope this helps, happy training!

Hello, Thank you for describing the situation in such detail. What you’re seeing is concerning, especially given your puppy’s young age,so it’s good that you’re seeking guidance now. A 6.5-month-old puppy showing escalating anxiety, generalized resource guarding, stiffness, hard staring, lunging, and attempted bites suggests a combination of fear-based aggression and impaired emotional regulation. The fact that the behavior intensifies consistently in the evening and overnight is also clinically relevant. A few important points and recommendations: Safety and management come first Until this is properly evaluated, avoid situations where people are approaching him around food, resting places, or valued items. Do not attempt to “test” or challenge him. Management tools (leash indoors, gates, predictable routines, controlled access to resources) are essential to prevent rehearsal of aggressive behavior. Do not rely on firmness or confrontation While he may back off when you are firm, this is not a sign that the behavior is resolved. More often, it indicates suppression driven by fear. Over time, this approach increases the risk of bites that occur without warning. Avoid verbal or physical intimidation. Resource guarding at this age is suspicious Guarding that is broad (food, bed, objects, space) and paired with anxiety and unprovoked lunging is outside typical puppy development warrants a veterinary behavioral evaluation, not just training advice. The time-of-day pattern matters Behavior that worsens between 8 p.m. and 7 a.m. can reflect fatigue, reduced coping ability, sleep disruption, or underlying anxiety disorders. In some cases, medical contributors (pain, gastrointestinal discomfort, neurologic issues) must also be ruled out. Immediate steps you can take now -Feed in a quiet, separate area with zero interaction during meals -Remove access to high-value items unless supervised -Do not disturb him when resting -Keep interactions predictable, low-arousal, and brief -Ensure adequate daytime enrichment and structured rest periods 6. Seek professional help I strongly recommend scheduling an appointment with a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (DACVB) or, at minimum, your primary veterinarian with referral to one. Early intervention at this stage can significantly improve long-term outcomes, but delaying treatment can allow patterns to consolidate. Best regards, Adrienne

Hi Russ, Thank you for the thoughtful message and welcome to the forums! I’m glad to hear you’re finding the material useful and have already beginning to apply it. I appreciate you taking the time to clarify this point before promoting the system more broadly. You’re absolutely right to distinguish between attention-seeking behaviors and behaviors that pose a safety risk. The principle of not “entertaining” unwanted behavior is primarily aimed at avoiding reinforcement, but it does not mean allowing unsafe behavior to continue unchecked. For behaviors such as chasing the cat or jumping on a person, the priority is always safety and management. In those moments, calmly interrupting the behavior is appropriate. This can be done by using environmental management (leashes, barriers, tethers), blocking access, or briefly removing the dog from the situation, ideally in a neutral, low-emotion manner. The goal is to stop the behavior without adding arousal, frustration, or reinforcement. Once the behavior is interrupted, redirecting the dog to a clearly taught, incompatible alternative behavior (for example, orienting to the handler, going to a mat, or engaging in a different activity) is consistent with the system. Over time, proactive management and reinforcement of appropriate behaviors reduces the likelihood that unsafe behaviors will occur in the first place. So in short: unsafe behaviors should be calmly and efficiently interrupted for safety, while minimizing emotional energy and avoiding reinforcement. The longer-term focus remains on prevention, skill-building, and reinforcement of desirable alternatives. You’re thinking about this exactly the right way, and I’m glad you reached out for clarification. Please don’t hesitate to ask if additional questions come up as you continue working through the material. Happy training! Best regards, Adrienne

Hi there and welcome to the forums. My apologies if my reply comes late. What you are describing is very interesting and thank you for taking the time to provide such a thoughtful description of Leia. this is actually a very helpful history, and I can understand why this has been both puzzling and frustrating. I don't find Leia's behavior unusual in presentation. Most importantly: yes, this is very fixable, though it typically requires a shift in how the behavior is understood rather than simply adding more training cues. From a behavioral standpoint, this does not look like in my opinion as a dog "needing more stimulation” in the traditional sense. Instead, I believe this pattern is most consistent with learned compulsive arousal tied to social context and predictability. The rubber ball has likely become Leia’s primary coping strategy when arousal increases, particularly when both attachment figures are present or when a transition occurs (someone entering the home). The fact that she sleeps when one person leaves, tells us this is not excess energy, but rather socially driven over-arousal as this behavior is context-specific ( in occurs when both people are present,/visitors arriving). In cases like this, the ball is primarily not a toy, but a self-soothing object that loses its power once the stimulating stimuli/events are gone. The good news is that this does type of behavior can be fixed by implementing a variety of behavior change strategies such as: Reducing rehearsal of the behavior (management is essential at first). Lowering baseline arousal/impulse control games. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ Teaching alternative behaviors around arrivals that are incompatible with fetch (like laying on a mat) https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ Her background as a former stray, combined with her genetic makeup, makes this presentation very understandable. Dogs who have experienced instability often cling tightly to predictable rituals especially in emotionally charged moments. If you work through the impulse control and arousal-regulation exercises in the course, you should see meaningful improvement. This is a situation where less excitement and more predictability will help her far more than additional outlets. Please feel free to share follow-up details. I hope this helps, Happy training! Adrienne

Hello and welcome to the forums, You’re absolutely right that mental exercise can be just as fatiguing (and often more regulating) than physical exercise, especially for young, high-energy dogs. One of the main goals of this program is to expand an owner’s “toolbox” well beyond sit, down, and stay, and to show how cognitive work, problem-solving, impulse control, and choice-based activities can be incorporated into daily life. Regarding training philosophies, the approach here is grounded in learning theory and evidence-based, force-free methods. The emphasis is on teaching skills in a way that promotes emotional regulation, resilience, and clarity for the dog, rather than relying on pressure when distractions increase. In practice, many dog parents find that once behaviors are well taught and reinforced in varied contexts, food becomes just one of many possible reinforcers rather than a limitation. That said, the course is not about debating training labels. The goal is giving you practical, applicable strategies for mental stimulation, enrichment, and skill development that can be used with any breed or mix. You’ll find a wide range of activities designed to challenge dogs cognitively while also supporting calmness and self-control, not just energy expenditure. I’m glad you’re here, and I think you’ll find the material aligns well with your goal of raising a mentally satisfied, adaptable dog. Please don’t hesitate to reach out in the forums as you start applying the exercises to your puppy’s daily routine. Happy training! Adrienne

Hi, welcome to the forums, As a dog trainer/behavior consultant, I cannot provide medical or nutritional advice. Ideally, this should be answered by a veterinarian or a board-certified veterinary nutritionist. It sounds like you are in the weaning process and this requires specific instructions based on a variety of factors such as age, weight, overall health etc. I hope that by now, you have found the answer and that your pups are thriving.

