Adrienne Farricelli

Your concerns are valid. Some trainers advocate teaching "speak" first, because it can allow owners to gain control over barking by creating a structured way for dogs to understand when barking is acceptable and when it isn’t. However, this method doesn’t work universally, and for dogs who are already prone to barking, teaching "speak" may accidentally reinforce it as a go-to behavior, making it more challenging to manage. There are also risks for behavior chain to form if we aren't careful. If we reward the dog shortly after barking, smart dogs may basically learn that if they bark, and then stay quiet for a bit, they'll get a treat. With barking at outdoor noises, my go-to methods are: -Managing the environment to reduce exposure to those triggers. You can use sound machines, keeping certain windows closed, or adjusting where she spends her time during peak noise hours. When barking is less frequent, it becomes easier to work on modifying her reaction to those sounds. -Gradually desensitizing to the sounds. Look up the "hear that" method. This method is based on desensitization and counterconditioning exercises—where you gradually expose your dog to low levels of the sounds that typically trigger her barking. To work well, you need to be extra quick in tossing the treats before your dog even has a chance to bark. Here is the link: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/fear-noises/ With time, she should react less and look in your direction more. This is often sign of a positive conditioned emotional response:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/conditioned-emotional-response-cer/ You can even use your dog's kibble if your dog likes it, rather than giving it away for "free" during mealtime. Tossing the kibble at a distance from you gives also a little nice workout.

Hi there, welcome to the forums! Rehearsing this kind of behavior – where your Corgi feels the need to "tell" another dog who’s in charge – can quickly lead to a cycle of escalating tension, and each rehearsal only reinforces this tendency. Over time, it increases his arousal and assertiveness in these situations, making it more likely that he’ll continue reacting this way or even increase the intensity of his behavior. Here's the thing: Each time your Corgi gets to “practice" reacting to other dogs with this assertive behavior, he’s reinforcing specific neural pathways associated with high-arousal responses. Essentially, he’s learning that this intense reaction is how he should respond in these situations. With each experience, he might become quicker to react or react at a lower threshold, even with dogs he’s familiar with. This can put him at risk of becoming increasingly defensive and possibly intolerant of other dogs over time. Finally, not only does he risk getting hurt during these altercations, but there’s also a risk that he might cause injury to other dogs, leading to potential safety and liability issues. With dogs being placed in his "perceived territory" it's important to start with slow, controlled introductions in neutral spaces. Here is a general guide on introducing dogs: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/introduce-dog-new-dog/ These cases require consistent management and positive experiences, so that your corgi gets to feel more comfortable around other dogs without the need to assert himself. For support in these steps and for safety, I recommend working directly with a professional who understands behavior modification can guide you through building a plan tailored to him.

Hi there, Sorry for the delay, things have been hectic lately! Any time a new dog is added to a social group, there are high risks for squabbles or even serious fights. Very gradual introductions are needed over the course of several days and dogs should be kept separated when around resources such as food, toys etc. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/introduce-dog-new-dog/ The behavior sounds like a case of post-feeding aggression. This can be a form of resource guarding, even though it’s not happening directly around the food. The excitement around meals may linger, causing heightened arousal and, ultimately, aggression. After meals, your Aussie may still be in an elevated state and directing this residual tension toward the Blue Heeler, especially since they don’t have a well-established relationship yet. It's important to feed them separately in their own area as the poor heeler needs to eat in peace and without fear following eating. You can try using baby gates or separate rooms, and only reintroduce them once they've finished eating but in a different area once they had a chance to calm down. You can also find it helpful to add a calming activity after meals to help your Aussie recover from the post-feeding arousal. A short walk or some quiet time in a separate space can allow her to reset before re-engaging with the Blue Heeler. The long-term goal is to desensitize your Aussie to the presence of the Blue Heeler in post-meal situations. Gradually increase the amount of time they’re near each other without conflict, rewarding calm behavior. It can also help to implement strategies for general arousal control, such as teaching relaxation exercises (e.g., mat training) or practicing calm behavior in various scenarios to help your Aussie learn self-regulation. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ Since these episodes happen after heightened excitement like meals or treats, your Aussie may be struggling to regulate her emotions in these moments. By providing structure and positive associations with relaxation, you should be able to reduce the likelihood of these attacks. Keep up the great work with your observations, and I hope your Blue Heeler finds his home soon!

