Adrienne Farricelli

Hi, welcome to the forums, Can you please list the "old tricks' you have tried so far and that are no longer working? Has he seen the vet recently to rule out medical problems? From the picture it looks like Taz is wearing a pinch (prong) collar, have you tried to use a no-pull harness instead? Since when have you started using that collar? When did this behavior start? Please provide more info about his history (was he walking find when he was a young pup?) thanks

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! I have been very busy lately, but now should be back on track. First of all, take a deep breath.. you are not alone, and what you’re experiencing is common for many first-time puppy owners, especially with a high-energy, intelligent breed like a Miniature Pinscher. While they can be challenging due to their bold and spirited nature, they are absolutely trainable with the right guidance and consistency. Your awareness and willingness to seek help already puts you on the right path. So to answer your question, is this possible? the answer is a profound Yes. With a structured plan, realistic expectations, and a bit of patience, Rocky can absolutely become a well-mannered companion. The early months are crucial, but they’re also forgiving. Puppies are learning machines, sort of little sponges and what matters most is setting a foundation built on positive reinforcement, clarity, and emotional safety. Some tips to start: Focus on the basics: Name recognition, hand targeting, sit, and recall are great starting points. These build communication and engagement. Management is your friend: Use baby gates, exercise pens, and crates to prevent unwanted behaviors and keep him safe. Enrich his mind: Puzzle feeders, snuffle mats, and safe chew toys help meet his mental and physical needs and reduce frustration. Short, fun sessions: At his age and since he is new to training, 3–5 minute training sessions several times a day are ideal. About your trip. It’s perfectly fine to begin training now, even if you’ll be taking a break soon. In fact, doing so helps both of you. A week of positive, consistent interaction can help Rocky settle, build trust, and start understanding what’s expected of him. Then when you return, you'll both pick up with more confidence. If someone else is caring for him while you’re away, provide clear instructions, keep routines predictable, and don’t worry if no new training happens. At this point, preventing backsliding is a win during that time. Finally, if you’re finding it overwhelming, consider working with a fear-free certified trainer who can help personalize a plan and support both you and Rocky through this stage. You’ve got this! and so does he! Happy training! Best, Adrienne

Glad to hear! I am here is you need extra info or have questions. Best, Adrienne

Hi, thank you for your question. It’s very common for herding breeds like Shelties to be highly stimulated by movement, consider they were selectively bred for herding small livestock and chasing or barking at people or golf carts is a natural extension of their instinct to control motion. That said, this behavior can become problematic, so yeah, it's wise that you're addressing it now. What makes this behavior addicting is the fact that since the behavior is inadvertently reinforced (the “intruder” always moves away), it becomes a self-rewarding habit. Therefore the more they get to practice this, the more habit forming it becomes. It is therefore paramount to reduce or totally remove access to visual triggers. This can be done through the use of privacy fencing, reed rolls, garden privacy screens or tall plants so as to blur the view of the golf coiurse. Even partial visual obstruction can help reduce arousal. This is the ideal solution, because left to their own devices, the behavior will reoccur considering that it's a breed-specific behavior that is reinforcing of its own. If you only correct/redirect the behavior when you are present, the behavior will continue when you are not around due to its nature. So the choice is usually you either use some type of barrier to reduce arousal levels, or you only keep them outside when you are there to quickly redirect. Left on their own, they will make their own choices. In general, i like to use both approaches. In other word, I use some visual barriers, and on top of that i only let the dogs out when in my presence. This way I am always there and don't allow them to rehearse the undesirable behavior over and over. To quickly redirect, I like to us a kissing sound and toss high value treats the moment the dogs turn my way to look at me. I usually start this exercise indoors, using the look at that method. If your dogs can see the carts/people from your home, start indoors and the move on to having the dogs on leash (preferable one dog each with a helper) until the learn to pay attention to you and turn your way. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/university/look-at-that/ The goal is to obtain a nice positive conditioned emotional response: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/conditioned-emotional-response-cer/ More info on dogs chasing things: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/chasing-things/ While sonic devices may interrupt barking in the moment, they do not address the underlying motivation and can increase anxiety if misused. If they suppress the barking without changing the emotional state (e.g., excitement, frustration), you may see a rebound in behavior when the device is removed or even other behavioral issues. Often, chasing and barking are made worse by excess energy or boredom. Consider upping your dog's activity levels and mental stimulation through the use of: Short nosework games, food puzzles, or “find it” games in the yard. A daily routine of training, fetch, or walks before outdoor time. Your dogs also benefit from good impulse control training; https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ This type of behavior won’t resolve overnight, especially since it has likely been reinforced over time. But with a combination of management, structured training, and environmental modification, most dogs improve significantly. I hope this helps, Happy Training!

You are very welcome! Keep me posted on how things go!

If the praise and rub makes him happy, you can stick to that. It is a bit odd for a puppy to not be interested in treats. What i notice, is that when they are very young, they often don't see well the treat or have some trouble focusing. Their ability to track small objects especially if the treat is tossed or placed subtly may not be fully developed. They may also struggle with quick hand movements or low-value visual stimuli. What i have noticed is that after a few days, these puppies are better able to see/grasp them. I sometimes practice tossing the treats on the floor in the kitchen so that they hear the sound and the movement attracted them. If you still struggle, your pup may be overstimulated or stressed and this can suppress food motivation or make it harder for them to focus enough to notice or value the treat. Furthermore, young puppies have tiny mouths and developing taste preferences. If the treat is too big, too hard, or unfamiliar in flavor, they may not know what to do with it. Using soft, smelly, and pea-sized treats (like tiny bits of boiled chicken) usually works better. I think with time, your pup will become very interested in treats! Keep me posted, Best, Adrienne