Hello, and welcome to the forums. Dogs must have an odd relationship with the phone. If we try to think about phones from a dog’s perspective, it makes us wonder what they must think about us when they see us hold that rectangular device to our ear and start babbling away like it’s the most normal thing in the world. It’s sort of like living in a sitcom! If we think about it, phones make lots of different noises: rings, pings, bleeps-you name it. Dogs understand that we are very responsive to every noise the phone makes. It must feel like living with a human who’s obsessed with squeaky toys! On the other hand, with a dog’s fine sense of hearing, we must consider how rings and notification pings must feel to them. Perhaps they feel very unsettling, like nails on a chalkboard. Then, there’s the mystery of voices coming from the other end. Are people trapped in there and need help getting out? Is that Uncle Martin stuck in another world? Perhaps that explains why owners rush to the phone when it rings; they’re on a mission trying to rescue them! And let’s not forget how humans go bonkers when looking for a lost phone. The relief felt upon finding it must feel like digging out a buried treasure. But the real kicker? Dogs witness us engaging in animated conversations, laughs, giggles, cries, maybe even shouting. They pick up all our vibes and may want to bark or howl to join these emotionally charged conversations. So yeah, dogs have many good reasons to act suspicious about our phones. They are noisy, we spend way too much time on them, and they are not chew toys. No wonder why countless dogs are always trying to swipe that phone out of our hands! Why Do Dogs Act up During Phone Calls? The reasons why dogs may act up during phone calls may vary from one dog and another. Paying attention to the dog’s body language and the context that evokes the dog’s behaviors may help provide insights into the underlying causes. Of course, until the day dogs can talk, we may never really know with 100 percent accuracy what’s going on in their minds, but these are just a few possibilities. They Are Seeking a Connection At the top spot of possible causes for dogs barking during phone calls is the need for interaction/attention. Many dogs may experience negative feelings when they see us get on the phone or plop onto the couch and watch T.V. In particular, they may feel ignored. “Every time my human starts talking on that device, they forget I exist! Maybe if I do something to grab their attention, they’ll remember I’m here.” The connection-seeking behaviors dogs adopt may vary from one dog to another. Here are several potential connection-seeking behaviors: Pacing back and forth Whining Nudging Barking Pawing Licking Chewing Nipping Biting As mentioned, phone calls can be emotionally charged events. Your dog can sense your feelings, and the voices on the other side could trigger feelings of excitement, reactivity or arousal. Some dogs may recognize voices of people they know, and this may excite them as if they’re about to show up to the door-but then, they do not. Other dogs may get aroused or startled by the sudden movements we make to get to the phone. Some dogs may find the sound of the phone ringing or the vocal interactions as cues for play or social engagement, leading to heightened energy levels, and all that energy must go somewhere, triggering the onset of impulsive behaviors such as barking. They’re Bothered by Noises Some dogs struggle with noises emitted by phones, whether it’s the beeping or ringing or any sound notifications. If you are using a speakerphone, consider that the pitch of the person coming through the speakers may be uncomfortable to the dog. They’re Feeling Confused Since dogs don’t understand technology, when they hear us talking on the phone, they may not know that there is someone on the other side who is listening. Even if the dog hears the other person, it’s still confusing because that person is not present. All this talking can cause dogs to feel confused. They may think we are talking to them, but we aren’t really connecting with them. It’s normal for dogs to feel unsettled, and this can make it a stressful situation that prompts them to act out. They’re Feeling Frustrated Some dogs struggle during phone calls because they perceive them as a disruption to their routines. It may be possible that dogs also grow frustrated when they sense the phone as a barrier preventing them from receiving the attention and interaction they crave. Such dogs may vent their frustration by engaging in nuisance behaviors that may include barking. “Attention-seeking behaviors—also known as demand behaviors—start for a variety of reasons, including anxiety and uncertainty. But regardless of why they start, these unwanted behaviors are always maintained by learning.” explains Stephanie Borns-Weil board-certified veterinary behaviorist. There is one major problem with dogs who bark, whine or bite as a way to seek attention: their attention is often inadvertently reinforced. This reinforcement teaches the dog that their behavior works, and this causes the behavior to put roots and repeat. Here’s the thing: with attention-seeking dogs, every little sign of attention reinforces the behavior (making it more likely to repeat and strengthen over time). Just looking at your dog, talking to your dog or touching your dog qualifies as attention. Even attention of the negative type, such as scolding your dog or pushing him away, qualifies as attention nonetheless! It’s therefore super easy to fall into the trap of giving some form of attention to these dogs, especially when their needle-sharp teeth are used to prompt a reaction from us! Beware of Extinction Bursts An extinction burst is a phenomenon that is important to be aware of. When dogs try to get attention from us, they will often try with some mild behaviors. Let’s say they try by barking. Barking often gains some type of reaction from us, considering it’s an ear-piercing sound. We may look at our dog or tell them to shush. Soon, the dog is satisfied with the response and may start barking more and more during phone calls. At some point, the owner may decide to try to ignore the barking in hopes of it decreasing. Bark after bark, the dog may notice that the barking is no longer working, so he’ll often try barking louder. This intensification of the behavior in response to no longer getting attention is known as an “extinction burst.” On top of barking louder, the dog may also try something else in hopes of getting the owner’s attention again. Barking may work at getting the owner’s attention back, considering that it’s very difficult to ignore a dog’s barking. Soon, the barking behavior establishes and becomes the dog’s default behavior to engage in in the context of phone calls. Make Safety Top Priority! If your dog’s barking morphs into biting, play it safe and consult with a dog behavior professional. Of course, in the case of a dog biting, for safety, it’s best to have the dog wear a muzzle and have a behavior professional present to help during the assessment. What to Do to Stop a Dog From Barking During Phone Calls? Stopping a dog from barking during phone calls often requires a multi-modal approach. The behavior intervention plan may often involve a combination of management strategies and behavior modification. A dog behavior professional can guide you through the process and suggest the most appropriate, custom-tailored approach. Preventing Practicing of the Behavior Undesirable behaviors in dogs are practiced because they lead to some form of reinforcement (a desirable consequence). In the case of a dog barking when the owner is on the phone, the consequence that keeps the behavior alive is often attention, whether it’s positive or negative. To prevent the dog from being put into the position of repeatedly practicing the problem behavior and garnering attention, it’s important to take several preventive steps. Following are several possible preventive steps: Keeping the dog in a separate room during phone calls Going outside to make phone calls Placing the dog in a confined space during calls (crate, exercise pen) Keeping the dog behind a baby gate Behavior Modification While the above measures prevent the dog from practicing the problem behavior, it’s important to take steps to change the dog’s emotional response to phone calls. The type of behavior modification involved may vary based on the underlying emotions at play and the ultimate function of the behavior. Identify the Exact Triggers When a dog barks during a phone call, it can be helpful to identify the exact triggers that cause the dog to act out. If we are able to tease out an exact trigger, we know exactly what we may need to be worked on, and in some cases, the solution may be as simple as no longer exposing the dog to such a trigger if feasible. Does the phone ring evoke the barking? This can be teased out by testing whether the dog still acts out if the phone ring is muted. Does your walking back and forth during calls evoke the barking? This can be teased out by testing whether the dog doesn’t act out when talking while sitting. Does hearing other people on the other line evoke the barking? This can be teased out by no longer putting people on speaker phones, using headphones or pretending to talk to somebody and watching the dog’s response. Does your dog react only when you talk on the phone? This can be teased out by having another person talk on the phone and seeing if the dog acts out. Does your dog react when you suddenly leap to answer the phone? This can be teased out by getting up very calmly and nonchalantly to answer the phone. While the above are just some examples of triggers that may cause some dogs to act out, it is not uncommon for the behavior to have started in response to an initial trigger, but that trigger has generalized and caused other events to piggyback. For example, oftentimes, as in the case of attention-driven dogs, the dog may have started acting out in the middle of the phone call as the dog started feeling anxious about not being given attention, but then through repeated exposures, the behavior started happening earlier and earlier into the phone call, to the point where the mere phone ring could cue a barking episode. Turning Triggers into Positive Happenings A plan involving desensitization and counterconditioning may be a good place to start to change any negative emotions into more positive ones. Desensitization involves exposing the dog to their triggers presented at a lower level of intensity so as to reduce exaggerated responses that cause anxiety. In the context of a dog barking during phone calls, this may involve putting the ringer on a lower setting, not using the speaker phone, letting the phone ring at a distance (like from another room), and initially engaging in shorter phone calls. The phone calls should be as neutral as possible (not emotionally charged) to lower the chances of evoking arousal. Counterconditioning involves pairing the triggering stimulus or event with something positive. In the context of a dog barking during phone calls, this may involve feeding the dog treats when the phone rings and then while talking on the phone. Treats (or even the dog’s kibble if the dog really enjoys it) can be kept in the pocket or treat bag during the day so that all phone calls are turned into positive behavior-change opportunities. The Best of Both Worlds Desensitization and counterconditioning are often used in combination as they work in synergy, potentiating their effects. In a nutshell, the ultimate goal is presenting the trigger/event at lower levels of intensity while creating positive associations with it. Initially, it may help to create systematic set-ups so that we have better control over the situation. This could mean arranging with a friend to have him/her call you so that the phone can ring several times in a row (with the ringer on a lower setting) so that you can toss your treats immediately after every ring. It should look like this: Ring/toss treat, ring/toss treat, ring/toss treat repeated several times so as to start creating a positive association with the ring. You may find it helpful to toss the treat initially simultaneously to the first rings just so that your dog gets a feel of what’s happening before moving to tossing the treat right after the ring. The goal is to obtain what’s known as a positive conditioned emotional response where your dog starts actually looking forward to the ring because it means great things happen. Advancing to the Next Step (Raising Criteria) Raising criteria simply means moving to the next step once the