Your home sounds like an amazing place! And you really need to pat yourself on the back for being able to have Sebastian all this time stick nearby, even when you were heading outside! That's truly remarkable considering a Husky's reputation for escaping. It seems like now you’ve got a classic case of canine wanderlust, fueled by the newfound companionship and a maybe a hint of cabin fever. It sure would be interesting knowing where he's going, to make him suddenly so drawn to wandering. Does your GPS tracker have an app that allows you to see his location in real time? I wonder if there is some neighbor who may be feeding him or giving him attention. But there are so many other things that may be rewarding such as chasing wildlife or just mere sniffing. Revisiting the recall may be helpful, but if he's left outside unattended, it will still be irresistible to escape, it's like Disney World to them out there and just plain walking/running is so reinforcing for this breed. This is a really tough situation, and we really want to keep the dog safe. You also don't want your Aussie mix to learn a bad habit and then you're stuck with two dogs leaving the home. When walking it may help to invest in a long line so as to allow Sebastian some freedom while maintaining control during walks. This can give him the sensation of exploring without the risk of him bolting. When taking him outside to potty, it may also help to hook him up to a trolley runner under your direct supervision so that he can still move around, explore and play. Building him a very large and secure kennel for when you must leave the home can help prevent him from being cooped up inside the house all day. More mental stimulation, nose work games, and training can also help to some extent and so can establishing a routine he looks forward to, but I doubt this may satiate his need for exploring if he's left outside to his own devices unattended and free.

Hi there! Congrats on your new addition! So it sounds like we can try a multifaceted approach here: 1) Prevent rehearsals So we want the pawing behavior to extinguish, and one way to do this is to make it become less and less common so that it is eventually dropped from the dog's behavioral repertoire. Practice makes perfect, so a little bit of management goes a long way. So if we can predict when the pawing is likely going to happen that gives us some level of control over it so that we can preempt it. So if pawing happens when in the bathroom, let's make a habit of closing the bathroom door. If pawing happens when we're having a meal, let's have our pup enjoy a stuffed Kong or a treat in her exercise pen/crate. Also, let's avoid feeding any food at the table which is a common cause for dogs pawing when we're eating a meal. 2) Be mindful of extinction bursts When we ignore a behavior that has been given some type of attention in the past, the dog may feel the need to escalate. This escalation is known as an extinction burst, https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/what-are-extinction-bursts-and-how-do-they-impact-your-training/ which can be difficult to endure, especially when the behavior encompasses biting or scratching which hurts! So we have two options here, finding ways to make the pawing les hurtful/damaging or adding a twist to ignoring. We can make pawing less hurtful by: Trimming the dog's nails Having the dog wear nail caps Wearing extra layers of clothing Wearing something that we don't mind getting damaged when around the pup If you are caught unprepared and your puppy manages to start pawing, you can provide a consequence for it by getting up and leaving the room. It sounds like you are doing this already, so keep doing this for those times the pawing still happens. 3. Train another behavior. In the background, it may help to train another behavior that is more acceptable and that earns rewards and our attention, like a sit. We can train the dog to sit prior to being pet, sit prior to being fed, sit prior to having the leash on. She may eventually start defaulting to a sit and it may replace the pawing at some point. 4. Preempt when getting ready to sit Pawing often takes place when we are sitting as it's easier for the puppy to reach us and many puppies struggle with when we sit because it often becomes a cue of us becoming inactive and watching TV or reading a book, or using our laptop. During this time, it may help to provide pups with food puzzles and activities that encourage independent interaction or play (a stuffed Kong, Kong Wobbler filled with a portion of the dog's daily kibble) 5. Make it hard to paw With clingy, pups who like to paw, I often like to place my laptop on my lap so that it becomes hard for them to paw. It makes it easy to ignore them and creates a sort of barrier. A big book may help too. I like to keep these handy on the couch so that I can reach out for them as needed. Of course, we can do this after ensuring that all the pup's needs have been met (exercise, mental stimulation) and are sure the puppy is not trying to communicate something important (such as needing to go potty outside). I hope this helps, this is likely just a phase that will pass once your pup gets older and less needy. The adolescent stage is around the corner, and she may start acting a little more independent. Here are some exercises to help make dogs a little less clingy: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/following-owners-around-house/ https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/exercises-to-prevent-separation-anxiety-in-puppies/ Happy training! Best, Adrienne

Sorry I missed your update to this post. Getting him out and exercised is important considering that these dogs were built for running. Lack of exercise can lead to the problems you are describing such as biting, whining and chewing up the cage. I hope you have some friends or relatives who can help out. If not, is it possible to hire a dog walker or have some neighbor with experience with dogs walk him? Have you tried the kibble toss game mentioned earlier? It can be done by sitting and it can help drain some energy while putting your dog's kibble to good use. It can also preempt biting. I would keep some kibble always available in a treat bag or pocket and read to toss across the room as soon as we notice the dog approaching so that we can prevent any biting. I would aim to then start asking for a sit prior to tossing the kibble. Here are more exercises to work on biting: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/replacement-behaviors-to-stop-puppy-biting/ Bite inhibition games (some of these may require some physical activity, so please try only the most suitable, such as hand targeting) https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/ Training impulse control is also important: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ Dogs need some time to acclimatize to the cage, it is best to create positive associations with it, and be cautious in not keeping them in there for too long, especially if they haven't been provided with enough exercise and mental stimulation. Giving a frozen stuffed Kong to chew can help keep the dog's mind off chewing the crate for a little while, but the crate chewing may resume once done chewing the Kong if we fail to address a dog's exercise and mental stimulation needs. Here is a guide about crate introduction with videos: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/love-the-crate/ However, if your dog finds the crate to be aversive or he has too much energy, he may try to escape and chew it. You may find it better to use a exercise pen which allows more space and the ability for the dog to still play/move around freely. If he is afraid of the harness and head collars it could be he's nervous about going on walks if he is not walked often enough or he wasn't given a chance to habituate to wearing them. A step-by-step approach may be needed. Here is a video demo on conditioning to a head collar:

Hi Ray, Thanks for your suggestion. There are several training videos I have embedded in the forums, but search results may not readily show them. Please let me know what questions you have and what cues you are working on and I'll be happy to post them for you.