Hi there, Thank you for reaching out, you're absolutely not alone in facing this kind of challenge. Many of us are super busy and it can get challenging at times. Managing a household, job, and four energetic dogs is no small feat, especially as a single parent. You’re right that training dogs individually is often recommended, particularly early on, to reduce distractions and give each dog the chance to focus and learn. However, when time is limited and you're seeing the others get overly excited or frustrated while you work with just one, we need to adapt the approach to your reality. This is what I usually do. I keep the other dogs not being trained in their own crates with something to chew on or a stuffed Kong or some other long-lasting treat. This will keep them busy and we also create routine which makes them eager to see you train all the other dogs. The good news is that once they know the basics individually, you can start working on behaviors like "sit" or "wait" as a group. If you want to work more on impulse control, at some point, you can start to no longer use crates, but use mats where each dog lies down with something good to chew and keep occupied, until it's their turn. Here is how to train a dog to lie on a mat: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ If some of your dogs get along particularly well, try training two at a time. Sometimes dogs can learn from each other and help keep each other calm. If training time is limited, mental enrichment (like puzzle feeders, scent games, or chew toys) can help reduce frustration and excess energy that builds up when they see you working with one dog. So yeah, make sure to provide brain games. Remember to set realistic expectations, wiith your full plate, it’s okay to go slow. Progress may take longer, but consistency over time matters more than perfection in the short term. If the overexcitement escalates into barking, fighting, or stress among your dogs, it might be worth consulting directly with a veterinary behaviorist or certified professional dog trainer to create a customized plan. You're doing a lot already! Taking care of your dogs and trying to train them shows real dedication. Even small, consistent steps will make a difference.

Hi, there, welcome to the forums! Your dog is adorable! Thank you for reaching out. It’s wonderful that your dog feels secure when you leave him at home. This tells us he can handle separations under certain conditions. The issue you're seeing when you bring him to public places is a different type of challenge. In new or stimulating settings like coffee shops, offices, veterinarian practices or social gatherings, your dog’s world suddenly becomes unpredictable. In those moments, you become his safe anchor. When you move away, his anxiety spikes because he isn’t confident navigating that unfamiliar environment without you yet. Here’s how you can start helping him: Teach Mat Behavior in Easy Locations First: it's important to start this at home first. So start in calm places like your living room by teaching him to relax on a mat while you move around. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ Gradually, you’ll teach him that he can stay settled even when you leave his immediate side. Practice Low-Stakes Departures: Begin by stepping just a foot or two away, returning quickly before he becomes anxious, and rewarding him for remaining calm. Over time, build distance and duration slowly before trying it again in high-stimulation places like coffee shops. Too overstimulating environments (busy, noisy places) can flood him with stress hormones. Desensitize Him to Public Environments: Right now, simply existing calmly in public (without you moving away) is already a learning experience. Spend time sitting with him in public spaces and quietly rewarding relaxed behaviors like lying down on a mat, sniffing, or casually observing. Use Strategic Management at First: In busy locations, position him where he feels safer, perhaps in a corner or tucked under a table, away from foot traffic, and give him something engaging like a chew, lick mat, or stuffed Kong to enjoy on a mat. Having something soothing to work on redirects his focus away from watching your every move and taps into calming behaviors like licking and chewing. If he won't eat, take that as a sign that he's too anxious in public settings and not ready for practicing at this level. Always stay below his panic threshold when training. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/threshold-levels/ He may need more time ot feel comfortable. Teach him to calmly observe people and dogs at a distance without reacting. Reward things like looking at a passerby and then turning back to you, or noticing a dog and staying relaxed. Gradual Exposure: Pick the easiest public settings first (quiet outdoor cafes, uncrowded parks), then very gradually work up to busier places. Provide him with something to chew and walk away briefly and return right back to him. Before you move away, you may want to introduce a consistent cue like "Be right back" said in a relaxed tone. Over time, this teaches him that your absence is temporary, predictable, and safe. Go very gradual. Rushing the process or being away for too long can backfire and increase anxiety instead of reducing it. Keep it short and sweet: start with very brief departures: for example, stand up, step away one step, return. Go refill your coffee cup and return. Tiny wins build confidence. If you are still struggling despite going slowly and not seeing progress, take that as a sign he's in a too high anxiety state. He may need over the counter or prescription calming aids along with the behavior change process to help him better cope with brief abscences and progress. Let me know if you need further assistance!