dog shows signs of improving, leading to a dramatic reduction in reverting to the barking behavior. Ideally, criteria should be raised when there are no more barking episodes taking place. Once the dog does fine with hearing the ring and shows even signs of looking forward to hearing it, you can start with having the phone ring and you picking it up and tossing a treat. Ring, pick up phone/toss treat, ring, pick up phone/toss treat. Once your dog does well with that, very brief conversations can be started. It’s best to keep these as short and neutral as possible, and treats should be tossed frequently to prevent any barking. What If There Are Setbacks? If there are still setbacks where the dog reverts to wanting to bark, it’s important to carefully evaluate what may have gone wrong. Was the ringer tone too loud? If so, the volume will need to be adjusted. Is the dog less enthusiastic about the treats? If so, it may be time to invest in some higher-value treats. Did the dog show signs of wanting to bark before the treat was tossed? If so, faster treat tosses may be necessary so as to preempt the behavior, but it would also be important to carefully evaluate what may have gone wrong. If, for example, the dog did well hearing the ring but then struggled when the phone was picked up and brought to your ear, you may want to take a step back and go back to giving treats for hearing the phone ring and then finding an intermediate step to picking up the phone and bringing it to your ear, such as just touching the phone and then lifting it up a bit and then more. Training an Alternate Behavior It is common to get upset with dogs (and give them negative attention) when they engage in problematic behaviors, but what if we train them to engage in an alternate behavior to replace the unwanted one? Then we can at least give them some attention for engaging in a desirable behavior! A good cue to train in these cases is the “go to your mat” cue since being on the phone involves a certain level of duration. I would suggest having a plan in place by keeping some long-lasting treat on a tall, impossible-to-reach surface near your phone and having a mat nearby. This way, as soon as the phone rings, you can cue your dog to readily go to his mat and then reward him by giving him a long-lasting treat to keep him occupied. If you want a quicker solution, you can use an indoor pet fence and place the long-lasting treat already on the mat, and close the pet fence so that as soon as the phone rings, you can readily open the pet fence and cue your dog to go to his mat. The dog should readily go inside if he has noticed the treat on the mat. This may work if your dog isn’t prone to getting too frustrated by seeing the food in an enclosed area he cannot reach. Consult With a Professional When dogs bark or show concerning aggressive behavior, seeking the guidance of a professional for safety and the correct implementation of behavior modification is paramount. Working on behavior problems comes with risks, and every dog will need an individualized plan. Here are some professionals to reach out to: Board-certified Veterinary Behaviorists (DACVB) Here is where to find one near you: Find a Diplomate. Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) Certified Dog Trainers/Behavior Consultants Please ensure that the professionals used are committed to humane training and behavior modification methods. Frequently Asked Questions The process of changing dog behavior is always variable, and several adjustments/changes may need to take place. Every dog is an individual, so a cookie-cutter approach won’t cut it when it comes to behavior change processes. What If I Don’t Have Time to Cue My Dog to Go to His Mat? If you are expected to get several phone calls and you don’t have the time (or desire) to work on the behavior, it is best to use management and keep your dog away from the phone and confined with something to do (chew toys, Kong Wobbler, Licki-mat). Are There Other Ways to Keep the Dog Busy During Calls? If you know when you’re expecting a phone call, you can set up a treat dispensing toy that you can activate with the press of a button using a remote control. The phone ring will become a cue for the yummy treats to be dispensed. I personally like to use the Teach & Treat remote dispenser for keeping dogs out of trouble because it will dispense kibble or premium treats from up to 30 yards away. How Important Is Timing? It is always best that you work quickly to preempt the problem behavior; therefore, you want to intervene *before* your dog has the opportunity to bark. If you are late, it may be difficult to distract your dog once he has latched on; plus, you are allowing your dog to practice the behavior. If you know a phone call is coming, it’s best to have a plan in place and have a stuffed Kong or a Licki-mat ready so that you can provide it to your dog in his confinement area. What If the Phone Rings Unexpectedly? If the phone call rings unexpectedly, be ready to grab a handful of kibble or a few treats from your pocket to toss at a distance as you leave the room and close the door. Alternatively, you can even keep a flirt pole next to your phone on a desk to escort your dog into his exercise pen where you can then close him and provide him with something to happily chew on. I have used flirt poles with success in some critical cases, such as puppies not wanting to come back inside the home before being taught to come when called. Can I Just Toss Treats/Kibble When I Am on the Phone? Technically, you can, but if you decide to toss treats rather than cue your dog to go to his mat to chew on a long-lasting edible, be prepared to do so repeatedly throughout the call to keep your dog’s mind focused on chasing treats. You can’t get distracted here, as you will need to have your dog yo-yoing back and forth. If your dog loves this game, you can insert some obedience training into the mix by asking your dog to sit before you toss the treat/kibble. This way, you are also teaching some desirable behaviors on top of draining some energy, providing some mental stimulation and preempting the barking. Since you are on the phone, you can teach your dog to attend to hand gestures rather than verbal cues. The hand gesture for “sit” can be an upward hand movement with your palm open. Once your dog gets the hang of this, he may even default to sitting on his own before the treat is tossed. On top of sitting, you can also teach your dog other cues, such as to lie down, spin or hand target before you toss the treat. Watch for signs of your dog tiring. Dogs may revert to nipping when they are tired and don’t know how to communicate it. If you are expecting the phone call to get long, you can always cue your dog to go to his mat and enjoy a food puzzle. What If the Treats in My Pocket Are Finishing? It’s always best to have a backup plan and keep some extra treats/kibble that can be reached quickly on a nearby shelf or table so that you can toss your last few treats at a distance and go grab a new supply of treats. If you have one last treat and it is soft, you can always split that into several pieces and use those to buy some time as you go grab some extra “ammo.” What if I Am Worried About Calories or Don’t Want to Spoil My Dog’s Appetite? No worries, there are several options. If your dog loves his kibble, use it! Food bowls are only for our convenience. Just think how many opportunities for reinforcement you can hold by using your dog’s breakfast. If your dog responds better to treats, you can ask your vet for some low-calorie treats. What If My Dog Isn’t Interested in Eating? Some dogs may be anxious about the phone’s ring or the voices they hear. When dogs are in an anxious state, they may struggle to focus on anything else. In these cases, it may be important to consult with a vet and discuss whether some calming aids may be helpful. Will the Behavior Ever Stop? While no guarantees can ever be made on the outcome of training or behavior modification, the good news is that eventually, most dogs lose interest in you talking on the phone once they have found more interesting things to do. The chances of this happening are much higher if you provide your dog with enough exercise and mental stimulation during the day and ensure all your dog’s needs are met. The less dogs get to practice the problem behavior, the more they’ll gravitate towards the new, potentially more rewarding activities. Dogs with a long rehearsal history may require more time and effort. Does Ignoring the Dog Work? Oftentimes, when dogs engage in attention-seeking behaviors, the common advice is to ignore the dog in hopes of extinguishing the behavior; however, there are problems with this approach. While it may be easier to ignore a dog who is barking when we are on the phone, ignoring the dog for biting is more difficult because it hurts! A hand or leg movement may be interpreted as a form of interaction nonetheless. Furthermore, ignoring a dog’s behavior that has worked in the past in getting attention may trigger an extinction burst that may involve stronger biting. Unless we wear tall Wellington boots, it will be difficult to endure. Giving any type of attention during an extinction burst has a deleterious effect because it means we have reinforced the dog’s persistence, making the behavior more established and resistant to extinction. Should I Punish the Dog for Biting Me During Phone Calls? No, punishing the dog for biting can potentially make matters worse. The dog may perceive any intervention as a form of attention, or if corrected through a muzzle grab, alpha roll, or scruff shake, the dog may react defensively or become hand-shy. Punishment also doesn’t help in addressing the behavior. In many cases dogs acting up during phone calls are seeking a connection. Even something seemingly minor, such as saying to the dog “no” doesn’t address the root cause and provides no information about what you want your dog to do. There are many side effects associated with the use of punishment, which is why it is not recommended. The Importance of Addressing All of a Dog’s Needs While it’s important to manage the dog’s environment and take steps to encourage the dog to engage in an alternate behavior, it’s also paramount to address the dog’s underlying needs and emotions and take a “holistic approach.” Following are some extra tips. Provide Exercise/Mental Stimulation While in the past, most dogs were selectively bred to carry out certain tasks (herding, guarding, hunting, sniffing, etc.), nowadays, they are often left with nothing to do and depend on us to keep them entertained. It’s therefore important to meet a dog’s needs for exercise and mental stimulation. Make sure your dog receives daily exercises and enrichment so his body and brain are kept busy. If you must use the phone at set times during the day, it may help to ensure you have met your dog’s needs before getting on the phone. Walk your dog, ensure he has eliminated and play with your dog before putting him in his confined area with something to do (food puzzle, bully stick). Establish a Routine Dogs feel reassured when they are provided with a routine. Establish set times during the day for walks, training, play, exercise, feeding and elimination. Introduce verbal cues so that your dog knows what to expect and can anticipate safe and non-threatening interactions. *Make sure your dog has eliminated before getting on a long phone call; some dog may start barking as a way of communicating their need to be taken out! You may find it helpful to teach your dog the go potty on cue command. Lower Arousal Levels Many dogs struggle with strong emotions such as arousal and frustration. Impulse control training can be introduced so as to help a dog develop better coping skills in a positive way.. Lower the Anxiety Many dogs who display behavior problems are fearful and anxious dogs. These dogs need a routine and may benefit from anxiety-reducing products. There are many calming products on the market nowadays, from DAP sprays and diffusers to calming supplements and foods. Ask your vet for specific recommendations. If your dog is anxious on a daily basis, your vet may even prescribe medications to take the edge off. Ensure Your Dog Gets to Relax/Sleep Dogs who don’t receive enough sleep during the day tend to be more easily aroused and “on edge.” It’s important to teach dogs how good it feels to be calm and how to relax. It’s important to praise them for engaging in these desirable behaviors. You may need to take steps to create an environment that is conducive to relaxation and sleep. I hope this helps! Happy training! Best, Adrienne