Hi Carolyn, welcome to the forums! I am glad to hear your dog has made some progress when entering the pen, this is a good start. Now, we need to apply the same in other settings, which requires us to be very consistent and careful in what consequences we set for when the dog jumps. Back in the day, people thought dog training was all about getting dogs to please us humans. Turns out, dogs are more like us than we realized—they're wondering, "What's in it for me?" Just like we expect a paycheck for our hard work, dogs aren't just motivated by a mere pat on the head or a "good boy." They want real rewards, like treats, toys, or playtime/attention. So, we must think of dog training as a job with a fair salary—so let's make sure we're paying our "furry employees" well! What you are describing when your dog sat and you gave her a treat, and then started jumping again sounds like classical example of a potential behavior chain. Your smart pup has figured out that sitting gets a treat, and then she immediately thought, "Great! Now, let's try to add some jumps to the routine and see what happens!" What needs to be done in these cases is to break the chain. There are several ways to do this, one of my favorite is playing the "kibble toss game." This is putting your dog's kibble to good work instead of sitting in a bowl and being wolfed down in seconds. Kibble is easy to carry in your treat bag or pockets, and by playing this game you give your dog a little workout. The game goes like this: every time you notice your dog is approaching you with an intent to jump, toss a kibble at a distance. Once your dog eats the kibble, she'll likely come back to you for more. As soon as she is close enough, but not close enough to jump on you, toss another kibble at a distance. You want her yo-yo-ing back and forth between catching the kibble and coming back to you for more). At some point, you can start asking for a sit when she approaches you. Keep repeating this exercise several times. With time, she should understand that approaching you without jumping is worth it. If she happens to jump, make sure to turn your back to her immediately and even leave the room if she persists in jumping. This consequence should help make it clear in her mind that sitting leads to treats, and jumping makes you stop interacting with her and makes you (and the kibble) go away. In the background, make sure to provide exercise and fun mental stimulation (brain games!) Also, don't forget to encourage some independent play from you by giving her food puzzles and organizing treasure hunts. If the biting and jumping happens on walks, you can try to preempt it by playing the "find it game" and scattering several treats to the ground in a rainfall fashion. This helps keep the dog focused on something and can drain some energy as the dog goes on a hunt for the treats. It also helps bring down a dog's arousal levels. On walks, you may need to invest in treats that are high-value enough to compete and win over the reinforcement gained by engaging in the undesirable behavior. You will likely need to practice this game first outside of the jumping and biting triggering context so that your dog knows what to expect and so as to give the game the opportunity to gain a strong reinforcement history before being offered around more and more arousal-inducing situations. When working on preempting behaviors and shifting attention, it's best to intervene before the behavior happens or, at the very least, at the earliest signs. This requires becoming a pro in reading a dog's pre-biting and pre-jumping cues. One common denominator often witnessed in dogs engaging in this behavior is the dog getting a certain " gleam in his/her eyes." Intervening at the early signs allows room for intervention. Once a dog is actively jumping, biting and tugging, she is often past the point of redirection. I hope this helps, keep us posted on how things go!

We can do timeouts in a crate, but only if the timeout is a positive experience meaning that it's just a way to give the dogs some time to chill. For example, if the pups are getting too hyper and aroused, we can place each of them in their own crate with something to chew on (like a stuffed Kong, bully stick) so that they calm down and become less over stimulated. This way we can give the dogs time to chill down, focus on chewing something and all without sacrificing all the positive associations we have worked so hard on creating with the crate. Something else to consider is that puppies need a lot of sleep. Sometimes when they get aroused, they are cranky and in desperate need for a nap, so placing them in their crates in a quiet area with something to chew on can help them relax enough to eventually nap. You may need to schedule some nap times, because as young pups they may just want to play all day long.