Hello, sorry for the delay. I have been traveling on a repositioning cruise across the Atlantic and the internet package was horrible. It’s wonderful that you’re planning ahead for a service dog to assist your daughter, and it’s clear you care deeply for the wellbeing of both your "Old Man" and your new "Wackadoodle." You are correct that keeping them separated for now is the safest choice, especially given the puppy’s size, energy, and lack of awareness around fragile dogs. Puppies, particularly those bred from high-energy working lines like Aussiedoodles, often lack the impulse control needed to interact gently without direct, structured guidance. What you are seeing with "Wackadoodle" throwing his body, biting the fence, and trying to escape is frustration-driven behavior. In his mind, the barrier is blocking him from the fun, social interaction, and exploration he craves. He has fear of missing out. Even though he has space, toys, and outdoor access, his need for mental engagement and structure isn't fully satisfied yet and that’s very normal for his developmental stage. Here are some targeted recommendations to help settle him: Reinforce calm behaviors- Actively train "Wackadoodle" to relax near the barrier rather than fight it. You can reward him only when he is calm, for example, quietly sitting, lying down, or chewing a toy. Scatter feeding (tossing small handfuls of kibble around his area for him to sniff and find) can also promote natural foraging behaviors that reduce frustration. Provide Predictable Routines-Puppies thrive on predictability. Create a clear routine where he learns, “When I am calm and quiet, I get ______” (access to humans, a short play session, a treat puzzle, etc.). If he tantrums at the fence, do your best to not reward the behavior with attention, even negative attention. Only interact when he’s calm, even briefly. Shorter but more frequent rotations: right now, the longer he is penned without enough structured activities, the more frustrated he becomes. You might find it helpful to rotate the dogs more frequently for shorter periods, but pair "Wackadoodle’s" penned times with enrichment activities, such as: Food-dispensing toys (Kong, Toppl, treat balls) Snuffle mats Lick mats Scent games (e.g., hide treats for him to find) https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/elementary/the-treasure-hunt/ Impulse Control Exercises: Early training on go to your "place" work (going to a bed and staying) https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ and basic obedience can channel that big brain and busy body. Aussiedoodles are extremely smart, and mental work can tire them out even faster than physical exercise. Set up impulse control games: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ Barrier Desensitization: Start brief, structured sessions where you approach and reward him only when he is calm behind the barrier. If he throws a tantrum, walk away. If he calms even for 2-3 seconds, reward that with a food treat tossed behind the gate or gentle praise. Over time, he’ll learn that the barrier is not an obstacle to happiness, calmness is the key. Exercise and Social Outlets: He may benefit from additional structured exercise like leash walks, basic training outings, or puppy classes geared toward service dog prospects. Just "access to the backyard" often isn't enough for high-drive puppies; they need their bodies and minds actively worked under supervission. You are doing a lot right already by providing supervision, safe separation, and attention to both dogs' needs. This frustration phase is common at this age, but with calm consistency, plenty of mental stimulation, and carefully building up positive associations with being behind the barrier, you’ll see improvement. And most importantly: managing his impulses now will only help his future success as a service dog. Let me know if you need any further assistance!

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! Is your dog fearful of walking down the stairs? How old is your dog? Asking because dogs may suffer from depth perception issues. Do you have see-through steps? Is going down the stairs something necessary to go out, or are you just wanting to teach your dog just in case? With fear of the stairs, I have noticed that simply placing treats on the steps so that the dog goes down on his/her choice works best because the dog is given agency and there is no pressure versus using treats to lure/bribe the dog to go down, which can cause approach/avoidance, where they'll feel like following the food, but then realize it's something scary.