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Hi Christine, thanks for the great question! It sounds like you are Puck are on the right path, but are struggling a bit with the "take" cue. This is reasonable. Teaching a reliable “take it” command ( or better, cue) is a wonderfully useful skill, especially for dogs who already have good impulse control. Many dog parents find that dogs who excel at not grabbing things (because they’ve practiced self-control for years) can actually be hesitant when we suddenly want them to put something in their mouth. This is especially true for older dogs who have long, established learning histories. Let’s break down how to teach a dog the “take it” command, how to structure sessions, how to read the dog' motivation, and how to avoid the most common problems. Understanding What “Take It” Really Teaches Many people think of “take it” as simply a permission cue, sort of like a "You may have this now,” but for a dog, it’s often much more than that. To your dog, “take it” entails a variety of steps. In order to "take it" dogs therefore will first need to: Approach an object Open the mouth Lift or hold it If a dog has spent years being heavily reinforced not to grab something unless explicitly told, he may naturally default to caution. For a thoughtful, biddable breed like a Border Collie, this caution can be even more pronounced. If your dog is therefore hesitant to "take" consider that he isn’t being stubborn, he’s just being careful, which is actually a sign that his impulse-control foundation is strong. Use the Right Starting Object The object you choose for teaching “take it” matters more than most people realize. If you teach with food, many dogs take the food automatically, but some dogs (especially those with advanced “leave it” skills) may be unsure whether food or certain objects offered in a training context are truly “allowed.” Try the following progression: Start with something your dog naturally wants to put in his mouth A favorite toy A soft tug rope A plush toy A ball (if he enjoys retrieve-type play) Avoid unfamiliar or low-value objects early on These can reduce clarity and motivation. If using food, begin with high-value treats that your dog normally takes readily, such as soft meat-based treats. Hold them in a clear presentation: extended hand, treat between thumb and forefinger, or treat on an open palm. Build the Behavior Before Adding the Cue A common training issue is “naming the cue too soon.” For “take it,” you want your dog performing the action confidently before you attach the spoken command. Following are several incremental steps. Present the object Hold the toy or treat in a neutral, easy-to-see position. Reward any movement toward the object At first, mark (with a click or “yes”) even small motions like leaning forward or sniffing. Mark for mouth contact Once he’s consistently approaching, wait for him to touch the object with his mouth. Instantly mark and reward. Mark for beginning to grasp When he begins placing teeth on the object, mark and give a treat. You may treat with a different reward than the object itself (e.g., dog takes the toy → you give chicken). Reinforce the full grasp When he takes hold confidently, reinforce with praise, food, or a short game. Only when steps 1 to 5 happen smoothly and predictably should you add the cue “take it.” Adding the Cue Properly Once your dog is reliably grasping the object: Present the object. Pause one second. Say “Take it.” Allow him to make the behavior happen. Mark and reward. The one-second pause avoids teaching him that “take it” means “watch me move the object toward you.” Instead, he learns his action triggers the reward. After 20 to 40 successful repetitions across a few sessions, he’ll begin responding to “take it” before moving toward the object. What If He Still Doesn’t Grab the Item? Some dogs freeze slightly when asked to do something opposite to what impulse-control exercises have taught. Here are ways to build confidence: Use Movement Many dogs are motor-pattern driven. A slight wiggle of the toy can spark engagement. Avoid fast or overwhelming wiggling, just enough to encourage interest. Use Play as the Reinforcer For many dogs such as Border Collies, play is a powerful reward. If your dog takes the item even briefly, follow it with: Light tugging Excited verbal praise A brief game You want him to think: “Taking it leads to fun!” Use High-Value Food If you are training with treats, try: Bits of chicken or turkey Cheese Freeze-dried meat Peanut-butter flavored training bites. Make sure the peanut butter doesn't contain the deadly ingredient xylitol. Hold the treat in a way that invites taking without requiring big effort. Lower the Criteria If he won’t grasp, go back to marking for mouth touches only. Build the increments slowly. How Long Should Each Training Session Be? Short, frequent sessions produce the best long-term learning. Ideal session length should be: 1 to 3 minutes for shaping or new behaviors and 3 to 5 minutes for practicing known skills. Dogs—especially young puppies or older ones do much better with multiple ultra-short sessions scattered throughout the day rather than one long one. Signs a Training Session is Too Long or He’s Losing Motivation As you train, it's important that you monitor for signs of fatigue. Following are several warning signs that the training is going for too long and your dog is starting to lose motivation. your dog begins looking away from you He sniffs the ground or disengages He starts yawning or scratching (signs of mild stress) He takes the treat slowly, or stops taking treats He leaves the training area His responses become inconsistent When you see these signs, end the session right away by asking something easy. For example: ask for a “target,” reward, and finish. Ending before he gets tired keeps training fun and increases anticipation for next time. How to Tell If Your Dog Isn’t in the Mood Even enthusiastic dogs have off days. Your goal is to recognize when your dog is in a receptive learning state. Your dog is in the mood for training when: He approaches you with interest His ears are neutral or forward He takes treats quickly His body posture is relaxed but alert He chooses to stay near you His responses to known cues are crisp Signs Your Dog Isn't in the Mood For Training He refuses treats he normally loves He’s pacing, panting, or unsettled He is sleepy or just got up from a nap He is overly distracted by noises or movement He disengages from very easy cues He shows stress signals (lip-licking, turning away, yawning in context, paw lifting) If he’s not in the mood, simply try again later. Training should never feel like pressure to the dog. Always Practice in Easy Environments First When teaching or refining a new behavior at almost nine years old, minimizing environmental distractions is important.Make sure to therefore train in a: A quiet room Without other pets present With the TV off With you seated or standing still In good lighting so your dog sees the object clearly Use toys in colors that your dog can readily see in the background Older dogs sometimes have mild sensory changes (slower vision adaptation, decreased motivation, etc.). Keeping the environment simple helps him succeed. Combine “Leave It” and “Take It” Later (Optional) Once “take it” is solid on its own, you can practice tiny patterns such as: Present object Say “leave it” He waits Say “take it” He grabs the item You praise This ensures that the two cues remain separate and that your dog learns you will clarify what you want each time. Celebrate Slow Progress Older dogs learn wonderfully, but sometimes a bit more gradually. A dog's hesitation to take it, is not resistance; it’s caution born from previous learning and a desire to avoid making a mistake. This is actually a desirable trait in cooperative working dogs. Every small step, whether from sniffing the object to a full grab is progress. Keep sessions fun, upbeat, and short, and you’ll see the behavior build reliably. Final Thoughts You’re doing everything right by noticing your dog's hesitation and wanting to set him up for success. With thoughtful shaping, bite-sized sessions, and attention to his motivation, Puck should learn “take it” with confidence and enthusiasm, likely faster than you expect. Happy training!