Hi there, welcome to the forums! Toby is such a cutie! This is not an uncommon issue. We need to go very slow in the process and this can sometimes mean skipping walks for some time or using some other type of walking equipment so that we protect the harness from becoming "poisoned"(the dog viewing it with suspicion and therefore dreading wearing it which makes the process much more difficult). If you are stuck with the picking up the harness part, it may help to turn this into a game of picking up the harness and then tossing a treat. Pick up harness, toss treat, pick up harness, toss treat. Repeat several times and aim for a lovely positive conditioned emotional response. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/conditioned-emotional-response-cer/ After some point, we can turn this into a shaping game, where every time you pick up the harness and he looks at it, you toss a treat. Then aim for him walking towards the harness, just a small step, toss a treat behind him to reset, and wait for another step in the right direction. Keep doing this and always aim for a positive conditioned emotional response. After several reps, we can progress to him nose targeting it, and then him putting the head through it if it's a model that requires that or stepping in it if its a step-in model. I have noticed that many dogs struggle with putting the head through, so a step in harness may work better for these folks. You may also need to work on forming positive associations with the clipping noise before putting it on, by clipping and tossing a treat, unclipping and tossing a treat. For challenging cases, I may use other objects initially to teach the dog to feel confident putting the head through such as a hula-hoop, then I may further practice by crafting some other smaller loop such as one made from a cardboard box to practice with. What I have noticed is that the dog needs to feel confident in inserting the head in, if we make any movement towards their head with the harness, that causes them to back off. If the dog ever struggles with any of these actions, then we need to take that as a sign of needing to split the exercise into smaller steps. The whole process can take time and lots of patience, which often leads to dog owners to often just pick up the dog and force the harness, but the problem is that at some point, the dog may resent being picked up and may play hard to catch, adding a further challenging element to the problem. Sometimes, having a volunteer canine buddy over that is eager to wear a harness and having this dog wear the harness several times, may help convince these guys that a harness is nothing to worry about and that it's the key to unlocking the fun outdoor world.

Hi, thanks for the update! I am glad the issue fixed itself.

Hi there, welcome to the forums! Congrats on your two new puppies! And how great that they are already doing so well in potty training, kudos to you! Sure, it's far better to introduce to crates now that they are young and more amenable than trying later on. The process should be easier if their breeder already acclimatized them to a crate, which would be the ideal scenario, but not all breeders invest their time in doing that. You can find the guide for helping in the process here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/love-the-crate/ If you must keep them in the crate at night, and they were used to sleeping on the bed, the process may result in some protests as they really cherish the closeness with us. Here you will find some tips to make the process a little smoother:

Hi there, welcome to the forums, At this age, puppies are very clingy and afraid of being left alone. Accompanying her to potty is important, because we need to be out with them to praise and reward them. We can also start teaching them to go potty on command this way. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/potty-on-command/ When you take outside at night, make it extra boring, put the leash on, take her to her spot, give her the opportunity to potty and then put her back into the crate. You want to make this as emotionless and boring as possible. If you haven't already, you may find the potty training guide helpful: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/. This section specifically covers training to go potty outside:https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/training-your-dog-to-go-outdoors/ The excessive fear is likely because she wasn't properly socialized by the breeder. You will need to compile a list of her triggers and present them very gradually and create positive associations with them. You can find some general tips here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/helping-fearful-rescue-dog/ For fear of going on walks: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/fear-going-walks/ For fear of getting in the car: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/fear-getting-car/ For fear of people, you can try the treat/retreat game: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/how-to-play-the-treat-and-retreat-game/ For nipping and jumping behaviors: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/replacement-behaviors-to-stop-puppy-biting/ Make sure to encourage independent play with some brain games and play some bite inhibition games: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/

Hi there! I am glad you got this sorted out! It's often a matter of practicing more and more until the behavior is quite fluent and then we can ask several quick downs with verbal cue first, hand gesture right after and then in the midst of them, use only verbal cue. Sometimes, in cases where the dog still struggles, we can still help by making the hand gesture, but making it less and less visible and pronounced each time. For future reference, here is how the process looks like:

Hi there, Welcome to the forums, sorry for the late reply, life got hectic lately! To address your questions: A. Even after being the age that she is and the fact that it's gone on for upwards of 2 years, can she unlearn this aggressive behaviour? Yes, it is possible to manage and shift the emotional response at this age, although it may require some more time considering how behaviors that have been rehearsed for longer take more effort to manage/change. B. How can I tell a dog behaviourist has the right idea of things/is using the right methods as yours are the best I've seen and I'd like to learn from them, I just don't know if a behaviourist would agree or use similar techniques. There are many different training philosophies, but research has found that methods that are based on any coercion/aversion have the potential for side effects which can make the problem behavior even worse. For sake of an example, let's consider the fact that dogs have the uncanny ability to pair one stimulus/event with another. This occurs courtesy of classical conditioning. Would you think that a dog would learn to be calmer around other dogs if she would associate the sight of another dog with a leash correction or a delicious treat? Of course, this is just a simplistic example as there is much more involved in changing a dog's emotional response to triggers that evoke reactive behaviors due to negative emotional responses. If you would like to go more in depth on this here are some reads: https://avsab.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/How_to_Choose_a_Trainer_AVSAB.pdf https://www.sfanimalcare.org/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/Why-We-Dont-Punish.pdf https://www.researchgate.net/publication/261106650_Dog_training_methods_Their_use_effectiveness_and_interaction_with_behaviour_and_welfare https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/blog/all-dogs-go-heaven/201712/punishment-based-dog-training-risk-factor-euthanasia?fbclid=IwAR0fZfGQOfVYf9CJLAhUY3jeQA9CngsM2yXa_fxQ1uyZmioaFfXGjeOby9E This is how I approach reactivity towards other dogs on walks: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/how-to-make-your-dog-less-reactive-on-walks/ Please feel free to ask any further questions, Happy Training!