Hi Pamela, Welcome to the forums! At 10 months old and 75 lbs., your pup's behavior can surely feel overwhelming! I am sure it feels like a bull in a China shop! What's likely going on is that your puppy is in the full teenager stage, and with this stage comes loads of energy, plus couple that with the fact that dogs are by nature more active in the evening, especially after they have enjoyed their dinner, and you have a recipe for a dog bouncing off the walls. To better understand this behavior, let's take a closer look at what may be going and then we'll take a look at some solutions. Energy Bursts in Adolescent Dogs Dogs, typically go through the adolescent stage (teenager stage) from the ages of 6 and 18 months on average. During this time, there are significant neurobiological, hormonal, and behavioral changes. Some of the most common problems encountered during this stage are a dog's heightened energy levels coupled with increased impulsivity. This can lead to erratic behaviors that can lead to intense surges of activity. What's happening at a neurological level is that their prefrontal cortex (the area responsible for a dog's impulse control) is still developing, which means that dogs during this time struggle with self-regulation and may therefore be prone to impulsive, high-energy outbursts. This hyperarousal may be difficult to manage because it's so out of control. Not coincidentally, it is during the adolescent stage that many dog owners struggle the most. Statistics show us that dogs are surrendered to shelters the most when they're going through this stage. Dogs as Crepuscular Beings Dogs, just like their wild ancestors (wolves), have natural activity peaks during dawn and dusk which makes them crepuscular animals. These times coincide with when most prey animals are active. These evolutionary patterns therefore drive increased playfulness and exploratory behaviors during these times. Build-Up of Energy In domestic settings, dogs may often not get to engage in enough species-typical activities during the day (hunting, digging, foraging, problem-solving), potentially leading to a buildup of energy that gets released unpredictably in the evening. Play Development Adolescent dogs are refining their play skills, so that they grow up to become agile successful "hunters." This, coupled with their high arousal levels, may cause them to be too rough with their mouths, especially if they weren't trained proper bite inhibition when they were younger. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/bite-inhibition-games/ If they are exposed to other young dogs, they will likely engage in juvenile play, but in a home setting, their rough mouthing coupled with their high arousal levels, may be misinterpreted as aggression rather than overstimulated play. The Power of Reinforcement If rough play or biting behaviors have been unintentionally reinforced, the dog learns that their behavior gets attention, making it more likely to repeat. A dog's biting behavior may be inadvertently reinforced by our reactions such as pushing them off, running away or just the mere act of instinctively moving our arms and legs away from harms way. This may be interpreted as engagement and interaction, therefore dogs will want to repeat this experience more and more causing it to establish and become part of their new routine. I have seen many adolescent dogs getting more and more revved up and coming back for more, the more their owners interacted with them, even if just in their attempts to stop the dog's behavior. The Spillover Effect Something else to consider it the "spillover" effect, where the excessive excitement in one context (in this case, playtime) may spill over into overarousal and frustration, leading to biting, lunging and erratic behavior. Some high-energy breeds, like Boxers, are particularly prone to frustration intolerance, meaning they escalate quickly. As these dogs play and get overly aroused, their sympathetic nervous system activates, while their prefrontal cortex is temporarily suppressed, making it more difficult for the dog to regulate their behaviors. This is why an overexcited dog might go from jumping to suddenly nipping and rough mouthing. This is usually not aggression, but a breakdown in self-regulation, basically it's an issue of arousal mismanagement that needs to be addressed. So while your sweet Boxer may seek social play and attention during the day, it looks like when he gets revved up excessively, he may lack the appropriate frustration tolerance and impulse control necessary for him to self-regulate. So What Can Be Done? I often have to remind owners of adolescent dogs that they will eventually see the "light at the end of the tunnel." It's all matter of helping the dog learn how to better regulate his energy and develop better impulse control and frustration tolerance. This is not an overnight fix, but as you work on these skills, you can preempt the "witching hour" by providing more outlets for his need for exercise and mental stimulation and some tweaks in environmental management. Here are therefore some tips: Strategically Increase Mental and Physical Stimulation Since he is well-behaved during the day, you may need to fine-tune his activity schedule by offering some preemptive activities along with mental stimulation. Preempting activities can be a structured evening walk or controlled play session (e.g., tug with clear rules, flirt pole, or scent work) about 1-2 hours before bedtime. In particular, you may found the "jazz up and settle down" exercise particularly helpful as it teaches your dog his "off button." You can find a guide for this game here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/high-school/jazz-up-and-settle-down/ This can help drain excess energy. Avoid overstimulating activities too close to bedtime, as they may escalate arousal rather than help him settle. You also want to work his brain during the day. Food puzzles, scent games, and short training sessions (basic obedience, trick training can help tire him out in a productive way. Implement Impulse Control Training Boxers are high-energy, intelligent dogs that benefit from impulse control exercises. I have compiled a nice list of impulse control games here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ Structured tug games and fetch games may also turn helpful. Teach him that play starts and stops on your terms. Use cues like “take it” and “drop it,” rewarding him when he releases. Manage the Environment If he escalates at night, temporarily managing his environment can be useful. Use a crate or gated-off area where he can’t rehearse the behavior. Pair the space with a high-value chew or stuffed Kong to create positive associations. I like to fill a dog's Kong with wet kibble and freeze it and offer it as a substitute for the food bowl. This should keep the dog occupied for some time. Here more food bowl substitutes: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/adriennes-picks/top-5-dog-feeding-toys/ Have a Plan in Place If he still manages to start lunging and biting, calmly remove yourself. I have found that the best way to do this is to play a kibble toss game. Basically, I will always carry kibble in my treat bag or pocket and the moment I notice the dog approaching me with the intent to nip, I will start tossing him kibble to catch. As he gets the idea of the game, I will start asking him to "sit" before I toss each kibble. This offers 3 main advantages: it prevents the dog from rehearsing the problematic nipping, it gives the dog a nice workout (toss the kibble far from you so that he's forced to be yo-yoing back and forth) and it reinforces the sitting behavior. So this all puts your dog's kibble to good use. With time, your dog will start wanting to play this game more and more rather than nipping. Consider Melatonin Calming Aids Some dogs benefit from calming supplements (under veterinary guidance). Options include L-theanine or casein-based calming chews, Adaptil (dog-appeasing pheromone diffusers, sprays or collars) and other calming aids to help the dog calm down. Avoid Getting Angry or Frustrated Something that I have noticed with these dogs is that the more you get frustrated or angry by the behavior, the more the dog gets rough and revved up. Most likely the dog feeds off our arousal levels which triggers them to get farther and farther from self-regulating. Final Thoughts As seen, your Boxer’s nighttime outbursts are likely a combination of natural teenager energy bursts, immaturity, high arousal levels and learned rough play. By focusing on providing structured exercise and mental stimulation during the day, reinforcing calm behaviors and by managing the environment, you should see a steady and gradual improvement over time. If the issue persists or escalates however, please do not hesitate to work alongside a dog trainer using positive and human training and behavior modification techniques or a board certified veterinary behaviorist of certified applied animal behaviorist if you are lucky to have any near you. I hope this helps! Let me know if you’d like further guidance on specific training techniques! Happy training! Adrienne

I am so glad you figured it out! As I was reading, me start thinking about initial stages of canine Alzheimer's, but then thinking, no maybe not, she's still not that old, but then again, some dogs start early, eek, I hope not! In any case, good catch! My Petra was sensitive to beeping noises and fire alarms, bit this was quite obvious. A Pomeranian I worked with last year, was acting anxious at times and at the end figured out the fan used when cooking was her trigger. It wasn't super easy to figure out because she still acted anxious when it was off, but predicted I would start cooking when walking in that area. It sounds like Esther was fine because perhaps the barely audible beeping did not meet her threshold for concern. In any case, congrats on your impressive observational skills and persistence in identifying the source of stress. Others would have overlooked such a subtle trigger. While replacing the detectors will resolve the immediate issue, consider that Gertie may still retain some anticipatory anxiety around similar sounds. Yup, such a great example of "think horses, not zebras." What makes this case interesting is that the faint beep was so subtle that it disguised itself as a zebra at first, but then, the solution was ultimately a horse in disguise!