Hi there! Welcome to the forums. Maybe you can try some of these techniques mentioned here:

Hello and welcome to the forums! What you are describing seems a case of "zoomies" which takes place when pups are highly energetic as it can happen at night or after meals. What you’re basically seeing in your 7-month-old Australian Shepherd is a fairly common mix of adolescent energy, overstimulation and learned nighttime habits, rather than anything like canine “sundowning," which takes place in elderly dogs. At seven months, Spirit is smack in the middle of canine adolescence — the teenage phase of doghood. Her breed (Australian Shepherd) is brilliant, high-energy, and bred for long days of work managing unpredictable movement (like livestock). When the world quiets down at night, many herding dogs create stimulation, under the form of pacing, barking, demanding to go in and out because their brains and bodies haven’t truly wound down. Even if she’s physically tired, mental fatigue is just as important. Without it, she can appear restless and frantic in the evenings. What likely started as normal evening restlessness may have evolved into a reinforced behavior loop. Spirit barks → you let her out → she explores or relieves herself → barks to come in → gets attention To her, this becomes a rewarding game of “get them to move when I bark: in herding style. The more consistent this pattern, the more persistent it becomes. Many dogs also become more reactive during the evening. Shadows, wildlife movement, or distant sounds are all exaggerated when visibility drops. Herding breeds, with their sharp sensory systems, notice every flicker. What seems like “going crazy” may actually be hyper-alertness to evening stimuli, so what can you do to ameliorate the situation? Think of the 7–9 p.m. window as “decompression time.” So no high-energy play after dinner. Instead, use quiet brain work: stuffed Kongs, lick mats, snuffle boxes, or short obedience sessions that make her think but don’t amp her up. Also, you can try to give her a wind-down walk around dusk, stick to a calm, sniffy, predictable outing. Choose one designated “last outing” for bathroom needs, then commit: no more responding to barks after that, unless you suspect illness or distress. If she barks to go out and it’s not potty-related, ignore the barking and redirect her to a quiet activity indoors. Reinforce calmness. When she settles, reward quietly. Make sure to create a calm environment. T Try a bedtime signal (a phrase like “night-night” paired with a treat in her bed or crate. Use a white-noise machine or soft fan to mask outdoor sounds that might trigger her. Dim the lights and lower household stimulation earlier in the evening — this helps her body clock adjust. You mentioned she gets plenty of exercise, which is great. But for Australian Shepherds, “plenty” often means mental stimulus on top of exercise. Incorporate puzzle toys, scent games, short trick-training sessions, and problem-solving games during the day. A tired mind is as peaceful as a tired body. If despite changes, her nighttime agitation continues or escalates, it’s worth scheduling a veterinary evaluation. Occasionally, discomfort during adolescence can manifest as restlessness. If it truly seems like night-time anxiety, a behavior consult can help tailor a desensitization plan and determine if any temporary calming aids are appropriate. With a consistent evening routine, reduced reinforcement for barking, and plenty of mental engagement earlier in the day, most young dogs grow out of this phase beautifully. And remember: you’re not alone even the brightest Australian Shepherds need a little help learning that nighttime means rest, not round-up. I hope this helps! Happy training!

Thank you for sharing Heidi’s story...she sounds like a wonderful dog with a great temperament and a very strong natural prey drive. Chasing and hunting are internally rewarding behaviors for many dogs. Even if she never “catches” something, the act of chasing provides a dopamine surge that reinforces the behavior. That means it can persist despite your best efforts unless we redirect it effectively. Because prey drive is instinctive, the most reliable way to reduce Heidi’s opportunities is limiting access to wildlife. Options include: using a long-line or leash, so she can explore but not chase. Secure fencing that doesn't allow wildlife or outdoor runs/enclosures, where she can be outside but not in pursuit mode. Dogs with strong prey drive do best if they have safe, appropriate outlets for their instincts. Consider using a flirt pole or long tug toys, these let her practice the chase/grab/shake sequence in a controlled way. offer scent games, hiding food or toys for her to find so she can tap into the hunting instinct and be deeply satisfying. Give her foraging-type activity outdoors. Work daily on recall in low-distraction settings, gradually increasing difficulty. Use very high-value rewards (fresh meat, cheese). The goal isn’t just “come when called” but “interrupt prey focus and turn to you.” Practive leave it and look at me first in staged, low-distraction scenarios. Beyond the impact on wildlife, a high-speed chase risks injury (getting lost, hit by a car, or injured in underbrush). This is where structured management (long lines, fencing) is most protective for Heidi. Unfortunately, curiosity + prey drive make skunks frequent targets. Preventing unsupervised night roaming is the only reliable way to reduce those incidents. Motion sensor lights or fencing can sometimes help deter skunks themselves. You won’t be able to eliminate Heidi’s prey drive, but you can manage her access to critters and give her safe, satisfying outlets that reduce her need to practice hunting behaviors. The most important changes are consistent management outdoors (especially preventing unsupervised free roaming), daily mental/physical enrichment that mimics “the hunt,” and strong recall/leave-it training. Hope this helps! Happy training!