Hi there, Welcome to the forums, In these cases, behavior modification is needed to get to the root of the problem, however, management-wise there are some shortcuts: 1) Keeping the dog crated when in the car 2) Using car window-side shades 3) Having the dog wear a calming eye mask Behavior modification requires having a helper ride in the backseat with the dog and help the dog form positive associations with the trigger, the process is similar to this, but only that the helper will be working on whatever triggers him (moving vehicles zooming by) rather than people approaching: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/barking-strangers-car/ Let me know if you have any questions, Best, Adrienne

You're very welcome! The best approach is to start with the most pressing issue and what you are struggling the most. So if we have high energy levels that may likely transfer to walks, let's do the brain games : https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/ and kibble toss game which can be easily done by sitting or standing and consists of keeping a portion of the dog's daily ration of kibble in a pocket or treat bag and tossing the kibble at a distance repeatedly causing your Husky to repeatedly yo-yo back and forth between you and the tossed kibble. If your dog knows how to sit, lie down or hand target, we can insert these behaviors before tossing the kibble for the benefit or adding obedience. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/ If you have food and he's whining, try your best to toss the kibble only once he hasn't whined for at least 10 seconds or you can try to preempt the whining by doing several quick sessions in a row so that he doesn't even have time to think about whining. Asking him to sit prior to tossing the kibble will also keep his mind off whining and more in an operant state. Doing these activities prior to the walk may help lower some energy, but this is only a part of the problem. The other problem is training him to walk politely on the leash. The type of walking gear you use can make a difference, you may need to use a front-attachment harness or a head halter. But prior to walking him outside, it may be best to practice a lot indoors, like in a long hallway, possibly initially without a leash. Then, you can gradually start practicing in the yard, in front of the house, and then in short back and forth walks around the neighborhood, but only where there are little distractions. Distractions need to be incorporated very gradually. You may need to practice a lot around people, and getting some volunteers such as friends and neighbors can help. Distance can help keep your dog under the threshold. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ You can find more about how to train polite leash walking here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/pulling-on-the-leash/ If walks are too energy straining or difficult, it may be best to have a family member or friend implement this training and then let you take over the task of walking once the dog's energy levels have been drained and he's better under control. Or maybe do walks together and have your helper/friend walk him at first and then you may try to walk him on the way back once all the excitement has been turned down a notch. There are also leashes crafted for having a dog walk with two people, with each person holding one leash attached to the dog. However, the ultimate goal is always training which requires some time to implement. If he's whining when in the pen, have you tried giving him a frozen stuffed Kong when he's put there? This should keep him happy and entertained for some time. Although this guide is for teaching dogs to love the crate, it can also be used to teach dogs to enjoy being in the pen: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/love-the-crate/ Please use extra caution, and remember to prioritize your health and well being. Ask for help and take it easy and adjust your routine as needed.

Hi there, Welcome to the forums, I am sorry to hear you are dealing with all of these health challenges along with limited mobility. This can be challenging because Huskies are so high-energy dogs. I really hope you have a family member that can walk him because these dogs were built to walk and run and can get very frustrated if their exercise needs aren't met. At 1 year old, your Husky is also nearing the adolescent stage which is when they have boundless energy. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/survive-dogs-adolescent-stage/ If you don't have a family member to help out, having a neighbor, friend or dog walker who can walk him is important. Another option is doggy daycare. With their exercise needs met, then these dogs are easier to manage and that is when we can work on providing them with the mental stimulation and training they crave. So you have lots of brain games to choose from if you go to this page: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/ Clicker training tricks can also be a good way to keep that brain busy: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/ Nosework and scent games can be fun yet somewhat tiring activities. One game I love a lot and that can help drain some energy is the "kibble-toss game." It can be done by sitting or standing and consists of keeping a portion of the dog's daily ration of kibble in a pocket or treat bag and tossing the kibble at a distance repeatedly. The dog should therefore be repeatedly yo-yoing back and forth between you and the tossed kibble. To make the game even more "productive" insert some behavior before the treat is tossed. For example, you can ask your dog to sit in front of you before tossing the treat, or hand target or lie down or any other trick. You can mix and match behaviors so he never gets bored. Automatic treat dispensers, food puzzles, automatic bubble machines, automatic ball launchers can also provide some exercise remotely, but you still want to be involved in some activities so as to help strengthen the bond between you and your dog. Remember to prioritize your health and well being while caring with your dog. Its OK to ask for help and take it easy and adjust your routine as needed. I hope this helps!