Hi Felicity, I sincerely apologize for not responding sooner. I do my best to reply to everyone, but there are times when my schedule, between travel, courses, and other commitments, makes it difficult to respond as quickly as I’d like. Sometimes, I’m in remote areas with limited or unreliable internet access, which can also delay my replies. While I do mention on the member page that I may not always be available, I completely understand how frustrating the wait must have been for you, and I truly appreciate your patience. Now, let’s focus on Pip! From what you’ve described, it sounds like she may be feeling some conflict or uncertainty about going to her bed. As mentioned in the other reply, I feel that it's always important ruling medical problems first. If she is struggling particularly with the bed cue, that makes me wonder whether she may be having some type of joint pain or other physical issue. These dogs tend to have a low pain tolerance. So I think a very thorough medical exam is a must. Once the vet gives her a clean bill of health, then we must consider the possibility that she may have "sensitized" to the request to go to bed. This dog breed is particularly "soft" and they are sensitive to our moods. It may be that she's sensing some mild frustration and your increasingly assertive commands may be pushing her to the edge of "learned helplessness." So let's change the mindset here. Let's think beyond "commands" and more about "cues." In a nutshell, let's reframe this and make the going to bed cue like a fun game. As a matter of fact, we should even rename it, so that she has a fresh start. So if you have used the cue 'bed" let's say "go to your mat" said in a happy tone. Let's go back to basics and make it a fun shaping game. Here is a guide on shaping a "go to mat" cue: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-go-to-mat/ Pair going to the mat with a high-value reward, and never use the cue for punishment or in an angry or frustrated tone. Also, you can reinforce for voluntarily going to the met at random times, rather than only when it’s necessary. This prevents negative anticipation (e.g., "bed" always means the fun is over) If you are using "here" as a recall, the same would apply. Reframe it as fun, so as to create a happy association. If Pip responds slowly, avoid repeating the cue multiple times. This just teaches them to ignore our initial requests. If she doesn't respond for example to your "go to the mat cue,", find another way to get her there, like try walking toward the bed with her and tapping it and then praise reward her for going there. When Pip responds immediately, make sure to take notice and make sure she gets an extra-special reward. Rewarding speed selectively will encourage faster compliance over time. Let me know if this makes sense or if you’d like to go deeper into any specific aspect. I’d be happy to help refine the approach based on how Pip responds! Best, Adrienne

Hello, welcome to the forums, I apologize for the delay in responding. I am sorry to hear that your dog is lately not being responsive as she once was. Based on your description, I feel it's imperative ruling out medical causes first. A sudden shift in responsiveness, increased vocalization, and sensitivity to stimuli could indicate pain and underlying medical issues. I would therefore highly suggest starting with a medical examination, including bloodwork, orthopedic assessment, and possibly neurological evaluation. Once medical issues are ruled out, then it's time to assess this from a behavioral standpoint. Increased barking and sensitivity suggests anxiety or fear-based reactivity. Has there been a significant change in her environment, routine, or household dynamics? In these cases, it's important to to avoid any form of corrections-even demonstrating frustration can cause a dog to become more anxious and less responsive. Reduce exposure to triggers if you're able to identify them. You mentioned that she is increasing more and more reactive to stimuli, which tells us her anxiety is generalizing to other settings. In these cases it's therefore important keeping her as much under threshold as possible. Use desensitization and counterconditioning to help her developing coping skills. Use high-value reinforcers (favorite treats, toys) to make training enjoyable again. Keep sessions short, predictable and most of all, low pressure. Increase mental stimulation with food puzzles, sniffing games, and structured routines to reduce anxiety and frustration. If symptoms persist or escalate, please consult with a board-certified veterinary behaviorist for a tailored plan, including potential behavior modification and medication support.

You can try capturing, in other words, you'll have to catch him when he lies down spontaneously such as when he's about to take a nap. When he does so, click your clicker or use your verbal marker "yes" and toss a treat his way. You will need to carry treats with you all the time either in your pocket or treat bag so that you readily "capture" these downs. With time, your dog should notice that he gets rewarded when he lies down, so may start doing so more and more frequently and with more ease. However, any time there's a reluctance to sit or lie down, it's important to ensure your Chiweenie isn’t experiencing any discomfort in their elbows or elsewhere that might make lying down uncomfortable. Some dogs with joint or muscle issues might avoid certain positions. If this could be a concern, a quick check with your veterinarian is recommended. Some small dogs also may not like to lie down on cold surfaces, so see if a rug or practicing on his bed or carpet makes a difference. Use a high-value treat (something super enticing like chicken or cheese) to see if that helps increase motivation. Some dogs need extra incentive to try a new behavior. Shaping can also help. In shaping, you'll break the exercise in smaller steps. Like you can start by rewarding the crouch itself. Then, bending the elbows slightly. Gradually withhold the reward until they get lower each time. You can practice with some type of furniture initially as if asking the dog to do a play bow. In the video below, I am using a chair since I am training a Rottweiler, but with a Chiweenie you may need to use something lower such as a small stool or place a broomstick across two stable objects at a low height. Use the treat to lure the Chiweenie under it, which should encourage them to bow to fit under the obstacle. With time, delay giving the reward or make it a bit more effortful such as by holding the treat in your closed fist and letting him try to get it. They may lower their butt eventually as they tire staying in the "bowed" position. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/video-archive/train-dog-bow/ If you’re using a low barrier, ensure they're low enough that standing or raising their rear isn’t an option. Guide them through slowly, rewarding as they progress. Celebrate small successes. Training takes time, and some dogs require more practice to feel confident in new positions. It could be your dog is too tense and need to relax more.