Hello and welcome to the forums! An 8-month-old, recently adopted rescue dog is still very much in the adolescent stage, where housetraining “hiccups” are common. Even if he was reported to be “mostly housebroken,” the transition to a new home, schedule, and environment often means some relearning is necessary. The fact that he initially wouldn’t eliminate outdoors (due to stress/adjustment), and then gained confidence and now reliably pees/poops outside, but has occasional, seemingly random indoor urinations suggests this is not a deep-seated house soiling problem, but rather a mix of adjustment, incomplete bladder control at his age, and possibly lapses in communication between him and his new family. At 8 months, most dogs can “hold it,” but accidents still happen, especially if distracted or excited. It is also possible thar he may not yet fully understand that inside is never appropriate, especially in a brand-new home where the “rules” differ from his past environment. Maybe excitement, changes in routine, or mild anxiety can cause sudden urination indoors as well. Important is also to rule out medical problems, this is less likely given the frequency (once a week), but urinary tract infection, stones, or congenital issues should be ruled out if the pattern worsens. If accidents therefore increase, or if you notice straining, blood in urine, or frequent small urinations, a veterinary exam and urinalysis are essential. For now, I would treat him like a younger puppy which means more freuqntly (after meals, naps, play, first thing in morning, last thing at night) and always rewarding when he eliminates outdoors—praise, treats, play. Timing is critical. If you can’t supervise directly, use a crate, pen, or gated area to prevent “opportunities.” Keep him near you on a leash indoors during higher-risk times so you can catch pre-elimination signals. If you see him start indoors, calmly interrupt and immediately take him outside. Reward if he finishes outside. Avoid punishment—it can cause him to hide urination or become anxious. Note what’s happening before the weekly accident: time since last walk, activity level, visitors, play. You may discover a trigger (e.g., long gap, excitement, or distraction). I hope this helps! Happy training!

Hello and welcome to the forums! I am so sorry to hear about the passing of your 13 year old pit bull. If he’s growling when other pets approach you on the couch or bed, give him his own special resting spot (e.g., mat, bed, or crate) nearby, and reinforce him for being there. Use baby gates, leashes, or strategic positioning so he doesn’t feel forced to guard access to you. Avoid scolding or punishing the growling as it communicates his discomfort and gives you a chance to intervene before escalation. Teach him a reliable “go to your mat/bed” cue. Reward heavily when he chooses his mat instead of blocking others from approaching you. Here is a guide. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ Happy training!

You can do both, implement the training as it helps manage your dog's impulse control and in the background specifically work on the jumping and biting (hopefully its just minor nipping rather than real biting) directed towards people. For these cases, I like to use the "look at that" method:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ but if you notice any worrisome behaviors such as aggression, please work alongside a dog behavior professional like a force-free dog trainer/behavior consultant. I would also suggest not keeping the dogs off leash if this means them rehearsing problematic behaviors such as rushing towards people barking and risking them biting someone. A compromise may be using a long line so that you have some level of control. If he ignores you when there is another dog, it's often a sign that he's too over the threshold. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ and those levels will need to be lowered in order to get a better response.

Hi there, welcome to the forums! To stop your dog from jumping on the couch, you may need to implement some type of training or intervention plan, based on the underlying cause. The following tips are recommended to stop a dog from jumping on the couch based on some underlying factors. Avoid placing booby traps on the couch and using a shock collar to correct your dog for jumping up and avoid using the so-called "scat mats" which deliver a shock when your dog jumps on the couch. These methods can make your dog fearful of the couch as well as other things that may be nearby or events that may have occurred at the same time. Avoid shaking a can filled with coins or spraying your dog with water as this may also cause harm, as some sensitive dogs may become noise-sensitive or may develop a fear of water. Avoid any physical interventions such as pushing your dog off the couch, grabbing him by the collar or delivering a scruff shake, may cause your dog to fear you and your hands and may lead to a dog who may bite defensively. Even scolding or telling the dog no has some disadvantages as it may trigger fear and stress in a dog who may have no clue of what he's being asked for 1. Train Your Dog the "Off" Cue Training your dog on the "off" cue can be helpful as it tells your dog exactly what you want him to do rather than what you don't want him to do. Here's how to train it. Wait for your dog to jump on the couch. If your dog isn't jumping up, then plan your training sessions around that specific time. Say your verbal cue "off" and then toss a treat or kibble on the floor with a downward motion of your hand. Just as your dog jumps off the bed or couch and before he eats the treat/kibble, say "yes" or click your clicker (if your dog is clicker trained). Repeat this exercise several times as the opportunity presents making it a fun game. At some point, start saying "off" but this time without actually tossing the treat. Just pretend you toss it using your downward hand gesture. When your dog jumps down, say "yes" or click the clicker and feed him the treat, but this time drop it from your other hand. Your ultimate goal is to say "off" and stop tossing the treat/kibble. Repeat the above exercise and start morphing the treat-tossing hand movement into just pointing at the floor and then feeding the treat from your other hand dropping it to the floor when your dog jumps off. Now, it's time to raise the criteria and add an extra challenge. A day may arrive when you need your dog to get off the couch, but you don't have treats. Start mixing in praise without giving treats or use other types of rewards such as giving a favorite toy, running together to the yard to play or grabbing your dog's collar and leash and taking your dog for a walk. Most dogs will instinctively rush when they see their collar and leash. Don't stop giving any types of rewards or treats altogether though; as that may lead to the behavior extinguishing. 2. Make the Couch Inaccessible When Not Training Many dogs learn to not jump on the couch when the owners are present but will jump the moment the owner is away. This leads to inconsistent reinforcement (variable reinforcement schedule) which can put a dent in your progress in training your dog not to jump on the couch. To prevent inconsistent reinforcement, it's therefore important to make the couch inaccessible. You can place bulky items on the couch such as boxes full of big books, folded chairs or laundry baskets to make it less inviting. Some dog owners opt to cover the couch with a plastic carpet runner turned upside down so the hard points are facing upward to make the couch less appealing or you can turn the couch against a wall or simply keep your dog in a separated area (in another room, behind a baby gate). One special product that has received rave reviews lately consists of plastic mats with spikes that dogs instinctively avoid wanting to walk over or jump onto. These plastic mats with spikes work without the unwanted side effects of shock as some of the older versions of scat mats offered. Here I have placed several upside-down chairs to prevent a dog from jumping on the couch when not supervised. 3. Provide Your Dog With His Own Sleeping Area You want to provide your dog with his own sleeping area and you want to make it extra appealing. Choose a comfortable one that will make the couch look poorly in comparison. Nowadays, there are many makes and models of doggy beds and you can even offer your special pooch a doggy couch of his own if you'd like! 4. Train Your Dog to Lie on His Mat Aim to train your dog to lie on his mat and provide goodies there so that your dog associates it with great amenities. If you own a clingy Velcro dog, keep his bed/mat nearby you, against the couch. Your dog will enjoy relaxing/ sleeping nearby you and feel part of the family. Here is a guide: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ 5. Move the Couch Away From Windows If your dog uses the couch for gaining a view of the outside, move the couch away from the window. This should also reduce any associated barking targeted towards outside stimuli. 6. Invest in a "Buddy Bunk" The Buddy Bunk can help with dogs who jump on the couch because they want to be closer to their owners or they want a high place to retreat to, away from other nosy pets, or more simply, just feel safer on "higher grounds." WARNING: If your dog shows signs of guarding the couch by barking, growling or snapping, consult with a professional using force-free behavior modification for help. If you need your dog off the couch, don't get angry or push him off. Instead, toss some treats on the ground to encourage him to get off, or try ringing the doorbell.