You're very welcome! Keep us posted on how it goes!

This can certainly appear like an odd behavior, but dogs have their own good reasons for barking at things. Sometimes it's not easy to pinpoint exactly what the initial trigger was, especially if we're not always outside with them. Perhaps your dog one day witnessed a bolt of lightning that hit the ground, or perhaps an airplane flew very low, hurting his sensitive ears. Perhaps something fell onto him from a tree. It could also be your dog felt pain one day and associated it with the sky. Sometimes, dogs may find out that whatever they are doing grabs out attention, and therefore they keep doing it because they like the attention. And we must consider medical issues as well. Some out-of-the-blue behaviors of looking upwards may be related at times to seizures or pain. A trip to the veterinarian is important to rule out medical causes when there are sudden onset behavior changes. Since you haven't established a strong recall with him yet, there are some alternate behaviors you can engage him in so as to take his mind off the sky. One would be scattering kibble on the ground before he is sent outside and telling him to "find it!" so the first thing he thinks about when going out is to go on a fun treasure hunt. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-treasure-hunt/ Another is to make a smacking sound: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/the-airplane-game/the-smacking-sound/ Another is using a dog flirt pole to get him focused on that or tossing some balls for him to chase. If this is difficult, there are some automatic ball launchers or even machines that emit bacon-flavored bubbles for dogs which dogs have a blast with chasing. Upping your dog's brain games and training can also keep his mind focused on other activities so that he doesn't get bored and feel compelled to seek a hobby of his own, whether it's digging craters in the yard, barking at things or getting obsessed about the sky.

You are very welcome! I am glad to hear that you are feeling better. I am glad to also hear his barking has reduced! I am afraid for the scent there's not much we can do other than block access to that area too or try to redirect it by calling him over, asking him to sit and then toss some kibble or treats to keep his mouth busy and keep on repeating until he's less interested in that scent he has caught. Talking about great nose, it may be fun to engage in him some nose work exercises. Nosework kits can be purchased online. In regards to walks, perhaps you can have a friend, neighbor or family member walk him or you can hire a dog walker for a few days of the week while you supplement with play, training and brain games. Keep me posted and feel free to post here if you have any questions. Best, Adrienne

Thank you for the extra details, they are very helpful! Teddy is so lucky to always have company, that's crucial in cases of separation distress and during the initial stages when behavior modification is first started. In regards to the biting episodes directed towards your mom, you will see my thoughts under the information provided. "I think I have identified three causes for his biting, but it doesn’t explain everything. I still don’t know what triggers some instances. In one case, she will go to stand up from her chair. She isn’t fast about standing up. If he is on the ottoman in front of her chair, he will nose boop her once to tell her to sit down (I presume) and if she continues to try to stand he will grab her arm with his mouth." This sounds like he may be using his mouth as a form of communication, some dogs use their mouths like hands. It is more common in herding dogs like German shepherds, but other dog breeds may use their mouths when they want to communicate something like if they want to be taken outside to potty or simply wanting to play or interaction of some kind. It could also be residual puppy biting that may take place just because her hand/arm becomes more readily available. In any case, sharp teeth and delicate skin aren't a good match, so we may need to implement some strategy to preempt this behavior. If this happens reliably when she is about to get up, it may help to have her carry some dog treats or kibble in her pocket and toss those one by one, preferably at a distance as she works on getting up. This can give her dog something else to do so that the dog's mind is focused on something else. Once your dog gets trained by you, she can then rely on a cue before tossing the treat such as asking him to sit and stay and watch as she gets up and then be released and rewarded with a fun treat toss. Here is how to train stay (your dog will need to know sit and down prior, but in the meanwhile a treat toss without asking for any particular behavior may turn helpful so that he doesn't get to practice the unwanted behavior): https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/stay/. In another instance, she will be looking at her tablet and he will jump in her lap and grab the same arm in his mouth. I assume it is his way of asking for her to put down her tablet, but sometimes, even when she does put it down, he will occasionally, continue to grab at her arm. I agree, it sounds like he is seeking attention, many dogs struggle when we are on the phone or using our computers. In this case, it may be helpful if you can prepare in advance one or two frozen Kongs (you will find many recipes on the Kong website and can use your dog's meals too) so that she can get some quiet time while your dog is kept busy too. Even better, have her put the Kong in an exercise pen so that he can go in there to enjoy it. If he plays hard to catch, it may help to place the frozen Kong in the pen with him outside a few minutes prior so that we can build a little bit of desire/anticipation so that when she opens it, he voluntarily enters and she can then close him in there until he's done. The pen will still be in the same room so that he doesn't feel isolated. This can be a good option if he's OK with being confined (something I recommend doing with all dogs, unless they have confinement phobias/severe separation distress). In the third instance, she will be eating soft ice and he will pat on her arm with his paw once while looking at the ice and if she doesn’t give it to him, he grabs her arm with his mouth. Even in this instance, it may help to coordinate her soft ice time with him receiving a frozen Kong on a mat or inside the play pen. Going back to the pillow incident mentioned in my original post, he likes trying to bite some of the fabric on that pillow. I have been trying to work with him on leaving it alone, but it is slow going.. My mother was relocating it so he could not get to it, which is what triggered him grabbing her arm. I think it might have been a case of resource guarding. "When in doubt, keep it out" is one of my favorite sayings. If he likes to chew on it and there is the possibility he's resource guarding it, best to keep it out of reach. It's also important to teach him how to leave it, drop it, and the art of trading. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/take-leave-it/ https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/drop-it/ While in the process of being trained, if he should get a hold of something he shouldn't have, here is a way to get ahold of an object while reducing the risk of being bitten (and any hard feelings). I developed this method after dealing with several resource guarders coming over for boarding and training. -Find something edible that is higher in value than what your dog has. Think about something your dog loves and drools for that is safe for him to have. Maybe it's a bully stick or his Kong stuffed with something tasty, such as some green tripe or smelly canned dog food. Think of something valuable that is long-lasting. Whatever it is, keep it handy so you can reach out for it as needed. In your mom's case you can have this item on a shelf that she can easily reach for but the dog can't. Let your dog see it, and as soon as you notice interest, have her walk past a door, toss the desired item past the door at a distance, and as soon as your dog is past the door, close the door between you and your dog so that your dog is confined and she can safely remove the object without inteference. This method works well because, on top of getting your dog to voluntarily relinquish the object, you are also teaching him the art of "fair trading." In other words, instead of dreading you coming his way when he has a possession in fear of you pulling it out of his mouth, he looks forward to it because he has learned that you always have something better to offer. After retrieving the object and opening the door, I like to toss the dog a few extra treats if, after eating his Kong or bully stick, he comes right back to search for the lost item. This seems to help give the dog some type of "closure." If he's spending a lot of time with your mom, it's important to ensure a good amount of his needs are met prior to him spending time with her. The morning he's being dropped off make sure he has been walked prior, played with, has eliminated and prepare some brain games for him to enjoy at intervals when your mom wants to have a little quiet time. There are also some remote treat dispensers that can be activated with a remote and under the brain games section you will find several ways to encourage independent play so that he's not seeking her out for attention/interaction.