Hello, welcome to the forums! There is a potty training section called potty training supercharged. You can find it here: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/ The section that covers indoor potty training is this one: Module 2C: Indoor Elimination (Going Potty Indoors) and this one covers indoor/outdoor: Module 2D: Hybrids (Going Potty Indoors and Outdoors)

Huskies have a lot of energy, this is because they were selectively bred to run for miles and pull sleds. His behaviors suggests that he may not be reaching a point of calm after physical exercise. Overstimulation can manifest as rough play, frustration, and heightened arousal. This does sound like a case of redirected frustration, which of course, is not nice for you (the leash) or the other dog to be on the receiving end. In general, the more aroused the dog, the more likely he is to redirect to neutral targets such as a dog or person nearby who were just quietly minding their own business Of course, as other behaviors, the more your dog gets to practice the behavior, the more habit-forming it becomes. Early intervention is important because with practice, the frustrated dog may come to associate your other dog with the feelings of frustration and may start using dog at the receiving ends as his “punch pillow” which allows him to "vent" in face of any arousing contexts. The behavior may therefore generalize to other frustrating events such as when barking at something he can't get to etc etc. So this is a challenging behavior to work on because it's already difficult to work on this when walking one-on-one with a dog with this behavior, with two dogs, you have the extra challenge of leashes tangling, and the risks for a redirected bite (not out of aggression, simply a knee-jerk reaction to any thing that touches them when they are in this highly aroused state). In cases like this, my suggestions are: -Working a lot in the background on helping these overstimulated dogs learn how to cope with their feelings of frustration and to learn how to control their impulses. Impulse control games can help with this: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ -Adding some mental work into walks (asking for cues such as sit, heel, down, hand target) to keep them focused and engaged. -Using tools like a backpack for dogs with light weights (ask your vet first if this is OK based on his health and age). This can help give him a "job" and tire him out more efficiently. -Supplement walks with other activities such as hiking or pulling activities such as carting or bikejoring. These latter activities align with this dog's breed's natural instincts and gives them the opportunity to release excess energy in a productive way. -Continue offering enrichment with puzzle feeders and put his nose to work. Nosework can be particularly tiring. -The jazz up and settle down game can help find his "off" button: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/high-school/jazz-up-and-settle-down/ -Supervise play. Prevent the play from causing too much overstimulation. Set up, short supervised play, ending them before things get too rough. Offer calm activities such as chewing on something to help tone done all active energy. -You can try using a front attaching harness for more control during walks or a head halter (a conditioning period is required for this latter). -When you reach a certain area where you may predict the behavior of biting on the leash, you can try to preempt it, by tossing treats for him to catch on the ground one after another and keep intermittently tossing treats until the way home. Then once home, provide access to something he really loves doing (like a game of hide and seek, chasing a flirt pole or a treasure hunt) so that he doesn't associate going home with all the fun in his life ending. -Separate walks may be needed initially so that you can work more on Sebastian's impulse control, leash manners and preempting him from reaching the frustrated state. Caution is needed because if this can't be done effectively, he may go back to redirecting his frustration with the leash and you since the other dog is no longer in reach. You may need the help of a dog behavior professional to work on foundation exercises, ensure correct timing and recognizing early body cues of the beginning of over stimulation. Separate walks may also ensure that your other dog has a positive walking experience without being subjected to Sebastian's frustration. -Once Sebastian no longer shows signs of frustration and is better under control, you can gradually add short walks together in low distraction areas. They should be walked ideally with two handlers initially so as to determine whether the problem behavior may be resurfacing and making adjustments as needed. I hope this helps, this is not an easy to address behavior and requires a multi-faceted approach to address helping the dog cope with low frustration tolerance. Disclaimer: dog training and behavior modification, particularly for challenges involving potential aggression (e.g., lunging, barking, growling, snapping, or biting), require in-person guidance from a qualified behavior professional. Online articles/videos are for educational purposes only and do not replace personalized, professional intervention. By using this information, you accept full responsibility for your dog’s actions and waive any liability claims related to their behavior. If your dog shows concerning behaviors, seek professional help immediately to ensure safety and proper care."

Oh, sorry, by saying loose his cool, I didn't really mean it as him turning unfriendly just wanted to describe how dogs may get overstimulated and over the threshold by all the excitement/distractions that it becomes difficult for them to focus. What you are describing as him scratching the ground with his feet is a form of additional "marking." Dogs have pheromone-releasing glands on their paws, so when they scratch other dogs can detect this pheromones. Additionally, if they are scratching on sand or dirt, they will leave visual marks that attract dogs, similar to "arrows" pointing to their urine that tells dogs "come inspect here." To address this you'll need to keep on preempting the peeing, since the scratching happens right after peeing, you'll get two pigeons with one stone. You can certainly use a clicker or verbal marker to reward loose-leash walking or moments when he looks at you instead of the environment when walking around commonly peed on items. High-value treats can be especially useful to maintain his attention. If you're late and your dog is already peeing, you can try to preempt the scratching by training a cheerful cue like "Let’s go!" and reward him for moving along with you and you can then reward with a few tossed treats to catch. Another option is to present your hand and ask for a hand target to redirect his focus right after marking. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/targeting/ With consistent practice and making the replacement behavior and the associated reward, more valuable than the marking/scratching, Sebastian should learn new habits that align with your expectations in public spaces.

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! How exciting! Your puppy is very young so would do for now about 5 minutes at a time max, but of course, every dog is different, so you'll need to learn more about him and see how he does. Also, it varies on the task being trained, some need more brain juice than others. Young puppies do best with short training sessions, so I like to do about 5 minute sessions scattered throughout the day rather than risk with a longer session that the pup may perceive as too long or tedious. Always make training fun and upbeat and end it on a positive note! Happy holidays to you too! Post pictures when you can! Happy training, Best, Adrienne