Hi there, welcome to the forums, I assume in this case, you are struggling with your GSD jumping on you? Dogs typically like to jump up on their owners as a way of saying "hello," especially after not seeing them for some time. Many dog owners unknowingly encourage jumping or try to discourage the jumping. Some methods are downright wrong, while others may even encourage jumping behavior. We know that dogs are opportunistic beings and engage in behaviors that provide rewards. So, if you are scolding your dog for jumping, why is he/she still doing it? Let's take a look at some common mistakes we may knowingly or unknowingly make when trying to stop dogs from jumping. -Don't Scold, Push, and Yell If you have been away from home all day and Rover has been alone, it is normal for him to be super excited once you step in the door. Let's say, however, that you ignore your dog's greeting because you have a million things to do—you need to take a shower, cook a meal, lay down on the couch, and watch your favorite show. While you are walking around, Rover decides to jump on you and bark. "Down!" You scold him as you push him off, but within a few seconds, he does it again. What gives? For many dogs, negative attention is better than no attention at all! When you tell your dog "down," you often make eye contact and may even push them down. Some dog owners even knee their dogs in the chest, please don't do that! In the least bad scenario, it just won't work, in the worst case, it will harm your dog and evoke defensive behaviors. Here's the thing: for a dog that has been isolated all day with little mental stimulation, being looked at, talked to, and touched is often perceived as reinforcing. In the dog training world, punishment is defined as something that suppresses the animal's behavior. Since scolding is not working and instead intensifies the behavior, we are likely not punishing but reinforcing! Of course, this does not apply to all dogs. Reinforcement is in the eye of the beholder, meaning it's up to the individual dog deciding what is perceived as reinforcing. For a shy dog, scolding may suppress the behavior in the long run, but there are better ways to train a dog not to jump. -Don't Allow Jumping in Select Circumstances There are some dog owners who assume that it is acceptable for the dog to jump on neighbors who know the dog, but discourage it on people that the dog does not know well. In a similar fashion, some dog owners discourage jumping when they come home and then reward it when they are distracted by the phone and start petting the dog while it stands up on two feet. Dogs need black and white rules; shades of grey confuse them. A dog cannot be taught to discriminate who can be jumped on from who cannot, and allowing inconsistent rules sets dogs up for failure: it puts the behavior on a variable schedule. A variable schedule takes place when you reward your dog at certain times and not others. A variable schedule is a great way to maintain a behavior and prevent it from extinguishing. It is similar to the addiction of playing the lottery where you feel more like playing if you win random rewards. So be consistent and don't get stuck in this trap! -Don't Move Away It is often an innate behavior to move away when a dog jumps. This action often triggers more jumping because dogs are attracted to movement. The same applies to petting a dog that tries to playfully nip the hand; the quick withdrawal of the hand will attract the dog more than us staying motionless and simply going limp. Suddenly moving away from a jumping dog will therefore often trigger more jumping. If you carefully observe dogs playing, you will notice that the dog that moves away is often more likely to be chased because it is seen as an invitation for action. When teaching recall exercises, it helps to walk backwards to attract the dog to follow! This also explains why kids are often jumped on as well—their fast withdrawal movements attract dogs to action How to Train Your Dog Not to Jump Up on People? Now, let's talk about what you can do to decrease this behavior. We now know that dogs jump up on people to say hello, that they are opportunistic beings, and some may prefer to be scolded than given no attention at all. We also know that hitting, kicking, and pinching is the best way to make your dog fearful of you and is considered abusive. If Rover was alone and bored all day, it is normal for him to enjoy a bit of negative attention (scolding, pushing), and we all know he enjoys positive attention (petting, eye contact, talking to him), so there appears to be little space for improving the situation. If you cannot get mad at your dog and you cannot touch, look at, or talk to your dog, there is not much left to do, so what do you do? Simple: NOTHING! And then make sure to follow some extra tips. Do: Ignore the Behavior Your first step, therefore, is to completely ignore your dog when he is excited and jumping. Come home and act aloof as best as you can. If he jumps on you? No deal. Simply turn your back away and go on with your errands. This process is called negative punishment. Punishment, in scientific terms, has nothing to do with harsh aversion-based corrections. It simply means subtracting something. Punishment simply refers to reducing unwanted behaviors and possibly extinguishing them over time. In this case, we are removing something the dog likes (attention) for the purpose of suppressing the unwanted behavior. This means not looking at the dog, not talking to the dog, and not touching the dog. The only thing you should do is to turn your back to your dog the moment he jumps on you. This way, you are removing yourself and giving your dog the most boring part of yourself. If your dog still jumps on your back as you have turned away, it may be worth it to briefly leave the room until he has calmed down. Do: Be Persistent Remember how Rover decided to jump up after the owner ignored him coming home? This is a behavior you must anticipate. In dog training lingo, it is called an "extinction burst." In other words, if Rover is used to jumping up on you and getting attention (either the positive or negative type), he may feel more compelled to jump because his jumping behavior is not working! For example, imagine you get into your office each day effortlessly by opening the door. One day, the door does not open. What do you do? You will likely push it, force it, and try harder to make it open. The same thing applies to your dog. He is most likely thinking, "Hey owner, what is going on? Usually, I jump on you and you pet me or you get upset at me! I will try harder and jump more just to get you to react!" Stay as firm as you can on the training program and you will see results. The jumping behavior should start fading. It is best if you ignore the jumping dog and give your dog an alternate behavior. Do: Give an Alternate Behavior So, if your dog learns that jumping yields no results, wouldn't it also be great to teach an alternate behavior that yields results? The power of positive reinforcement will be your best friend. It is scientifically proven that behaviors which are rewarded are likely to be repeated over time. Edward Thorndike's "Law of Effect" claims, "responses that produce a satisfying effect in a particular situation become more likely to occur again." So, if jumping is ignored, then why not reward the dog for a default behavior such as sitting and provided attention once the dog successfully sits? This is a win-win for everyone! Watch for Behavior Chains! Ideally, you should catch your dog before he has an opportunity to jump and ask him to sit, this important detail will prevent you from getting into a sticky situation known as a behavior chain, where dogs will jump and then immediately sit and the jumping never extinguishes because dogs think it's part of the exercise! Do: Involve Everybody Your behavior modification program cannot be effective if you do not involve the participation of all people. Have guests turn their backs on your jumping dog. Then, once the dog has calmed down, have them ask for a sit before your dog has the opportunity to jump instead. Once sitting nicely, your guests can then go ahead and pet your dog, or if this is too exciting, you can ask them to toss a treat to your dog and ask for more sits, or ask your dog to hand target and toss a treat. This helps discourage jumping and also rewards the dog for demonstrating good manners and self-control. Everyone needs to participate in this training for it to be successful. It is helpful to organize sessions with other people or join a training center that focuses on teaching good manners. Set up sessions with friends, family, and other dog owners. Dogs do not generalize well, so it helps to have many people implement this training in different scenarios and places. The more you work on this, the more your puppy or dog will learn the rules of good manners. I hope this helps! Happy training!

Hi there, I am sorry to hear about your negative experience. I am sincerely confused because this course is a one-time charge so not sure how you are being continually charged. I will be bringing this to the attention of the support team.