Hi there, welcome to the forums! I'm sorry to hear about all the challenges you have faced with your health and the loss of your husband and your previous Cairn, Wally. It's evident that Griffin holds a special place in your heart and you and Griffin have been through quite a journey together! It's understandable that navigating training when dealing with mobility issues can be incredibly challenging. Given your circumstances, it's crucial to find training approaches that align with your capabilities and ensure both your and Griffin's safety. While traditional methods may not be feasible, there are certainly creative solutions we can explore together. A training plan that emphasizes mental stimulation and reinforces positive behaviors without the need for physical exertion sounds like the ideal approach. You will likely have to focus on exercises that can be performed indoors or in controlled environments to minimize the risk of falls or encounters with wildlife. Interactive toys, puzzle feeders, and scent games can help engage Griffin's mind and provide enrichment without requiring strenuous physical activity. Additionally, incorporating verbal cues and hand signals can facilitate communication with Griffin, allowing you to convey your expectations and reinforce desired behaviors effectively. It sounds like he may also benefit from some relaxation techniques. If using a food lure is not possible to train a cue such as down, you may find capturing helpful: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/what-is-capturing-in-dog-training/ It's great that he'll pick up dropped items for you! That's an awesome activity that surely benefits you both. Smart as he is, I am sure he would enjoy clicker training and trick training. If you want to manage his barking and excitement, you may it helpful implementing desensitization and counterconditioning techniques. Gradually exposing him to triggers such as the sight of deer, birds, or delivery trucks through a window can be a good starting point. Here is a guide: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ You may find it useful to use environmental management strategies, such as closing curtains or using white noise machines, to minimize external stimuli that may trigger barking indoors when not actively working on the problem. Consider enlisting the help of a trusted friend or neighbor to accompany you during outdoor training sessions to provide additional support and assistance as needed. By focusing on indoor training, utilizing safe outdoor spaces, and prioritizing mental enrichment activities, you can work towards achieving better control over Griffin's behavior while accommodating your mobility limitations. Remember to be patient, consistent, and adaptable in your approach. Together, you and Griffin can overcome these challenges and continue to build a strong and fulfilling relationship. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any particular questions or would like to do some troubleshooting.