Hi there, Welcome to the forums! Yes, Dogo Argentinos' are known for being very protective dogs. Like Rottweilers, they are naturally alert and make excellent watchdogs. Originally bred in Argentina for big-game hunting (pursuit of big-game such as wild boar and puma), these mastiff- type dogs are naturally courageous and strong, with a strong protective instinct toward their family. With these dogs, early socialization is crucial considering they are so large and powerful. I am glad to hear that she is only nipping, hopefully she's just a puppy or teenager dog under the age of 1 who is still in the process of learning and is playing a little rough. Regardless, it's important to address this behavior sooner that later. The more she gets to practice this behavior, the more ingrained and difficult to address it becomes. Following are several tips to tackle this behavior. Use Management Management is an important strategy to implement because it prevents the dog from rehearsing the problem behavior, it prevents the behavior from getting rewarded and it helps keep everybody safe. You can prevent ankle biting by simply managing his environment. This may consist of the following strategies: Erect a fence. If your dog is biting the ankles of people walking by your property, make sure to erect a physical fence that is tall and sturdy. Erect a baby gate or use an exercise pen to confine your dog if the ankle biting involves visitors Crate your dog for the duration of the visit Keep your dog in a dog-proofed room Walk the dog for the duration of the visit Use a leash. Keep your dog on a leash at distance from the guests so that your dog is not tempted to bite people's ankles or pant legs Behavior Modification If your dog is biting because she is fearful or guarding something (like a person, a toy, her property), you'll need to implement behavior modification. This may consist of presenting moving people at a distance that don't evoke chasing and biting, while associating the moving strangers with positive outcomes. The dog can be on leash for extra safety and if biting is a concern, the dog can be muzzled. One exercise that may be helpful to start with is the Look at that game implemented under the guidance of a dog behavior professional. Basically, the dog must learn to associate the sight of moving people with treats. Once positive associations are formed, the dog can then be trained to perform an alternate behavior that can be cued to replace the problem behavior. Training Training involves teaching the dog to respond to cues that are often incompatible with the problem behavior. For example, training a dog to your mat behavior at a very fluent, proficient level using high-value reinforcers (treats) can help your dog make good choices. A dog lying on his mat cannot be biting ankles at the same time. You can also train your dog to play a "treat toss" game. This is a game I invented when dealing with a very nippy teenager English setter that used to nip anybody who happened to moved. Basically, all you need to do is toss treats when your dog is around people and encourage her to go "find them." The goal is to make the dog addicted to this game by using super valuable treats that surpass the value of nipping ankles. This game gives dogs a nice workout since they'll be chasing tossed treats, while also helping dissipate their exited energy and emotions. Furthermore, with the mouth busy catching and eating treats, the dog cannot nip people at the same time. What if My Dog Won't Listen to My Training Cues? You mentioned that your knows how to sit on command, but apparently struggles when a person moves. In many cases, this is a sign that the dog is too over the threshold and hasn't learned the cue to a fluent enough level. We can help the dog out by giving the dog more distance from the people walking around and practicing in less distracting settings, before moving to more challenging ones. Keeping the dog on leash is important so as to prevent her from practicing the behavior. Every time she has a chance to nip, she's being reinforced. It also may help to invest in higher value treats so that the desire to chase treats ranks higher than the desire to chase and bite people's ankles or legs. What if My Dog Won't Take Treats? This is also often a sign of a dog too over the threshold to be able to enjoy the treats. These dogs are often in fight or flight mode and need some behavior modification to help take the edge off. Consult with a dog trainer or behavior professional to help you out. Don't Forget to Increase Mental and Physical Stimulation! A mentally and physically tired dog is less likely to exhibit problematic behaviors. Provide structured exercise like fetch, long walks and incorporate mental challenges like puzzle toys or fun training sessions. I hope this helps, Happy Training! Best, Adrienne

Hi, the puppy training course is found here, it's under the the dog training and course tab and the puppy training tab: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/ Happy training!

Hi Yvette, welcome to the forums and congrats on your new puppy! I think Primal raw makes little cubed raw food that some people use for training, but of course the risks for pathogens remains. If you are concerned about handling the food, maybe you can wear disposable gloves? How do you get the raw food out of the package to serve it to her? If you use your hands, I would take advantage of that time for training and skip feeding her from the bowl. You can hand feed her the raw in the area where she normally eats and then wash hands and disinfect everything. You can also spoon feed the raw or use tongs. I saw a video not too long ago of a trainer putting the raw food in a squeeze bottle and squeezing it out. Also, may be you can try baking some of her raw food? I like to bake beef liver as high value treats for dogs and then cut them into small pieces. You can train without treats, but depending on what you are trying to train, it can be a bit challenging. If she's toy motivated it may work, you would use the toy in place of a the food lure and then reward by tossing it. You can also try capturing and tossing a ball to reward desired behaviors. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/what-is-capturing-in-dog-training/ If he likes a tug toy see if you can use it to get her to sit or lie down in lieu of a treat and then praise and let her tug. For stays, you may not even need any food, as being freed from the stay is reinforcing on its own, but still try to toss something (not raw) to reward her and see if he'll eat it. Some dogs will eat more readily when something is tossed. Here are high value foods you may have not tried yet, but please read the labels carefully as some can still contain pathogens and need careful handling: Baked calf liver (fresh and baked in the oven and cut into trips) Liverwurst (Braunschweiger, use in moderation) Freeze dried liver (can contain pathogens) Green tripe treats (can contain pathogens) Cheez-its Cheerios Shredded rotisserie chicken Cut up mozzarella stick Zuke's mini training treat salmon Ziwi air-dried dog foods (still can contain pathogens) Air dried beef lung treats (still can contain pathogens) Fresh Pet's Food Rolls (may contain pathogens) Blueberries I hope this helps, of course, always use caution with handling raw foods.