What a lovely update! Thank you for the heartwarming update on Lupo, it’s so wonderful to hear how well he’s doing and how strong the bond between you has become. Maremmas are a deeply independent and intelligent breed, so the relationship you describe is a testament to the mutual trust and respect you’ve built with him. Your recognition that working dogs are not just “tools” but partners is not only refreshing but behaviorally important. Dogs,even those bred for centuries to work independently, thrive when their emotional needs are considered alongside their functional role. You’ve clearly struck a thoughtful balance between honoring Lupo’s instincts and building a meaningful companionship! It’s particularly impressive that he shows such reliable off-leash control and stays close by. His ability to pause at the off-leash spot, monitor your location, and respond reliably to commands (even with a moment of thoughtful decision-making, which is so typical of the breed) reflects excellent communication and trust. Your note about him never attempting to leave the property speaks volumes about how well his needs are being met and I mean this both environmentally and emotionally. As for the shedding — if only we had a behavioral fix for that! If only genetics were so negotiable! Fortunately, a well-maintained grooming routine, the right tools (like undercoat rakes ), and perhaps some good humor can make it more manageable. Thank you again for sharing your success story. It’s a joy to hear about dogs like Lupo thriving in homes where their nature is understood and embraced. Best, Adrienne

Thank you for sharing such a thoughtful and heartfelt post. Your bond with your Yorkiepoo is clear. The issues you're facing are common in older small-breed dogs, and the good news is that with the right approach, many of these challenges can be managed or improved. At 9 years old, several medical and behavioral factors could be contributing to the increase in indoor urination: Medical concerns: First and foremost, I recommend a full veterinary check-up, including urinalysis and possibly bloodwork. Conditions like urinary tract infections, kidney disease, Cushing’s disease, arthritis, or cognitive dysfunction (age-related brain changes) can all affect house training reliability. Cognitive dysfunction can manifest as confusion, changes in routine behavior, increased anxiety, or lapses in previously learned habits. If this is a factor, early intervention with behavioral support and sometimes medications or supplements can help. Decreased communication: You noted that she doesn’t signal clearly when she needs to go out. This can be because of a medical or mental issue and should be investigated. Impact of changes: Transitions can be stressful, especially for dogs prone to anxiety, However, with support, dogs can often adjust well, the key is to go slowly and be proactive: Use familiar bedding, routines, and even pheromone diffusers (like Adaptil) to ease the transition. If she has separation anxiety or generalized anxiety, your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist can help create a tailored management and treatment plan. It will take consistency and management, but older dogs can relearn reliable house training. Here aer some general tips: Management -Use baby gates or an exercise pen to restrict access to areas where she’s had accidents. 0Limit unsupervised access to furniture and her bedding unless you’re certain she’s recently voided. Scheduled potty breaks -Start with a regular potty schedule (e.g., every 3–4 hours during waking hours). -Don’t rely on her to “ask” rather, take her out proactively. -Take her to the same spot and use your familiar cue (“Go potty”). Reinforcement -Immediately reward her with high-value treats the moment she eliminates outdoors. This creates strong motivation and builds the habit again. Indoor accident prevention -Clean all previous accident areas thoroughly with an enzymatic cleaner to eliminate residual odor cues. -If you must leave her alone for longer than she can comfortably hold her bladder, consider options like a grass patch on a balcony or a designated indoor toilet area.. ideally, this is temporary. Making the decision There’s no single right answer about whether she should move with you — it depends on her needs and your capacity. If she’s deeply bonded to the other dog, your mom has more availability for outdoor breaks, and your lifestyle won’t allow for consistent structure, it may be kinder (for now) to let her stay. That said, with planning, patience, and possibly professional guidance, many dogs her age adjust beautifully to new homes. Whatever you choose, the fact that you’re thinking through this so carefully shows that she is loved and in good hands.

So how do I not let her cry it out? Great question! In these cases, we very gradually and systematically exposes them to small increments of alone time. The goal is to avoid pushing the dog over the threshold to the point of exhibiting signs of distress, which will lead to sensitization (making the dog more anxious). Side note: I am glad cameras set up so that you can carefully monitor your pup's progress. Calming Aids: The adjuvant use of calming aids may be helpful to help the dog be less on edge. Pheromone-based diffusers or sprays such as Adaptil can be helpful during changes. I always make sure to have a plug-in diffuser in the room where a new foster dog or a client's dog will spend most of the time. It may also help to play calming CDs for dogs, such as Through a Dog's Ear, to muffle the sounds. Always Consult With Your Vet: Consult with your vet for specific recommendations on calming aids/medications. Many dogs struggle with being crated. There are chances that once crated, as they watch us leave the room they start associating the crate with our absence. This may put a dent in even the most well-intended efforts to create positive associations with the crate. Accidents may happen in the crate also due to the distress. Helping Foster a Sense of Independence: When tackling problematic behaviors in puppies and dogs, it's important to address the problem from the root cause and implement a multi-pronged approach. Research has found that dogs, just like children, display what's known as a secure base effect, which means that they rely on their owners as a secure base for interacting with the environment. It's important to establish in puppies and young dogs a foundation of safety and trust while gradually fostering a sense of independence. Ideally, this is started early on with simple exercises to prevent separation anxiety in puppies. For established cases, puppies and dogs need a more systematic approach, always being careful not to push them over the threshold. Here are some tips: Keep the Mind and Body Busy: Along with creating a foundation of safety and trust, it's important to provide several outlets for a dog's need for exercise, play, socialization, training and mental stimulation. Your pup may also benefit from confidence building exercises and impulse control training incorporated into their daily lives. Make sure to encourage independent play and exploration. I like to encourage treasure hunts around the home and fenced yard and play games of hide-and-seek. Gradually build distance and duration in being away from you. Put the act of exploring on cue and then call your pup (or use a silent whistle) and reward with a treat, followed by letting her explore again. The Right Balance Is Key As with raising children, it's important to find the right balance. Ignoring often a puppy's cries of distress or smothering the puppy with overprotective attention are two extremes that may lead to future problems. The right balance, where we acknowledge our dog's emotions and take steps to address a pup's anxiety and then offer opportunities to foster more independence is key for a stable development. When we meet our dogs' needs, especially when they are feeling fearful or anxious, we help foster in them a secure attachment, which paves the path to developmental independence; whereas, when we fail to meet their needs, this paves the path to an insecure attachment with its associated anxious behavior patterns. While a certain degree of uneasiness may occur during adjustment periods, such as a new home/routine or change in the dog’s sleeping arrangements, persistent or severe anxiety symptoms (panting, whining, panic) should prompt a reassessment of the current strategy. If the situation is not improving, despite taking a systematic approach, we may need to take a step back and consider looking at the broader picture. This will also warrant a reevaluation to establish what future steps can be taken to prevent the puppy from rehearsing distressed behaviors which will put a dent in her learning to be alone. Dealing with dog behavior problems would be extra easy if we could just rely on a simple formula that works for all cases. Instead, each dog, as an individual, requires a customized approach. "Each animal with a behavior problem is a case study of one," points out board-certified veterinary behaviorist Dr. Lore Haug. In a nutshell, every dog will need a customized plan as there are no standard operating procedures we can rely on other than observing how the dog does with a selected approach and carefully gauging progress. If the dog does well, we know that we can raise criteria and move forward; if there is a setback, then we will need to go back a few steps and carefully evaluate what we can do to make things easy for the dog again. If your puppy keeps on barking and whining and appears distressed and not making progress despite your efforts, then it's time to get professional help from a board-certified veterinary behaviorist or a certified applied animal behaviorist.