Hi there, welcome to the forums! I'm sorry to hear about all the challenges you have faced with your health and the loss of your husband and your previous Cairn, Wally. It's evident that Griffin holds a special place in your heart and you and Griffin have been through quite a journey together! It's understandable that navigating training when dealing with mobility issues can be incredibly challenging. Given your circumstances, it's crucial to find training approaches that align with your capabilities and ensure both your and Griffin's safety. While traditional methods may not be feasible, there are certainly creative solutions we can explore together. A training plan that emphasizes mental stimulation and reinforces positive behaviors without the need for physical exertion sounds like the ideal approach. You will likely have to focus on exercises that can be performed indoors or in controlled environments to minimize the risk of falls or encounters with wildlife. Interactive toys, puzzle feeders, and scent games can help engage Griffin's mind and provide enrichment without requiring strenuous physical activity. Additionally, incorporating verbal cues and hand signals can facilitate communication with Griffin, allowing you to convey your expectations and reinforce desired behaviors effectively. It sounds like he may also benefit from some relaxation techniques. If using a food lure is not possible to train a cue such as down, you may find capturing helpful: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/what-is-capturing-in-dog-training/ It's great that he'll pick up dropped items for you! That's an awesome activity that surely benefits you both. Smart as he is, I am sure he would enjoy clicker training and trick training. If you want to manage his barking and excitement, you may it helpful implementing desensitization and counterconditioning techniques. Gradually exposing him to triggers such as the sight of deer, birds, or delivery trucks through a window can be a good starting point. Here is a guide: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ You may find it useful to use environmental management strategies, such as closing curtains or using white noise machines, to minimize external stimuli that may trigger barking indoors when not actively working on the problem. Consider enlisting the help of a trusted friend or neighbor to accompany you during outdoor training sessions to provide additional support and assistance as needed. By focusing on indoor training, utilizing safe outdoor spaces, and prioritizing mental enrichment activities, you can work towards achieving better control over Griffin's behavior while accommodating your mobility limitations. Remember to be patient, consistent, and adaptable in your approach. Together, you and Griffin can overcome these challenges and continue to build a strong and fulfilling relationship. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any particular questions or would like to do some troubleshooting.

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! I am sorry to hear that poor Maggie is petrified of water. Fears in humans and animals are professionally worked on by using a combination of management, desensitization and counterconditioning. I suggest getting familiar with the process of desensitization and counterconditioning. Here is a guide on desensitization: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/desensitization/ Here is a guide on counterconditioning: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/counterconditioning/ Here you will find some samples of behavior modification for helping a dog conquer the fear of water: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/fear-water-bathing/ Of course, every dog is different so every case needs an individualized approach. In general, the more fearful the dog, the more you will need to work on taking baby steps ensuring the process remains as low-stress as possible, this often entails doing some troubleshooting. Sadly, going to the groomer risks making her fears worse as they will be restraining the dog to get the job done and don't have the time to work on easing the dog's fears. This leads to sensitization rather than desensitization. A study has found that going to the groomer can be stressful for dogs for the entire duration of the grooming session but also during the arrival up until the exit. There are several things grooming staff can do to make visits less stressful such as giving arriving dogs a cookie (with the owner's permission) and letting the dog approach them first rather than the other way around, but this is often not enough to ease the fear in dogs who suffer from fears and phobias. Unless you have access to a fear-free groomer who can take steps to make the bathing less stressful (here is a directory): https://fearfreepets.com/resources/directory/ I would suggest working on her fears in a gradual systematic manner. As the warm season nears, this would be a good time to get started. She would need to be comfortable being bathed and accepting water in her bowl before being able to enjoy being in the lake. So you would start with low level exposures as mentioned above, and then only once she's doing better with the sensation of being wet, you can introduce her to a baby pool by getting in the baby pool yourself and start pretending to dig with your hands and feet in the water and have a blast. Toss your dog treats as she watches you kick the water with your feet as if digging some underwater treasure and let her go back and forth, yo-yoing from eating tossed treats and then approaching the pool. Then try tossing some treats and toys in the pool and see whether she may jump in or at least try getting them. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/high-school/bobbing-for-treats/ When at the lake, have your dog watch you have a blast playing with waves, digging with your feet in the sand and tossing balls. Then start walking more and more inside the water and see whether your dog reaches you. If she does, praise like crazy and toss the ball away from the water. The reason you toss it away if because you want your dog coming back on her own because it's so much fun. If you toss the ball towards deeper water instead, you risk scaring her. Make sure to make this a wonderful experience. For stubborn cases, often what really helps is bringing along a confident dog that the dog is friends with. It's called social facilitation and it's the power of dogs learning from observing other dogs. Often times, this is the missing piece to the puzzle. Have a dog who loves swimming in the pool show your dog how fun the experience can be. Have your dog watch him getting in and out of the pool with ease. So this is the process, but of course, every dog needs an individualized approach. Be warned, the process is often slow, and you need to be constantly watching her body language. If you notice any setbacks, you need to evaluate how to go back a few steps without overwhelming her further. If you can't get her calm enough to get started, your vet may be able to prescribe some calming supplements/meds to be used along behavior modification. This is for the most part temporary just to take the edge off enough and get the process rolling so as be able to get her to cognitively function. Feel free to post updates and we can always do some troubleshooting if you're struggling.