Hi there, I am not sure what you mean by "training ghost, " but congratulations on your new Weimaraner puppy! They’re an energetic and intelligent breed, which can make them both a joy and a challenge to train. Starting early with consistent training and socialization is key, especially for a potential service dog. Here are some general puppy training tips: 1. Start with building a strong foundation on basic cues such as sit, stay, down. Always start in low-distraction environments and gradually increase the difficulty. You can find how to train these cues in the obedience 101 section. 2. Teach impulse control. You also want to train some cues that help build up his impulse control and frustration tolerance. You'll find these exercises helpful: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/10-impulse-control-games-for-dogs/ 3. At the age of 4 months, the window of socialization is closed. Hopefully the previous caretaker has done a good job in socializing him as this is crucial. You want to however continue socializing him, but always in a way that is pleasant and not overwhelming. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/socializing-your-puppy/ 4. Teach your puppy to make eye contact and check in with you regularly, which will be critical for future service dog work. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/look-into-my-eyes/ 5. Work on potty training. One important cue to teach service dogs is the go potty cue so that they go when you tell them to: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/potty-on-command/ 6. Start with public access training. Gradually introduce your puppy to public spaces, ensuring they are calm and non-reactive to distractions. Public access manners (walking calmly, ignoring distractions) are a cornerstone of service dog behavior. 7. Task-specific training. Once your puppy has mastered basic and intermediate obedience, you can begin training specific tasks based on your needs. Break each task into small, manageable steps and use high-value rewards for success. 8: Monitor temperament. Not every dog is suited for service work, so as your puppy develops, evaluate your puppy’s ability to handle stress, maintain focus, and stays confident in different situations. It takes a solid temperature to make a good service dog and this shows throughout the puppy's development. I hope this helps! Happy training!

Hi Terry, Yes, your goal is reasonable with proper expectations. Something we need to consider is that dogs are not instinctively wired to understand our own definitions of inside and outside rules when it comes to marking. Things may get particularly confusing to dogs, especially when they are in environments that that mix open air settings with stimulating attractions such as farmers markets, fairs, outdoor shopping plazas, outdoor exhibits and other crowded events. Areas like these often offer a sensory overload of smells, people other dogs which can trigger marking behavior especially in male dogs. Dogs may pee in these settings because of ingrained marking tendencies or simply to express their emotional state in these settings such as over stimulation, anxiety or excitement. The good news is that if we are consistent in our training and use several management strategies we can teach Sebastian to generalize an appropriate bathroom etiquette to these situations. One key element is to proactively manage the behavior so as to preempt it from happening, rather than relying on reactive corrections after the fact. Here are some general tips to help set Sebastian for success. 1. Train your dog to go potty on queue. This is something that can help a lot in these cases because when we put a behavior on cue it becomes easier to control. Here is a guide on how to train your dog to go potty on queue: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/advanced-potty-training/potty-on-command/ 2. Prior to taking your dog to events such as farmers markets or festivals make sure your dog is empty. Give him opportunities to go potty just prior to reaching these events. The "go potty" cue can help with this. 3. Start with short visits to public places so that Sebastian can be desensitized gradually and you can set him up for success. This will help build his comfort level and control in such environments. 4. Keep an eye on vertical items. Most dogs will urine mark on vertical items such as tent poles, legs of a table, and any objects that stick out. 5. Keep him on a short leash when walking around the private properties. This will help you manage his proximity to the tempting targets. 6. Be ready to redirect at the first sign of him trying to mark. You may need to train him to be responsive to you in a fluent level prior to progressing to areas with distractions. Helpful cues to train may include making a smacking noise and him making eye contact with you https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/look-into-my-eyes/ or targeting your hand https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/preschool/targeting/ 7. Even better, preempt rather than redirect. In other words, ask for these cues when you are walking by a tempting item so that you prevent him from making a mistake. Teaching him to perform various steps of attention heeling around these items may turn helpful: https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/brain-training/obedience-101/heeling-attention-heeling/ 8. Remember to use high value treats when he follows through these cues. Positive reinforcement training is essential in teaching a dog what we want them to do. 9. Start by training in areas that are less overstimulating or busy and gradually increase the complexity of the environment as he gets better and shows signs of improvement. As the dog becomes responsive, I like to set up an area with tempting objects that scream “mark me!”—think poles, planters, or cones—but the twist I like to add is that I rebrand them as “treat zones.” Basically, I teach the dog that approaching these spots earns tasty rewards instead of pee points. The best part? Over time, your dog might glance at you eagerly in anticipation of a treat instead of lifting a leg. Bonus: Dogs generally won’t potty where they eat, so you’re tapping into their natural instincts to help keep the area clean—win-win! 10, Avoid this big mistake. Don't make the big mistake of going too fast through the process. Exposing your dog to overwhelming environments where he’s likely to lose his cool can backfire. This will only allow him to rehearse the problem behavior which makes it more difficult to address. Therefore start in chill spots like a quiet park or a cozy café patio, when it's less crowded. Basically pick places where distractions are minimal and he can focus on being his best self. Then, slowly amp up the excitement over weeks or months, always rewarding his inner Zen. I hope this helps, happy training!

Hi, thank you for the update, if the attacking episodes were happening also outside of the feeding context, then it's more difficult to prevent as we don't have clear predictors of when an attack is about to take place. I am glad that he found a good home! Yes, teaching obedience cues is important when having a multi-house household as it helps us gain better control, but dogs also live in a world of associations therefore it's important to also make good things happen when they are around each other, which is why I am a big fan of parallel walks, scent swaps (each pet is given something like a towel with the other dog's scent and pairing those with treats) and look at that exercises where dogs are fed treats for looking at each other. https://www.braintraining4dogs.com/members/archive/dog-to-dog-reactivity-my-indoor-closed-door-open-door-method/